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Above 1200 Sq/FT Blue Bomber's Garages

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

cweidert03

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Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
417
Location
New Castle, IN
Very nice work. I have just started toying with building a detached two car garage at the back of my property. I have to find out if I’m even allowed to by city and neighborhood codes. I have an attached 3 car but due to a stair case to the above bonus room it only has room for 2. My biggest issue is the the grade of my property doesn’t bode well for a drive so I’m going over options for that. I would love to build it myself but A. I have never built anything that would require that degree of accuracy. B. Finding the time to get it accomplished


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BlueBomber

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Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
3,201
Location
Outside Boston, MA
Very nice work. I have just started toying with building a detached two car garage at the back of my property. I have to find out if I’m even allowed to by city and neighborhood codes. I have an attached 3 car but due to a stair case to the above bonus room it only has room for 2. My biggest issue is the the grade of my property doesn’t bode well for a drive so I’m going over options for that. I would love to build it myself but A. I have never built anything that would require that degree of accuracy. B. Finding the time to get it accomplished


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Thanks!

My local code required 30 ft of setback from my back property line. As to skills, my biggest prior project was a large farmer's porch on my house. Books and YouTube are a great way to build knowledge, as is practicing on smaller projects. I also have had great success with just scheduling a meeting with my town's building inspector and showing him what I wanted to do, complete with my initial drawings and site plan. He was appreciative that I wanted to do it right and to code, and that good will carried through my porch project.

Even if you decide to contract out the work, you'll be ahead of the game in talking to your local inspector and it may help build steam in you to get it underway.

Good luck!
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BlueBomber

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Sep 14, 2013
Messages
3,201
Location
Outside Boston, MA
I had big plans of writing up a detailed tutorial for the installation of my second garage door. Then the Super Bowl came on. So here are all the pictures--I'll come back and edit the post to add notes as the game progresses.

First, I transferred over the two door frame fillers. These boards act as braces and alignment surfaces for the garage door panels as they stack up.

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The Clopay door kit is pretty well thought out. The hinges for each panel are numbered--you just have to make sure the number is on the corresponding panel.

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Here's the first panel in place.

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You can see how the frame fillers support the panel. The instructions say to pound a nail in on each side and bend it over each edge to hold it in place. I was skeptical, but it works well.

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Because the stem walls are so tight, I have to install the rollers before I fix it in place.

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I check the first panel for level. This doorway is dead on.

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The second panel hinge has the only flaw I found in the kit. The roller tube blocks access to the bolt hole. I had to put an open end wrench on it to get it started.

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Second panel in place.

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Garage door rails lean back a little so that the door panels pull away from the trim around the door. This allows the door to open smoothly without jamming. To keep the door perfectly vertical, each hinge moves the roller tub a little further away from the door. Here, hinge #3 moves things back right on track (pun intended :) ).

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The fourth panel is the glass windows. It is well packaged and much heavier than the others.

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The top panel has a larger bracket in lieu of a hinge. Interestingly, it needs two bolts that have no starter holes. I have to drill them.

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The v-notch between panels makes lining up each panel as no-brainer.

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Here are all five panels, held in place only with bent over nails.

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The door tracks slip over the rollers but there's not enough room to make that maneuver for the bottom two rollers, so I fit the tracks over the top rollers first, then drop them down over the bottom ones.

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The last step for the weekend was to cut 41" inches off of of the horizontal tracks. I ordered high rise kits to lift the open doors up to the ceiling, and I need the 41" of track to fill in the vertical. My big Hitachi grinder and a cut off wheel made short work of the cuts.

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BUGTHUG

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Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
2,960
Location
Kansas
Nice job. On the track, you see one has the wheel curve and the other side is 90*, if you put the roller wheels into the curve part of the track the top part will fit over the top of the wheels. So you don't need to slide the rail from the top section of the door down. I hope this makes sense, probably to late now that your finished.
 
