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Best way to remove zinc from irregular surface ?

The Cobbler

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I plan on welding some round tube to some plate casters . I need to remove the zinc plating from them, I am welding the area that is depressed .
I am thinking stripping it with muriatic acid so I can get the zinc off both sides .
thoughts?
also wondering about welding outside , without removing the zinc? probably a bad idea ...
I also understand I run a risk of deforming the bearing races , but it is a second pc of metal so I think I will be ok .
I don't want to make up plates to bolt the casters to, as I'm hoping to round the plates on my lathe after welding to keep a clean look



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PCustoms

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Eeek!

Any reason you don't want to use a plate and bolt them on? I have special hatred for welded on casters....

For just a small amount of zinc id weld it outside with a light breeze.
 

Rockable

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When you weld that, it will distort the "race" that the bearings roll in. Maybe a little and not noticeable or maybe more and screw up your caster. I'm in the same camp as PCustoms. Weld a plate on the tube and bolt the caster to it.
 
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dogdog

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^^^
what post #7 say

... heat will distort the bearing tracks... melt the grease on the bearings and make it hard to turn/swirl .. Done that with a mobile base for the bandsaw and some two inch casters. pretty bad idea. to weld it directly on. Weld a plate on tube and mount the caster suggested on post #7 or (use stem caster....and a matching long nut / coupling nut) I tried it without coupling nut for the table legs just 1/8 steel plate as end, the strength is just not there when loaded with weight (heavy stuff on table).
 
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The Cobbler

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I also understand I run a risk of deforming the bearing races , but it is a second pc of metal so I think I will be ok .
I don't want to make up plates to bolt the casters to, as I'm hoping to round the plates on my lathe after welding to keep a clean look
When you weld that, it will distort the "race" that the bearings roll in.
Any reason you don't want to use a plate and bolt them on?
heat will distort the bearing tracks
I have a bunch of new casters that I paid very little for . I am trying to make them something they're not, I'm willing to gamble on 1 or 2 as trials . I was also planning on re greasing the balls ( due to heated & melted existing grease ) if I'm successful in the welding
Thanks for the input everyone
 
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The Cobbler

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put the pipe end into the chuck . I think I can get the tube inside the spindle so I can chuck it close
and if I can't safely chuck it up, an angle grinder will suffice.
having said all of that , if the welding doesn't work out the way I'm hoping,the idea will likely get squashed
 
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MoonRise

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I'm in the NOPE camp.

Too many negatives with your idea.

Welding on zinc is not so good. For you (breathing in the zinc oxide fumes gives you "metal fume fever" in the short term) or for the weld puddle (bad for the weld metallurgy).

Welding WILL distort your plate caster geometry. How much and how badly that will affect the caster operation is unknown. As an example, I once welded some angle iron to some 1/4" thick steel plate with my 'little' MIG machine (240V input but only max 175 amp output) with IIRC .030 solid wire and C25 in short-circuit transfer mode GMAW (not spray mode). Not very big welds, more of some stitch welds spaced apart and not a continuous long bead. The opposite FACE of the plate from the weld beads got ****-back from the weld bead contraction and now has plainly visible, tactile, and measurable 'craters' on that face.

What proposed welding process? TIG won't tolerate the zinc at all and you'll insta-trash your tungsten. MIG will be iffy as far as a quality weld goes. FCAW and SMAW (aka stick) as flux/slag processes will 'tolerate' the zinc coating the most, depending on the specific wire or stick being used.

But you ALWAYS get the best weld when you have CLEAN bare steel (or any metal that you are trying to weld) without any plating or grease or oil or paint or rust or anything that is not clean shiny bare metal.

Acid will remove the zinc. Muriatic acid will remove zinc PDQ, and the fumes will also mess up any steel in the area. And how are you going to rinse and/or neutralize the acid without getting it into the caster tracks/race or the actual caster bearing balls? And the now bare steel after the zinc is removed by the acid will usually rust very quickly right after you rinse the acid off.

