slowtwitch73
Well-known member
The 300 has the info on bottom of metal step: "221 3TY1" and "79033"
The other WM says "Type-2". The other markings are unreadable.
The other WM says "Type-2". The other markings are unreadable.
Black & Decker Workmate
- Thread starter abstamaria
- Start date
OK, hopefully this image of the 3 parts of the handle will help:
The crank arm and shaft are cast as one piece and the plastic handle pops onto the tapered shaft and the cap clips onto the solid end of the handle shaft.
I had figured the cap must be clipped on but hadn't realised the shaft would be solid at the end, as you can of course see a hole in the back of it. I had figured I could probably push the cap off the end of the shaft by knocking a drift in from behind but wasn't making any progress so upped the power and that's how the shaft sheared off the crank part!
Now I've taken one apart I can see that trying to get the end cap off in one piece to re-use will be almost impossible as it is really tight on the shaft but I'm pretty hopeful those parts I've ordered on eBay will be the right size as they seem to measure up pretty closely which would mean I can then remove the rusted end caps without worrying about how they look once I get them off.
Hope this helps.
I'm a little late here, but the 'cap' that held the handle to the crank arm shaft is a variation of a Palnut or axle push nut.
Some examples:
https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=axle+nut
https://apexfasteners.com/fasteners/palnutreg-fasteners
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Pal-Nut-34VA13
It's a push-on fastener that typically has to be destructively pulled or pried off. The 'fingers' push on to the shaft/axle and then because they are angled they don't let the cap/nut come off.
Usually quick to install, so used by the OEM (just push it into place and done). Not readily removed for repair or replacement of parts, so a pain to deal with from that standpoint.
You can either try to find a correct diameter push nut or you could drill and tap a small hole in the shaft end and install a screw through an appropriately sized washer to hold the handle in place. I'd probably use a little threadlocker aka LocTite (use the blue removable stuff, no need for the red 'need heat to remove' variety!) on the screw if you go that route.
As to the possible repair of the now broken shaft from the crank arm, you can maybe try some epoxy or maybe some of the low-temperature zinc-aluminum brazing repair rods (Alumaloy is one 'brand' name https://www.alumaloy.com/ ) and braze it back in place.
At a quick glance, that crank arm piece kind of looks like an injection molded piece. Probably made of a zinc-aluminum alloy (Zamak or similar).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zamak
Hmmm, thinking about that, if it is made (cast or injection molded) from Zamak or similar, you might not be able to use the brazing repair rod approach (as the brazing filler rods melt at about the same temperature as the actual part you are trying to repair) and may have to use/try solder instead.
FYI, the handle shaft is hollow because it didn't need to be solid from a strength standpoint and from a casting/molding standpoint they want/need the wall thickness of the entire casting/molding to be pretty similar. A completely solid shaft here to a thin-walled arm would lead to bad casting/molding shrinkage at the transition.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
So this took almost 2 moths of patience but I brought this one home this evening - a Type E 78-001 in pristine condition - if used at all VERY lightly! It looks like it just was pulled from he box: I found 2 TINY fly specs of paint that popped off with a fingernail... other than that a little dust:
Wolf, I looked for date codes - didn't see any?
Wolf, I looked for date codes - didn't see any?
Attachments
That's amazing, possibly the all-time Workmate 79-001 find! Looks like the only way it could be better is if it was in the box.
So give us the details. What's its story that explains the fact that it was never used and that it was kept so clean? Where did you find it and how much did it cost? This isn't the one that was on Facebook in California is it?
As for date codes, I don't know of any way of dating type E's. They weren't made at the Brockville, Ontario factory, so they aren't stamped with Brockville production codes. In general, they are from early 1974 to fall 1974
So give us the details. What's its story that explains the fact that it was never used and that it was kept so clean? Where did you find it and how much did it cost? This isn't the one that was on Facebook in California is it?
As for date codes, I don't know of any way of dating type E's. They weren't made at the Brockville, Ontario factory, so they aren't stamped with Brockville production codes. In general, they are from early 1974 to fall 1974
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slowtwitch73
Well-known member
Sweet.
btrnuthatch
Well-known member
Most excellent!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
No real story -the guy I got it from was second owner and wanted it gone as he had not space (Apt) and worried it would get stolen if left out (his Motor cycle HAD been stolen)
Yes probably the FB one. 20 min from my house. I paid $80 as it wasn't moving at their asking price, and I wasn't budging.
