OP
polexican23
Banned
looking good Nemo. I finally finished my 1"x1" angle iron box frames.
BendPak MDS-6KF
- Thread starter polexican23
- Start date
OP
polexican23
Banned
how far are you planning on setting your lift from the nearest side wall and in regards to alignment with overhead door?
I thought about doing mine almost in line with the frame of the overhead door. maybe 6 inches inside of it at most.
I thought about doing mine almost in line with the frame of the overhead door. maybe 6 inches inside of it at most.
After measuring it all out, I put it dead center in the open space. Garage is 18' wide, there's 2' of shelving against the left wall, so it's centered in the remaining 16' of width. Depth wise, centered as well, 19.5' deep in the main area so 9.75' front and rear. I have an additional 6.5' at the back of the garage that has my work benches and box and such, so I end up with a nice space there to work under hood and room enough to pull my engine hoist clear.
My overhead door is an 8' to begin with and the tracks slope upward towards the ceiling and tuck in just above the height of a support beam that sticks down. It's basically a non-issue in the way of height. I have 4.5' clearance above my car and the lift is 42" on the top lock, minus 4 3/8" for sub floor height plus 1.5" for blocks and I will have no problem going right up to the top locks.
And yeah, stupidly dusty...but I wore a 3m N100 half face mask, goggles, and muffs, wasn't hard on me from the dust standpoint. Just sore muscles from cutting/jack hammering. Then just blew the entire thing out with compressed air when I was done.
My overhead door is an 8' to begin with and the tracks slope upward towards the ceiling and tuck in just above the height of a support beam that sticks down. It's basically a non-issue in the way of height. I have 4.5' clearance above my car and the lift is 42" on the top lock, minus 4 3/8" for sub floor height plus 1.5" for blocks and I will have no problem going right up to the top locks.
And yeah, stupidly dusty...but I wore a 3m N100 half face mask, goggles, and muffs, wasn't hard on me from the dust standpoint. Just sore muscles from cutting/jack hammering. Then just blew the entire thing out with compressed air when I was done.
Couple little odds and ends left to do, but nearly ready to pour:
Need to get an extra chunk of pvc for between the two lifts, the one 10' piece I had wasn't long enough. Then I need to 100% center it up and screw down the form so it doesn't shift.
Anyone see any issues?
Need to get an extra chunk of pvc for between the two lifts, the one 10' piece I had wasn't long enough. Then I need to 100% center it up and screw down the form so it doesn't shift.
Anyone see any issues?
Air compressor...the best broom I ever bought.
Looks great!
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
That looks like an awful tight elbow to shove hydraulic lines through. Have you tried stuffing your line(s) through it in advance? Just to be sure.
I tried with just the elbow out on the bench, haven't tried the entire length...will give it a try today. Thanks for the suggestion, way easier to fix it now than when it's in the concrete
OP
polexican23
Banned
couple of questions:
do you plan on lifting the forms straight up and out once the pour is done?
Why the holes in the forms far corner about the same size as the PVC?
But now after looking at yours, I think I may have F'd up my forms by using 2x6s instead of 2x4s.
do you plan on lifting the forms straight up and out once the pour is done?
Why the holes in the forms far corner about the same size as the PVC?
But now after looking at yours, I think I may have F'd up my forms by using 2x6s instead of 2x4s.
Once the pour is done and it's cured, up and out yup...if I have to cut them out tediously in pieces, so be it.
The single 10' piece of PVC I had didn't end up being enough to do between the two pits, I picked up another chunk yesterday and there is now a pipe going between the forms via those holes.
I used 2x6 for my forms as well, however I cut them down on the table saw to 4 3/8" as specified in the specs (gives 1/8" extra clearance from actual). This way the troweling is flat to the top of the 2x and hence why those cross braces are slightly smaller, so that it's easier to trowel all the way around the forms right up to the edge. I hope it works out
I'm definitely no expert on this, first time for me, so I'm just kinda going with what makes sense.
OP
polexican23
Banned
hopefully that hard 90 wont be a pain to shove the hoses through.
Should be fine, I pushed four lines through the elbow without much trouble. It's also only a couple inches below the surface so I will be able to grab the ends of the hoses with a pair of long pliers if I'm pushing the hoses in from the lift side.
I think I'm going to get custom hoses made up though, I need extensions anyway given the length. I was thinking I'm going to do a single long hose to each lift from the flow diverter and split at the cylinders. The bendpak hoses you split in the console and run four lines down to each cylinder individually which just seems silly.
OP
polexican23
Banned
so jealous. you are so close to rocking and rolling.
OP
polexican23
Banned
Well i wont be jealous no more. Got a call from Big Boy Toys. My lift is in!!!!!!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
I'm honestly growing more and more disappointed with this lift.
- The bottom frames are bowed a bit left/right. Probably 3/16" or so.
- The air safety release button leaks unless you smack the button quickly to stop it.
