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techieman33

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Jun 18, 2018
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38 bucks for a single gang rubber box? No thanks. I'll keep using my metal boxes at home

A lot of them are actually 2 gang boxes, you end up with a single gang on 2 sides. And the ones I linked are actually the cheap ones, the Leviton versions are around $100 each. They are better than the metal boxes both from a durability and a safety standpoint. They're worth the expense if your hard on your gear like we tend to be in the live entertainment industry. A cheaper legal alternative would be to just put a triple tap on the end of them. But yeah if I was building something for my own use that would only be used by me at a home shop and not moving around a lot then I would just use a metal box if I needed a quad.
 

MeentSS02

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Just so your aware the metal quad boxes aren't allowed anymore. Your supposed to use rubberized boxes like these. https://www.oawindsor.com/

I wasn't aware that what I did was allowed period...I did it out of convenience, which of course isn't the right answer.

What set of rules does cover something like what I did? I didn't even know where to start, and I'd like to learn. I'm not above fixing my mistakes, although I do not plan on making more of that type of extension cord at this time. I went through a lot of hassle to make sure those boxes were wired properly, including grounding everything (which involved drilling/tapping a hole in the boxes in a location that did not interfere with the outlets or setting it on the ground).
 

techieman33

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I wasn't aware that what I did was allowed period...I did it out of convenience, which of course isn't the right answer.

What set of rules does cover something like what I did? I didn't even know where to start, and I'd like to learn. I'm not above fixing my mistakes, although I do not plan on making more of that type of extension cord at this time. I went through a lot of hassle to make sure those boxes were wired properly, including grounding everything (which involved drilling/tapping a hole in the boxes in a location that did not interfere with the outlets or setting it on the ground).

It's in the NEC, I couldn't quote you the relevant passages though. I'm not an electrician. I work with lighting and power for live concerts, musicals, etc. I keep up to date with what is and isn't allowed in my area of things by reading forums and articles related to the industry. And I've read small passages of it that were posted related to my field. But I've never really dug into it. It's a lot of very dry reading, it's not really needed for my limited electrical tasks, and it's costs around $130 to buy a copy of it.


Anyone onto the problems. The biggest problem is that the box isn't listed for that use by UL or any of the other nationally regulated testing bodies. So if you needed to file an insurance claim and they find that that box was the cause you could be hung out to dry. Could be that a wire comes lose, it shorts to the box and starts a fire. One of the knock outs could get knocked into the box and causes a short. Or maybe the knockout doesn't cause a short but some idiot sticks their finger in there and gets a shock or electrocuted, or some other metallic object gets in there and cause a short. Or maybe the ground gets cut upstream of the box and the box itself becomes live and shocks or electrocutes someone. Basically there are lots of bad things that could potentially result in someone getting hurt, or property getting damaged. The chance of any of those things happening if the box is properly wired, the cable and wiring are regularly inspected, and it's plugged into a GFCI are probably pretty slim. But it is a liability issue, if something does go wrong it could all come crashing down on you. So you have to decide if your willing accept that.
 

theoldwizard1

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The Hubbell plugs are more expensive, but they're worth it IMO. Everything else is more frustrating to work with. Especially when you work in a theater like me and have to take the apart for inspection on a regular basis.
I have replaced more than a few cord ends in my years.

My tip is, strip a little extra insulation off of wire and then "tin" the strands. The soldered wire is easy to form and you don't have to worry about any "whiskers". Trim to fit.

IIRC the Hubbell cord ends have a clamp instead of just a screw. Nice, but I still like to tin the strands.
 

sberry

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I wasn't aware that what I did was allowed period...I did it out of convenience, which of course isn't the right answer.

What set of rules does cover something like what I did? I didn't even know where to start, and I'd like to learn. I'm not above fixing my mistakes, although I do not plan on making more of that type of extension cord at this time. I went through a lot of hassle to make sure those boxes were wired properly, including grounding everything (which involved drilling/tapping a hole in the boxes in a location that did not interfere with the outlets or setting it on the ground).

I might have said this earlier but,,,,, one of the main things is to have a 12 cord with multiple outlets. Power strips and other schemes some using 16 cord have additional thermal overcurrent protection on them. A 12 cord is legal with 3 way or multiples as it will pass thru 20A, let's the breaker provide thermal.
 

MeentSS02

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Dayton, OH
Thanks for the insights.

