Block foundation w/ 2x4 walls

[petebob]

Hello, I just stumbled across this site. I've seen some very impressive projects here. I'm just beginning to build a 24x36 single story garage at my house. I'm going to use 8" block for the foundation, up to 3 rows above the floor with 2x4 walls. I'm wondering what is the best way to frame for the overhead doors. I can't seem to find any decent pictures that show how others have done this. If the door framing is inside the block, that would leave a large gap to fill between the door and the wall. Seems like it would look odd, too....

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[e-tek]

I know there are much better carpenters on this site than me, but mine was done with 2x6's inside the foundation to frame the doors.
Our shops will be the exact same size - nice for 4 cars. I put a lift in mine so could squeeze 5, but I use the space under it for storing parts, engines, hoists, etc! Best of luck on the build and welcome!

 

[IDASHO]

I dont see what the problem is, maybe I am not understanding you question though.

I framed a 2x4 stick built garage on 8" block, but for the front wall with the large overhead door, I went 2x6. I also ran the jamb-legs nearly all the way to the ground. the small opening at the bottoms was filled with treated lumber.

Here are a few photos, hope they help!

 

[Torque1st]

My suggestion would be to frame the doors with 2x10's to bring the doors out beyond the block.

 

[dipper]

My suggestion would be to frame the doors with 2x10's to bring the doors out beyond the block.

Are you crazy? you must be smoking something. You don't want to bring the door out from block or wall of the building.

Petebob- I built same style as you, block wall foundation and 2x4's. The block is 8" from the footer up, then it transitions to 6" just below grade. So far this has served two purposes:
1) When the floor is poured, it sits on a 'ledge' around the inside perimeter of the garage, approximately 2".

2) If you use 2x6" sill plate it completely covers the 5.5" wide 6" block.

After your wall is framed and opening for the garage door, you put up a jamb with 2x6 material.

I'll see if i can find some pics on my build. My crappy webhost has been having some issues lately.

8" block to 6" block transition &
2x6" pressure treated sill plate (don't forget sill sealer foam!!)

2x6" jamb - it installs flush with the inside of your 2x4 wall, so it protrudes out about 1 to 1.5" on theoutside.

There's tons of pics on my build, just click the link in my sig. If you need something more specific just ask i got over a thousand pics of my build.
There may be other ways to frame oh doors but this has worked out good for me.

Torque1st - How would you ever install tracks for the garage door if it was installed 2-3" outside of the interior wall as you suggest by using a 2x10?
Got any pics of this type of install?

 

[dipper]

Also be sure to fully understand the opening dimensions for you garage door and how you are going to arrive at the proper size opening when your jamb is framed in.

 

[FunfDreisig]

Hello, I just stumbled across this site. I've seen some very impressive projects here. I'm just beginning to build a 24x36 single story garage at my house. I'm going to use 8" block for the foundation, up to 3 rows above the floor with 2x4 walls. I'm wondering what is the best way to frame for the overhead doors. I can't seem to find any decent pictures that show how others have done this. If the door framing is inside the block, that would leave a large gap to fill between the door and the wall. Seems like it would look odd, too....

Thanks in advance for any help.

I am building a 25x42' single story with a 4" high 8" block stem wall on three sides. So I have the same issue you do with transitioning between 8" (really 7.5 in) block and the 2x4 (really 1.5x3.5") wood frame. Beside the door framing there are other things to consider, including...

How are you going to seal the top of the block wall so that any cavities do not become homes for critters (particularly termites)?

How will you finish the block wall/foundation (paint, stucco, brick, rock, etc) and how thick will that finish be?

What siding will you be using? Do you want it flush or over hanging the block wall/foundation?

I my case the garage doors are exterior sliding barn doors. So the profile of the wall needs to be pretty flat to be able to seal the ends of the doors.

I'm capping the block wall with 2"x8"x16" solid blocks to seal the wall. The finish on the blocks will be thin (e.g. paint). I'm insetting my 2x4 wall by 1 1/2" (the thickness of the OSB shear panel and smooth HardiePlank siding. I'll use a Galvalum Z flashing coming down between the OSB and the framing and out&down over the edge block. The end result is that the exterior will be flush and the interior will have a small ledge.

Now to your original question. I'll be running the framing along the edge of the blocks from the slab to the header.

Funf Dreisig

 

[dipper]

What siding will you be using? Do you want it flush or over hanging the block wall/foundation?

