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Bendpak 4 post Transportation, Install and Use

Junkman

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Dec 18, 2006
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Northeastern CT
.........I have the rolling jack as well- modified by BendPak to sit lower. I just put it on a furniture dolley, raised lift up & rolled it underneath. Dropped lift, rotated the jack 90 degrees, raised lift back up & voila- done.

OK, well I worked with the Bendpak team on the bridge jack, got a different set of runners that will drop the unit down lower, to make it better for the corvettes and other low cars.The change was real easy, I just dropped the lift with jackstands under the bridge jack and replace the two end pieces Bendpak sent me. Maybe a 15 minute job tops!

Now the bridge jack sits nice and low, not going to hit it even with these low cars.

Can you please give me more information on the modification to the rolling jack. I have one that was made a few years ago, and it sits high enough on the lift that it has caused me problems more than once. I love my lift, and the jack, but I have to be very careful getting my cars onto it, since the cars are so big and the front ends tend to be lower. One time, I was driving the car onto the lift, and it came too close to the jack, the jack pad caught the inside of the tire, and tore a hole in it instantly. When the tire went flat, the car was resting on the jack, and I couldn't do anything, except to use my floor jack on the runway to lift the car off the jack, and then reposition everything. It was operator fault, and I learned to remove the jack pads every time now. If I could get the jack lower, that would be great. Oh, if you are ponding what type of large cars I have.. They are antique ambulances. One is 20'6" long, and about 7800 pounds!
 
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Cryptic1911

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May 24, 2008
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Willimantic, CT
Just contact JSK on here and ask him about it.. he's a VP over there and will get stuff taken care of for you. We got some modified arms from them (weldments they call them) to lower the jack about an inch or so, as as well as a modified top bar? where the jack pad arms slide into. It's got flanges on the top and these rubber pads that will slide on it, so you can now have jack pads all the from the center, out to the ends of the lift arms
 

Cryptic1911

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May 24, 2008
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Willimantic, CT
oh, and basically what they do on the bottom arms is move the position of the rolling wheels so the whole thing sits down closer to the bottom edge of the lift ramps.. that way it isn't sticking up over the top as much
 

FltEngCPO

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Joined
Mar 25, 2011
Messages
156
Location
Moore, Oklahoma
This is a great thread! I am still building the shop but am planning on a bendpak lift so I will be revisiting this one down the road. Thanks for all the good info!
 

Steves32

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Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
845
Can you please give me more information on the modification to the rolling jack. I have one that was made a few years ago, and it sits high enough on the lift that it has caused me problems more than once. I love my lift, and the jack, but I have to be very careful getting my cars onto it, since the cars are so big and the front ends tend to be lower. One time, I was driving the car onto the lift, and it came too close to the jack, the jack pad caught the inside of the tire, and tore a hole in it instantly. When the tire went flat, the car was resting on the jack, and I couldn't do anything, except to use my floor jack on the runway to lift the car off the jack, and then reposition everything. It was operator fault, and I learned to remove the jack pads every time now. If I could get the jack lower, that would be great. Oh, if you are ponding what type of large cars I have.. They are antique ambulances. One is 20'6" long, and about 7800 pounds!
Starts around page 2

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106505
 
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Dolfan

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May 21, 2010
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465
Location
Greater Atlanta
Can you please give me more information on the modification to the rolling jack. I have one that was made a few years ago, and it sits high enough on the lift that it has caused me problems more than once. I love my lift, and the jack, but I have to be very careful getting my cars onto it, since the cars are so big and the front ends tend to be lower. One time, I was driving the car onto the lift, and it came too close to the jack, the jack pad caught the inside of the tire, and tore a hole in it instantly. When the tire went flat, the car was resting on the jack, and I couldn't do anything, except to use my floor jack on the runway to lift the car off the jack, and then reposition everything. It was operator fault, and I learned to remove the jack pads every time now. If I could get the jack lower, that would be great. Oh, if you are ponding what type of large cars I have.. They are antique ambulances. One is 20'6" long, and about 7800 pounds!

Hey Junkman, I can't tell you any part numbers or anything like that off hand, but call the folks at BendPak or Garage Equipment Supply and they can hook you up. The conversion takes no more the 5-10 mintes, it took me longer to get the cars off the lift and out of the way that to do the job. I'd say the conversion drops the jack about 1-1.5" but I didn't measure. I'm going to install the air line kit over the holiday when I get a minute.
 
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Dolfan

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May 21, 2010
Messages
465
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Greater Atlanta
This is a great thread! I am still building the shop but am planning on a bendpak lift so I will be revisiting this one down the road. Thanks for all the good info!

