Best bits for drilling metal?

[Sanderguy777]

I am in the market for some good all around drill bit kit, as my old good set has been abused and I just killed two bits trying to drill through an old SS knife tang. It was my mom's when she married my dad, and the handle has been rotted for years, and the knife itself dull, really dull, for 20 years. I finally got her approval to fix the handle and sharpen it, but now I have dulled 2 cobalt bits, and dulled one HSS bit, and broken another.

I used to use the good cobalt bits on wood until I got dedicated wood bits, but now I just need a set of really good bits that I can supplement as they break, at this point, there are more empty spaces in the current set than there are bits, and the bits still there are probably dull.

I don't know how to sharpen bits, and I doubt cobalt it's are the type to learn on, so I just want to get a new set.

I mostly mess with unhardened steel, but occasionally find some hardened steel or aluminum I need to make holes in. I don't want want spend a fortune, and I'd like to be able to get the kit at home depot, or Lowes, but I understand that they probably don't have what I need.

I use a regular hand drill for metal work, so I assume my problem is that I was going too fast, and using dull bits, but any tips on how to make bits last longer would be helpful!

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Drill Hog are amazing good USA made bits. Them and Snap-on are the only ones I’ve ever used that I haven’t broken one of yet. And they have drilled through everything pretty much. Those were what was recommended to me when I started fixing cars and I’ve been using them ever since. Drilled plenty of broken bolts out with them so they won’t be an issue drilling metal.

 

[seber]

I use carbide bits for hardened steel. Even M2 can be drilled with them. Still, I must admit, I have at times resorted to friction drilling with cement bits. If you are limited to a hand drill, that is where I would go.

 

[Sanderguy777]

I use carbide bits for hardened steel. Even M2 can be drilled with them. Still, I must admit, I have at times resorted to friction drilling with cement bits. If you are limited to a hand drill, that is where I would go.

Where? Friction or carbide? And for the masonry bits, do you use the carbide tipped Bosch ones, or generic ones with lesser carbide tips?

 

[Sanderguy777]

Drill Hog are amazing good USA made bits. Them and Snap-on are the only ones I’ve ever used that I haven’t broken one of yet. And they have drilled through everything pretty much. Those were what was recommended to me when I started fixing cars and I’ve been using them ever since. Drilled plenty of broken bolts out with them so they won’t be an issue drilling metal.

I just saw those on Ebay the other day. They offer more than one steel type, which should I get?

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

I just saw those on Ebay the other day. They offer more than one steel type, which should I get?

The M42 Cobalt is what I’ve got and what a lot of guys I work with have . They are very strong and have a lifetime warranty a picture will get a replacement so that a plus too if they were to ever break which they feel pretty strong. I know you mentioned using Cobalt before but you won’t be disappointed with this brand.

 

[BTL-A4]

I am in the market for some good all around drill bit kit, as my old good set has been abused and I just killed two bits trying to drill through an old SS knife tang. It was my mom's when she married my dad, and the handle has been rotted for years, and the knife itself dull, really dull, for 20 years. I finally got her approval to fix the handle and sharpen it, but now I have dulled 2 cobalt bits, and dulled one HSS bit, and broken another.

I used to use the good cobalt bits on wood until I got dedicated wood bits, but now I just need a set of really good bits that I can supplement as they break, at this point, there are more empty spaces in the current set than there are bits, and the bits still there are probably dull.

I don't know how to sharpen bits, and I doubt cobalt it's are the type to learn on, so I just want to get a new set.

I mostly mess with unhardened steel, but occasionally find some hardened steel or aluminum I need to make holes in. I don't want want spend a fortune, and I'd like to be able to get the kit at home depot, or Lowes, but I understand that they probably don't have what I need.

I use a regular hand drill for metal work, so I assume my problem is that I was going too fast, and using dull bits, but any tips on how to make bits last longer would be helpful!

I have a set of Triumph Twist Drill bits. US-made. I think I paid around $200, maybe a little less. I use them on my mill and lathe and drill press.