When I made them, I intended them to only be used to extend my collection of 20A outlets in my garage, primarily when I'm working with my router and other wood working tools just outside of the garage. I used a NEMA 5-20P plug end on them, so I'm limited on where I can even plug them in (although I have many 20A circuits in the house, none of the outlets have the t-slot - only the ones in the garage do). I do realize that that wasn't necessary.

The cordage is 12/3 SOOW, and was some of the nicest stuff I've worked with (although I don't have extensive experience in this area). Stripping it was a bit of a chore though.

I may try ordering one of those rubber boxes...clearly these metal boxes have many shortcomings as they were never intended for something like this. I even went so far as to install rubber feet on them. While expensive, the rubber boxes appear to be a really nice solution.
 

sberry

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Yes, use 15 ends. The only real use for them is to prevent plug in in unwanted places. It's a quick rush to judgement to assume that it's to provide for a special tool, in the real world it's to prevent.
 

nastorino

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CT
I probably should have paid closer attention to the diameter of the cordage when I bought it...oh well, too late now.

This is what I ended up with:

Extension-Cords.jpg


The top two are 12/3 SOOW, 20' each.

The bottom one is a 10' 10/3 SOOW, made specifically for a table saw that didn't seem to like being run on one of my existing extension cords.

These look great. Where do you recommend purchasing SOOW or SJOOW cord from for a DIY setup?
 

MeentSS02

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nastorino

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CT
I got mine from here:

SOOW: https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/soow-600v/

SJOOW: https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/sjoow-300v/

I'm sure there may be cheaper places out there, but IMO, their stuff was reasonable, and I was happy with the quality. They also have a huge selection of all kinds of cordage/wire/etc.

If anyone has a better source, I'm all ears.

Thanks man I appreciate it. I'll take a look at both of them. I haven't decided on SJOOW vs SOOW for personal use while remodeling and DIY around the house. I was thinking 12/3 with 20amp ends. Another with 15 amp ends. And a third unit... If I use a duplex i'd stick with the 12/3 but if I go for the quad box I'm not sure I should stick with that cord gauge. Plus the cost of going for a quad box when I would struggle to fill all the receptacles. I'm all battery minus my miter saw and table saw.
 
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mike93lx

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Thanks man I appreciate it. I'll take a look at both of them. I haven't decided on SJOOW vs SOOW for personal use while remodeling and DIY around the house. I was thinking 12/3 with 20amp ends. Another with 15 amp ends. And a third unit... If I use a duplex i'd stick with the 12/3 but if I go for the quad box I'm not sure I should stick with that cord gauge. Plus the cost of going for a quad box when I would struggle to fill all the receptacles. I'm all battery minus my miter saw and table saw.

do you really have anything that needs or justifies a 20amp plug? those are very rare and if you are plugging in multiple high draw items (large shop vac and a table saw/miter saw), you'd be better off on two separate circuits anyway.
 

sberry

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Use 15 ends. The 20 are for 20 but it's not why they are used. A 15 will pass 20 just fine. What a 20 does it say, ,,,, it's ok. or its a dedicated and we allow 20 here or the particular tool with that end to be used here. They are used mostly in janitorial and occasionally on other equipment but here is basically why.
Let's say we are in a lab, computers or science and it has equipment or experiments plugged in and the cleaning lady comes along with a vacation and trips it up, ruins stuff, starts fooling with the breakers etc. There are lots of pieces that don't actually require a 20 in that same sense, lots have 14 cord but long cord that by design forces the use of a particular circuit in the hallway, sometimes dedicated but where it's intended to be used.
I was in a school a while back and see a common household vac that had 16 cord and had 20 end installed after the fact,,,, of course Daisy had twisted it straight ,,,, but the idea was to prevent it from being used on general circuits.
It's allowed to put the 20 recepts on 20A circuits, diy and home types do it all the time, it's never an issue due to the fact it's 20 circuits but not needed cause nothing really comes with the end. The use of 15 recept simply prevents the use of a 20 end,, nothing more.
Welders, comps, all the stuff that needs 20 circuits all come 15 today, it's up to the user that it's acceptable to plug them in and not trip up sensitive equipment and it's stuff not often used in office, school hallways etc and will still plug in to a 15/20 outlet anyway.
Absolutely no,,, no use for a diy to use a 20 end on a cord. Common ready made cords are so competitive and for sale everywhere it's an exercise in mental masurbation to buy materials to make this stuff to start with,,, why? Are we so special we can't use something off the shelf and designed for it?
There was a thread a while back, the mother in law needed a cord for weed whacker and blower, it didn't take long to suggest the right idea was to go to the supply house and get 100 fr of SO and some ends,,, got to wonder if she likes the idea of toting 40# of cord out to blow a few leaves,, duh, poor woman would blow a gasket before she got started with some filthy black cord.
If we really look it's usually some hobby types spring to this idea,, most of the time although there are occasions we get some experts come up with these brain farts too.
 

