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Blacksmith makes a Cutting board (round 2)

DoghouseForge

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May 11, 2013
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374
Location
Lakeland, Fl
Well,

Practice makes perfect is a stretch, but practice does make you better. I posted this to show that the tips I got on the first boards post really paid off! Thanks to everyone who gave me advise and helped to iron out different issues!

heres the link to the first attempt if you havent seen it...definitly a different experience this time... http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202160

Started with somewhat true wood this time. Cutt it into equal size pieces. The darker wood is Oak and the lighter is Popluar. The later photos have some small scrap pieces of Padauk and Purple heartwood added for some cool edge detail and color.

Its all been cut with the table saw so that the endgrain will be the top of the board.



This is the layout I came up with. I was inspired by the cutting board that was shared with me on the first post. Its no where near as detailed but I thought the geometry was cool. Its funny because at the time i was focused on the dimond patern the oak creates and keeping it lined up..I didnt see the simplicity of the rectangles untill it was finished. lol



It needed a jig to compress it this time since it wasnt a solid square. I cut some strips to fit the pattern. It still needed a couple shims as well but this worked "ok"...



glue on all sides and used titbond III waterproof ultimte wood glue. This was a great tip.. not only will the board last better with water contact, but the set time is longer so you can get alot more accomplished.



Assembly, working quicklly but carefull not to make as big a mess as last time. The sanding off of the wasted glue is annoying...



Compresed under and over this time ... it made a substaintial difference in the bow, but Im going to make a few changes next time to get it even flatter. I think assembling on a board with partchment paper will not only eliminate me gluing it to the folding table (yup) but it will alow me to put a second board on top and clamp it from both the sides and the top and bottom.. that should keep it nice and flat.
( the red bottle of glue in the background is not the kind you want for this, the bottle you want is green, that's the kind i used last time, i didnt have any issues but it set up very quickly and is apparently not waterproof)



cut down and sanded, I used the table saw to do the edging and the 3x21belt sander to work out the little bow I had. Then progressive grits from 36 to 1500...


I like the oaks grain pattern...its funny, in hindsight I see another opportunity for board number three. I can arrange not only the geometry of the colors but also the direction of the grain for added interest.. Looking forward to that.


This is probably my favorite part...Its when all the work sanding finally pays off as the sealer brings out the depth of what you have created.


one coat of sealer dried and wet sanded to 1000grit


Finished !!!!

Two coats of sealer dried 24 hours and wet sanded to 1500grit





This is really a fun project and its truly not that difficult. Time consuming..yes..but realaxing as well.
There will definitly be more cutting board projects in my future!

I appriciate the tips more than you guys know! It shortend the learning curve dramaticly and my happiness with the work is a direct result

Thanks

JP
 
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srmofo

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SW ohio
One More Tip. Scrape Dried Glue Off. It Will Come Off In Large Chunks. Then Sand
 
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srmofo

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simple and effective.. make sense...

I kept having to change out the paper because the glue would clog it up...

Thanks

JP

I Should Have Probably Also Mentioned That You Don't Try To Remove The Glue Until It Is Dry. The Large Beads That Squeeze Up Between The Boards Pop Right Off Once Dry. If You Try To Clean It Up While Still Wet, It Will Smear Down Into The Grain And You Will Be Stuck Sanding Or It Will Ruin The Finish.
 
OP
D

DoghouseForge

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Joined
May 11, 2013
Messages
374
Location
Lakeland, Fl
I Should Have Probably Also Mentioned That You Don't Try To Remove The Glue Until It Is Dry. The Large Beads That Squeeze Up Between The Boards Pop Right Off Once Dry. If You Try To Clean It Up While Still Wet, It Will Smear Down Into The Grain And You Will Be Stuck Sanding Or It Will Ruin The Finish.

Yep,, messed that up to then.. I was dabbing it with a towel as I went and then after it was compressed..Had to sand an additional 1/16" down to clear all the residue..

I should know this stuff,,, of course glue is easier to remove when dry...:withstupi I was so focusd on being neat and tidy and I actually made a harder mess to clean up in the process...

Oh well, Im going to make another one soon to work on the grain direction ideas...Ill use this information to help that one be a little eaiser.

Thanks
JP
 
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