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Bendpak 2 post install lessons learned

jamesanderson

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Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
11
I just finished up installing a Bendpak 2 post asymmetrical lift (XP10 model) and I thought i would post a few things I learned from the exercise for the benefit of anyone else contemplating the same.

Overall I have to say I found it to be a challenging - but quite satisfying project. It’s quite fun to install something quite so big and physical oneself.

I reckon it took me about three full work days to do - but not all in one stretch so hard to estimate.

Tools I strongly recommend getting:

1). An engine lift. I got the 2 tonne item from Harbor Freight that did the trick really well. Unless you have a forklift or a team of four people I dont know how you’d do without the engine lift. It’s useful many times in the project.

2). An SDS Plus hammer drill. I tried drilling the holes with a cheaper hammer drill and it was essentially impossible. I bought a recon Makita unit on CPO tools and a Bosch drill bit and the holes took about a minute each.

3). A sturdy step ladder - ideally two. You spend a lot of time up and down to the gantry level - and you want to feel safe - the sturdiness of the step ladder makes all the difference.

Tips and tricks I figured out:

1). Keeping the equalizer cables in place when you raise the columns is really hard - and reinstalling them when they fall out looks very tricky. I ended up tying the cable to its runner with strong twine - which stopped it falling down into the runner when the “button” inevitably fell out of where it is supposed to sit. This saved a lot of time and frustration.

2). The wiring diagrams in the Bendpak manual are not intuitive at all. The sequence is (a). Install the micro switch and attach the black wire to it. I was doing single phase so only used two wires out of four. Write down which wires you attach to which connectors on the micro switch - you wont remember which you did by the time you get to wire everything up. (B). Once the whole lift is assembled put the black cable down the power side post as per instructions (c). Run the power to the unit. Bring the power supply down the power side post to the power unit. (D). Connect the power unit up to the power supply pigtails and connect in the cable to the micro switch.

The thing that confused me is that the power comes into the main switch - and then essentially loops through the microswitch and comes back down to the power unit. If the m/s is tripped it breaks the circuit. The wiring diagrams are correct - just not very intuitive (to me at least...)

3). The hydraulic “******” that connects into the bottom of the cylinder has to point straight out the back of each post - or else the runner comes down right on it - which does not look good for longevity. I found that these “naturally” installed at right angles to the post so i needed to move them.

4). The Bendpak instructions that came with my unit were materially better than the ones they had online - which I only figured out halfway through the job.

5). There’s a couple of good YouTube videos of people doing full installs. You wont follow exactly what they do - but it gave me confidence to see the process end to end - and put the directions in the manual in better context.

6). You will need a helper at a minimum for raising the columns and installing the gantry. The latter is a 2 person job for sure. Other than that solo worked fine for me.

So - hope this is helpful to someone out there - now I’m just excited as heck to start using my brand new toy...
 
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latenttweet

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Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Satellite Beach
So you didn't need a material lifter or fork lift type thing? just man power? good to know.

Maybe you can help with this question, im in the air right now on a Bendpak GP-7LCS which is the sub 9' lift for small garages, its around $3200, and also looking at the Triumph NT-9 9K which is way cheaper at like $1,800.

a friend old me he got the bendpak grandprix because its ansi rated, and the triumph is more of a chinese knock off. I normally wouldnt care, but i bought a few chinese items for example more recently a propane generator and some of the craftsmanship on the gas fittings is very questionable and scary. i usually end up getting the cheaper item tool, regret it, then return it and buy the name brand one. I'm not sure if that is true with the lift, but it is a $1k+ price difference as well.
 

James-W

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Joined
Feb 3, 2013
Messages
12,432
Location
Southeastern Wisconsin
So you didn't need a material lifter or fork lift type thing? just man power? good to know.

Maybe you can help with this question, im in the air right now on a Bendpak GP-7LCS which is the sub 9' lift for small garages, its around $3200, and also looking at the Triumph NT-9 9K which is way cheaper at like $1,800.

a friend old me he got the Bendpak grand prix because its ansi rated, and the triumph is more of a Chinese knock off. I normally wouldn't care, but I bought a few Chinese items for example more recently a propane generator and some of the craftsmanship on the gas fittings is very questionable and scary. I usually end up getting the cheaper item tool, regret it, then return it and buy the name brand one. I'm not sure if that is true with the lift, but it is a $1k+ price difference as well.
Welcome to the forum.

If I were you, I would go with the more expensive one. My thinking, right or wrong, is if you don't feel confident working under a vehicle on the lift, you will be sorry you went with the cheaper one. A lift isn't a tool that you put in your car and return to the store if you don't like it. Once you have it and it is installed in your garage/shop, you can pretty well assume it is yours to keep. Possibly you could take it apart and sell it to someone else, then buy the one you really wanted in the first place. But that seems like a lot of work and screwing around just to get the lift you really want.

