Best wrench to remove rounded off nut

[kblee27]

I frequently have to remove rounded off 10mm nut on a battery terminal with space limitation.
If I'm lucky, the closed end will fit, otherwise, it's the more difficult open end.

So far, I've tried with spline, but not very successful, as it keeps slipping.

And each time, this Metrinch save my bacon.

If anyone has other recommendations, I'm all ears.

Thanks.

 

[Strouty]

Not all splines are built the same, I have some that work better than others. I do admire that the wrench you are showing has 6 points instead of 12 for the open end.

 

[saewoody]

Locking vice grips. The nut is already shot and the vice grips won't slip.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[shockwave]

Try a kabo with grooved open end we sell them here as Matco or Carlyle in the us but kabo should have them in Singapore or hammer a 3/8 socket on a 10mm

 

[kblee27]

Try a kabo with grooved open end we sell them here as Matco or Carlyle in the us but kabo should have them in Singapore or hammer a 3/8 socket on a 10mm

Never seen a Kabo here.
Thanks for the 3/8 idea.

 

[kblee27]

Not all splines are built the same, I have some that work better than others. I do admire that the wrench you are showing has 6 points instead of 12 for the open end.

I guess my cheap Crescent spline doesn't cut it.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Small (125mm or 150mm) Knipex Cobra pliers work very well for this kind of thing, if there's sufficient space.

As shockwave said, using a 3/8" can work well too. I have a 3/8" socket i tap onto rounded 10s and it works great.

 

[kblee27]

Small (125mm or 150mm) Knipex Cobra pliers work very well for this kind of thing, if there's sufficient space.

As shockwave said, using a 3/8" can work well too. I have a 3/8" socket i tap onto rounded 10s and it works great.

Thank you.
Cobra is a bit costly, and space is a constrain.
But I'll certainly look at this as well.

 

[Gmonkee]

I have two sizes of the springy nutmuncher wrench here. Like Duck says they grip anything.

The tiny one works great when the hardware is replaced after removal.

That said they get as little use as possible by choice. Destruction is always the last option.

 

[kblee27]

How about the Wera Joker ?
It seems the serrated open end is able to turn rounded off nut.

 

[Gmonkee]

I love the idea of the Joker wrench but they run outside my budget.

Users have reported they do well on damaged fasteners. Cost may be greater than the intended use.

 

[Fedwrench]

An oldie but a goodie, battery pliers.

http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-203.aspx

If you have the space a 1/4 drive turbosocket works outstanding too!!

http://www.toolsource.com/inch-drive-fractional-metric-turbosocket-p-94710.html

EZ Red also makes a ratcheting 8 x 10 mm spline box wrench that has become my favorite battery wrench.
http://www.tooltopia.com/e-z-red-rrw5.aspx

 

[jt777]

Id say cobras to. Or vise grips. Last resort would be a center punch or chisel to spin it.

 

[pauls_workshop]

Get the old US made Petersen vice grips,which are made for this job and many other tough jobs few other tools can handle. The old ones are much much better than any new one for tooth hardness and durability over decades of use. - Paul

 

[SantaAna12]

"Kabo"?

 

[four.cycle]

^ generally it's not a good idea to be hammering on anything attached to a battery terminal. it's pretty easy to knock the terminal itself loose, necessitating replacement of the battery.
don't understand why it took so many posts to suggest the old-school, tried-and-true "battery pliers" which have been around forever:

fancy-schmantzy brand new pair $14:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilde-Tool-...633815?hash=item2a2a3355d7:g:FNEAAOxyyF5ROCP5

used on Ebay from about $8 and up, but be sure you get a pair with good teeth on the jaws.

easy!

...and if the nut is rounded off, why don't you just replace it? how much can a 6mm x 1.0 hex nut cost, anyway?

 

[PSYKO_Inc]

Just yesterday I had a brass fitting on an air compressor that was stuck and rounded off. Clamped the hell out of it with a set of vise grips and got it out. I should really start a bucket for broken fittings, could probably make a couple bucks at the local metal recycling place after I collect a few.

 

[Katodog]

Irwin Bolt-out set and expansion set. Works on a 3/8" ratchet, and so far I haven't had a fastener of any type that I couldn't remove with the Irwins, they work every time. The expansion set fits into the case with the main set, so you don't have to worry about spare tools bouncing around or getting lost.


If you use the right size it'll bite into the nut and as you turn the tool it bites more. Depending on what you're doing, either you break the bolt or you break the nut free. There's no in-between with the Irwins.

 

[Gmonkee]

Think Singapore gents.
As in off the coast of China and well within the European and Asain markets.

Probably not a lot of old US made tools floating around his area.