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BlueBomber

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Sep 14, 2013
Messages
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Location
Outside Boston, MA
Nice job. On the track, you see one has the wheel curve and the other side is 90*, if you put the roller wheels into the curve part of the track the top part will fit over the top of the wheels. So you don't need to slide the rail from the top section of the door down. I hope this makes sense, probably to late now that your finished.
Bugthug,

Thanks, and I understand exactly what you mean and after re-reading my original post, I can see why you thought I did it that way. The picture immediately below the text describing my technique shows me applying that technique against the number two hinge.

The problem is that my bottom panels have less than an inch of clearance between the back of the rollers and the concrete stem wall. There wasn't enough room to slip the 90° part behind those wheels. Therefore, I used the technique you described, capturing rollers from the top four panels, and then only had to slide the rail down over the bottom panel's two rollers. Much better than starting at the top!

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BlueBomber

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Sep 14, 2013
Messages
3,201
Location
Outside Boston, MA
Last weekend I also got the man-door installed but it was a trial. First, the plans called for a 40" opening in the stem wall, and it was built that way. I assumed that I'd need to frame the opening with pressure treated 2x4s, and did so a few weeks ago. However, when I came out on Sunday to actually install the door, I casually checked measurements and found the door was wider than my framed opening. D'oh!
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What to do? I pulled the 2x4s down and split one lengthwise the wide way to buy myself an inch and a half. Cutting that board wasn't too much for my 10" table saw, but it was all it wanted!

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Next I test-fit the door into the opening and realized the aluminum sill needs to stick out into the paved area, which is just a bit taller than the slab. So back to the table saw to split another PT 2x4 to elevate the door sill enough to clear the asphalt.b112e1c9a0987655c05c13fe9edd9ca1.jpg57da3359cff016359f7c49c965602bbc.jpg

Finally, I decided to replace the wooden trim with vinyl since I am doing the garage doors in vinyl for minimal maintenance. The challenge across the top was the alignment of the door on the opening had the sheathing across the top interfering with the upper trim piece. So, another trip to the saw table cut a notch to allow the trim piece to lign up where it needed to be. The verticals also required some notching to fit. Once everything was cut, I nailed it on with galvanized finishing nails.599822fdee75424506a04636bdfca162.jpgd12514852658ab5bf18cb6bce37d6311.jpg

Here are some shots of the finished doors from the outside. Well, the garage doors aren't finished yet, but it looks good from the driveway!

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BlueBomber

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Sep 14, 2013
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3,201
Location
Outside Boston, MA
The electrician team was out on Friday and two guys made a lot of progress. Most of the wall wiring and outlets are done, as are the overhead outlets and the front outside light boxes. Still to be done: 60-amp power through underground conduit from existing garage, back outside lights and outlet, and remainder of interior wiring.

This wall is where my work bench will go. I spec'd four outlets along this wall, and then two each on the other two walls. All wall outlets are of the 20-amp variety. The back wall will also get a 240-volt outlet for a welder.

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The three light switches are for the inside overheads, front outside and back outside. At the top of the picture is the outlet for one of the shaft-drive garage door opener.

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This corner behind the entry door is where the breaker box will go.

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For lighting, I ordered a 10-pack of LED lights from Amazon. They are not high end, but claim 4000 lumens and 50,000 hours average life. At $28 each, they seem a bargain.

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The pull chains won't do much good 13 feet in the air, so I pulled each light to "on" and then snipped the chain while it was still extended. Now each light will have a cleaner look.

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To mount the lights, I chose the quasi-hackish approach of just driving two deck screws through the middle of the thin reflector metal directly into the truss bottom. Each light is just four pounds, so two screws are plenty. There are certainly more professional ways to do it, but this works for me. The light tubes are flexible plastic, so I just moved them to the side.

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Excess cord was tucked up on top of the lights and only enough to reach the plug stuck out.

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Here are nine lights installed. Hopefully the electricians complete their work and I'll see how well the lights fill the space later this week.

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BlueBomber

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Sep 14, 2013
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Location
Outside Boston, MA
I returned from work today to find the electrical crew have finished their wiring and...