Part of the reason that a plate caster has the plate bigger than the caster bearing area is for mounting and for securing the plate 'outside' of the bearing area to make a stiffer and stronger mounting with less wobble all around. If a plate caster could be made with less plate material and still function properly, I'm sure that the caster companies would do so. A stem caster is smaller in the mounting area but is typically NOT as strong or sturdy or durable as a plate mounted caster.

Fixed on using the pipe and sticking a caster on the end of it? Rig up a stem caster into the end of the pipe (see note about having/using a long coupling nut and not just sticking the threaded stem into just a few threads worth of mounting area) or weld a mounting plate onto the end of your pipe and then bolt that to the plate caster.

What and why are you trying to do with your plate caster on the end of a pipe idea?
 

Bert_

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It's just thin electroplated zinc. I would weld that in a heartbeat. Outside with a slight breeze.
 
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The Cobbler

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Here's my project. Sorry for very blurry pics, I will get better one(s)
casters are tacked in place and tested . seems to be working as I hoped .
ended up welding them outside. didn't seem to affect the bearings too badly , they aren't precision casters to start with .
maybe 2 more sets to go , once I'm sure that's what I want . I think the height is a tad too high

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MoonRise

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Plate compactor, partially used bottle of Pine Sol, pallet jack, small fork lift, a welding hood, a plastic fold-up table with added casters on pipe extensions, and an older Weber Silver C.

Party time! :lol_hitti
 
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The Cobbler

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yeah, lots of projects on the go.
Pine sol & plate compactor are related... fixing it up for a buddy, needed bearings & seal in the exciter, the carb was a mess so pinsol in the ultrasonic cleaner fixed that up
 

MoonRise

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I used to have a Silver C, until I couldn't get replacement parts for it anymore.

If your caster mod to the plastic table makes it too high (because of the height added from the caster wheels mostly), you have to figure out what's more important to you. Mobility of the table with the added wheels, in which case you are possibly making mods to the table legs to shorten them or possibly making some sort of platform to stand on when using the modified table. Or ditch the caster option for the table and just pick it up (forklift seems like overkill to pick up the plastic table) and move it where/when you want it moved.
 
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The Cobbler

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the extensions are an experiment to raise the tables and to make them easier to move . they are used as sorting tables in the volunteer warehouse . they are too low for working at standing up , thus raising them higher. they sometimes need to be moved when they are loaded too, thus the casters .This one is a test to see how the mod works, I will get feedback from the volunteers . if they are too high, a simple cut of the tube will rectify that. rather cut them again than they are too short. the extensions just slip on & easily removed to pack .
our stuff is lite , so no worries of overloading them .
 
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The Cobbler

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I used to have a Silver C, until I couldn't get replacement parts for it anymore.
I have spare burners, the grills are stainless and the flavour bars are cut from regular angle . I'm covered for a while . I have an upper model at home that takes same parts it's the one that has the stainless doors on the front
I wasn't aware parts are not available for them
 

MoonRise

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Oops, looks like your model grill is a Silver B (no side burner, I saw the knobs and igniter push button on the side and originally thought that was a side burner which was only on the Silver C).

The Silver models are 20+ years old by now, some parts are still available (for now) but IIRC my frame (not available then or now) was rusting out, the drip tray and bracketry were shot (not the replaceable aluminum drip pans, the main drip tray itself) and most of the guts needed to be replaced too. I didn't feel like fabricating an entire frame, so the grill was retired (discarded) and replaced. By another Weber.

side track: info page on some Weber parts, this is an info page and NOT a supplier. Not mine, no affiliation, objects in mirror may be closer and more inflammable than they appear, etc.

 
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The Cobbler

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was only on the Silver C
I bought one of those for cheap, came with almost new burners with almost full 20lb propane tank for $20 I think it was. I really wanted the side burner
using the side burner on my home grill that I converted to nat gas.
One day I will drill the orifice for the side burner & use it on nat gas too
 
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