 

[four.cycle]

Irwin Bolt-out set and expansion set

same thing available in Craftsman. this kit was about $30. might not have enough clearance to use it on a battery terminal, though:



(probably both made by the same outfit.)

 

[CJM8515]

Since I typically drive the AAA battery truck (among other towing and shop related duties). I can tell you the following:

-Most rounded off nuts arent even worth playing with. Unless you intend on saving the terminal somehow it is far easier to either totally replace it or at least take apart the terminal and use the ends that attach to most import and other such type vehicles to a replacement terminal. Doesnt have to be fancy..

-Smacking it with a hammer to loosen it up is sometimes the ONLY way you are getting it off. Some people over tighten the **** out of them and deform the sheet metal and battery post. I lost track of how many Ive smacked off. Give it a good whack and it comes right off. BUT! BUT! Remove the other terminal and tuck it away so it doesnt spark/arch. Otherwise KABOOM! Battery can explode. I have only had one battery ever blow on me btw.

-Battery terminal pliers work REALLY well. Cheapo ones not worth it, spend for at least the channel lock. Vise grips work ok too, but often there isnt enough room and you have to make them super tight. Forget the needle nose type too, dont grip worth a poop.

I dont bother with rounded off or acid eat terminals. If they are bad enough that metal is corroded or so rounded off I just replace them 99.999% of the time. The other .00001% is when you have to use the factory stuff and I generally will walk away from a job if its on the road and tow it instead.

-DO NOT EVER roughhouse a terminal with a fusible link in it (nissan, and some others). Should you arch it, attach cables backwards or whatever your sunk..Only available at the dealer..

 

[papabil]

Hi I have been using metrinch for over 20 years with very good luck. bill

 

[kctyphoon]

If you want a USA made option - maybe this -

Channellock 307 7-Inch Battery Plier Nutbuster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000189FG6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[MShaw]

Or this pair of Snap on battery terminal pliers I have had for over 50 years. Or use a terminal puller so you don't have to loosen the nut at all.

 

[pendragon1998]

Nut splitters?

 

[Gmonkee]

3/8" is 9.5 mm. I have a 2nd rate six point socket welded to a bit of flat bar to cover those corroded nuts. I also carry a 9 mm wrench so none are ever really difficult.

It doesn't have to be fancy or expensive.

 

[kblee27]

Typically this is what I find

A badly corroded terminal and underneath it, usually a rounded off nut.

After cleaning the corrosion salt, I'd tried to save the terminal by removing that rounded off nut and replacing the battery.

Otherwise, it's an extra hour of work for me replacing that terminal, cutting and crimping wires. And with some cars, there are fuses attached to the terminal which would make it very difficult to do, out in the field, like what AAA battery guy would do.

I don't care about saving a rounded off nut. I just want to find an easy to remove it with a tool and replaced it with a new nut.
Usually with all that corrosion, the terminal becomes soft and I've to work carefully, to avoid anymore damage.

I have channellock nutbuster, yes it does work well.
I have Irwin bolt extractor, but I haven't tried using it yet, as the thickness of the tool would be a hindrance trying to fit over the nut where the top of the battery case would blocked it.

Metrinch, spline (if it works) or similar box end type of wrench, with thin walls, would be more ideal, bcuz of space constrain.

I get most of my tools from Amazon as they shipped to Singapore.

Thanks to all who replies.

 

[F124C]

Lots of different battery terminal pullers available, incl. Snap-On CJ92.

OP, OTC 4611 Battery Terminal Puller, is available from Amazon.com.

Al.

 

[kblee27]

Battery puller is fine, but only when you can loosen the damn rounded nut and free it from the death grip the terminal is exerting on the battery post.

 

[Gmonkee]

Coastal cars in Mexico have a similar corrosion problem.

We have clients cars and unless they are buying new parts we try to reuse what they brought in. We could donate tons of battery terminals a year to kindness that will never be repaid.

 

[kblee27]

Coastal cars in Mexico have a similar corrosion problem.

We have clients cars and unless they are buying new parts we try to reuse what they brought in. We could donate tons of battery terminals a year to kindness that will never be repaid.

Exactly.

I tried to save the terminal as much as possible, with careful removal and minimum damage. Usually the culprit is a overtightened and rounded off nut.

When I agreed over the phone; the cost to replace a battery on-site, I do not know what I will find there. Most cases are simple unbolt a couple of nuts, replace and go. But sometimes, massive corrosion takes a lot of work and time.

And some customers don't take kindly to being charged more to replace an extra battery terminal, other than the battery negotiated.

 

[L.Cheapo]

Typically this is what I find

A badly corroded terminal and underneath it, usually a rounded off nut.

After cleaning the corrosion salt, I'd tried to save the terminal by removing that rounded off nut and replacing the battery.