I would pay close attention to the location of your electrical when laying out your garage so that you have the power close to the front left of back right post for a short run to the lift.

And don't forget about getting your air source to that location as well.
 
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Dolfan

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May 21, 2010
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Greater Atlanta
One update I've done that is lift related is a storage solution for the aluminum ramps. These ramps are great as they are so light but taking them off I need a place to store them where I'm not worried about them getting knocked over and potentially hitting a car.

So I built this hanger out of some scrap wood, plywood , and 1/2" dowel pegs. I drilled 1/2" holes in the back of the ramps so they would fit the hanger. I made the hanger 52" long so I could catch the studs at 48" for a secure mount.

Ramp-hanger1.jpg


Both loaded up!
Ramp-hanger2.jpg


I thought about a way to mount a hanger to the top of the posts but there the ramps would be in the way, this works out nice, just walk over and lift them off the hanger and onto the lift when needed.

More to Come....
 

danieldolin

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Oct 19, 2011
Messages
189
Location
Cleveland OH
Dolfan - did you (or anyone else with an HD-9 or HD-9ST) ever test to see if these alluminum ramps will store between the runways? Just curious if they will just sit in there at the end of the unit under the rear of the car?

If not, your solution looks great... Thanks!
 
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Dolfan

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May 21, 2010
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Greater Atlanta
Danieldolin, I had a minute so I did a test. I was reluctant with Z06 under the lift so I tested at the very front where I could get to it. See for your self!

Ramp-inbetween.jpg



It does fit across the bridge jack lip and I don't think it could fall through, but once a car is on the lift I think it will be a pain to try to fit the ramps in around the car, then you would have to get them out for unloading before the car is moved. While it will work I don't see it as a big advantage.
 

snowphun

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Jan 5, 2011
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119
Location
Central CT
Dolfan - did you (or anyone else with an HD-9 or HD-9ST) ever test to see if these alluminum ramps will store between the runways? Just curious if they will just sit in there at the end of the unit under the rear of the car?

This is how I've been storing my since I received them. I put them in upside down, they are secure and are not going to fall. And they act as additional drip trays. :) My cars are short enough that I have plenty of room to slide them in behind (and just under) the rear. So much lighter and easier to handle than the steel ramps.
 

danieldolin

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Oct 19, 2011
Messages
189
Location
Cleveland OH
Thanks for the feedback guys, depending on how my car sits on the lift, this may or may not be a solution to storing the alluminum ramps on the back of the lift. I think it would however, be a good place to put them for longer term winter storage when the lift will not be being used but to store a car on top as it gets the ramps out of the way.

Dolfan - do you have them both in there 1 on top of the other? Is that why the one visible looks to be sitting a little crooked?

Thanks again!:beer:
 
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Dolfan

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May 21, 2010
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Greater Atlanta
Dolfan - do you have them both in there 1 on top of the other? Is that why the one visible looks to be sitting a little crooked?
Thanks again!:beer:

No I was just in a hurry and tossed it in to see if it would fit, I think placing them in upside-down as was stated would be the best fit. With the bridge jack on one end this really won't be an option for me.
 

Boise-69

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Jan 10, 2007
Messages
18
Location
illinois
Has anyone made a bracket so that they stick straight out? Something maybe out of hard rubber so that when you drove on, it would flex down. I didn't want to remove and replace every time I want drive on or work around, Ive own this for a few days and have crack my temple once already, so I took them off for now
 
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Dolfan

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May 21, 2010
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Greater Atlanta
Leaving the ramps on in most conditions I think is just asking for it. I know I'd kill myself as I'm working in the bay next to the 4 post most the time and would or sure walk into the ramp sticking out.

They hand down at about a 30* angle with nothing done to them but that make it a tight fit to drive under.

For me I'm happy to remove these and put in place when needed.
 

northern33

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Jan 6, 2012
Messages
121
Great information for us that are looking at doing the same. You mentioned that you installed the RJ-45 rolling bridge and that it has steel rollers. When I look online it shows A plastic piece. Is that just a guide?
 

Cryptic1911

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May 24, 2008
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Location
Willimantic, CT
They used to not have wheels, just a delrin? slide block on each side. They have since changed them to the wheels, but it all depends how old your lift is. The older ones I think had shorter U channels so that the slide blocks would fit, and the newer ones have deeper ones for the wheels
 
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Dolfan

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May 21, 2010
Messages
465
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Greater Atlanta
They used to not have wheels, just a delrin? slide block on each side. They have since changed them to the wheels, but it all depends how old your lift is. The older ones I think had shorter U channels so that the slide blocks would fit, and the newer ones have deeper ones for the wheels

I can't speak for the older models but yes the current RJ-45 bridge jack does have wheels. Also, consider the vehicles you will be storing and whether or not you need the low profile setup.
 

