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Black & Decker Workmate

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wolfcj

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Apr 24, 2017
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599
I'm not sure of this, but I was under the impression that the 225 was a smaller model, with the jaws being a couple of inches shorter than those on the 300.
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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I agree with Wolf. They will almost certainly not fit.

You didn't show the damage but it its just a little separation and de-laminating as seen in your edge pics, I've glued and clamped that type of damage with good success.

For larger areas use a spreader plate, and always use wax paper so squeeze-out doesn't glue the clamp/spreader to the jaw. I also press by hand and wipe excess before clamping
 
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MrDayne

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Jul 14, 2017
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46
Location
South Florida
The Type E latch has stops at three different heights. The manual calls the two lower ones "intermediate safety positions" and includes a diagram that marks those as "Wrong" and the highest position as "Correct". There's no further explanation of the design.

Ah yes there’s 3, my mistake. By feel, the top position is very sturdy by comparison. The lower ones have a bit of play with mild body weight/pressure on the boards.
 

wolfcj

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Apr 24, 2017
Messages
599
Yes, the lowest position is very insecure. The middle one feels and looks a little less solid than the top position, but it still seems as though it would be safe to use. It almost seems as though they designed it to have two usable positions, but then decided there was some reason to discourage that use.

It sure would be great if someone who was involved with the Workmate development in the 70's were still around and could jump in here and fill in a lot of holes in the history.
 

Bigbandguy

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Oct 18, 2014
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I agree with Wolf. They will almost certainly not fit.

You didn't show the damage but it its just a little separation and de-laminating as seen in your edge pics, I've glued and clamped that type of damage with good success.

For larger areas use a spreader plate, and always use wax paper so squeeze-out doesn't glue the clamp/spreader to the jaw. I also press by hand and wipe excess before clamping

I have a 225 in the shop so I will measure. I can always fab new jaws if necessary but as you say the de-lamination can probably be glued. I need to get it really cleaned up and get that part in here. Will be glad to get this one back to first class condition. It doesn't show in the pics but even the bench stops are stored on it pushed in from the bottom of the jaws. Only thing missing was that spacer.
 

wolfcj

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Outlawmws

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Seller claims B&D, but I've never seen anything like it. The "tool rails" seem to be missing one, or else poorly placed for the obvious place to stand from the perspective of working vise cranks. Maybe the user left one off or misplaced one?
 

andyvh1959

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Feb 15, 2020
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Green Bay WI
Just bought a 550 from a seller on craigslist, $35. Generally good condition, although the top sections are somewhat warped, a bit open on the edges as if the humidity of summers had caused wood to spread.
 

wolfcj

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Apr 24, 2017
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599
I'm pretty skeptical of the B&D claim. Many sellers give incorrect brand names. I wish it showed the working side, where the cranks are, in case there's a label there.

I don't see anything wrong with the rails or cranks. It's designed for three-way pressure, with the vise screws at 120-degree angles. You would stand on the side opposite the camera and have access to all three handles. With more than one dog in each jaw you would actually get more than three gripping points on the work, depending on its shape.
 

wolfcj

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Apr 24, 2017
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599
Some differences between my type E and my type 2.

The screw has a dust shield built into the nut on the type E. ...

I've been thinking of that as a guard against damage to the vise screw, from an errant saw or such. On the Type 2, the revised design of the brackets for the vise mechanism provides that protection.
 

Bigbandguy

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I agree with Wolf. They will almost certainly not fit.

You didn't show the damage but it its just a little separation and de-laminating as seen in your edge pics, I've glued and clamped that type of damage with good success.

For larger areas use a spreader plate, and always use wax paper so squeeze-out doesn't glue the clamp/spreader to the jaw. I also press by hand and wipe excess before clamping

You are definitely right about the 225 vs the 300. the 225 is 24 inch and the 300 is 29 inches wide. Unfortunately there is quite a bit of saw damage on the back rail so I will probably fab a new one. I looked closer at the one remaining back spacer and it appears to be a wrong one so I will order two new ones . This is a good heavy unit and the rest of the hardware is good so definitely worth fixing up. Thanks for all the info.
 
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y'sguy

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May 1, 2010
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Tulsa, Oklahoma
wolfcj, I always check in here, and just wanted to say Thanks for always keeping this thread going, along with a bunch of other people.
I would have ever thought that several years ago I would have wanted a workmate. Much less two! But this thread is to blame!

I will write this again, I never thought much of Workmates when they first came out, but years later after reading this thread I became interested, then obsessed. You buy one and you find out you can get another. My obsession has resolved, although I'm still secretly on the look out for a light blue model or the earliest versions, all-aluminum. Just for fun.

And of course Thanks to the originator abstanmaria
 
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nadogail

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Jan 23, 2009
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Coronado, CA
IMHO, the Copy Righted name Workmate has become the generic descriptor of all of the "Knock Offs" just as many refer to all facial tissues as Kleenex.
 

MrDayne

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Jul 14, 2017
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46
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South Florida
I've been thinking of that as a guard against damage to the vise screw, from an errant saw or such. On the Type 2, the revised design of the brackets for the vise mechanism provides that protection.

Agreed, dual purpose. Damage guard and also helps keep dust/chips out of the threads. You can see the accumulation of dust in my pics, that would otherwise clog the threads.

BTW, just waned you to know your resource page is a great read, thanks for compiling the info for us.
 

wolfcj

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Apr 24, 2017
Messages
599
Something for fans of trivia and paper ephemera -

I've added to my H-frame site what I believe is the very first appearance in print of the U.S. version of the Workmate. It's the 79-001 Type 1 from a 1975 Black & Decker catalog, printed 10/74. It's on my Documents page under Brochures/Catalogs.

