Mr onetwo
Well-known member
This really looks like a clever solution for automotive and outdoor wiring especially. https://spliseal.com/
Best Thing Since Sliced Bread?
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WWheeler
Well-known member
Looks interesting and a more reliable fix for weathered splices and connectors BUT that price point puts it way out of anything I'll ever use.
I just about cry over the price of 3M Scotchlok heat shrink **** connectors every time I have to replenish them, but at least I can afford them, and I've not ever had a failure using them for more than 20 years now. The scotchlok's heat shrink and adhesive seems to hold up very well, even undercarriage uses once they are wrapped up with Scotch Super 88, and I like to add a wrap on top of that of Tesa tape if it might rub on anything.
EDIT: I've also managed countless time to use a Scotchlok **** connector in some of the tightest of places, because harnesses don't tend to rub through and meeces don't tend to chew wires to pieces in any of the easy to get to ones, I'm not sure I'd be able to manage to do the same in the same places with that bit of kit.
I just about cry over the price of 3M Scotchlok heat shrink **** connectors every time I have to replenish them, but at least I can afford them, and I've not ever had a failure using them for more than 20 years now. The scotchlok's heat shrink and adhesive seems to hold up very well, even undercarriage uses once they are wrapped up with Scotch Super 88, and I like to add a wrap on top of that of Tesa tape if it might rub on anything.
EDIT: I've also managed countless time to use a Scotchlok **** connector in some of the tightest of places, because harnesses don't tend to rub through and meeces don't tend to chew wires to pieces in any of the easy to get to ones, I'm not sure I'd be able to manage to do the same in the same places with that bit of kit.
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honcho
Well-known member
Many moons ago, while reading Popular Mechanics or Popular Science as a boy in the 1970s, I remember reading about making waterproof wire connections using a plastic straw and some silicon caulk . Slip a piece of straw over the splice and pump the straw full of caulk. I've never used the method but it's stuck in my head. Hot glue would be an alternative to the caulk.
kmacht
Well-known member
Why not just use a piece of shrink tube over a connector instead. This seems like an overly complex and expensive solution to a problem that rarely exists.
Bagherra
Well-known member
Like what was said before, the price of the kit alone would keep me away. And just my luck, id buy the kit and use it one time...
TO ME, the price outweighs the benefit - especially where adhesive lined heat shrink tubing seals just fine (just as good, if not better). It is essentially doing the same thing as that product (hot melt adhesive forms conformal coating around the wiring) with the added benefit of being self contained, the adhesive melts and conforms from the same heat being applied to shrink the tubing, not so complicated, and the end product is more compact and flexible.
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www.awcwire.com
There's cheaper, decent quality, precut versions (and rolls) through Amazon as well.
Adhesive-lined Heat Shrink Tubing | Allied Wire & Cable
This adhesive-lined shrink tubing creates a double wall of protection with a watertight seal caused by the tubing itself and a solidified layer of glue.
www.awcwire.com
There's cheaper, decent quality, precut versions (and rolls) through Amazon as well.
bwringer
Well-known member
That's actually pretty neato. And they have molds to address one of the more common needs you can't always manage reliably with heat shrink, which is to make a waterproof connection for three or more wires (two wires on one side, one wire on the other). Sometimes you can get there with glue-lined heat shrink, but it can be dicey to make sure you get a good seal.
The expense of the tools and materials are somewhere beyond the far end of ridiculous, and sometimes it might be hard to ensure the connector is more or less in the center of the glob.
They call the gluey stuff "potting compound" and honestly a translucent compound would be better in some regards, although it wouldn't look as cool as the shiny black stuff.
As far as using RTV, most formulations are corrosive to copper. You have to get RTV that's specifically made to be compatible with wiring and electronics.
The expense of the tools and materials are somewhere beyond the far end of ridiculous, and sometimes it might be hard to ensure the connector is more or less in the center of the glob.
