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Black & Decker Workmate

Jonathankamm

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I hope with something added to the marking to make it clear that it is not an original top with original factory marking. We don't want to confuse future owners.


Yes. Working on best way to word that. Maybe actual manufacture date and refurbish date. Along with model and type. Thinking of using letter punches to stamp it into wood.
 
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y'sguy

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Great job on the restore and the tops.

My suggestion would be to design your own rubber stamp and stamp it near the type no. with your date of resto. Or you can also have made metal stamps custom that you could heat up and burn into the wood.
 

Jonathankamm

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Great job on the restore and the tops.

My suggestion would be to design your own rubber stamp and stamp it near the type no. with your date of resto. Or you can also have made metal stamps custom that you could heat up and burn into the wood.

I’m very frugal. Custom stamps and branding irons are more expensive then the letter punch set I got at a garage sale. :)
 

wolfcj

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This doesn't quite qualify for the "Most Creative Damage to the Jaws" award, but it's close. It can't be functioning quite right.
 

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wolfcj

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Thinking about this overnight -- turning the rear jaw around would increase the maximum jaw opening by about an inch or so. That's the only reason I've come up with to do this intentionally. I just sent a message to the owner to see what I can find out.
 

fullthrottle24

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Here is one of my Type 4’s. It had original rubber feet, however I replaced them due to dry rot.
 

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Jonathankamm

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Thinking about this overnight -- turning the rear jaw around would increase the maximum jaw opening by about an inch or so. That's the only reason I've come up with to do this intentionally. I just sent a message to the owner to see what I can find out.

They could have been holding something that needed a single layer jaw instead of the double. Maybe original owner had taken the top off then the guy selling it put it back on not knowing how it goes.
 

y'sguy

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wolfcj,
Okay so here are my two Workmates.
The first shown does not seem to have any markings or stampings on the bottom.
The second does as shown in the pics.
I use them on projects, usually outdoors when there is lots of belt sanding and such. Very handy for me-Never thought so in the days when they first came out. Thought they were way to gimmicky.

 
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wolfcj

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Here is one of my Type 4’s. It had original rubber feet, however I replaced them due to dry rot.

Thanks. Which feet did you replace, the ones at the ends of the legs or the ones that screw into the frame? I can't tell from the picture.

I would also like to know about the parts of the vise mechanism that I can't see in the photo. Does it have the longer threaded rods to drive the jaws, like in this photo, or the earlier shorter ones, and is the "nut" that carries the rear jaw made of plastic, like the photo, or the earlier metal style?
 

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wolfcj

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wolfcj,
Okay so here are my two Workmates.
The first shown does not seem to have any markings or stampings on the bottom.
The second does as shown in the pics.
Your first one is a Type 2. It's too bad there's no readable production code stamp.

For the second one, the Type 4, could you post photos of it from front and side, so I can check out its components? FYI, it was manufactured August 15, 1977. Thanks.
 

Jonathankamm

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Now I have a matching pair. Will probably make matching tops at some point. But here I took the old top sanded it, rescrewed and painted it. It turned out ok. These will be for me. So I’m sure they will get beat up.
 

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fullthrottle24

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Thanks. Which feet did you replace, the ones at the ends of the legs or the ones that screw into the frame? I can't tell from the picture.

I would also like to know about the parts of the vise mechanism that I can't see in the photo. Does it have the longer threaded rods to drive the jaws, like in this photo, or the earlier shorter ones, and is the "nut" that carries the rear jaw made of plastic, like the photo, or the earlier metal style?

I replaced the 4 feet for saw horse height, upper feet . Plastic carrier nut and 8 inch of threads on rod.
 

wolfcj

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That's exactly what I hoped you would say! Thanks so much!

Yours is the earliest Type 4 I've identified, produced July 6, 1977, so it helps me confirm that the known Type 4 features were present right from the start.
 

AceofSpad3s

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Is there anything particularly compelling about the older cast aluminum ones opposed to the stamped steel ones? I would assume weight but how much difference?
I can't be bothered to try and read the whole thread, is there any type study or dating information on the 425's? I'm clearing out most of my workmates and just keeping my blue Canadian 425 since it's the best full size one I got, sure hate how much it weighs though compared to the others.
 

wolfcj

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A 79-001 Type 4 with steel H-frame weighs about 1.8 lbs. more than a 79-001 Type 4 with aluminum H-frame. However a 79-001 Type 1 with aluminum H-frame weighs yet another 1.7 lbs. more than the 79-001 Type 4 with steel H-frame.

In other words, there are other differences that influence the weight more than the material used for the H-frame.