That's my opinion for what it is worth.
 

James-W

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Joined
Feb 3, 2013
Messages
12,432
Location
Southeastern Wisconsin
I just finished up installing a Bendpak 2 post asymmetrical lift (XP10 model) and I thought i would post a few things I learned from the exercise for the benefit of anyone else contemplating the same.
Congratulations on the lift. I wish I had one, but unfortunately I don't have the room I would need to put one in my garage. I thought about putting up another building to house a lift, but the city won't allow me to do that. I can only cover so much percentage of my property with buildings. I suppose I could sell our house and move someplace where I am able to build a larger workshop, but I am 70 years old and I doubt it would benefit me enough to make it a paying proposition. I am sure I would have a lot of new "friends" if I had a shop complete with a lift, but as for myself, I don't do enough work on our cars to warrant the expense. For what it would cost to build a shop with a lift, I could buy a new car instead of repairing the old one.
 

SJW

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Joined
Apr 4, 2018
Messages
67
Location
Thousand Oaks, CA
Could you expand on how the instructions that came with the unit were better than the online instructions? Are they not the same?
 

Diesel Dan

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Joined
Jul 21, 2013
Messages
2,457
Location
TN
I stood the columns up with out cables and strung them after, XPR 10S-168.
Gantry? You mean the top cross bar? It can be done alone but not advisable....like so many other things I do.:lol_hitti

I've said it many times now.
Love the 3 stage arms but the lift as a whole is 2nd rate to the Worths I had before, jmo. If I do another build and Worth still does not offer 3 stage arms I'm seriously considering a Worth lift then buy arms from someone else and have a weld shop modify to fit.
 

latenttweet

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Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Satellite Beach
Welcome to the forum.

If I were you, I would go with the more expensive one. My thinking, right or wrong, is if you don't feel confident working under a vehicle on the lift, you will be sorry you went with the cheaper one. A lift isn't a tool that you put in your car and return to the store if you don't like it. Once you have it and it is installed in your garage/shop, you can pretty well assume it is yours to keep. Possibly you could take it apart and sell it to someone else, then buy the one you really wanted in the first place. But that seems like a lot of work and screwing around just to get the lift you really want.

That's my opinion for what it is worth.

Well that is actually the most helpful suggestion I've heard so far, very valid point. its not like i can return it easily, so the extra $1k, verses the probability of me having to pull it down to do warranty exchange is a good insurance policy. When I first started looking at lifts, i thought, well its just lag bolted to the floor, i can move it to the side when working on larger non car projects, after looking at install instructions and this forum, it seems like its going to be permenant. in fact i may even pay someone to install it so i dont have to rent the material handler/pallet jack thingy or tractor, or find some body builders to help.
 
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jamesanderson

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
11
I would go for the best you can afford in car lifts. Raising 2 tonnes of steel above ones head is a scary thought in the first place - doing it on something one had “gone cheap on” just seems like a bad idea...
 
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jamesanderson

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
11
Could you expand on how the instructions that came with the unit were better than the online instructions? Are they not the same?

I assumed they were the same - but the ones in the box had better diagrams, were better written, had been re-ordered to make more sense...

I mentioned it because I had assumed the online ones would have been the most up to date available.
 
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jamesanderson

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Jan 2, 2016
Messages
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Congratulations on the lift. I wish I had one, but unfortunately I don't have the room I would need to put one in my garage. I thought about putting up another building to house a lift, but the city won't allow me to do that. I can only cover so much percentage of my property with buildings. I suppose I could sell our house and move someplace where I am able to build a larger workshop, but I am 70 years old and I doubt it would benefit me enough to make it a paying proposition. I am sure I would have a lot of new "friends" if I had a shop complete with a lift, but as for myself, I don't do enough work on our cars to warrant the expense. For what it would cost to build a shop with a lift, I could buy a new car instead of repairing the old one.

Certainly not saying that buying a lift is a fully economically rational decision - its been on my bucket list for a while - and I had the chance to get one in a new garage I just built.

Word to the wise - your spouse may well think that you’ve lost your mind buying an expensive hunk of steel and hydraulic stuff...
 
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jamesanderson

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
11
So you didn't need a material lifter or fork lift type thing? just man power? good to know.

Maybe you can help with this question, im in the air right now on a Bendpak GP-7LCS which is the sub 9' lift for small garages, its around $3200, and also looking at the Triumph NT-9 9K which is way cheaper at like $1,800.

a friend old me he got the bendpak grandprix because its ansi rated, and the triumph is more of a chinese knock off. I normally wouldnt care, but i bought a few chinese items for example more recently a propane generator and some of the craftsmanship on the gas fittings is very questionable and scary. i usually end up getting the cheaper item tool, regret it, then return it and buy the name brand one. I'm not sure if that is true with the lift, but it is a $1k+ price difference as well.