As to the WHY of its condition, I suspect it was bought as a gift, set aside, as a "Gimmick" and never used...
Yes probably the FB one. 20 min from my house. I paid $80 as it wasn't moving at their asking price, and I wasn't budging.
As to the WHY of its condition, I suspect it was bought as a gift, set aside, as a "Gimmick" and never used...
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slik560
Well-known member
My kids bought me one of these for Christmas many...many....years ago. I still have it and use it, but I'll have to take a look for any markings. The metal on mine is black, so it can't be THAT old.
DaveT
Well-known member
WOW that thing is an awesome find
and only 20 mins from your house. That’s incredible. It’s good to know that it went to someone who appreciates it.y'sguy
Well-known member
Awesome score, Outlaw. Great that you were able to find it so close to home.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
Gives me hope that there still some folks out there that don't do internet 'research' when selling used goods.
I long for the old days when deals abounded... now even if you are out in the boonies every nutter is asking high Ebay prices.
I long for the old days when deals abounded... now even if you are out in the boonies every nutter is asking high Ebay prices.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Black metal still goes back a few decades. Are the risers sheet metal, or aluminum?
slik560
Well-known member
Sheet metal. I need to drag it out and put up a photo or two. It's stuffed behind my hose reel under the workbench at the moment. 
In case anyone else is looking for a 79-001 Type E, here are three for sale right now that look pretty good. I don't think any of them has all of its feet, and the cheapest one doesn't have the blue dogs, but they are priced pretty reasonably.
Wisconsin
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4108246162520283
South Carolina
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/129509849010120
Florida
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3770217896407326
Edit: The one in Florida started out at an eBay-like $300. After a month it went down to $200, followed over the next several weeks by $175, $150, $125 and the current $120.
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y'sguy
Well-known member
Dang! these are all reasonable for what they are. Not any are close to me. except I could probably swing the one in Florida with my Nephew.
But I already don't need them. Haha! As I have good condition working WM's that I grabbed to satisfy my GJ obsession the first time around.
It is some one else's turn!
But I already don't need them. Haha! As I have good condition working WM's that I grabbed to satisfy my GJ obsession the first time around.
It is some one else's turn!
fartymarty
Well-known member
WOW that thing is an awesome find
I hope I never find one. I'd be afraid to use it.
So other than collect-ability/antiquing what is so great about the early models? Are they that much lighter in weight than the newer stamped steel ones?
For that matter, which model has the most use and versatility (and durability too should be considered) over the other models for those that actually use it for projects vs tool objects de art.
or...
I think my Workmate 400 is the best model ever made for versatility and work use, so ...why am I wrong? (<---that should get some comments, eh?
)I have a Type E that's almost as nice as Outlaw's, and I use it regularly. I'm careful with it, but not afraid.
I have posted several times comparing the Type E with the later Types of the 79-001, as follows:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6620892&highlight=trip#post6620892
(Note that I understated the weight difference here: The Type E is 6 to 9 pounds lighter than the Type 2, depending on which configuration of the Type 2 you compare it to.)
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8539554&postcount=1473
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8769573&postcount=1798
I realize that this doesn't address your question about the Workmate 400. I haven't owned or used any Workmates produced after 1982, so I can't comment on them.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
The 400 is versatile and the vertical swing jaw is occasionally handy. BUT it's effing HEAVY. I used my 200's 10-20X as often as the 400. In fact the 400 sat under a DP for about ten years.
As Wolf mentioned, the Es are LIGHT. I like that; they are also wider IIR (my 400 has been gone a number of years, along with the 200's) I like light and therefor more easily transported. The legs of the E's are more out of the way than the later steel versions for transport.
They are all awkward to handle, and setup for the lower legs. but it's not like I set them up and take them down every 5 min. being lighter it easier to setup the E's and other lighter versions than the heavy versions.
I have a 550 as well that was given me, and its an even heavier unit then the 400 - so far its never been setup... it has the extra thief top piece, so makes a better "workbench", but again heavy, awkward, and more effort to setup.
I'm still debating - Use? (certainly not heavily) or preserve - this one really belongs in a museum... Its that nice. My other E has some battle damage, so no qualms there, but if I find another "user" this one WON'T get used...
I also have two type 2's wit aluminum risers one almost as nice as this E, the other the jaws are shot and is a candidate for jaws suitable for a welding/Fab stand. Then there is an early metal riser version that uses the good Marine Ply jaws. (transition piece?