You will not find what you are looking for at Home Depot or Lowes; you'll need to go to a place that sells machine tools. I'm in the SoCal LA area, and there are lots of places. I got mine at a little tool store in the Valley.

Use slow RPM's when drilling metal. Use lube/cutting fluid.

 

[Sanderguy777]

The M42 Cobalt is what I’ve got and what a lot of guys I work with have . They are very strong and have a lifetime warranty a picture will get a replacement so that a plus too if they were to ever break which they feel pretty strong. I know you mentioned using Cobalt before but you won’t be disappointed with this brand.

Sounds great! Do you get them from ebay, or is there another place to get them?

I have a set of Triumph Twist Drill bits. US-made. I think I paid around $200, maybe a little less. I use them on my mill and lathe and drill press.

You will not find what you are looking for at Home Depot or Lowes; you'll need to go to a place that sells machine tools. I'm in the SoCal LA area, and there are lots of places. I got mine at a little tool store in the Valley.

Use slow RPM's when drilling metal. Use lube/cutting fluid.

Yeah, I didn't think HD or Lowes would have them, but thought I'd ask.

Are the Triumph ones an older brand, or are they still making tools? Like do I need to look on the used section on ebay?

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Sounds great! Do you get them from ebay, or is there another place to get them?

Yeah, I didn't think HD or Lowes would have them, but thought I'd ask.

Are the Triumph ones an older brand, or are they still making tools? Like do I need to look on the used section on ebay?

Yep eBay is where I got them from. You maybe able to order on their site too I’m not sure. But either way they will honor warranty from what I’ve heard.

 

[AmericanMechanic]

I've never seen Drill Hog brand bits that are made in USA as far as i can tell. I believe its marketing name creativity. If you search there are probably at least 6 to 10 USA made bit brands.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Drill Doctor is a reasonable bit sharpener for most domestic sharpening. I wanted more than a DD offered, so I bought a STERLING.

What are cobalt drill bits?

Each drilling job requires the appropriate type of drill bit. Learn about cobalt drill bits in this article.

home.howstuffworks.com

The STERLING Drill Grinder – Performance Unmatched in the Industry!

You’ve found the home of the STERLING Drill Grinder, the tool that requires NO chucks, NO collets, and NO wrenches—even when sharpening different diameter drills.

www.sterlingdrillgrinder.com

If you can find a LISLE 91000 they are a fantastic sharpener.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Drill Hog are amazing good USA made bits.

Drill Hot sells 3 different grades of bits. ME (black finish), M7 (gold and black finish) and M42 (also black and gold) cobalt bits.

When drilling metal (unless ≤ 1/4" or known to be "soft") always start with a "pilot" bit. They will not "walk". They make a small shallow hole, but now the next bit has something to bite into.

Drilling any kind of hardened metal is difficult. Keep the speed appropriate for the drill size and use steady even pressure.

 

[CallumRD1]

Drill Hot sells 3 different grades of bits. ME (black finish), M7 (gold and black finish) and M42 (also black and gold) carbide bits.

When drilling metal (unless ≤ 1/4" or known to be "soft") always start with a "pilot" bit. They will not "walk". They make a small shallow hole, but now the next bit has something to bite into.

Drilling any kind of hardened metal is difficult. Keep the speed appropriate for the drill size and use steady even pressure.

You mean M42 cobalt drills, not carbide drills. Carbide drills are much harder, much more brittle, and never a good idea to use in a hand drill. They should be reserved for rigid setups in mills or drill presses but can drill through fully hardened steel like butter. Cobalt (M35 or M42) drills are a somewhat harder, more brittle, more heat resistant high speed steel alloy that is fine in a hand drill when used properly but is still more brittle than your standard high speed steel drills. Note that while a small pilot (approximately the diameter of the web of the large drill) is appropriate when hand drilling larger holes, you shouldn't step up through multiple drill sizes to enlarge the hole. The load on the corners of the drill will cause them to fail prematurely and the drill will have a tendency to self-feed into the hole especially at breakthrough which can be very dangerous either to your wrist in a hand drill or by having the part sucked up into the drill on a drill press. When drilling large holes in thin sections of material use a step drill. Much faster, easier, and safer.