They call the gluey stuff "potting compound" and honestly a translucent compound would be better in some regards, although it wouldn't look as cool as the shiny black stuff.
As far as using RTV, most formulations are corrosive to copper. You have to get RTV that's specifically made to be compatible with wiring and electronics.
$215 for the kit that would do a LOT of home shop connections seems like a pretty decent deal to me.
The whole setup looks pretty slick. Probably not a ton better than adhesive lined heat shrink but a whole lot better looking. I can see one of these in my future.
The whole setup looks pretty slick. Probably not a ton better than adhesive lined heat shrink but a whole lot better looking. I can see one of these in my future.
The molds seem pretty pricey as well ($80 each) - but they do look nice.
Granted, I'm just a DIY guy, but any time I've done 3 or 4 wire connections with heat shrink tubing, I've just run the necessary wires in parallel to fit within the tube:
----------[- =]=====
Granted, I'm just a DIY guy, but any time I've done 3 or 4 wire connections with heat shrink tubing, I've just run the necessary wires in parallel to fit within the tube:
----------[- =]=====
nadogail
Well-known member
I have found that liquid electrical tape in a can works very well, a brush is attached to the cap on the can.
These solutions absolutely work, but the result is an almost always unprofessional looking connection. For basic repairs this is largely a non issue, but for many something like this is just the ticket.
Like I said, I'm just DIY, but even if I was a pro of some kind, I would think most people wouldn't complain about something that looks like this:
It would look even better if it was encased in a **** connector prior to heat shrinking.
Like I said, I'm just DIY, but even if I was a pro of some kind, I would think most people wouldn't complain about something that looks like this:
It would look even better if it was encased in a **** connector prior to heat shrinking.
I often use much the same method, and I agree; that looks pretty decent given what it is.
The Spliseal setup, however, produces a much cleaner, more OEM looking result. Ring terminals are where I think this product would really shine. The end result looks very similar to 60s and 70s Ford terminations.
Is the juice worth the squeeze? Probably not….but as a hobbiest, it rarely is.
RMERR
Well-known member
Funny I was just searching for something like this a few weeks ago, I'm not a pro either and people doing those pricey meticulous restomods would get more use from it. But I like it! Yes, expensive, but I'm with lilisdad, they are the neatest, cleanest wire joining connectors I have seen. Even if I'm the only one who notices, I'd use it, if for no other reason than "I" like the look. Adding it to my list...
My first thought when I looked at the kits was that the crimpers are ****. I own some channellock 909s. they're fine. But they're not the right tool for professional level crimping of electrical connectors. You need a ratcheting one at least, and really, dies specialized for each connector size. if they don't get that right, they probably don't actually understand the problem space.
I have ratcheting crimpers (manual). I wouldn't mind one of these (Greenlee):
It has swappable dies, puts out 1.5 tons of crimping force, and 10.8v lithium batteries - all for only $1,204 (at least it includes the charger AND it's made in Germany (maybe they use these on Porsches - maybe too rich for BMW though)).
The money is in the dies. With the dies @ $80 a piece, it accounts for 66% of the basic kit. The biggest kit has 6 dies. If bought separately, would account for $480 of the $730 asking price. Wonder who they get to make the dies, or if they make it themselves (CNC?). Must be pretty hefty and precise dies to hawk them for $80 a puck.
Edit - sorry, "molds"
Edit - sorry, "molds"
Wamsutta
Well-known member
Why's that better than regular heat shrink? You can get the adhesive lined heat shrink if you're worried about water proofing.
joe_padavano
Well-known member
Learn how to use a soldering iron and shrink tubing. These overly complex wiring gimmicks are a complete waste of time. I remain amazed by the motorheads who run screaming like little girls if there is wiring involved.
I remain amazed that folks still think soldering is the correct answer for 98% of automotive wiring needs.
This, for me, is not an issue of this solution being “better” than other methods…simply that it yields a very polished final product. I would be lying if I didn’t readily admit that it’s an almost entirely aesthetic issue for me. I like the way the terminations come out.