I have not owned any newer models such as you mention, but I have read many comments from owners. There is a common theme to their comments that the newer ones feel lighter and more flimsy than the 79-001.

If you feel that your 425 is the best one, that may very well be because it weighs more.
 

AceofSpad3s

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It is less due to weight and more due to physical condition. I really liked the old x frame I had because it is light and quick to set up but I modified a screw driver handle because I couldn't get a replacement for the broken one, and it was missing two feet. I'm tempted to keep the brazilian 200 after getting it down from the rafters since it's a lot less of a pain with the spring loaded latches opposed to the buttons on the 425, as well as the smaller size and weight, but it's also missing a foot and the retainer to keep one of the feet from flopping around is gone,
I have 2 bench top ones, but really never used them, I haven't used my tiny hobby one, but it'd be worth so little and takes up so little space that I think I'll keep it too.
The 425's feet don't have the mechanism to break, they are a tight friction fit I believe, nothing missing and it's in very good condition aside from some scorch marks.
If all the full sized ones were in as good as shape as the 425 I'd probably be hard pressed to part with them, but I'd rather have one nice example and the extra space and money so I can use it if I find other ones that are either older or are in better shape.
 
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wolfcj

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I can't quite figure out which Workmates you have. If we stick only to floor-standing ones, I think you described three of yours as being "full sized": 1) the "x-frame", 2) the 200, and 3) the 425. If the x-frame is what I think it is, then the only one of those that I would call "full sized" is the 425. The vintage 79-001's would definitely be heavier than the two smaller floor-standing models you mention.

If you're going to look for a 79-001 to buy, you will find mostly Type 2's and Type 4's. Others show up less often than those two. You can read about them on these two pages:
https://h-frame.weebly.com/79-001-type-2.html
https://h-frame.weebly.com/79-001-type-4.html
The variation in weight between them is minimal, between about 30 and 32 pounds. How much does your 425 weigh?

I don't know of any comprehensive type study on any other Workmates (such as the 425) other than mine for the 79-001. This seems to be true even for European models, because I have received comments from European owners wishing for one.
 

Jonathankamm

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I can't quite figure out which Workmates you have. If we stick only to floor-standing ones, I think you described three of yours as being "full sized": 1) the "x-frame", 2) the 200, and 3) the 425. If the x-frame is what I think it is, then the only one of those that I would call "full sized" is the 425. The vintage 79-001's would definitely be heavier than the two smaller floor-standing models you mention.

If you're going to look for a 79-001 to buy, you will find mostly Type 2's and Type 4's. Others show up less often than those two. You can read about them on these two pages:
https://h-frame.weebly.com/79-001-type-2.html
https://h-frame.weebly.com/79-001-type-4.html
The variation in weight between them is minimal, between about 30 and 32 pounds. How much does your 425 weigh?

I don't know of any comprehensive type study on any other Workmates (such as the 425) other than mine for the 79-001. This seems to be true even for European models, because I have received comments from European owners wishing for one.

The 425 is still sold at Home Depot. You could get stats there. I have a 400 and a 550. They are all similar in that they are vertical clamping models. They are not constructed as well as the 79-001 type 2’s. I think my favorite all around models are the early Type 2’s with the 4 ribbed step (adds stability) and aluminum crank handles. Those have all the best features and the best constructed in my opinion.
 

AceofSpad3s

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The bench models were the 79-020 (type 1 and 2 maybe) and 79-025. After looking at pictures the x frame was the 150. The scale isn't the most accurate but the 425 was 35, and the 200 was around 21 which was a bit shocking. The 150 I think was near the same height as the 425, but the 200 is a bit narrower and shorter than the 425, none of them are the same height which is bothersome which is partially why I am clearing some out.
I was using full size to differentiate between the bench models and floor models I just assumed the size differed with the model number, the 400 series being larger than the 200's etc.

When did they switch from using just the 79-***+type like in your study, to also using the 1xx,2xx,4xx numbers as well on the later models? Is there any particular logic to the later numbering system, I see from 85 up to 550 with many increments of 25 in between without much difference.

Not necessarily just looking for a 79-001, but the one thing I really don't care for is all the plastic in the handle gear mechanisms of these tools, especially due to it's tendency to get brittle with age. So after looking at your type study I sure wouldn't mind finding a type 3 or older because of the metal handles and nuts. Never seen any of the models in your type study in person though, only the numbered ones like 400, etc. Are the 79-001's the same height as any of the newer models?
 

wolfcj

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The last year for the 79-001 was 1982. In 1983 the 300 replaced it, and was accompanied by the smaller 100 and 200, as well as the larger 400.

