Best Hand Impact Driver

[JDon99]

I'm in the market for a USA made hand impact driver. The three I've been looking at are the Proto, Williams, and Snap On. I'm leaning towards the Proto, unless one of the others perform that much better.

 

[WWheeler]

I have a 3/8" Proto which is alright I guess, but I much prefer my Lisle 1/2" hand impact to it (also USA made). I only bought the Lisle after breaking several bits with the 3/8" trying to get the rotors off the wife's Prelude (more than a decade ago). I've not had that problem with the 1/2". It got those rotors off and I've (ab)used it many more times since. Not even sure I've seen a 1/2" Proto one.

 

[Skin]

Japanese but, Koken Attack Driver has the best ergonomics and also comes with decent bits. The latter is arguably more important than the impact driver itself. The Snap-On set is also very good but is huge money.

 

[JDon99]

Japanese but, Koken Attack Driver has the best ergonomics and also comes with decent bits. The latter is arguably more important than the impact driver itself. The Snap-On set is also very good but is huge money.

I looked at the Koken, just figured there had to be a good USA offering.

 

[mbshop]

Mine was a lisle. Took the beating for over 30 years. Now retired. Interestingly, harbor freight makes a small one that has saved my **** several times. Make sure you take it apart and grease it up.

 

[heytrid]

I had a cheap one (no name taiwan) and it sucked, bought a snap on one 10 years ago and did not have an issue with it.

 

[Skin]

I looked at the Koken, just figured there had to be a good USA offering.

Nothing with the same ergonomics. The rubber boot saves your hand from taking as much of a beating when you really have to lay the hammer into it.

I have a 3/8" Proto which is alright I guess, but I much prefer my Lisle 1/2" hand impact to it (also USA made). I only bought the Lisle after breaking several bits with the 3/8" trying to get the rotors off the wife's Prelude (more than a decade ago). I've not had that problem with the 1/2". It got those rotors off and I've (ab)used it many more times since. Not even sure I've seen a 1/2" Proto one.

3/8 is most useful for adapting your existing bit sockets. For rotor screws you want to 5/16 shank bits and the adapter.

 

[WWheeler]

3/8 is most useful for adapting your existing bit sockets. For rotor screws you want to 5/16 shank bits and the adapter.

Yep, I use the same 5/16 shank bits in either size, but the 3/8 Proto I have is more likely to break them, and the 1/2 Lisle hasn't yet (knock on wood). Not sure why. IIRC the Proto wants to rotate more with each whack. Perhaps too much? The 1/2" I have just works better for me especially with a bigger sledge. It seems to be the internals of the driver itself that matters, not the bit size.

 

[1foxracing]

I'm in the market for a USA made, I'm leaning towards the Proto

The Proto I purchased last year, works fine though with no problems to report.

 

[Super Mech]

Get the Snap on. I've went thru many of them until I got the Snap on one. Best one I have ever used. Got it brand new with bits on eBay for 125.00.

 

[MN_Runner]

This tool is a must if you own Honda cars and need to do disc rotor replacement jobs. I had Craftsman (not made in USA) and it was a junk so don't waste your time. I waited for Snap On or Mac Tools set then got a new set from eBay for $50. The hand impact set from Mac Tools has been flawless and competent.

 

[ryan20021982]

This tool is a must if you own Honda cars and need to do disc rotor replacement jobs. I had Craftsman (not made in USA) and it was a junk so don't waste your time. I waited for Snap On or Mac Tools set then got a new set from eBay for $50. The hand impact set from Mac Tools has been flawless and competent.

Thats the reason I bought one and think the only time I have used it

 

[MShaw]

I have had a 3/8" drive snap on for 40 + years. It is also a must for the softer than s### phillips screws on motorcycles.

 

[1950mercury]

Mac,proto,lilsle,craftman,and most USA ones are all the same just rebadged. Snap on makes there own.

Koken makes the best

 

[ChaseDE]

This tool is a must if you own Honda cars and need to do disc rotor replacement jobs. I had Craftsman (not made in USA) and it was a junk so don't waste your time. I waited for Snap On or Mac Tools set then got a new set from eBay for $50. The hand impact set from Mac Tools has been flawless and competent.

