Best budget/aesthetic workbench top

[Sheikster405]

First of all. Hello from just south of Dallas Tx. Been lurking on here for about two weeks. I've lived in my home for 5 years and finally decided to fix up the garage. I'm basically a newbie/DIY/ weekend warrior.

I'm building my first bench. I was wondering what's the best budget workbench top that's aesthetically pleasing. I won't be putting anything too heavy on it or beating on it that hard. Basically taking things apart/putting back together. Building small things around the house (bookcases, shelves, planters, etc)

Thanks for any help.

 

[deter]

OSB for rough and ready, melamine for nice/clean/smooth. I use both and theyre easy and cheap to replace when I ruin them

 

[works4me]

Bang for the buck concrete is hard to beat. You create a simple form out of 1/2" thick melamine with about 1 1/2" tall sides. Spread a bead of silicone in the corners. Mix some quickset concrete, fill it, maybe throw some spare rebar in to strengthen it, smooth the top with a scrap of wood, and let it dry. Then take off the melamine (it can be reused) and flip it over (that's the key trick). The top comes out nice and smooth. It looks awesome and lasts forever.

Having said that, I was going to create some concrete tops for some new workbenches I built out of square steel tube. I got as far as cutting the melamine sheets to make the forms and I got distracted. I've been using them with just the melamine on top since then and it works very well.

 

[rcktsled]

Make the bench top out of any old scrap plywood or OSB you have laying around, then cover it with the cheapest click-lock wood flooring (like Pergo) you can find and just tack it down at the corners. That way, when a section of the top gets damaged you can take it apart and just replace the damaged planks.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Two layers OSB (cheap) covered with tempered hardboard (Masonite) which is durable, not too ugly and easily replaced. I put mopboard edging around my two layers of OSB glued together and left 3/16" lip that the Masonite sits in.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Here's about a thousand posts to help you answer that question.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50406&page=54

Good luck

 

[Crazy68Dart]

I like MDF -- past few benches, 1 sheet, have it cut in half at HD/Lowes, bring it home, screw one half to bench bottom/legs/bracing and then lay other half on top and use short screws from the bottom up so no screw heads, etc. nice and smooth. Easily replaced.

 

[8man]

Salvaged solid core door. Cut to fit. Cheap, durable and can be finished.

 

[Streetbu]

I used 3/4" plywood, then several coats of polyurethane to seal it so oils won't soak into it.

 

[matt_i]

Masonite/hardboard is hard to beat for light use. It won't like water and oils but will stay clean.

Another idea is to try to poach a piece of Corian countertop from someone going granite. Ask your significant other. They will probably know who is about to go granite.

 

[ez-duzit]

Masonite.

 

[huttojb216]

Agree with a solid core door...sturdy, looks great and very adaptable! I have 2 great benches...

 

[zkling]

vinyl flooring

 

[James-W]

I built a 4ft by 8ft frame from 2X4's and then I used 3/4 particle board with a 1/4 inch Masonite top. I have 6 wheels on the workbench so I can easily move it around the shop to wherever I need it. Underneath the workbench there is storage space to put all sorts of stuff where it is out of the way but close at hand when needed. Having a workbench that is movable can come in very handy at times.

 

[TerryH]

I built 2 benches that use the solid core door idea already posted. They are great. I edge banded the doors with hardwood and covered the door with 1/4" melamine that matches the other tables and such in my shop. Works great and the melamine is easily replaced when it gets to looking bad.

This one is due a change of melamine.

 

[Sheikster405]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[AirJunky]

I built mine out of 2x6s, like you'd build a deck. Then put masonite on top of it, the thought being that as the masonite got thrashed from beating on things with a hammer, drilling, cutting, spilling oil on it, paint overspray, etc, that I could just replace the masonite as needed. It's been about 5 or 6 yrs & I need to replace the masonite. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[dslabuda]

8ft section of laminate countertop, around 25-30 bucks. Ignore the mess, I'm in here cleaning atm.




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[KraftwerkMk1Jetta]

Is the melamine resistant to oils or gas spills or will they **** it up?

 

[ez-duzit]

The off-cut table on my main table saw is covered in Masonite. And is a much used workbench. The woodworkers vice sets flush. A rollaway cabinet and drawer unit provide storage and power tool shelf.

On the table saw side, I've added a router table that also uses the Unifence. On the right you see the sliding table track; on the left is an extension of the radial arm saw fence.

 

[My Old Tools]

For $140 you can run up to Ikea in Frisco and get a nice beech butcher block top, 25"x72" or 96".

 

[elefan]

I chose beech wood.. By far the cheapest option around here besides the solid core doirs that are extremely scarse in these areas for some reasons. They exist but usually have patterns and engravings as **** making the too thin in certain areas. Those that were not was too expensive compared to beechwood counter tops and had poor dimension(too wide and not long enough)

 

[cabranch47]

I used laminate flooring. Easy cleanup, not expensive, and you can replace an area if needed. I installed it, screwed it down and routed the edge to fit my workbench. Looks great and has held up well for 6 months so far.

 

[jimgood]

8ft section of laminate countertop, around 25-30 bucks. Ignore the mess, I'm in here cleaning atm.

I love that you labeled the workbench "WORKBENCH". That's friggin priceless! Just to be sure we don't confuse it with, oh say, the "TOOLBOX".

 

[TheShrine]

It is my experience that the non-perforated hardboard works well. I lay it on top of 2 sheets of OSB and short screw it in place. It takes a beating and easily replaced when abused too much. In the areas where there will be oil and such I cover it with a steel sheet.