)
Ah yes, the jaws, the Marine Ply jaws are WAY better than the later particle board jaws, and when doubled at the business end, better gripping jaws...
As Wolf mentioned, the Es are LIGHT. I like that; they are also wider IIR (my 400 has been gone a number of years, along with the 200's) I like light and therefor more easily transported. The legs of the E's are more out of the way than the later steel versions for transport.
They are all awkward to handle, and setup for the lower legs. but it's not like I set them up and take them down every 5 min. being lighter it easier to setup the E's and other lighter versions than the heavy versions.
I have a 550 as well that was given me, and its an even heavier unit then the 400 - so far its never been setup... it has the extra thief top piece, so makes a better "workbench", but again heavy, awkward, and more effort to setup.
I'm still debating - Use? (certainly not heavily) or preserve - this one really belongs in a museum... Its that nice. My other E has some battle damage, so no qualms there, but if I find another "user" this one WON'T get used...
I also have two type 2's wit aluminum risers one almost as nice as this E, the other the jaws are shot and is a candidate for jaws suitable for a welding/Fab stand. Then there is an early metal riser version that uses the good Marine Ply jaws. (transition piece?
)Ah yes, the jaws, the Marine Ply jaws are WAY better than the later particle board jaws, and when doubled at the business end, better gripping jaws...
I'll add a couple of other comments about the Workmate 400 that I'm reasonably sure of even without direct experience. If you know otherwise, please correct me.
The 400 and other models from the mid-1980's onward have more plastic parts than the 79-001 and others from the 1970's. For example, it's fairly common for the plastic leg latches to break.
The 79-001's up until the introduction of the Type 4 in mid-1977 have eight leveling feet. From that point on, the leveling feet were gradually replaced with non-adjustable feet, so the 400 has fixed-height feet at all eight locations.
The 400 and other models from the mid-1980's onward have more plastic parts than the 79-001 and others from the 1970's. For example, it's fairly common for the plastic leg latches to break.
The 79-001's up until the introduction of the Type 4 in mid-1977 have eight leveling feet. From that point on, the leveling feet were gradually replaced with non-adjustable feet, so the 400 has fixed-height feet at all eight locations.
Mr. Wonderful
Well-known member
Before GJ I would have looked at one of those for sale and laughed. Now I get depressed thinking I'll never find one of that model let alone that nice at any price! Well done sir!
fartymarty
Well-known member
You are correct. The leg latches are plastic but mine haven't broken yet and I've not needed leg levelers as yet..if it wobbles I either shift it a bit or just put more weight on it with my left foot. Yes the 400 is a heavy pig, that's why I put castors and a hand friendly handle on mine. I do wish the orange plastic thread nuts were made of metal.
To be clear my remark about my 400 was tongue in cheek just trying to get more discussion onto the usefulness discussion and perhaps dampen the collectable discussion. It seems we have those on GJ that collect ball peen hammers and vises and various odd wrenches of one brand or another, which is fine.... but I thought the original reason for this thread was because of the workmate's usefulness, versatility, and surprisingly under-ratedness* (* elsewhere, not here on GJ of course) and not so much it's collect-ability and enshrinement. Guess I'm wrong. Again.
I thought I saw a spreadsheet that compared many aspects of the different models including the weights, now I can't find it..spread sheets yes ..weights no. Hopefully someone can direct me to it.
For the record my WM 400 including 4 plastic dogs, included bottom board, 2 castors, 1 metal handle, 8 pop rivits (holding the 8 rubber leg caps on), an assortment of dried glue droppings and some cobwebs & sawdust, weights exactly 39 lbs and 0 oz.
I once saw where Popular Mechanics said the WM425 was "light" and only weighed 26 lbs...I thought WOW!....I checked with B&D and PM was off by over 10 lbs....just can't trust what you read anymore. 
I don't get it—what's going on here?
You said:
"So other than collect-ability/antiquing what is so great about the early models? Are they that much lighter in weight than the newer stamped steel ones?"
I linked directly to three of my earlier posts that explain in some detail the pros and cons of the usability of the early models. Then I added another message with two more points on usability. No mention of collectibility in any of them. Outlaw responded with additional comments on usability. And then your only response about usability was to dismiss two of my valid comments because they aren't important to you? Instead, you switched back to talking about collectibility again?
You said:
"I hope I never find one. I'd be afraid to use it."
I responded that I use mine all the time.
Sounds like you're the one who is emphasizing collectibility over use.