 

[theoldwizard1]

You mean M42 cobalt drills, not carbide drills.

Thanks ! I fixed it !

 

[Sanderguy777]

You mean M42 cobalt drills, not carbide drills. Carbide drills are much harder, much more brittle, and never a good idea to use in a hand drill. They should be reserved for rigid setups in mills or drill presses but can drill through fully hardened steel like butter. Cobalt (M35 or M42) drills are a somewhat harder, more brittle, more heat resistant high speed steel alloy that is fine in a hand drill when used properly but is still more brittle than your standard high speed steel drills. Note that while a small pilot (approximately the diameter of the web of the large drill) is appropriate when hand drilling larger holes, you shouldn't step up through multiple drill sizes to enlarge the hole. The load on the corners of the drill will cause them to fail prematurely and the drill will have a tendency to self-feed into the hole especially at breakthrough which can be very dangerous either to your wrist in a hand drill or by having the part sucked up into the drill on a drill press. When drilling large holes in thin sections of material use a step drill. Much faster, easier, and safer.

so, this is only 1/16" thick, should I try a step drill? or do they make them in 5/32" dia.? ( I know they are stepped and have various sizes, but are there any THAT small? the ones I see always look like they start at like 1/4" and go up).

 

[CallumRD1]

so, this is only 1/16" thick, should I try a step drill? or do they make them in 5/32" dia.? ( I know they are stepped and have various sizes, but are there any THAT small? the ones I see always look like they start at like 1/4" and go up).

For 5/32 just drill it with a quality cobalt drill, no pilot. If the steel is fully hardened and a new twist drill won't cut it then you can draw the temper back by carefully heating it with a torch until it's a deep straw color (NOT red hot). Wrap the blade with a wet paper towel or submerge it in water while doing so to preserve the temper where you need it in the blade.

 

[Indexmill]

Drill Hog bits are not made in the USA; it is a marketing play to make you think they are.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

For stainless you want hard feed pressure, cooling fluid, and slow drill rotation.
this is probably more important than the actual bit you use, but be aware the spots you tried to drill before are now hardened.

 

[seber]

Where? Friction or carbide? And for the masonry bits, do you use the carbide tipped Bosch ones, or generic ones with lesser carbide tips?

Cheap carbide bits for friction drilling. Often sold in sets for a dollar. The reason for that in a hand drill is that you cannot get enough force or control for slow high pressure drilling.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Drill Hog bits are not made in the USA; it is a marketing play to make you think they are.

Agreed. I have seen zero evidence, aside from "USA" in the name, that the bits are american made.

 

[M6erfan]

I haven't looked in a while but some of the DH products say "made in USA", most do not. The whole Drill Hog website is rather sketchy IMO.

 

[CallumRD1]

I haven't looked in a while but some of the DH products say "made in USA", most do not. The whole Drill Hog website is rather sketchy IMO.

Drill hog does (or at least did for a long time) use American made Huot drill indices so they could slap a made in USA sticker on it, giving the false impression that the drills are also made in USA.

 

[Nthill93]

I needed a good set of bits for drilling broken bolts yesterday so I went to check drill hog bits out but can’t see anywhere they say made in USA. I ended up with a set of Chicago latrobe 550 series for a couple more dollars

 

[Sanderguy777]

I ended up getting a 5/32 cobalt bit from Milwaukee. It didn't really trick and I have the knife put together (now to find a way to post pictures from my phone...)

I almost got the set of them, but didn't see the use in spending $60 on mediocre quality that is clearly not gonna last very long.

If Drill hog aren't US made, then what brands are? Is US steel better than GOOD Taiwanese or German steel?

 

[Steve_P]

Norseman is USA. Drill Hog drill bits are not, unless something has recently changed, except for maybe some of their step bits. Lots of threads on this here. If the bit is bigger than ~1/8" and not marked USA, like Norseman does.....

