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best method cut metal

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antinym

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Jan 19, 2010
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I would say the hole saw should work. Ideally it should be a bi-metal holesaw, then it would last more than once in metal.
 

jerryd68

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The knockout punch will be a much cleaner hole but you have to have access to both side to use it.
 

ddawg16

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Yea....I vote for the knockout punch as well. I'm assuming you have access from the other side since you want to put a hole there.

Greenlee does make a manual knockout...you just crank it down with a wrench...
 

racingtadpole

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Yes the cheapy will probably get it done, most likely trash it but it might work. Keep it cool, and dont force it.

QMax or Greenlee cutter would get it done neater than any holesaw, 1 3/4" isnt too savage on the pocket, but they will cost more than a decent holesaw.

A recipro saw or pnuematic panel saw would also make pretty light work of it but would need some filing to clean it up.

You could also just mark a circle a bit smaller than you need and drill a series of small holes and then chisel it out and clean it up with a file.
 
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scratchedup

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Whatcha working on that the exhaust is going through there? :headscrat

...well I made a slight error.
The WB O2 sensor comes out on top and the wires from it just came to close to that panel.

I want to cut a hole then patch it with a divetted patch custom patch.

made a lot of work for myself.

BTW no access to back side. McMaster-Carr has really nice hole saws for ~ $100. I just not sure what to get.
 

bullnerd

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1)Move the bung/sensor to a more accessible location?
2)Move the sheet metal with a BFH?
 

mds5951

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Aug 15, 2010
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Why not just dent that panel in with a hammer? If done well it will look like factory...it atleast alot better than a dented panel riveted on.
 
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scratchedup

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Mike_C

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Mar 16, 2011
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I had to drill a few holes in the side of my 4runner last year. At the B piller I had to cut through 3 layers on both sides. And the inner 2 layers had cutouts and ribbing where I needed the holes.

I started with a 1/4" pilot hole through all 3 layers. Then I used a Lenox hole saw with a 3/8" hex arbor. The outside cut was easy, the second layer kept locking up the hole saw. I had to use a Irwin hex bit extension on the last layer.

IMG_20120713_202240.jpg


If you are worried about the performance of the hole saw, test it on a piece of scrap sheet metal first.
 

GirlnAgarage

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I know nothing about this stuff but...
My understanding is the ideal is to have 3 teeth in the material during the cutting.

Extrapolating that on a thin metal flat surface it seems that the fewer teeth the better.:shocking:

Its a a great link though.

The difference in type of blades is the size and number of teeth per inch. Bi-metal blades have a finer size and more teeth. Compared to say sheetrock or wood saw with bigger sized, lower number of teeth.

In this case, you want a blade with smaller sized, higher number of teeth. The blade that fits that description is a bi-metal blade.


ETA: Does the O2 sensor/bung have to go in that spot? Consider if you must change it out. If you go with your plan you will need to make the divot deep enough that you have room to unscrew and remove the sensor.
 
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LXCam

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Thats what I said..



Well then, I'm gonna repeat what you said...ha!

Im with the idea of installing a new bung. But if that isn't an option, be ver conscious that right now you're clearancing in a static position. Make sure you open it up enough to allow for engine movement.
 

OccupantRJ

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If you use a hole saw, drill the hole with the bit portion, then change out the drill bit for a smooth rod. This will prevent wallowing the center hole and make for more stable cutting. I keep an arbor set up like this at all times.
 
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scratchedup

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Well then, I'm gonna repeat what you said...ha!

Im with the idea of installing a new bung. But if that isn't an option, be ver conscious that right now you're clearancing in a static position. Make sure you open it up enough to allow for engine movement.

Yes.....this is a big concern. I'm kinda charting new territory for myself here having never done this type of stuff before.

Can you offer any suggestions on how much clearance I need?

I do not want to move bung. This part took many many hours..... And its about finished.

+ I'm sick in the head but I want to fabricate the plug....ive never done this and would like to learn and do.
 
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