So my kids got me a heater for my attached garage for Christmas. I can do the install work easily. I am just not so great at the math. I need to figure out the gas line sizing so I can run it. I have 1 inch lines and my meter is 5psi at 250 qfph. I dont know if I need to run 1 inch to the heater or if smaller is good. The distance is approx 22 feet from the tee in my house with approx 4 90 degree corners. I have a gas water heater, furnace, dryer and stove. Any help I can get would be great.
Big Maxx 50000 install questions
- Thread starter kdt1970
- Start date
D45
Well-known member
22 feet is all?
das_V8
Active member
Just went through this process myself. Look on your water heater, furnace and dryer labels for BTU input rating and report back. What kind of stove (simple 4 burner, or 6 burner double oven, etc)? What size is your line coming into the house? If you google gas pipe calcs you can find simple tutorials on how to calculate your line sizes and ensure you have adequate capacity.
D45
Well-known member
I ran 3/4" for a 70 foot run for my 75k, so could only GUESS that 1/2" would be enough for a 50k
das_V8
Active member
You sure it is 5psi or 0.5" WC? My understanding is most standard residential meters are 0.5" WC at 250 cubic feet of gas per hour at under 2psi inlet.
At that assumed rate, and per the 2015 IFGC, a 30' run (round up from 22') of 1/2" will allow for 95 cf/h (~97k BTU).
But the real question is if your house can supply enough gas to your other appliances and the heater if you tap into the main line.
das_V8
Active member
Thanks for confirming, I'm going to duck out of this now as I admit-tingly have no knowledge of what I would presume a "high pressure" setup? I'm curious though so following along.
I would assume you have enough capacity though, I did it with a 1" main line supporting 80k furnace, 75k water heater, 60k stove and my (new) 45k shop heater. I tapped into my 1" line and ran 60' of 3/4" to 1/2". But you should still run your calcs to confirm.
Ok so first in line stove, 16500 btu, 1/2 inch tee'd from main line (1 inch). Next is house furnace 90000 btu, 1/2 inch tee'd from main line. Next is water heater 40000 btu, 1/2 inch tee'd from main line. Next is dryer 20000 btu, 1/2 inch tee'd from main line. Garage heater will get tee'd in between dryer and water heater.
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So with this sizing chart, it is saying minimum 1/2 inch. Would I be ok to run 1 inch for the two 7 foot legs and then 1/2 inch the last 8 feet to the heater? There will be three 90 degree corners in the first 7 feet, as I need to bump out around a header over my stairs.
TractorJeff
Well-known member
I believe the Inlet pipe diameter on a 50k Big Max is 3/4 of an inch?
Why not run 3/4?
Why not run 3/4?
Ya, I decided on 3/4 for the run then I'll reduce to 1/2 were the shut of valve will go the last 1 to 2 feet. I have all my holes drilled and have mounted my super struts to my rafters. Now the hard part of getting the heater in place. The gas and electric will be the easy part. I will most likely hire someone to do the venting through my roof. I just don't feel comfortable doing that part.
TractorJeff
Well-known member
I remember it from a website advertisement spec sheet so it maybe 3/4" for the 80k or the 120k?
I got it mounted up to the ceiling, that wasnt fun 11 feet up. I also have it wired up.
https://flic.kr/p/RBWymS
https://flic.kr/p/RBWymS
Pruittx2
Well-known member
nice work. I enjoyed the whole process of researching, sourcing, then doing all the install work. Enjoying the heated space better. I've got a few post on my 80k install. Never too old to learn.
D45
Well-known member
Looks close to the wall.......
With the draft hood and a 90° angle, going to be pretty close I would guess
With the draft hood and a 90° angle, going to be pretty close I would guess
It is located near the ridge line in my attic. It is an attached garage it actually has a huge attic. It is around 8 to 9 feet high at the ridge.
You are right. I meant horizontal vent. Horizontal took some trial and error for me to work with the stainless vent kit. Vertical is much easier and cheaper.
toyotadriver
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2010
- Messages
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According to the charts I used, 1/2 will be fine.
D45
Well-known member
Ah ok, the draft hood will add length and then depending if you use a elbow or a clean-out T
Draft hood connector with elbow:
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I've finished the gas, I just need to secure a few spots.