 

[Craftfab]

https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits/

McMaster is always a good reference spot for information on size and coatings of drill bits for various materials. The last few drill bits I have ordered from them have all been USA made.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

This is the first I’ve heard of them not being USA made. It says online they are and I see nothing to make it seem they aren’t. Very well made. Norseman are really good as well.

 

[M6erfan]

This is the first I’ve heard of them not being USA made. It says online they are and I see nothing to make it seem they aren’t. Very well made. Norseman are really good as well.

Where do you see that they are made in USA?

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Where do you see that they are made in USA?

Right on the website and eBay too.

 

[M6erfan]

Right on the website and eBay too.

Not sure which listing that is for, but I randomly looked up several drill bit sets on his website and none that I saw had that statement

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Not sure which listing that is for, but I randomly looked up several drill bit sets on his website and none that I saw had that statement.

This set is the one I got that from.

 

[M6erfan]

This set is the one I got that from.

OK, "Super Pig Steel" eh? Lol.

I went back to the website and it looks like The M60 bit sets are USA made. None of the others I looked at are (M42, M7, left hand, Metric. . .) Shop carefully.

 

[Indexmill]

There are a number of Made in USA brands of drill bits. CLE is the new name for what was Cleveland Drill Bit Company. CL (Chicago Latrobe) is still made in the USA. Norseman as already said. And there are others.

I have found and bought many a NOS Made in USA drill bit set on eBay; often for small money compared to today's regular prices for MinUSA. Just spend some time searching for NOS drill bit set; nearly every listing will be MinUSA because they are "old" when everything as Made in the USA.

 

[Sanderguy777]

There are a number of Made in USA brands of drill bits. CLE is the new name for what was Cleveland Drill Bit Company. CL (Chicago Latrobe) is still made in the USA. Norseman as already said. And there are others.

I have found and bought many a NOS Made in USA drill bit set on eBay; often for small money compared to today's regular prices for MinUSA. Just spend some time searching for NOS drill bit set; nearly every listing will be MinUSA because they are "old" when everything as Made in the USA.

What is NOS? Is it an organization certification like ANSI or something?

 

[AL`]

New Old Stock

 

[Sanderguy777]

I just ordered the Norseman 29pc kit super magnum I think, but they were the only ones I found that had the nice metal index as opposed to the round thing I can't store lol
(This was using Amazon.com by the way, so filters and such are basically worthless. I'm sure they make other kits with the nice boxes, but that was the first one that had it and was under $100, though only by $12)

 

[cib]

I just ordered the Norseman 29pc kit super magnum I think, but they were the only ones I found that had the nice metal index as opposed to the round thing I can't store lol
(This was using Amazon.com by the way, so filters and such are basically worthless. I'm sure they make other kits with the nice boxes, but that was the first one that had it and was under $100, though only by $12)

Norseman is my go to for drilling normal steel and other metals.

for a knife tang a 3/16 full carbide bit. Cheap enough if they break I won’t cry. Then use carbide tile bits to ream to the proper size. This is the cheapest and most effective method I I’ve found for drilling knife tangs.

 

[liliysdad]

I am currently using a set of Alfa bits that I bought from a local industrial supply place. Made in the USA, seem to be excellent as of yet. For general, don't give a **** uses I have a couple sets of HF bits that cut "OK" after a run through the Drill Doctor. I also have a pile of carbide drill bits I use for special occasions.

 

[BTL-A4]

Sounds great! Do you get them from ebay, or is there another place to get them?

Yeah, I didn't think HD or Lowes would have them, but thought I'd ask.

Are the Triumph ones an older brand, or are they still making tools? Like do I need to look on the used section on ebay?

Triumph is still around. I bought my set (letter, number and fractional) at an independent tool store in the San Fernando Valley.
This set: http://shop.triumphtwistdrill.com/Product/ViewItem?part=T123B
MSC has them for $350, but I know I paid less than that.

 

[Steve_P]

I go by the product marking first, packaging marking second, for COO. If it doesn't say made in USA, and has no COO, then I assume it is China. And I can see a company saying, oh we forgot to update our website where it says USA, or that was a typo....
As far as pig steel...