There are many of us who use tools who deeply appreciate the design that goes into the best of them. The original Workmate was a breakthrough invention and an award-winning example of industrial design because it both does its job wonderfully and is inspiring to look at. I absolutely love having Hickman's original design in use in my home and shop. There's nothing whatsoever wrong with enjoying the aesthetic characteristics and the history of a tool that you use. It's also okay that the aesthetics and the history make it collectible and increase the monetary value. I feel lucky that we are still able to buy nice examples of the 79-001 Type E for as little as $50 and I wouldn't hesitate to pay much more for a nice one if I didn't already have one.
You said:
"So other than collect-ability/antiquing what is so great about the early models? Are they that much lighter in weight than the newer stamped steel ones?"
I linked directly to three of my earlier posts that explain in some detail the pros and cons of the usability of the early models. Then I added another message with two more points on usability. No mention of collectibility in any of them. Outlaw responded with additional comments on usability. And then your only response about usability was to dismiss two of my valid comments because they aren't important to you? Instead, you switched back to talking about collectibility again?
You said:
"I hope I never find one. I'd be afraid to use it."
I responded that I use mine all the time.
Sounds like you're the one who is emphasizing collectibility over use.
There are many of us who use tools who deeply appreciate the design that goes into the best of them. The original Workmate was a breakthrough invention and an award-winning example of industrial design because it both does its job wonderfully and is inspiring to look at. I absolutely love having Hickman's original design in use in my home and shop. There's nothing whatsoever wrong with enjoying the aesthetic characteristics and the history of a tool that you use. It's also okay that the aesthetics and the history make it collectible and increase the monetary value. I feel lucky that we are still able to buy nice examples of the 79-001 Type E for as little as $50 and I wouldn't hesitate to pay much more for a nice one if I didn't already have one.
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On the topic of weights:
The spreadsheet you are looking for is part of the type study at my "H-frame" website, whose link can be found in my signature. The spreadsheet has accurate weights for twelve different configurations of the 79-001, and it's the only place these have ever all been documented. Just click on "Workmate 79-001 Type Study" in the menu and you'll see the link to the spreadsheet on the left side of the page.
In 1975 at least three different reviews (including Popular Mechanics) and one B&D catalog mistakenly listed the weight of a 79-001 Type 1 as 24 pounds; you can find copies of all four of these on the Documents page at my site. 24 pounds was the approximate weight of the 79-001 Type E which had just been replaced in 1975 with the heavier Type 1, so the mistake was somewhat understandable. I would be very surprised if they made this same mistake for the 400 eight years later.
I find that my threshold of discomfort for the weight of a Workmate is just about 31 pounds. When I have to carry a 79-001 Type 1 or an early Type 2, I very quickly want to put it back down. The Type E is a breeze to carry and the other 79-001's are quite tolerable.
The spreadsheet you are looking for is part of the type study at my "H-frame" website, whose link can be found in my signature. The spreadsheet has accurate weights for twelve different configurations of the 79-001, and it's the only place these have ever all been documented. Just click on "Workmate 79-001 Type Study" in the menu and you'll see the link to the spreadsheet on the left side of the page.
In 1975 at least three different reviews (including Popular Mechanics) and one B&D catalog mistakenly listed the weight of a 79-001 Type 1 as 24 pounds; you can find copies of all four of these on the Documents page at my site. 24 pounds was the approximate weight of the 79-001 Type E which had just been replaced in 1975 with the heavier Type 1, so the mistake was somewhat understandable. I would be very surprised if they made this same mistake for the 400 eight years later.
I find that my threshold of discomfort for the weight of a Workmate is just about 31 pounds. When I have to carry a 79-001 Type 1 or an early Type 2, I very quickly want to put it back down. The Type E is a breeze to carry and the other 79-001's are quite tolerable.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
On the Leveling feet, I sort of agree, it's "nice to have" not a necessity. As you mentioned its easy to shift a bit and get it stable. BUT having the leveling feet can be important if you are doing something that requires exact level.
I've used my WM to build and modify drive shafts including balancing them - two workmates with a 'knife edge" set dead level can be used to roll them adn verify balance. Leveling feet would have made that a LOT easier...
Collectability: I collect and use tools. Mostly they are all users, even if duplicates abound (and they do) its rare that it's a "Shelf Queen" and not used. When it is, its generally because its something that simply has no reasonable use for more modern equipment.