I did a quick test to make sure it all works, it works perfect.
I also need to get the exhaust venting done.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/42048178@N04/shares/X0N43q
I did a quick test to make sure it all works, it works perfect.
I also need to get the exhaust venting done.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/42048178@N04/shares/X0N43q
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D45
Well-known member
Don't you need a drip leg before the connection at, near, or around the heater?
I believe, you only need it for vertical pipe. Which I do have, it's in the pic with the drywall and concrete. You can see its slightly wet from the leak detector stuff. You can see it in these pics.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/42048178@N04/shares/od60WX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/42048178@N04/shares/od60WX
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Pruittx2
Well-known member
You can do it!!
Here's my trap on my install, and then the vent work.
1 video on heater installs by this dude:
and I was on my way.
From my adapter, to 90 to 5ft piece. it was all easy.
Here's my trap on my install, and then the vent work.
1 video on heater installs by this dude:
and I was on my way.
From my adapter, to 90 to 5ft piece. it was all easy.
You can do it!!
Here's my trap on my install, and then the vent work.
1 video on heater installs by this dude:
and I was on my way.
From my adapter, to 90 to 5ft piece. it was all easy.
I really want to, really bad. I am just so worried about making my roof leak.
I installed the proper Utah sediment trap and installed my thermostat. I also pulled it out from the wall from 18 inches to 23 inches.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/42048178@N04/shares/X9586V
https://www.flickr.com/photos/42048178@N04/shares/X9586V
D45
Well-known member
Looks great
Install the vent yourself, it's easy
I did it myself and it doesn't leak
Install the vent yourself, it's easy
I did it myself and it doesn't leak
D45
Well-known member
Connect the draft hood and the elbow or T vent
Hang a plomb from the ceiling to the center of the vent hole opening and mark it
Use a drill bit and then a hole saw
I have a good install thread of my heater install, from start to finish
It's easy for the vent, and I've never done this before
Hang a plomb from the ceiling to the center of the vent hole opening and mark it
Use a drill bit and then a hole saw
I have a good install thread of my heater install, from start to finish
It's easy for the vent, and I've never done this before
Pruittx2
Well-known member
Super easy,, just like that video shows,, mount unit,, mark roof,, I used a heat gun, to soften the shingles to work with them,, cut, mark,, drill,, jig saw,, Viola!
I used this boot that some questioned, but it's a self sealing, B-vent safe piece that worked good, installed easy, and is leak free.
I searched the codes for all work in my area,, then did it all, Ran gas line, 20a dedicated circuit, safety switch, thermostat, hung unit, and did all vent work.
When the Propane guy came, he complimented my workmanship, then hooked up gas, leak tested all pipes and did first fire up, then adjusted flow rate and pressures.
Saved hundreds on install labor costs, learned a bit,, and have the satisfaction of a job well done.
I used this boot that some questioned, but it's a self sealing, B-vent safe piece that worked good, installed easy, and is leak free.
I searched the codes for all work in my area,, then did it all, Ran gas line, 20a dedicated circuit, safety switch, thermostat, hung unit, and did all vent work.
When the Propane guy came, he complimented my workmanship, then hooked up gas, leak tested all pipes and did first fire up, then adjusted flow rate and pressures.
Saved hundreds on install labor costs, learned a bit,, and have the satisfaction of a job well done.
D45
Well-known member
I would say you save more than hundreds
Some people pay $2000-$3500 for the heater and install
I think my total cost was under $800
Some people pay $2000-$3500 for the heater and install
I think my total cost was under $800
D45
Well-known member
50K only needs 3"
I cant seem to find out how the fire stop is properly installed. Do you cut out the drywall the full size or just the diameter plus the 1 inch air space.
And what is up and what is down.
American Metal Products 3 in. Firestop Support
https://www.homedepot.com/p/American-Metal-Products-3-in-Firestop-Support-3FSPH/202266996
And what is up and what is down.
American Metal Products 3 in. Firestop Support
https://www.homedepot.com/p/American-Metal-Products-3-in-Firestop-Support-3FSPH/202266996
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Pruittx2
Well-known member
the piece on the right is screwed to your ceiling facing down with pipe going up thru it. That ring it has is the built in 1in clearance. I have I think a 3/4 gap around that. And the ring thing is an added brace