To be completely accurate you do need a fork lift to get the unit off the truck - my contractor from the garage project was still onsite when it came and he offloaded it into the garage for me. However, after that was done I used the engine lift for all lifting - and it was very effective.

I have kind of a love-hate thing going with Harbor Freight - but this unit is firmly in the love column...
 

latenttweet

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Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
12
Location
Satellite Beach
To be completely accurate you do need a fork lift to get the unit off the truck - my contractor from the garage project was still onsite when it came and he offloaded it into the garage for me. However, after that was done I used the engine lift for all lifting - and it was very effective.

I have kind of a love-hate thing going with Harbor Freight - but this unit is firmly in the love column...

so you used the cherry picker to just move the box from point a to b, not to actually erect the columns? (I don't see how that would work).

and dang, i need to befriend a fork lift driver.
 

aarcuda

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Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
128
Location
arkansas
I put mine up with 4 friends helping to put the 800lb columns upright. Once they were up I could scooch them across the floor into position. I even put the top cross bar up myself- one side up first and install one bolt loosely to allow it to rotate and viola! its up!
 

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Diesel Dan

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Jul 21, 2013
Messages
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Location
TN
Word to the wise - your spouse may well think that you’ve lost your mind buying an expensive hunk of steel and hydraulic stuff...
Not my wife. She had no issue with any of the 3 lifts I've bought. I use them quite a bit however.

To be completely accurate you do need a fork lift to get the unit off the truck -

While it helps (a LOT) it is not always necessary. My son and friend knocked down and loaded my floor plate worth into the bed of his truck and hauled 700+ miles and we unloaded with a cherry picker. The first time I stood the columns up alone, by hand, no lift. The last one, a lighter weight Bendpak my son & I stood it up....apparently I'm getting too old now. :lol_hitti
 
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jamesanderson

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Jan 2, 2016
Messages
11
so you used the cherry picker to just move the box from point a to b, not to actually erect the columns? (I don't see how that would work).

and dang, i need to befriend a fork lift driver.

Exactly - the forklift was used just to offload the unit from the truck (I recall the unit weighs 1600lbs all in) and then i broke it down into the major components. I moved the columns using the engine crane - and then lifted them up to vertical with the crane, a well placed strap and a helper.
 

mmb617

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Joined
Dec 5, 2010
Messages
4,424
Location
PA
I was lucky that my workplace had forklifts so I had my lift delivered there and warehouse guys then loaded it onto my trailer. When I got home I unloaded it piece by piece using my cherry picker.

I'm almost always working alone so I needed to set the lift up by myself. I thought about how to stand up the columns then temporarily attached my winch high on the wall and used it to stand up the first column then remounted it on the opposite wall to stand up the other one. Worked like a charm.


48721536806_1cc4733540_c.jpg



I was also able to set the top crossbar by myself and I'm a little old man. I've found that there is little you can't do by yourself if you take some time and think the problem through first.
 

Fasthotrod

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Joined
Dec 14, 2015
Messages
218
Location
Oklahoma
To be completely accurate you do need a fork lift to get the unit off the truck

Not in my case... but it sure would have been handy! :beer:

I bought an Atlas OH-10X lift from Greg Smith down in Texas.

https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-OH-10X-EXTRA-WIDE-EXTRA-TALL

I was able to back the trailer into the shop with the lift on it, and then I used a floor jack to raise up the lift and slid some moving dollies under it. Then I rolled the lift to the rear of the trailer and used my cherry picker to lift the one end up off the trailer, then slowly rolled the lift backwards until I had the clearance to lower it to the ground.

I set the lift on the moving dollie, then moved the cherry picker back to the other end of the lift that was still on the trailer. I raised it up, the carefully drove the truck/trailer out from under the lift. Then I set the lift back down on the other dollie.

From there, I dismantled the lift in pieces and used the cherry picker for the heavy lifting to get everything set out for installation.

I attempted to erect the columns myself using brute strength... but apparently my strength just isn't what it used to be because I couldn't get it. I called a friend and he swung by with his son and we had them up into place in no time. I bolted the first one into place, got the 2nd one lined up, then took the cross brace for the top and hooked it over the top of the column that was bolted down. Then I used a ladder on the opposite side to walk the cross bar up and into place across the columns.

Now I'm just finishing up the electrical so I can get it running... can't wait to have it operational.

Mark
 

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chilow

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Sep 12, 2019
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Location
CA
This is helpful and reassuring. I also contemplated between having a few friends help with the install versus paying somebody to do it.
 

latenttweet

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Sep 10, 2019
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Location
Satellite Beach
This is helpful and reassuring. I also contemplated between having a few friends help with the install versus paying somebody to do it.

Same here. I wasn't looking forward to shimming and making sure it is square, but it sounds like its easier than i imagined. I will be attempting to do mine myself.
 
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