That is why I bought one as well, from Harbor Freight muahaha

It works pretty well fwiw

 

[WWheeler]

This tool is a must if you own Honda cars and need to do disc rotor replacement jobs. I had Craftsman (not made in USA) and it was a junk so don't waste your time. I waited for Snap On or Mac Tools set then got a new set from eBay for $50. The hand impact set from Mac Tools has been flawless and competent.

That looks exactly like my Proto. I wonder does Proto make the Mac?

Edit: Yep, looks like the Mac is a Proto ( The Truck Tool Equivalents Thread 2.0 ):

[...]
Specialty Tools: [...]
SID13BA 13-Piece 3/8" Drive Manual Impact Driver Set - Proto J7099A
[...]

 

[chris142]

Dont buy this MAC POS. I'm on my 4th one. The first 2 jammed on the first few hits. Then 3rd one worked a few times. Worked well enough to break the bits off then it jammed. 4th one is unused at this point. The HF one I replaced it with works flawlessly.

http://www.mactools.com/en-us/Striking-and-Struck/Impact-Drivers/SXID9K/9-PC-Impact-Driver-Kit

 

[M6erfan]

I have this one and absolutely love it

 

[6PTsocket]

I have a 3/8" Proto which is alright I guess, but I much prefer my Lisle 1/2" hand impact to it (also USA made). I only bought the Lisle after breaking several bits with the 3/8" trying to get the rotors off the wife's Prelude (more than a decade ago). I've not had that problem with the 1/2". It got those rotors off and I've (ab)used it many more times since. Not even sure I've seen a 1/2" Proto one.

I never have any luck trying to get those rotor screws out. My no name import imact driver just stripped the phillips heads. Is that the driver or the screws? Now I just drill them and remove the remainder. All the rust is under the heads, the rest comes right out.

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[MJD1]

Had the Lisle one and upgraded to the snap on, night and day difference. The snap on also has flats so you can put a wrench on for more leverage.

 

[losvre]

Mac,proto,lilsle,craftman,and most USA ones are all the same just rebadged. Snap on makes there own.

Koken makes the best

I have heard that Vessel one is as good as Koken or better. Anyone has experience with this?

Thanks

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[Cope]

Have a 30 year old Craftsman 1/2", which I retired for a Snap-on 3/8" I got used on eBay. I bought a set of VIM bits and bit holder.

 

[WWheeler]

I never have any luck trying to get those rotor screws out. My no name import imact driver just stripped the phillips heads. Is that the driver or the screws? Now I just drill them and remove the remainder. All the rust is under the heads, the rest comes right out.

They can be a fight, but I've managed to get them all off ever since with just a whack or two with an impact driver. I haven't had trouble stripping them but I do make sure my bit is pristine. I've got many extras. VIM I think are the ones I use.

Most everyone else I know just leaves them screws off, but I always replace them with new and anti-seize the threads and under the heads and have had little to no trouble if I was the last one to work on them.

Mac,proto,lilsle,craftman,and most USA ones are all the same just rebadged. Snap on makes there own.

Koken makes the best

I know for a fact the Lisle and Proto are not the same. Proto doesn't even make a 1/2" AFAIK, and the Craftsman is junk that's definitely not made in USA, at least not for some time now.

The Snap On is probably great, but for a retail price of over $700 it had better be. The only ones going for less than half that on fleabay look like they have been beat all to hell and have long since seen their better days.

Edit: Actually I was mistaken. I was looking at the retail on Snap on's 36 pc set which is $740. There's smaller 1/2" and 3/8" sets for closer to half that and the drivers by themselves aren't all that expensive for Snap On. I might get me a new 1/2" Snap On for $71. Not bad at all.

https://store.snapon.com/Impact-Drivers-1-2--Driver-Impact-1-2-Drive-P632632.aspx

I looked but didn't find a Snap On 1/2dr to 5/16 hex bit adapter for it. Hmmm. I see Proto has one for ~$10 (#J6935).

 

[cmanningjr]

I picked up a one at a flea market for $5. Can't recall the name of it.. Blue metal case and some bits..

Works great on crusty atvs..


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[Tuc04]

If you have an air hammer you could try using a screw knocker (aka old man).

ATI540 is an example part number.