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...the building is hot! I have power! Also, my lights are VERY bright. I couldn't be more pleased with the luminance. We'll see how longevity goes, but at $27 each, if I get a couple of years out of them, I'm ahead.

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This weekend I'll tackle getting the garage doors finished, but for now it feels so good to see the building ablaze with photons!

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BlueBomber

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Outside Boston, MA
Working on garage doors this weekend. Here's what I got done yesterday:

I ordered a kit from DDM to lift the horizontal track for the Clopay doors up closer to the ceiling. Clopay sells such kits themselves, but my Home Depot specialist couldn't figure out how to do it. The kit consists of bracketry to move the horizontal track and to support the additional vertical track. The kit also included new springs and pulleys to lift the doors. I'll post pics of those after today's work.

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The bracketry changes the angle on the vertical extension so I trimmed the excess track I had cut off of the horizontal tracks to match up better. After mocking up the first one and checking fitment, I cut and drilled the remaining parts.

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The kit calls for removing the flag bracket that comes with the doors, but during fitment I realized I had just enough room due to the 42" lift to leave the original bracketry in place.

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Here's the first new bracket on place.

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Once both vertical extensions were installed on the first door, I moved on to the horizontals. I needed to fab the anchor brackets to hold the rails in place and support the weight of the open door. Rather than buy a bracket kit, I repurposed the angle brackets that I removed from the excess horizontal track. There was just enough, when combined with the brackets I removed from the lower part of the vertical tracks, to make four anchor kits.

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Today, I'm working on mounting and winding the springs on this door. Don't worry: SWMBO will be out here with me when I'm winding to be an extra set of hands and eyes. More pics tomorrow morning.

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BlueBomber

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Sep 14, 2013
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3,201
Location
Outside Boston, MA
Okay, a long delay in updating did not mean a tragedy during spring winding, just a very busy work schedule the past week.

I spent a bit time going over the instructions and watched a few YouTube videos on installing garage door springs before I began. Given the "death and dismemberment" warnings all through the paperwork and the lore about the dangers of garage door springs, I wanted to be prepared. Like most such, things, it wasn't that bad as long as you understood what you were doing and why.

I assembled the jackshafts on the workbench. My kit came with hollow 1" shafts. The cable pulley for highlift doors has a ramped, cone-shaped section that is designed to make up for the spring tension lost as the door is lifting straight up. Once the first panel turns the corner, the weight of the door stack pushing down on the cables starts to decrease and the cable begins to wind up on the straight part of the pulley. The bearing brackets that hold the jackshaft bolt to the flag bracket which in turn gets screwed to the wall with 3" lag screws.

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Here's the shaft installed. I chose to mount it a little lower than normal. Usually the jackshaft is up above the horizontal track so as to get the maximum lift geometry. However, since the bottom of my door in the open position was going to be dangling four feet below the ceiling, I made it easier on myself. A consequence of the lower mounting position was my cables were too long, so I clamped them and later cut off the excess. Each spring needed 46 quarter turns to create enough tension to lift each door with one hand.

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Here's done. I forgot to take any pictures of the door opener installation, but I used two Liftmaster 3900 openers that mount directly to the jackshafts. They work well and keep the ceiling uncluttered. I only had to move one light during track install, so hopefully the lack of symmetry won't bother my internal OCD...:)

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BlueBomber

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I spent today's good weather....going to an estate sale! I used up my morning but I finally got a Wilton vise at a steal price. Pics are posted on the Garage Sale and Vises threads.

When I finally got back to working on the garage, it was after 1pm. I decided to work on siding the southern wall now that the electricians have plumbed in the power line. But first I had to make my own perforation for my utility pipe from the other garage.

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A Sawzsall quickly opened the hole, although it was bigger than I would have liked. Next up was trimming around the utilities with J-block. The big 4-inch utility pipe demanded some creativity. Ultimately I split a 12" x 6" J-block on the band saw and then carved out the pipe cross-section in the filler panel. For the smaller electrical pipe, I used an already split hose bib J-block.