- The end cap rods don't fit worth a sh*t, going to be hard to get them in, they obviously welded the two sides separately.
- A lot of the welding of the non-structural components are crappy little buggers of welds. I am guessing they have someone different do the structure vs the rest of it.
- Got hydraulics hooked up today, the platforms go out of sync by ~1-2 inches from rest to full rise. On the way back down when they get close to the ground they go really fast and slam down, often out of sync as well.
- The hydraulic lines into the cylinders get bent pretty significantly when at full rise against the ground. They keep loosening themselves because of it and leaking.
- The air fittings on the release cylinders are plastic and mostly stripped, the fittings had fallen out by the time they got to me.
Honestly, if this is normal for BendPak I'm surprised they're still in business. I would NEVER recommend this piece of junk to anyone ever now that I've seen it.
- The bottom frames are bowed a bit left/right. Probably 3/16" or so.
- The air safety release button leaks unless you smack the button quickly to stop it.
- The end cap rods don't fit worth a sh*t, going to be hard to get them in, they obviously welded the two sides separately.
- A lot of the welding of the non-structural components are crappy little buggers of welds. I am guessing they have someone different do the structure vs the rest of it.
- Got hydraulics hooked up today, the platforms go out of sync by ~1-2 inches from rest to full rise. On the way back down when they get close to the ground they go really fast and slam down, often out of sync as well.
- The hydraulic lines into the cylinders get bent pretty significantly when at full rise against the ground. They keep loosening themselves because of it and leaking.
- The air fittings on the release cylinders are plastic and mostly stripped, the fittings had fallen out by the time they got to me.
Honestly, if this is normal for BendPak I'm surprised they're still in business. I would NEVER recommend this piece of junk to anyone ever now that I've seen it.
Damn disappointing!
Pretty sure that synchronization will correct after the bleeding process. My two poster did that for a dozen lifts or so.
Probably from the hoses loosening and letting air in.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Pretty sure that synchronization will correct after the bleeding process. My two poster did that for a dozen lifts or so.
Probably from the hoses loosening and letting air in.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Hope so, got frustrated and gave up...posted right after I came in when I was fed up. Going to take another stab at it later this week. Also sent an email to BendPak with the issues I've found, we'll see what they say.
It's just been so long in the works what with waiting for it to ship then all this work to install it and for things to go so poorly. If only the builder hadn't screwed up the slab by cutting joints in it, could have gone with my original plan for a 2 post, no concrete work and been done with it months ago.
Even with my 2 post it took 4 monthswith delivery and concrete curing ....
I tried to install mine lift and snapped two of the 3/4" bolts because the anchors were shorter than the bolts and misalign 2 of the plate holes in the concrete.. then I cracked it. Frustrating day ....
After you get it all set up and working you will love it. You're so close to being done. Take a few days away and think it all through.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
I tried to install mine lift and snapped two of the 3/4" bolts because the anchors were shorter than the bolts and misalign 2 of the plate holes in the concrete.. then I cracked it. Frustrating day ....
After you get it all set up and working you will love it. You're so close to being done. Take a few days away and think it all through.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Thanks...hopefully I can get it all sorted out and have it working right. Just really sad I have to take more time/money to fix Bendpak's half *** work.
OP
polexican23
Banned
well now I have a few things to look for when mine arrives.
Let me know what yours is like, if you don't find problems where mine has them I'd be incline to think I got B stock or something.
Wow, great read. And I thought I was disappointed with my MaxJax.
Well, I still am.
I was looking to replace it with this unit.
Might have to go back into looking at the Kwik Bay. Or another, safer 2-post. Greg Smith is local to me so there's that advantage of warehouse pickup.
Ugh. Why is this so difficult?
Well, I still am.
I was looking to replace it with this unit.
Might have to go back into looking at the Kwik Bay. Or another, safer 2-post. Greg Smith is local to me so there's that advantage of warehouse pickup.
Ugh. Why is this so difficult?
FYI - I had absolutely no problem getting the lines through, I pushed from the pit side and when they hit the 90 elbow, I stopped, went to the bend side and just pulled the line up with a pair of long needle nose pliers. They came around the bend smoothly, no problems at all.
Wow, great read. And I thought I was disappointed with my MaxJax.
Well, I still am.
I was looking to replace it with this unit.
Might have to go back into looking at the Kwik Bay. Or another, safer 2-post. Greg Smith is local to me so there's that advantage of warehouse pickup.
Ugh. Why is this so difficult?
The lift could be ok, who knows...this is the first time I've ever installed a lift or did this big of a project with concrete. If not for my space constraints and the issues with the control cuts the builder made, I would probably have opted for a two post (and say screw it and just buy a Mohawk or Rotary) if I was doing it over again.
OP
polexican23
Banned
if my wife didn't **** at diving/parking, I would have gone for a 2 post. But at the same time, I like having a wide open space.