This, for me, is not an issue of this solution being “better” than other methods…simply that it yields a very polished final product. I would be lying if I didn’t readily admit that it’s an almost entirely aesthetic issue for me. I like the way the terminations come out.
Disagree. If it looks unprofessional it's probably due to someone not taking the time to make it look nice. I frequently have to repair 7 way trailer wiring, if the client won't agree to upgrading to a junction box I can make the splice look very nice (if the customer cares) with just heat shrink. I understand you've mentioned you like the aesthetics of this product more than it's practicality but that is personal taste not objective, heat shrink ad liquid tape is objectively a more cost effective solution.
I agree wholeheartedly on all accounts.
I would be willing to argue that the vast majority of the customers who buy this are far more concerned with the appearance of the finished product as opposed to the most cost effect solution.
And yet it's used in aviation. Or at least has been for 50+ years, unless it was eliminated recently. This is up there with hydrogen embrittlement on the most overblown list of things to freak out about. Even moderately supported, a soldered joint isn't going to fail; they've been used when necessary on automotive wiring harnesses for many decades.
“When necessary…..”
The one to two Y type joint is where I've seen solder used in automotive harnesses. Nothing else needs to be soldered.
It's not used in new designs, and lots of places where it was formerly called for specify using a crimped connector instead. Part of this is solder in general creating a stress point where the solder ends, part is lead free solder making it worse. But there's no actual debate that crimped connections are superior to solder.
It was (is?) used in C130s for 50+ years. How many crashed from solder failures? Again, this "vibration failure" is so overblown. Amphenol connectors typically uses soldered joints- because there's no space otherwise. Did the military do away with them? I doubt it. Where's the DOD study?
No one does more testing than military and aerospace and they've used solder since day one. But it's somehow failure prone in a car that has a massive taped harness with a wiring support every few feet and vibrates .001% as much as a propeller aircraft. Sure. Yes, it takes a little skill to solder something.
And yes, this has been debated a zillion times and no one changes their mind.
And that’s the issue. Little skill required in a ratcheting preset crimper and no companies are going to risk warranty work depending on the skill of assembly workers.
Pretty sure the automotive industry changed its mind a long, long time ago….and it sounds like the aviation industry has done the same.
Solder is used only when there is no other viable mechanical alternative….but no one ever changes their mind.
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^^^This!
I used this exact method to repair a damaged snowmobile trailer harness back in the late 70’s
In my case I was laying on my back in a frozen hotel parking lot in Michigan’s upper peninsula.
I figured it would get my friend safely back to Indiana and it did.
In my mind it was a temporary fix but I found out later my repair was still in use three years later.
richfinn
Well-known member
BMW make some really nice open barrel crimp splices (with a secondary insulation crimp) if you use one and then add a quality adhesive heat shrink sleeve, it makes a great repair very close to original wire diameter.
These things look a bit chunky to me???
These things look a bit chunky to me???
For a simple splice, sure, that’s a great solution. For multiple wire splices, ring, spade, or other termination, however, this represents a very elegant solution.
There are absolutely ways to do this just as effectively, for a lot less money. Many of these methods even look pretty slick. This one, however, is just the easy button. The expensive easy button.
richfinn
Well-known member
Maybe they will sell to DIY car restoration/restomod guys.
When I was involved in building wiring harnesses for UK classic cars everybody wanted original style everything. We just used to buy it all in from Lucas/or good Replica versions from a specialist supplier like Moss, I still have some of the old bullet connectors and crimp/push tool.
Back then (when cars were still cool) nobody cared about waterproofing connections and soldering was still fine (even at the dealerships)
I think you are 100% right. I can see this being a great product for those building and trimming engine and drivetrain harnesses, custom dashes, gauge clusters, etc.
I doubt that I will ever drop the coin for this setup….but it’s tempting and who knows what late night shopping after a drink or two might result in…