Otherwise, it's an extra hour of work for me replacing that terminal, cutting and crimping wires. And with some cars, there are fuses attached to the terminal which would make it very difficult to do, out in the field, like what AAA battery guy would do.

I don't care about saving a rounded off nut. I just want to find an easy to remove it with a tool and replaced it with a new nut.
Usually with all that corrosion, the terminal becomes soft and I've to work carefully, to avoid anymore damage.

I have channellock nutbuster, yes it does work well.
I have Irwin bolt extractor, but I haven't tried using it yet, as the thickness of the tool would be a hindrance trying to fit over the nut where the top of the battery case would blocked it.

Metrinch, spline (if it works) or similar box end type of wrench, with thin walls, would be more ideal, bcuz of space constrain.

I get most of my tools from Amazon as they shipped to Singapore.

Thanks to all who replies.

If nothing else, its colorful.

 

[four.cycle]

Smacking it with a hammer to loosen it up is sometimes the ONLY way you are getting it off.

^ Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but there have been, and are, many different tools manufactured for removing the cable lug from the battery terminal without damaging the battery (or terminal or lug.)
Among them small pullers of this nature:


There have also been a great many different types of "terminal lifter" tools manufactured by different companies:

Indestro 648:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...ht=battery+clamp+puller+Basically#post5207538

Herbrand 177:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-HER...727631?hash=item4afe66c40f:g:qSEAAOSw2x1XKNZ5

... no shortage of gizmos on the market to get the cable lug off the terminal.

really a bad idea to whack a battery terminal (or the cable lug) with a hammer. I've seen way too many batteries that were otherwise in perfect order rendered useless by beating on the post - there is no kind of glue in the known universe that will seal up that crack that develops where the terminal post comes out of the top of the battery case.

 

[anndel]

Vise Grips since you're going to replace the terminals anyway.

 

[rusty_ratchet]

If you want a USA made option - maybe this -

Channellock 307 7-Inch Battery Plier Nutbuster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000189FG6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

+1

The Nutbuster is a great tool.

 

[gdocktor3]

Irwin Bolt-out set and expansion set. .

Irwin/Hansen makes some of the best nut/bolt removal tools on the market. They are sold/rebadged by almost every big name tool brand in the USA. I own the Irwin bolt out set above, the multi spline screw extractors with Matco name, and the straight flute set. The other set worth buying is the Ridgid model 10 screw extractor. Mine is rebadged Bluepoint.

I guess my cheap Crescent spline doesn't cut it.

I have never used Crescent spline wrenches, but after using newer Crescent socket set, I wouldn't expect much. I have some Kobalt pass thru sockets with spline design and they work ok, but nothing like my Proto or Matco spline ratchet wrenches. The Proto's are Taiwan made, but work really well. The only down side is the handle is a bit thin and sharp. Now, the Matco spline ratchet wrenches are the cats pajamas. They are extremely smooth. Very strong and durable. The spline accepts any fastener and works as a damaged/rounded bolt removal tool. Those things bite into the nut/bolt so well, you usually need to knock them out when finished. I would recommend buying one individual Matco Spline ratchet wrench just for the battery terminals off eBay. You won't be disappointed.

FourCycle thanks for posting that picture of the battery terminal tool. I never knew that's what it was used for. It's just been sitting in my tool box. Awesome. Thanks

 

[kblee27]

Thank you.
I'll have a look at Matco spline.

I just check this particular rounded off nut was in such a bad shape, that none of my 10mm spline will fit. However, two 9mm spline sockets I have from Channellock and Neiko did fit.

Guess I have to invest more in 9mm or 3/8" spline.

 

[four.cycle]

Those things bite into the nut/bolt so well, you usually need to knock them out when finished.

^ This is what happened when when I used that "bolt out" kit pictured above to remove the blade bolt that is in the photo. I had to hold the bolt with a pair of Vise-Grips and beat on the "bolt out" tool to get it off the head of the bolt.

The two "terminal lifter" tools are the ones that immediately came to mind. I believe they were made by a number of different companies in different configurations.
I R&R'd a lot of batteries and I never had to take a hammer to one to get it out.

 

[gdocktor3]

^ This is what happened when when I used that "bolt out" kit pictured above to remove the blade bolt that is in the photo. I had to hold the bolt with a pair of Vise-Grips and beat on the "bolt out" tool to get it off the head of the bolt.

The two "terminal lifter" tools are the ones that immediately came to mind. I believe they were made by a number of different companies in different configurations.
I R&R'd a lot of batteries and I never had to take a hammer to one to get it out.

Usually I unthread the fastener 95% of the way, then remove the bolt out socket. It's easier to pull the socket off while the fastener is being held in place by a stationary object. Other times I've threaded a new nut/bolt on to the fastener once it was removed and gave a quick turn to break the stuck fastener free from the spiral teeth.