Hi, I'm new to the site, and I have spent the last hour trying to locate a thread I have previously read on here about someone restoring a vise by electrolysis. After its completion they had stated they had finished it with machinist blue dye or bluing (similar to bluing a gun I think?) Anyway, I can't locate this post, or the person that wrote it. I'd like to see some pics of what the completed vise looks like and just as important, how to complete the process. I have restored my vise and its waiting for a finish. Thanks
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blue machinist dye on vise?
- Thread starter steelkilt
- Start date
Amitygravel
Well-known member
Welcome to the forum Steelkilt.
I remember someone using gun blue on a vise, but can't remember the actual thread location.
You can check out Brownells or Midway gunsmith supply.
They will have several cold blue solutions you can check out.
Craig
I remember someone using gun blue on a vise, but can't remember the actual thread location.
You can check out Brownells or Midway gunsmith supply.
They will have several cold blue solutions you can check out.
Craig
CatCow
Active member
I would guess this thread? http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61442
Anyway, cold bluing something like a large vise is going to use a lot of bluing chemicals - and it may not come out like you want it. That said, Brownell's Oxpho-Blue is a pretty nice cold-blue (comes in liquid or paste, I use the paste) that isn't bad. I've used it for touchups on guns, but haven't tried large areas. In general hot bluing is going to be better(both color and durability), but cold is better than nothing(and if done right will look good too).
Anyway, cold bluing something like a large vise is going to use a lot of bluing chemicals - and it may not come out like you want it. That said, Brownell's Oxpho-Blue is a pretty nice cold-blue (comes in liquid or paste, I use the paste) that isn't bad. I've used it for touchups on guns, but haven't tried large areas. In general hot bluing is going to be better(both color and durability), but cold is better than nothing(and if done right will look good too).
senlow
Well-known member
I think that a blued vise would be cool. Cold bluing is a piss poor finish that's not very durable. A hot blued finish would be great, but most of us are not equipped for that. There is an alternative.
Slow rust bluing is the way to go. It's an old school method of bluing steel. It's inexpensive and doesn't require much equipment. However, it's pretty time consuming. How do you do it? Here's a quick overview of the process. First, clean the parts thoroughly. Next, wipe a rust bluing solution (acid) over the parts. I use PILKINGTON CLASSIC AMERICAN RUST BLUE. It's available from Brownells, a gunsmith supply. Then suspend the parts from wires in a humid tank. This can be as simple as a 5 gallon bucket with a little water in the bottom and hooks in the lid for suspending parts. Let the parts rust for a few hours or days, depending on temperature and humidity. Next, you need to convert the red rust to black oxide. For this, just set the parts in boiling distilled water for 15 or 20 minutes. Note, the water must be pure. If it has minerals disolved in it, they may be deposited on your parts. Finally, the parts need to be carded. This is typically done with a wire wheel. It's important to use a stainless wire wheel with small diameter strands, spun at low speeds. Mine is 6" diameter, with .005 (yes, that's five thousandths of an inch) wires. Now for the time consuming part; repeat the process 3-12 times, depending on the depth of color you want.
I have blued many parts this way. I've even blued a few vise parts, like handles and swivel nuts. I haven't done a complete vise, but it's doable.
Slow rust bluing is the way to go. It's an old school method of bluing steel. It's inexpensive and doesn't require much equipment. However, it's pretty time consuming. How do you do it? Here's a quick overview of the process. First, clean the parts thoroughly. Next, wipe a rust bluing solution (acid) over the parts. I use PILKINGTON CLASSIC AMERICAN RUST BLUE. It's available from Brownells, a gunsmith supply. Then suspend the parts from wires in a humid tank. This can be as simple as a 5 gallon bucket with a little water in the bottom and hooks in the lid for suspending parts. Let the parts rust for a few hours or days, depending on temperature and humidity. Next, you need to convert the red rust to black oxide. For this, just set the parts in boiling distilled water for 15 or 20 minutes. Note, the water must be pure. If it has minerals disolved in it, they may be deposited on your parts. Finally, the parts need to be carded. This is typically done with a wire wheel. It's important to use a stainless wire wheel with small diameter strands, spun at low speeds. Mine is 6" diameter, with .005 (yes, that's five thousandths of an inch) wires. Now for the time consuming part; repeat the process 3-12 times, depending on the depth of color you want.
I have blued many parts this way. I've even blued a few vise parts, like handles and swivel nuts. I haven't done a complete vise, but it's doable.
Alrite, thanks guys, I'm going to look into the hot blueing method and see what it costs but you brought up a good point; what if I don't like it? I sure wish I could see some others, but the only one I've seen was cold blued and I thought it came out sharp! Maybe ill go back to the self etching primer and rustoleum hammertone dark bronze idea. Which avenue would you guys pick???