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Once the trim was done, it was on to siding. The utilities added some challenge to this task too, but I managed to get the vinyl panels trimmed correctly on the first try. Once I got past the windows, things went more quickly. Still, I dragged out the flood light after sundown and kept on until about 8 pm to "finish" this side up to the level of the soffit work I still need to do.

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Sunday will be a yucky weather day, so I'll be prepping for work stuff and tax return stuff, but I'll interrupt both for a return to yesterday's sale for half price day!

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C_F

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Utah...SNOW BLOWS!
It's coming along nicely, it won't be long now until the exterior is all completed. I always enjoy your progress updates! :)
 
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BlueBomber

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Nice build and lots of detail. Appreciate all the time you have invested for this thread.

Thank you!

It's coming along nicely, it won't be long now until the exterior is all completed. I always enjoy your progress updates! :)

Thanks, gents. I've learned a lot through this site, and although this is one of many dozens of build threads, if someone learns something from mine, I'm glad to contribute. The encouragement and kudos from you all is nice too! :rocker:
 

Jayman17

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Feb 6, 2017
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Location
Seattle, Wa
I'm enjoying following along on your build, you're going to have a great space when you get it done. The lights look great in there, and that Zip system looks pretty slick. I'd like to repeat what others have said and thank you for doing such a great job posting updates and sharing info. I'll be seeing it through to the end...:D

-Jay
 
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BlueBomber

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I'm enjoying following along on your build, you're going to have a great space when you get it done. The lights look great in there, and that Zip system looks pretty slick. I'd like to repeat what others have said and thank you for doing such a great job posting updates and sharing info. I'll be seeing it through to the end...:D

-Jay
Thanks, Jayman17! I hope to keep the thread alive with other goings on in and around both garages. After this garage culminates, I'll start working on a resto-mod of the '60 Impala you can see in the pictures.

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C_F

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Utah...SNOW BLOWS!
More driveway pictures. I'm really pleased with how it came out. The asphalt layers are nice and thick. I'll probably wait until the spring to backfill along the edges when I redo the rest of the yard.4f3a164b86dee1f29a19fdbc73f954b1.jpg3d9e93d6f34605f76602761be64ce045.jpg6f99978f5bbaa79c4487aa34bf0c912f.jpga7e3128311291a18859af5d06a69c13a.jpg
I just got thinking...this summer you should paint a broken yellow line down the center of the driveways, then white parking spots near the garages, maybe even add a turn lane in the mix somewhere. Add a couple road signs, and... :lol_hitti
 

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bagged89s10

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Mar 13, 2005
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CT
Just wanted to post a link to the particular lights I used in my garage:

Sunco Lighting 10 PACK - ENERGY STAR, ETL - 4ft 40W LED Utility Shop Light, 4000lm 120W Equivalent, Double Integrated LED Fixture, 5000K Daylight Ceiling Light, Garage, Workshop, Linkable, Frosted
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0748YTDMK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

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Those look exactly like the led shop lights I got from Costco. They are awesome.
 
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BlueBomber

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I just got thinking...this summer you should paint a broken yellow line down the center of the driveways, then white parking spots near the garages, maybe even add a turn lane in the mix somewhere. Add a couple road signs, and... [emoji38]_hitti
Thanks for the suggestions...but maybe Railroad Crossing markings would keep the boneheads from using it as a turnaround!

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Bob Heine

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BB, one of these at the entrance should reduce traffic on the driveway.
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BlueBomber

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BB, one of these at the entrance should reduce traffic on the driveway.
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:hitti. love it! The challenge is what will be welcoming to guests but ward of trespassers...oh, and be acceptable to SWMBO? Probably just tolerating the occasional trespassers....

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tab2

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Apr 9, 2009
Messages
381
Location
Boston
Great build; I don’t know how I missed it until now. I need a new driveway once I spend the money on all the projects and am jealous of yours. I love how nice and bright yellow all of Lazaro’s trucks are. Interesting to see they were on the low side.

Keep going strong. We’ve had some warm weather so I hope you have been keeping productive.
 