I bought this on a fluke from Harbor Freight...Love it!

 

[LandofRath]

MDF on my woodworking benches because its cheap and I don't care if I drill into it. (Sacrificial top) Easy to replace

I have birch on my mechanic bench just to hold up to oil and grease better

 

[Kevin54]

I love that you labeled the workbench "WORKBENCH". That's friggin priceless! Just to be sure we don't confuse it with, oh say, the "TOOLBOX".

He must have been big into 5S at work and brought his work home with him

 

[Kevin54]

I used laminate flooring. Easy cleanup, not expensive, and you can replace an area if needed. I installed it, screwed it down and routed the edge to fit my workbench. Looks great and has held up well for 6 months so far.

I built a 4x8 workbench a while back and covered it with laminate flooring. I think all total I had maybe $20 in the flooring. It made for a very nice bench top. I used a pin nailer around the outer edges and just let the center float. Then I put a piece of 1x2 around the outer edges. I'll see if I can dig up a pic of it.

 

[19Vert64]

It is my experience that the non-perforated hardboard works well. I lay it on top of 2 sheets of OSB and short screw it in place. It takes a beating and easily replaced when abused too much. In the areas where there will be oil and such I cover it with a steel sheet.











I bought this on a fluke from Harbor Freight...Love it!

Got the same one, can't beat it for the $129 it cost!


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[jgorm]

He must have been big into 5S at work and brought his work home with him

I 5S'd a bunch of stuff in my garage. At work, we have the keyboard and mouse taped off and labeled! Also the full size bridgeport mill has tape around it, so that nobody come in move it around. It's a bit overboard, but the basics of 5S are helpful.

 

[straightcut]

I've had great results with Masonite. I give it a few heavy coats of polyurethane that soaks in like a sponge. It dries very hard and makes it 100% waterproof and MUCH tougher than bare Masonite.

In the unlikely event you do destroy it, it's cheap and easy to replace.

 

[ZRX61]

I love that you labeled the workbench "WORKBENCH". That's friggin priceless! Just to be sure we don't confuse it with, oh say, the "TOOLBOX".

I was wondering about that too...

 

[dslabuda]

I love that you labeled the workbench "WORKBENCH". That's friggin priceless! Just to be sure we don't confuse it with, oh say, the "TOOLBOX".

He must have been big into 5S at work and brought his work home with him

I 5S'd a bunch of stuff in my garage. At work, we have the keyboard and mouse taped off and labeled! Also the full size bridgeport mill has tape around it, so that nobody come in move it around. It's a bit overboard, but the basics of 5S are helpful.

The fridge is labelled "BEER" as well.

It goes back to railroad humor about taking instructions literally and exactly as given





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[crab]

3/16 steel plate, 1 inch sq. tubing legs with nuts welded in for levelers and a shelf. You can see it in my avatar. You could set a car on that thing. Actually made 3 of those, 2 for friends. If you do some welding and fab work it's the ticket, otherwise it's way overkill.

 

[lowbucktruck]

Salvaged solid core door. Cut to fit. Cheap, durable and can be finished.

Hard to beat a solid core wood door for a workbench surface. Cheap, sturdy and you can paint or stain it to your preference.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1645898&highlight=lowbucktruck#post1645898

 

[theundermount]

can't beat good old 3/4 inch plywood

 

[MarkG]

I've read BOOKS on the subject before I built my own bench (woodworking/general 'project use') and settled on Masonite on top of 2 layers of 3/4" plywood all glued up and edge-banded with 3/4 Oak.

I just surfaced my 4 x 8 worktable the same way, except I made the edge-banding 'capture' the sheet of Masonite, which just sits there captured by the edge-banding. When it gets too worn, I'll flip it over and have a fresh surface.

In both cases, I saturate the Masonite with several coats of Watco, wiping off after it's soaked up all it can after each coat. Do this as many times as you have the patience for, and you'll have a very tough slick surface that won't damage edge tools, is cheap, 'repairable' (with more oil) and can easily be replaced or just flipped over for a fresh surface. As long as the dark brownish look after oiling isn't a problem with you, it's a great versatile, durable smooth surface.

Of course, this won't work for you if you value the 'traditional woodworking bench' look more than practicality. This is strictly functional------not to win a beauty contest.

 

[ez-duzit]

can't beat good old 3/4 inch plywood

Not trying to pick on your post. But you made me think "3/4 MDO beats 3/4 plywood", for a stand-alone bench top. And in some cases MDF is a better choice; it's flatter, smoother, doesn't splinter, ...

 

[NewShockerGuy]

For $140 you can run up to Ikea in Frisco and get a nice beech butcher block top, 25"x72" or 96".

I did this for my cabinet in the garage. Very awesome quality.

My only mistake was using stupid Waterlox to seal it. Even 3 years later if I put a piece of paper on it and it gets warm in the garage, the coating will "hold" onto the paper... Not sure why. I would have been better off with using some type of lacquer I think rather than that ****. It looks nice but is "tacky" at times which I could never understand. Followed the directions to the T.

-Nigel

 

[My Old Tools]

I did this for my cabinet in the garage. Very awesome quality.

My only mistake was using stupid Waterlox to seal it. Even 3 years later if I put a piece of paper on it and it gets warm in the garage, the coating will "hold" onto the paper... Not sure why. I would have been better off with using some type of lacquer I think rather than that ****. It looks nice but is "tacky" at times which I could never understand. Followed the directions to the T.

-Nigel

I wiped a coat of Tried n True varnish oil on mine, mostly linseed. I use it a lot. Why not wipe it down with lacquer thinner and try again?