 

[jacked_72]

I've got a couple. The HF one is pretty poor and is Chinese. If you have one of these, take it apart and grease the ball bearings. I have an older Lisle that I picked up for $5 in a pawn shop with bits. It seems to be good quality and sturdy. I also have an old Proto (which came in a tool box I had bought) which to my eye looks exactly like the Lisle. both are 3/8" drive. On both of these, you have to re-index the bit after a hammer hit. The HF has a spring that does it for you. They've all worked fine for my needs. I also bought a set of VIM bits off of Amazon because the HF bits are made of butter. At the time I bought those, they were listed as USA, but they were really Taiwan.

 

[thegroundpounder99]

I have a made in USA Lisle and it's done good by me. I never use the included bits, but to me it wasn't worth the investment in a truck brand.


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[Pontiac787]

I picked up the Proto version from Zoro on BF for $25. Figured it was worth having around for that price.

 

[ChrisLS8]

This tool is a must if you own Honda cars and need to do disc rotor replacement jobs. I had Craftsman (not made in USA) and it was a junk so don't waste your time. I waited for Snap On or Mac Tools set then got a new set from eBay for $50. The hand impact set from Mac Tools has been flawless and competent.

I always just drill em out. Only time I ever use them is for removing the Phillips screws that Nissan uses for the injector caps which I replace afterwards with Allen head

 

[wxm]

I have an old craftsman 1/2 and mac 3/8. Used them all the time, especially the 1/2 drive one. Just last week, I used it to loosen the stubborn release valve on the walker floor jack block; broke two bits, finally got it out.

 

[Hiball]

I've got a Older Buffalo (stupid cheap) and also a Snap on that I bought off eBay for cheap, mainly for the bits. I've beat the Hell out of that Buffalo along with the Snap On and honestly can't tell much of a difference. I've got just about every Snap on bit you can shake a stick at, and Yes occasionally I test there limits and They Lose, but IMO it's best to invest in Bits (ease of warranty) versus the Driver because you will break them if used with any regularity.

If you have the 5/16 adapter these are Solid.

 

[racinfarmer]

Not sure of the COO, but I have a Craftsman one and have yet to meet a screw that it wouldn't remove, but I also almost only do small engine work with it.

 

[wxm]

but IMO it's best to invest in Bits (ease of warranty) versus the Driver because you will break them if used with any regularity...

^^^ what he said...

 

[Super Sport]

the Craftsman is junk that's definitely not made in USA, at least not for some time now.

I'm 99% certain the Craftsman is made in the USA still today. At least "assembled" in the USA. I just picked one up cheap a couple months ago, and wouldn't have bought it if it wasn't.

 

[ge.raam]

Yeah the craftsman one is made in USA. I think the bits are the ones that are taiwan made.

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[WWheeler]

Yeah the craftsman one is made in USA. I think the bits are the ones that are taiwan made.

Hmmm, I have one here somewhere my son bought a year or two ago and I know it doesn't say USA or any other COO anywhere on it. I remember looking for the COO after he showed me the bit adapter to it was not like one I'd seen before. The adapter wasn't solid. I really don't know how to describe it but it looked to me like it might break on the first hit. We even took a picture of it to post with a review he posted. It got tossed into a box and has never been used. I let him use mine instead.

I'll see if I can dig it up ....

 

[Know Wosad]

I have a 3/8" Proto which is alright I guess, but I much prefer my Lisle 1/2" hand impact to it (also USA made). I only bought the Lisle after breaking several bits with the 3/8" trying to get the rotors off the wife's Prelude (more than a decade ago). I've not had that problem with the 1/2". It got those rotors off and I've (ab)used it many more times since. Not even sure I've seen a 1/2" Proto one.

I have the same 2 and the same opinion.

 

[WWheeler]

Yeah there's no COO stamp on this Craftsman driver. Perhaps it said on the blister pack it came in? I don't know as we didn't keep the package and it didn't come in any case or anything to keep it all together.

Like I said, we never used it because the adapter to it was unlike anything I'd seen before. I don't know if that's a defect or intentionally made that way for some reason, but it's sure not like any of my others. It's hollow all the way through and just looked unsafe to me.

 

[Know Wosad]

Actually, rounded like that removes the stress of a sharp corner type broach.

 

[WWheeler]

I'm not talking about the rounded corners. You should be able to see in the pics the piece is cracked up inside and has 4 hollow cavities that go all the way through to the bit end. It's not a solid piece of metal.