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BlueBomber

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Great build; I don’t know how I missed it until now. I need a new driveway once I spend the money on all the projects and am jealous of yours. I love how nice and bright yellow all of Lazaro’s trucks are. Interesting to see they were on the low side.

Keep going strong. We’ve had some warm weather so I hope you have been keeping productive.
Thanks for the kind words and encouragement, tab2. The blacktop was awesome through the winter (amazing how quickly I forgot about living with gravel for seven winters!).

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BlueBomber

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Last weekend was spent prepping for taxes, and we met with the accountant on Friday. Unfortunately, her internet was out due to the most recent Nor'easter that dropped a foot of wet, heavy snow on New England. So I won't know what the damage will be for another couple of days.

Speaking of the storm and damage, we lost a medium sized pine in the woods next to our house. I'm shocked we didn't hear this one come down as it is on the same side of the house as our bedroom. Once the snow melts, I'll chop it up and will also probably put some cable bracing on the remaining pines to keep them from falling toward the house.

Here are a few more shots around the property of all the snow and subsequent clearing operations last Thursday.

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Today, I went out to the garage intent on putting up the outside trim around the garage doors, but it was just too darn cold. So, I decided to work in the other heated garage. First, I scrapped a Craftsman radial arm saw that I bought at an estate sale a few weeks ago. I got it for $50, and there's a $100 recall on them from the manufacturer. I felt a little bad about doing so, as this saw had been used for little over its lifetime. But, scrapping it will pay for everything else I got that day.

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I saved whatever I could off of it, and other than a few items EOCJason asked for, I'll put everything else up on Ebay for other users who don't scrap their saws.

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The next thing I did was finish routing the 4" PVC utility pipe into the old garage. I used a variety of tools (12"-long drill bit, variable hole saw, utility knife and Sawzall) to make the opening through the cedar siding, the plywood and the drywall. Fortunately, I missed the stud in the wall by a few hair-widths and the hole was much tighter than the one in the new garage. I still need to caulk it, but it is pretty air tight.

I realize now that I took zero pictures of the pipe installation. I'll take some tomorrow when I go back and caulk it.

Last thing today was routing the compressed air line through the utility pipe. Months ago I bought a Rapidair Maxline kit that comes with 100' of flexible 3/4" vinyl-coated aluminum tubing, thinking it would be easy to snake it through my utility pipe. However, I had my doubts when I started to unroll the coiled tubing--it was very stiff! After second guessing myself and pricing jackhammer-sized 3/4" rubber lines on Amazon (twice as much as my kit for a hundred feet!), I decided to give the Rapidair tubing the ol' college try.

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One thing I knew for certain I would need was some kind of nose piece for the leading end of the tubing. I expected the pipe to catch on some elbow lip halfway down the pipe and get stuck. I mulled it over a bit and decided to make what I needed on my lathe.

I scrounged through my collection of estate sale scraps and found 4-inch length of plastic rod of the right diameter. I rounded off one end into a bullet shape, and then drilled a 5/8" hole down the middle for the rope to come out. I then swapped the leader around in the chuck and drilled a larger hole in the bottom, the same size as the outside diameter of the tubing. This allowed the leader to sit down over the end of the tube and because the rope would be pulling from the middle of the bullet shape, there would be no sharp edges to catch. The last step was to drill radially through the leader and the tubing so that I could poke the rope out and tie it to the tubing below the leader, locking both firmly together.

Here are a few shots of the lathe work.

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And here's the leader sticking out of the far end of the tubing.

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Speaking of the ol' college try, I had to call on my son and his college friend (both home for Spring Break) to pull on the rope at the distant end and uncoil the tubing behind me as I pushed it into the near end. We only got stuck twice, but both times we were able to back up and hit it again, pushing past whatever had stopped us. I pulled all but 25 feet through the pipe and will hook up the near end tubing to my existing distro system tomorrow. I have a few other goodies to install in the air compressor system that I'll detail then.

Thanks for reading!
 

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BlueBomber

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Thanks. I have another write-up from Sunday's activities I hope to get to this evening as I wait for the snow to finish filling up my yard and driveway. [emoji2]

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