sberry

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Thanks man I appreciate it. I'll take a look at both of them. I haven't decided on SJOOW vs SOOW for personal use while remodeling and DIY around the house. I was thinking 12/3 with 20amp ends. Another with 15 amp ends. And a third unit... If I use a duplex i'd stick with the 12/3 but if I go for the quad box I'm not sure I should stick with that cord gauge. Plus the cost of going for a quad box when I would struggle to fill all the receptacles. I'm all battery minus my miter saw and table saw.

This is kind of what I mean. Buy a ready made cord and a 3 way. If you want to be super legal use the 3 way on a 12 but there is likely no reason it's needed if not left unattended with multiple heaters plugged in. For remodel, diy, 14 for continious use of heavy hand tools, vacs, mostly 16 is suffecient.
Skip all that **** and get a couple cords practical, sometimes it's 16/25 or 50,, those are my FIRST choice if they are suffecient. Very LAST would be a fabricated cord , bulky, expensive, scuffs black.
 

nastorino

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do you really have anything that needs or justifies a 20amp plug? those are very rare and if you are plugging in multiple high draw items (large shop vac and a table saw/miter saw), you'd be better off on two separate circuits anyway.

This is kind of what I mean. Buy a ready made cord and a 3 way. If you want to be super legal use the 3 way on a 12 but there is likely no reason it's needed if not left unattended with multiple heaters plugged in. For remodel, diy, 14 for continious use of heavy hand tools, vacs, mostly 16 is suffecient.
Skip all that **** and get a couple cords practical, sometimes it's 16/25 or 50,, those are my FIRST choice if they are suffecient. Very LAST would be a fabricated cord , bulky, expensive, scuffs black.


Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to go with your suggestion and grab a couple premade cords. I'm going to stick with a SJEOW or SJEOOW cord to make them more manageable for cold conditions. I already have a Hubbell manual GFCI line cord to offer protection during poor conditions.

I haven't heard anything about the Badass extensions cords but they make some nice 14/3 SJEOW cold weather cords with lighted ends that I'e been considering. I might snag a single or a triple from them.

https://www.badassextensioncords.com/cold-weather-extension-cords
 

sberry

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Things are different than they used to be. Last time I made a cord nearly 30 years ago before there were 3 box stores in every town along with HF. They were so nice someone wanted them more than I did. But when I look on the shelf in Menards and especially HD there is 1/3 of an isle of them, very competitive, all listed, with molded ends and we even got lights on some today.
I am all for getting something new, can buy a new 16/25 cheaper than a couple ends. While I was there would get a couple along with a new good one, use the cheap stuff where practical. If I was buying a new 100 for real tools the 14 would be on my short list unless I absolutely needed something better for a specific reason.
 

nadogail

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Coronado, CA
As I have gained more knowledge and experience, I will buy a box store extension cord when and if I need to replace one I have, unless I should be fortunate to acquire suitable cable and connectors at little or no cost.

The last extension cord I built uses 8/4 cable and it is for my arc welder.
 

mike93lx

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As I have gained more knowledge and experience, I will buy a box store extension cord when and if I need to replace one I have, unless I should be fortunate to acquire suitable cable and connectors at little or no cost.

The last extension cord I built uses 8/4 cable and it is for my arc welder.

Why did you use 4 conductor for a welder?
 

sberry

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Free or cheap is good. I have sort of hobby custom built but I try to keep an eye on it when it works out. If I am savings g 20 or 30 an hour building or repairing it's some incentive. I got vested in some axles, spindles and hubs and after buying bearings and seals could have bought new and better about 20 bucks more.
Wire is such a deal that it's cheaper. Ready made is so competitive.
 
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justsam

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Penngrove, California
I won't buy an extension cord today that does not have a lighted end. Far too many times in situations with multiple trades that someone pulls a plug, shuts off a breaker etc. Rather than chase it down the light tells you right away.
 
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