I have a hanging vial that holds exactly 1/10 of a gallon. It was designed for model T's to check fuel consumption. It has a 3 way valve to: Fill, Stop and use the main tank, and use the measured fuel in a road test. Have I used it? No. have I thought bout it? Hell yes! Just to see it work! It could also be used with a static engine for gallons per hour checking....
I "collect" (Use) Old Coleman gas lanterns - Every so often I find a NOS one (and so do fellow Collectors) - there is always a minority that say "Light that sucker up! it was meant to be used! I would!"
While true, how many un-fired NOS lanterns are there, vs. thousands, if not millions of Users? Sure you can fire it - and the value just plummeted to the value of a used lantern. This could be as much as 10X or more depending on the lantern. With many average lantern prices now going north of a C-Note, is it worth possibly 900 bucks (Or more) to be the first one to light it? Not to me.
Point being, it takes all kinds, and many of the collectors that are here you dismissed are ALSO heavy users of tools. I don't think I know of one that ONLY collects, and doesn't also use. They may not be a full time mechanic (I'm not) but many are like me heavy hobbyists. I've built race cars, converted vehicles from 2WD to 4WD, and almost always modify any vehicle I own in some way. I no longer have the remotest idea how many engines I've rebuilt... I also have done most all common levels of carpentry, from simple framing to cabinets and other finish work, adn even making furniture. most recently I've been in a kick making custom camp boxes with finger jointed edges. All using a 7" 1936 tilting table, table saw. I use my tools but i use them when and How I need to. unless I NEED this new E, its not needed with 5 other full size W/M's to chose from.
I had no idea this was this pristine a WM when I went to get it. I expected a nice user. That even the feet show no wear is telling... So I'm thinking and will probably box it up to protect it until I decide what I want to do with it. It may wind up in a museum! (I wonder if the Smithsonian has workmates?)
I've used my WM to build and modify drive shafts including balancing them - two workmates with a 'knife edge" set dead level can be used to roll them adn verify balance. Leveling feet would have made that a LOT easier...
Collectability: I collect and use tools. Mostly they are all users, even if duplicates abound (and they do) its rare that it's a "Shelf Queen" and not used. When it is, its generally because its something that simply has no reasonable use for more modern equipment.
I have a hanging vial that holds exactly 1/10 of a gallon. It was designed for model T's to check fuel consumption. It has a 3 way valve to: Fill, Stop and use the main tank, and use the measured fuel in a road test. Have I used it? No. have I thought bout it? Hell yes! Just to see it work! It could also be used with a static engine for gallons per hour checking....
I "collect" (Use) Old Coleman gas lanterns - Every so often I find a NOS one (and so do fellow Collectors) - there is always a minority that say "Light that sucker up! it was meant to be used! I would!"
While true, how many un-fired NOS lanterns are there, vs. thousands, if not millions of Users? Sure you can fire it - and the value just plummeted to the value of a used lantern. This could be as much as 10X or more depending on the lantern. With many average lantern prices now going north of a C-Note, is it worth possibly 900 bucks (Or more) to be the first one to light it? Not to me.
Point being, it takes all kinds, and many of the collectors that are here you dismissed are ALSO heavy users of tools. I don't think I know of one that ONLY collects, and doesn't also use. They may not be a full time mechanic (I'm not) but many are like me heavy hobbyists. I've built race cars, converted vehicles from 2WD to 4WD, and almost always modify any vehicle I own in some way. I no longer have the remotest idea how many engines I've rebuilt... I also have done most all common levels of carpentry, from simple framing to cabinets and other finish work, adn even making furniture. most recently I've been in a kick making custom camp boxes with finger jointed edges. All using a 7" 1936 tilting table, table saw. I use my tools but i use them when and How I need to. unless I NEED this new E, its not needed with 5 other full size W/M's to chose from.
I had no idea this was this pristine a WM when I went to get it. I expected a nice user. That even the feet show no wear is telling... So I'm thinking and will probably box it up to protect it until I decide what I want to do with it. It may wind up in a museum! (I wonder if the Smithsonian has workmates?)
The Victoria and Albert Museum in London has a Workmate Mark 2.
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1194713/workmate-mark-2-workbench-workbench-hickman-ron/
That's the first Workmate manufactured by Black & Decker after they reached an agreement with Ron Hickman. It is nearly identical to the 79-001 Type E.
The V&A bills itself as "the world's leading museum of art, design and performance".