The 79-001's didn't even match each other in height, so I have no idea what others they might match up to.

The Type 2's are the most common 79-001 and not hard to find used, on Craigslist and similar sites, as well as estate sales, garage sales, etc. They're usually cheap enough that you could consider just buying one to try out.
 

McBrownie

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The last year for the 79-001 was 1982. In 1983 the 300 replaced it, and was accompanied by the smaller 100 and 200, as well as the larger 400.

The 79-001's didn't even match each other in height, so I have no idea what others they might match up to.

The Type 2's are the most common 79-001 and not hard to find used, on Craigslist and similar sites, as well as estate sales, garage sales, etc. They're usually cheap enough that you could consider just buying one to try out.


At one point, I had a 350, which was a “flip jaw” model. Smaller and lighter than a 79-001 with extra functionality.
 

Jonathankamm

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Any info when Craftsman workmates started showing up. I know Black & Decker and Stanley own Craftsman and many other tool companies now. I do see what looks like 79-001’s but with the Sears Craftsman name on them show up now and then.
 

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wolfcj

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The ones I have seen have had components from the 79-001 Type 6, 7, and 8, somewhat mixed together. That would give you the time range.

The one you show looks like a Type 8 with MDF top.

Here's one with a Brockville production code stamped toward the left end of the photo and the Sears model number 900.288764 stamped toward the right. The code is indistinct but I think it starts with 015 which is consistent with the Type 7/8 features I see.
 

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Jonathankamm

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I broke one of the pivot screws from the aluminum “H” frames. So I had to replace it. They are a unique shoulder bolt that I couldn’t find anywhere so I had to come up with something. The bolt is available without the shoulder so that’s a start. Then I found a threaded tube that had the proper outside diameter. I cut off a small section and ran a countersink in one end. That tapered it so it fit the head of the bolt. It worked out pretty good. I don’t plan on needing them often. But I made a couple extra just incase.
 

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wolfcj

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I have another request for help from owners.

If you already checked the bottom of the jaws for a production code but couldn't find one, can you try looking on the bottom of the metal step for a code, like the attached photo?

I had asked one owner for the code from the jaws, and I was amazed when he sent me back the attached photo from the bottom of the step! Amazed, first, that he was so dedicated to inspect the entire Workmate for the code, and second, to learn that there could be one on the step!

It's interesting that the style of the stamp is different, with TY8 indicating Type 8.

(I'll add an even weirder thing, the Workmate in question also has a production code on the jaws, and it's different! I'm still trying to learn more about it.)
 

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fartymarty

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I broke one of the pivot screws from the aluminum “H” frames. So I had to replace it. They are a unique shoulder bolt that I couldn’t find anywhere so I had to come up with something. The bolt is available without the shoulder so that’s a start. Then I found a threaded tube that had the proper outside diameter. I cut off a small section and ran a countersink in one end. That tapered it so it fit the head of the bolt. It worked out pretty good. I don’t plan on needing them often. But I made a couple extra just incase.

Nicely done! :thumbup:
 

Jonathankamm

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I have another request for help from owners.

If you already checked the bottom of the jaws for a production code but couldn't find one, can you try looking on the bottom of the metal step for a code, like the attached photo?

I had asked one owner for the code from the jaws, and I was amazed when he sent me back the attached photo from the bottom of the step! Amazed, first, that he was so dedicated to inspect the entire Workmate for the code, and second, to learn that there could be one on the step!

It's interesting that the style of the stamp is different, with TY8 indicating Type 8.

(I'll add an even weirder thing, the Workmate in question also has a production code on the jaws, and it's different! I'm still trying to learn more about it.)

Nothing on mine.
 

RTM

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Had a little bit of luck on the garage sale front today, scored a few WorkMate accessories. The NIB Workmate GripMate, and a pair of the orange swivelgrip dogs.

IMG_20201010_110640-X2.jpg
 

wolfcj

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I've noticed a surprising number of Gripmates still in their boxes sold on eBay over the last few months. Possibly an original owner bought them with a Workmate, put them away and never used or forgot them. Some go for as much as $30 apiece and $50 a pair.
 

AceofSpad3s

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For some reason I feel like I have 2 of those gripmates despite never seeing them in maybe half a decade, I don't think they had the orange inserts for the top though,probably in the blackhole known as my rubbermaid storage containers that are on high shelves.
 

wolfcj

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Which model types came with the power strip?

In the U.S. it was the Workmate 79-004. In Canada, it was the Jobmate 3980. The Jobmate had a unique feature--a pair of removable metal covers for the jaws--but was otherwise basically the same as the 79-004.
 
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