I my case the garage doors are exterior sliding barn doors. So the profile of the wall needs to be pretty flat to be able to seal the ends of the doors.

I'm capping the block wall with 2"x8"x16" solid blocks to seal the wall. The finish on the blocks will be thin (e.g. paint). I'm insetting my 2x4 wall by 1 1/2" (the thickness of the OSB shear panel and smooth HardiePlank siding. I'll use a Galvalum Z flashing coming down between the OSB and the framing and out&down over the edge block. The end result is that the exterior will be flush and the interior will have a small ledge.

Funf Dreisig

How big are your J-bolts? After you cap the block are your j-bolts going to stick thru or do you have some other approved way of attaching your sill plate to the block?

I ran my osb down over the block and then used a good exterior cualk to seal between the two. The vinyl siding hangs about 1/2" below the OSB.

 

[FunfDreisig]

How big are your J-bolts? After you cap the block are your j-bolts going to stick thru or do you have some other approved way of attaching your sill plate to the block?

I ran my osb down over the block and then used a good exterior cualk to seal between the two. The vinyl siding hangs about 1/2" below the OSB.

I'm using 10" J bolts. 1 (threads)+ 1 1/2 (mud plate) + 2 3/8 (cap +mortar) = 4 7/8" so I still quite a bit of length left to embed into the block core fill.

BTW I don't have to meet any specific codes/inspections/approvals etc.

When the interface between the siding and the block parts of the wall is pretty low, running the siding down below the lip works/looks fine. But in my case this interface is 4" up the wall on only some of the walls. So IMHO it looks better when the two planes (siding and block wall) are vertically aligned.

Funf Dreisig

 

[Torque1st]

Are you crazy? you must be smoking something. You don't want to bring the door out from block or wall of the building.

Torque1st - How would you ever install tracks for the garage door if it was installed 2-3" outside of the interior wall as you suggest by using a 2x10?
Got any pics of this type of install?

Think again sonny and lay off the weed you are hallucinating. The door and tracks would be inside the building but beyond the edge of the block. Very simple installation. I agree transitioning to 6" block would be better. I assumed some level of competence by the reader, but maybe that was to much in your case.

 

[petebob]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm using 8" block up until the level of the slab and above that will be brick on the outside and 4" block on the inside. One end and part of the back wall, will be below grade, so I'd rather use the thicker block for that. The outside, above the brick/block will be vinyl siding and the J trim at the bottom will hang down just above the top of the brick, just like my house is done. Here is a page from a framing book that I scanned and cobbled up just a bit to show what I'm trying to describe:

If I put a 2x6 inside the block, I'll have about a 4" void between the jam and the rest of the wall. I think the jam built up beyond the end of the block is how IDASHO described doing his.

 

[PurdueSD]

You will regret the 8" block and 2x4 walls the first time you try to push a cabinet against the garage wall. Nice 3" gap...

Thats one of the reasons i went with 6" block (first row below the floor was 10") and 2x walls. My second reaspm was insulation. Utilities arent getting cheaper and R-19 pays for it self in a hurry over R13 if you plan to heat or cool.

 

[thdewey]

Why not use 'header block' for the top course? This will keep the top of the slab at the top level with the block. Here are some photos.

 

[PurdueSD]

Maybe i was confused with what you were initially describing. Anyways heres how i did mine and I think they turned out great.

6" block behind the brick, 2x6 walls. Jambs are 2x8s wrapped with aluminum.

 

[petebob]

PurdueSD, your shop is amazing! Do you have any pictures of the inside of the door jam? Maybe down where the block wall meets the lumber?

 

[Torque1st]

Trim or thin out any trees where you have covered their roots with concrete or cut the roots otherwise the trees will be weakened and die. The roots generally extend to the edge of the drip line from their leaves and a little beyond. Contact a real tree specialist (an arborist) not just a tree butcher.

 

[dacshack]

I have a 28'x32' garage. I laid 3 courses of 8" block above my floor and then framed walls with 8' 2x4s. My garage door opening I framed 9'3". My question is,is this enough room for tracks to clear bl

 

[dacshack]

to clear block if I frame opening with 2x6? Does anyone have any pics?

 

[dacshack]

I have a 28'x32' garage. I laid 3 courses of 8" block above my floor and then framed walls with 8' 2x4s. My garage door opening I framed 9'3". My question is,is this enough room for tracks?

 

[EasleyDoesIt2]

Can you send me some pictures of your garage door framing to compensate for the stem wall sitting out farther?