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
I like the older wishbone tables for their design and ties to Lotus, but the slightly newer tables are far more user friendly imo. I only need one height and have never used the adjuster feet.
fartymarty
Well-known member
Thanks, clearly it was your spreadsheet I was looking to re-find...I could have found a different one, but now I'm not sure. Perhaps yours wasn't loading right before in my older version of Excel....but yes that's the one I was looking for.
So if you don't mind rehashing something that you've probably explained before....is there a reason why the type 5 weighs so much less than the other steel/aluminum hybrid models?
Popular Mechanics is just continuing their fine tradition of getting the weight wrong. From 2015--> https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/a15872/black-and-decker-workmate/
fartymarty
Well-known member
Well I seem to have stepped on some toes here, through ignorance or poor word choice. Sorry. I'm not trying to do so.
I'm assuming collect-ability because so many only post photos of the Aluminum H frames and except for the very early all aluminum models, they just don't seem that much better than the all steel models. If one goes through this thread there are a lot more photos of aluminum ones just purchased and discussion of model differences than are of actual usage. You have to go through a lot of posts before you see a WM with some work actually sitting on it. I should probably start a thread "What have you done on your Workmate today" and then just shut my typing trap here. That's what I'll do here anyway...just keep quiet for awhile. Thanks for all the info and you have a great website and I can see a lot of work and attention to detail has gone into it.
I explain that on the page for the Type 5
https://h-frame.weebly.com/79-001-type-5.html
(Spoiler: It's lighter gauge steel.)
The spreadsheet can't really be more than a quick guide, or maybe an index of sorts, to the differences. The spreadsheet alerts people to the differences, but can't explain them without becoming ridiculously large and complicated. I added footnotes to it to explain a few things, but there's a limit to how much of that can be done and still remain effective. That's why the spreadsheet refers people to the website for complete details on each Type.
paredown
Well-known member
I can honestly say one of the few things that got left in mom's basement when I started moving around that I miss was my first generation Workmate (and the few good tools I had purchased)... It was supremely useful for small projects...
She passed away last year--my siblings cleaned up the house (and I couldn't participate because I would have had to quarantine for 14 days because of Canadian COVID restrictions)--but I honestly considered asking them to ship it in the original box--never mind the cost of shipping...
I just acquired a plastic one--I haven't tried to use it--but looking at it made me miss the original even more...
(Just looked at your family portrait--it was either a Type 1 or Type 2 (latter seems more likely.)
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Marty, the earlier part of this thread has a lot of posts for different ways to use them. I don't post up every time I bring one out, (I just did so last week) as I have a hard enough time remembering to take in process pics of projects I DO want to document.
Heh, My first post in this thread I still only had the 2 200's and the 400! 9 YEARS ago!
One of mine:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4406335#post4406335
Hmm I scanned through a bunch more of my posts in the thread looking for the post where I discussed in depth the many uses of of a work mate for power bench tools mounted on plates with cleats on the bottom for a workmate to clamp to - Maybe it was in another thread?
In any case its a ply base, a strip just thicker than the WM jaws, add a larger piece so if the the jaws vibrate loose, it doesn't go too far... I either use T nuts (recessed) or a carriage bolt from underneath (also recessed) to mount the toll
I've made these into a standard size and made part of a shelving unit I made years before, so I can rack them when not in use, This saves me bench space and I can still use many different bench tools with minimal setup.
tools I've so mounted include:
An Arbor press
A 1/2" think aluminum place with mounting for all my reloading presses and gear, (all holes helicoiled)
A picture frame trimmer
Several grinders,
Chop and miter saws
My manual antique miter box
I have a couple plates ready for use, just need the next tool...
At some point I want one of the "small" bench top WM's built into a bench so I have a "tool station" for all that work, Just not happening in the current garage...
Heh, My first post in this thread I still only had the 2 200's and the 400! 9 YEARS ago!
One of mine:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4406335#post4406335
Hmm I scanned through a bunch more of my posts in the thread looking for the post where I discussed in depth the many uses of of a work mate for power bench tools mounted on plates with cleats on the bottom for a workmate to clamp to - Maybe it was in another thread?
In any case its a ply base, a strip just thicker than the WM jaws, add a larger piece so if the the jaws vibrate loose, it doesn't go too far... I either use T nuts (recessed) or a carriage bolt from underneath (also recessed) to mount the toll
I've made these into a standard size and made part of a shelving unit I made years before, so I can rack them when not in use, This saves me bench space and I can still use many different bench tools with minimal setup.
tools I've so mounted include:
An Arbor press
A 1/2" think aluminum place with mounting for all my reloading presses and gear, (all holes helicoiled)
A picture frame trimmer
Several grinders,
Chop and miter saws
My manual antique miter box
I have a couple plates ready for use, just need the next tool...