Relax

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Nov 22, 2011
Messages
436
Location
GTA, Ontario
I would pay close attention to the location of your electrical when laying out your garage so that you have the power close to the front left of back right post for a short run to the lift.

And don't forget about getting your air source to that location as well.

Hey Dolfan, great post! I'm hoping to purchase and DIY install a 4-post lift within the next few months, and I've pretty much decided on the HD-9. One thing I can't get out of the installation manual is how the electrical is hooked up. I plan on moving the lift from one side of the garage to the other occasionally. Is the electrical hard-wired into the wall, or is it a plug that you can use an extension cable with? Got any pics? Thanks!
 

jperaino

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Oct 11, 2011
Messages
12
I just had my HD9 installed. It does get hard wired however you can have a flexible cord and plug installed to plug it in at multiple locations.
As far as the ramps are concerned, I originally ordered the extended ramps for my C6. They bwere so heavy tp get on and off that I ended up purchasing the mounting brackets from BendPak for their aluminum ramps and getting the ramps from RaceRamp. They make 2 sizes of hook nose ramps that fit the BendPak brackets perfectly. I ordered the 20" wide by 5" high model. They only weigh 14 lbs each as compared to the BandPak extended ramps at 55 lbs each.
 

johnnymustang

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Joined
May 3, 2010
Messages
5
Hey Dolfan, great post! I'm hoping to purchase and DIY install a 4-post lift within the next few months, and I've pretty much decided on the HD-9. One thing I can't get out of the installation manual is how the electrical is hooked up. I plan on moving the lift from one side of the garage to the other occasionally. Is the electrical hard-wired into the wall, or is it a plug that you can use an extension cable with? Got any pics? Thanks!

When you order specify a 120 volt motor, I ordered mine with that configuration and I use a heavy gauge extension cord when I move the lift around. It takes a few seconds longer to raise the lift but for me it is no big deal.
 
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tdboss

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Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1
I have a situation where the lift fits in an extension of the garage with a tight fit. The 9ST is 103.5" wide and I plan on using the adapter to mount the pump on the column side that looks back.

Has anybody used that adaptor?

Any issues?
 
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Dolfan

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May 21, 2010
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465
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Greater Atlanta
Just for reference I'm using the lightweight ramps from BendPak that you can upgrade to. There are very light which is nice for storage and my lowered C5 Z06 goes on and off fine.
 
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Dolfan

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May 21, 2010
Messages
465
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Greater Atlanta
I don't have picture but I just went and found the heaviest extension between 8-12' I could find. I think the one I got is a 15A and it seem to work just fine.

I plan to build a little cover or "Bridge" where all the electrical and air hoses go across the floor in front of the lift. I've been too close to ending up on my backside moving in front of the lift as I go from bay to bay working!
 

MrVette

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Oct 18, 2012
Messages
4
Other than the weight did you have any issue getting a C6 up using the original length ramps? I'm fixing to order a lift and was planning to get Bendpaks aluminum ramps. Just wondering if they are long enough not to cause any ground clearance issues with a C6. I gather the aluminum ramps are the same length as the steel ones.
 

MrVette

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Oct 18, 2012
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I have early Corvettes (50's and 60's) as well as a C6. I've been looking at the HD-9st and HD-9stx since they have an overall width of 100" to save space. They have a 90" pass through width. My C6 is 72" wide and it would seem that a 90" pass through should be sufficient. I understand you were intially interested in a narrower lift but went with a wide one.
Now that you have experience using it do you feel the 17" of extra width is needed or sufficiently beneficial to give up the extra space?
Is the 201" length sufficient to comfortably fit your cars, allowing them to be rolled forward and back a bit without falling off the end?
 

danieldolin

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Oct 19, 2011
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189
Location
Cleveland OH
Other than the weight did you have any issue getting a C6 up using the original length ramps? I'm fixing to order a lift and was planning to get Bendpaks aluminum ramps. Just wondering if they are long enough not to cause any ground clearance issues with a C6. I gather the aluminum ramps are the same length as the steel ones.

The alluminum ramps and the steel ramps are both 36" long, however they attach to the lift quite differently. This makes the alluminum ramps more "low profile" and longer as part of the 36" length does not overlap the lift runway like the steel ramps do.
 
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