If anyone has other similar early (or earlier!) material, I would love to include it on my site.
 

DaveT

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Feb 14, 2019
Messages
238
Location
St. Louis area
Wolf: Thanks for your continued support on your H-Frame site. The user documentation is very helpful. After your last response to me I read the Type E manual and seen what you were referring to about the tab sticking out on the middle of the step being used to hold down the unit while lifting the table up. I found it works best for me if I have the unit flat on the floor with the legs folded in and then step on the tab and lift up, as opposed to how the manual shows doing it with the unit slightly lifted on that edge.

Looking through the manuals the only two positions that are generally referenced are the “sawhorse” height and the full “workbench” height. I have found the following height to be very useful. I’m currently using it to support my workbench glue up in the vertical position. The workbench is weighing in at 225lbs plus the clamps and it is very stable.

attachment.php
 

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wolfcj

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Yes, I meant to mention earlier that I don't follow the manual's instructions for raising the Type E, but I do use the tab exactly as you describe. I tend to lose my balance simultaneously standing on one leg, holding the front of the Workmate up, and trying with my other foot to find the tab underneath that I can't see!
 
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Outlawmws

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Very possible Dennis, but if so, well executed!

I like that travel box WorkMate... I haven't seen one in my travels, but would definitely pick one up, if not stupid $$
 

Dennis Leigh Henry

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Apr 8, 2013
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South Central, IN USA
Yeah.. agree.. well executed if so. Specialized rig for something that's for sure.. probably a tool maker involved regardless.. :)

I paid $20 for mine.. it has a few marks in the top, but nothing substantial... and other than grime that I cleaned off.. NOS.
 

PelicanPines

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Apr 30, 2014
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New Jersey, USA, Earth, My own reality
Dennis, I have that box too. I modified mine with clamp rails... hit me if you want to see a picture.

Could have sworn I posted this once... but could not find it anywhere... so please excuse me if it's a rerun.

I did add an album to my profile outlining what I store inside this... etc etc.

View media item 104993
 

btrnuthatch

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May 3, 2012
Messages
205
Location
SF Bay Area
My 4th H frame, can't stop, Type 2 for $25 in nice shape, the best of the 4. That's my excuse for buying it.
 

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Outlawmws

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Nice score and great price!

Glad to see someone here got it. Someone sent me the link, but I passed for distance and I have 3 already.
 

ElJefe

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Virginia
I was doing some work around the house and I stumbled across a Workmate 79-001 Type 8 that was my father-in-law's. Once I realized what i had I decided to fix it up. So, today, I disassembled it and repainted all the pieces. I purchased 3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood for the vise jaws and ordered a new hardware kit. I still need to drill the holes in the vise jaws, but I don't have a drill press, so I'm looking for a drill guide. I'll post pics when it's done.
 

wolfcj

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Apr 24, 2017
Messages
599
I recently acquired another vintage Workmate accessory from the 1970's, one that I don't think has been discussed here before, the WM110 Universal Extender Arms. These are a UK accessory that was never sold in the U.S. They were originally advertised in the UK alongside the UK-model WM325 Workmate that was sold in the U.S. as the 79-001 Type E. They allow you to clamp some items that are larger than the top of the Workmate.

I've added a page about them to my H-frame site, with many more photos of the arms in use on my Type E.

I've been busy on many other pages also, including the pages for the Type 6, 7, and 8 where I have photos of new acquisitions that are in excellent condition. The Type Study spreadsheet is up to version .96 now and has even more information than before. The Documents page has more Workmate instruction manuals, catalog appearances, etc. I also have the beginning of suggestions for replacement feet that I will be expanding later.
 

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Dennis Leigh Henry

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Apr 8, 2013
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South Central, IN USA
I recently acquired another vintage Workmate accessory from the 1970's, one that I don't think has been discussed here before, the WM110 Universal Extender Arms. These are a UK accessory that was never sold in the U.S. They were originally advertised in the UK alongside the UK-model WM325 Workmate that was sold in the U.S. as the 79-001 Type E. They allow you to clamp some items that are larger than the top of the Workmate.

I've added a page about them to my H-frame site, with many more photos of the arms in use on my Type E.

I've been busy on many other pages also, including the pages for the Type 6, 7, and 8 where I have photos of new acquisitions that are in excellent condition. The Type Study spreadsheet is up to version .96 now and has even more information than before. The Documents page has more Workmate instruction manuals, catalog appearances, etc. I also have the beginning of suggestions for replacement feet that I will be expanding later.

Nice score....
 

y'sguy

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May 1, 2010
Messages
1,305
Location
Tulsa, Oklahoma
I recently acquired another vintage Workmate accessory from the 1970's, one that I don't think has been discussed here before, the WM110 Universal Extender Arms.


Hey! those are very cool! Now I am thinking how I could make something similar to function the same for our workmates, GJ style.
:rocker:
 

ElJefe

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Virginia
What size are the grip holes? I drilled them at 3/4" but they don't seem to be big enough? Do I need to go to 2cm?
 

btrnuthatch

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Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
205
Location
SF Bay Area
I bought these replacement feet on eBay. 1 3/8" diameter so larger than original. Can't say anything about longevity. Wanted rubber for "non skid" properties. The 5/16-18 bolt is integral to the base surrounded by the rubber. Advertised as Made in USA. I'll add a nut to tighten in place.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/252329024366
 

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