At some point I want one of the "small" bench top WM's built into a bench so I have a "tool station" for all that work, Just not happening in the current garage...
fartymarty
Well-known member
Thanks Chris!
So one might assume that is a desirable model based on weight until one knows the reason for the weight savings.I agree.
Bazsm
Well-known member
Apologies I missed your reply, appreciate your thoughts - they're also called 'starlock' on eBay and the samples I got were soooo close to being perfect
I've since found another old WM for parts and that has goodish handles so my problem is sorted but maybe the destruction of one of my handles will help someone in the future....
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I have been looking for an aluminum H-frame for a long time. I already have a Type 79-033 (also known as WM 300) and 2 WM 125s. Today, I went to an estate sale and came away with the following:
Important numbers are 79-001 Type 2, 64643. I paid $10.85. The wood jaws are toast. I am very pleased with the condition of the metal bits. So far I have found a bit of rust on one folding leg. All parts seem to be intact and working. I am looking forward to cleaning up this addition and making new jaws. Can anyone confirm the thickness of the jaws on the originals, both the single thickness part and the reinforced (double thickness) edge?
I also picked up 2 pair of the gripmates for an additional $10.85. There was a third box, but it was missing the plastic bushings. These 4 clamps appear to have never been out of the boxes.
Important numbers are 79-001 Type 2, 64643. I paid $10.85. The wood jaws are toast. I am very pleased with the condition of the metal bits. So far I have found a bit of rust on one folding leg. All parts seem to be intact and working. I am looking forward to cleaning up this addition and making new jaws. Can anyone confirm the thickness of the jaws on the originals, both the single thickness part and the reinforced (double thickness) edge?
I also picked up 2 pair of the gripmates for an additional $10.85. There was a third box, but it was missing the plastic bushings. These 4 clamps appear to have never been out of the boxes.
The thickness of the jaw material is not at all critical; you can make it whatever you want. Yours is the 11/16" 9-ply birch. You can find this in my Type Study spreadsheet, link can be found just below the heading "How to Recognize It" on this page:
https://h-frame.weebly.com/79-001-type-2.html
The 13-ply with the hard orange finish was very slightly more common on Type 2's.
And you answered your own question about the reinforced (double thickness) edge. It is indeed double. However, you can do whatever you want here also, make the edge even thicker if you want, or go with just a single-layer top as was used on the Type 3 and 5-9.
Yours is from the production period when the scratch guards were being discontinued:
https://h-frame.weebly.com/blog/the-least-known-feature
I don't see any in your photos, but I'd like to know if there's any "ghost" mark where they might have been.
https://h-frame.weebly.com/79-001-type-2.html
The 13-ply with the hard orange finish was very slightly more common on Type 2's.
And you answered your own question about the reinforced (double thickness) edge. It is indeed double. However, you can do whatever you want here also, make the edge even thicker if you want, or go with just a single-layer top as was used on the Type 3 and 5-9.
Yours is from the production period when the scratch guards were being discontinued:
https://h-frame.weebly.com/blog/the-least-known-feature
I don't see any in your photos, but I'd like to know if there's any "ghost" mark where they might have been.
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TractorJeff
Well-known member
The other day I picked off the neighbors trash pile a Dual 29" Model No. 79-001!
All I had to do was tighten the screws for the adjustable Jaw!
Today I looked at the one I bought in the mid-90's and it only says "Workmate 200" on it.
Do I like them?
Heck Yes!
I saw one at a guys house and thought it might be handy. In the mid-90's I was living in an apartment and found it very useful. I always wanted a second one, then I saw the "Dual 29" on the junkpile so I grabbed it!
All I had to do was tighten the screws for the adjustable Jaw!
Today I looked at the one I bought in the mid-90's and it only says "Workmate 200" on it.
Do I like them?
Heck Yes!
I saw one at a guys house and thought it might be handy. In the mid-90's I was living in an apartment and found it very useful. I always wanted a second one, then I saw the "Dual 29" on the junkpile so I grabbed it!
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
wolfcj:
Thank you for the clarification on the top thickness. I have never seen a worse case of plywood delamination and am missing some plys, so did not want to trust any measurements. I could not find any evidence of the scratch guards on mine.