This is a dilemma I face while trying to replace my MaxJax. Do I go scissor? Do I get another, better 2 post? They have their pros and cons. Like you I am trying to park in the repair bay where this would go.
The undercar access for a 2 post is unmatched. But so is the PITA factor getting in and out of the car. If you go scissor, then any gas tank/exhaust/etc jobs are out of the question... But waxing sides of cars is a breeze...
Bah. I think the answer is you need both. Great.
The undercar access for a 2 post is unmatched. But so is the PITA factor getting in and out of the car. If you go scissor, then any gas tank/exhaust/etc jobs are out of the question... But waxing sides of cars is a breeze...
Bah. I think the answer is you need both. Great.
I'm pretty sure I could do most exhaust jobs on this lift, with my spacing there's 34" (nearly 3 feet) of unrestricted space...plus another 6 inches or so on each side before the rubber contact blocks that you can squeeze between the platform deck and car chassis if using big enough contact blocks.
By scissor I was referring to the usual designs with blocked centers. The 6KF doesn't have this problem (hence the allure) but it has the other problems you mention so I am currently not considering it pending future redemption.
So yea, still undecided in my case.
In your case, you're pretty much married to the 6KF at this point with how far you've gone. I'm sure you can sort out the issues with Bend-Pak and just home brew the rest if possible. That's what I'd do in your shoes. The hard part is done. Plus the flush mount is ****.
Yeah, the only one I won't be able to deal with myself is if I can't get the platforms to level right with more bleeding (ie running the lift up and down a bunch lol). I think I can source new pneumatic cylinders for the safetly releases relatively cheaply, can shim the wobbles out, just ordered loctite 545 for the fittings, bang the rods home, and will try rebuilding the release button if I can't get it to stop leaking...all I can do myself, just a PITA.
Agreed that it's all complete horse dung that you have to deal with that.
My MaxJax never lifted level since day one. I guess it's just comes with the territory when you don't run a proper synched system with cables or otherwise.
Flow dividers alone do NOT a proper lift make. These lift makers swear they do.
My MaxJax never lifted level since day one. I guess it's just comes with the territory when you don't run a proper synched system with cables or otherwise.
Flow dividers alone do NOT a proper lift make. These lift makers swear they do.
Get a 2 post asymmetric
Fwiw I have a 2 post symmetrical and have no problem getting out of the car. I weigh about 180 at 6 feet. No problem.
I have a C7000 Triumph. It removable like the max Jax but bigger.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Hadn't seen the C7000. Seems I'm too busy under cars and not over computers, heh.
The C7000 looks basically like a safe version of the MaxJax. It has the critical locking system the MaxJax lacks. I almost lost a car when a hose burst on one side of my MaxJax and one column went all the way down uncontrollably.
It can't be trusted anymore, hence why I'm here apparently thread jacking a 6KF thread. I'll stop that now.
I'll go read some more on GJ and keep on topic in here. Thanks for the heads up!
The C7000 looks basically like a safe version of the MaxJax. It has the critical locking system the MaxJax lacks. I almost lost a car when a hose burst on one side of my MaxJax and one column went all the way down uncontrollably.
It can't be trusted anymore, hence why I'm here apparently thread jacking a 6KF thread. I'll stop that now.
I'll go read some more on GJ and keep on topic in here. Thanks for the heads up!
Here is a demonstration my boy and I did.
I'll stop pushing it now. Happy hunting. Hijacking over [emoji6]
https://youtu.be/akKomjipk6U[\URL] Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
OP
polexican23
Banned
Concrete got poured yesterday morning, pulled the forms tonight. Turned out fairly decent, just need to do a bit of grinding to tidy up under where the forms were.
NEMO any concern with the concrete cracking above the 2" pvc line?
My contractor was over this early am and had questioned me about it.
OP
polexican23
Banned
Nemo said Bendpak is sending him new hoses and air lock cylinders. I just had my concrete poured on Tuesday. So may be just a few more days before I have anything installed. (by days, I mean weeks or months. The way my build is going)
OP
polexican23
Banned
Mine is scheduled for delivery for Next friday. I kicked it out as far as I could. Still waiting on my garage build. But the floor is poured, framing should start this weekend, so maybe I can sneak it in there.
Got the new air lock cylinders and button...they actually have threads in the fittings, so that's a start.
The new hydraulic hoses I'm still waiting for. The new ones from what I understand are going to go male pipe thread directly into the hydraulic cylinders. The old ones I have now have a male pipe thread to male JIC adapter, which then gets a female JIC connection from the hoses. The length of the solid fittings/adapters causes the hoses to bend hard against the floor when at full rise, so the shorter fittings should allow the flexible part of the hose to do it's job.
So far I have no issues with cracking anywhere. The surface between the pits did get a little scuffed rolling the engine hoist over it roughly a week after the pour though. I might surface grind the entire part down smooth as I'm roughly 1/8" high in the middle anyway.