Thank you also for all the effort you have expended in keeping this thread alive and compiling information on a truly great tool.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
You're going to really like them. I got a set at a garage sale just because they were really cheap, but thought I'd never really use them much. I can't count how many times I've used them.
Tommy
AceofSpad3s
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2014
- Messages
- 1,808
Sold off a bunch a while ago, my x frame, brazilian 200 and the two bench top units. A few weeks ago I found another type 7 like the one I found on the side of the road last year, I was debating on whether to get it or not, but since I got it down to $10 I did because I will finally have two of the same height to use as saw horses. I found some saw horse brackets at a yardsale last year, but I really hate them since since they take up so much space, so I just took them apart for the wood and will probably just throw them for free on the curb with some other stuff.
It had no bench dogs (never really use them anyway) some top delamination and is missing the rubber feet when the legs are folded. I wasn't planning on it but yesterday I took the top off, cut lines where the lamination was still good, then pried off the 2 layers that were loose and reglued them. I tried pulling the rubber pieces off the one I found in the trash, but since there is just a screw going into thin sheet metal, it wouldn't hold on the new one, maybe I should get some leveling feet and try to make that work? It's not a big deal, but having both at the same height while the legs are folded would be useful. I've been meaning to do it for probably years, but since I've sorted things out I am going to make some bottom shelves for all of them and some hardware to mount bench cookies on top.
I wish I could find a broken one for free, I was thinking of making a dedicated one for welding instead of just putting a 1/4 steel plate on a piece of plywood. I've seen some where people still use the jaws and just cover them with metal, but I was thinking of pulling everything off and mounting a plate directly to the top of the section of the frame where the screws are, removing the work surface, mounts for it, jaw screws etc to get it as thin as possible since it's already getting a bit of a challenge to store the 3 full size ones I have already.
It had no bench dogs (never really use them anyway) some top delamination and is missing the rubber feet when the legs are folded. I wasn't planning on it but yesterday I took the top off, cut lines where the lamination was still good, then pried off the 2 layers that were loose and reglued them. I tried pulling the rubber pieces off the one I found in the trash, but since there is just a screw going into thin sheet metal, it wouldn't hold on the new one, maybe I should get some leveling feet and try to make that work? It's not a big deal, but having both at the same height while the legs are folded would be useful. I've been meaning to do it for probably years, but since I've sorted things out I am going to make some bottom shelves for all of them and some hardware to mount bench cookies on top.
I wish I could find a broken one for free, I was thinking of making a dedicated one for welding instead of just putting a 1/4 steel plate on a piece of plywood. I've seen some where people still use the jaws and just cover them with metal, but I was thinking of pulling everything off and mounting a plate directly to the top of the section of the frame where the screws are, removing the work surface, mounts for it, jaw screws etc to get it as thin as possible since it's already getting a bit of a challenge to store the 3 full size ones I have already.
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I have been making good progress on the restoration of my type 2.
Lately, I have been working on gluing up surplus oak flooring to make new jaws.
The original ones had the extra strip attached with spiral nails. Since I did not have these available, I decided to use screws. My first attempt was with sheetrock screws, which did not work, even with a pre-drilled hole. So, I switched to 1" pocket hole screws which are much stronger and work fine.
That brings me to my latest and hopefully last issue. If I have measured correctly, both the groove in the edge of the jaws and the notch are 1/4 inch deep by 1/2" wind slots with a 108 degree angle between the sides. My original jaws were badly de-laminated and chewed up. Can anyone confirm my measurements? Next, I can't see a way to create these cutouts on a table saw that only has a 45 degree blade tilt. So a router bit seems to be the solution. But, I have not been able to source the correct router bit.
Anyone know of a source for the correct router bit? What have you done to solvew the problem?
Lately, I have been working on gluing up surplus oak flooring to make new jaws.
The original ones had the extra strip attached with spiral nails. Since I did not have these available, I decided to use screws. My first attempt was with sheetrock screws, which did not work, even with a pre-drilled hole. So, I switched to 1" pocket hole screws which are much stronger and work fine.
That brings me to my latest and hopefully last issue. If I have measured correctly, both the groove in the edge of the jaws and the notch are 1/4 inch deep by 1/2" wind slots with a 108 degree angle between the sides. My original jaws were badly de-laminated and chewed up. Can anyone confirm my measurements? Next, I can't see a way to create these cutouts on a table saw that only has a 45 degree blade tilt. So a router bit seems to be the solution. But, I have not been able to source the correct router bit.
Anyone know of a source for the correct router bit? What have you done to solvew the problem?
