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bmwpower's garage build

ron in sc

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Do you need the recommended install distances for Rotaries? I have the sheets at home

I may need them, if I do I'll PM you.

Do check the distance you think is 14' when you get a chance.

My garage is smaller than yours 24' wide by 26' long but it will be for only one car so the lift will be in the middle.

The three lifts high on my list are
Nussbaum Jumbo NT--can be flush mounted, clean look, but I don't know about there customer support.

Rotary two post-- available and great customer support

Mohawk A-7 really like this one--customer service is supposed to be good.

Mowhawk System 1--can lift 10K pounds and has a number of accesories that be purchased to make it more usefull, resale is better than A-7. Probably my first pick.
 
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bmwpower

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ron in sc said:
I may need them, if I do I'll PM you.

Do check the distance you think is 14' when you get a chance.

My garage is smaller than yours 24' wide by 26' long but it will be for only one car so the lift will be in the middle.

The three lifts high on my list are
Nussbaum Jumbo NT--can be flush mounted, clean look, but I don't know about there customer support.

Rotary two post-- available and great customer support

Mohawk A-7 really like this one--customer service is supposed to be good.

Mowhawk System 1--can lift 10K pounds and has a number of accesories that be purchased to make it more usefull, resale is better than A-7. Probably my first pick.

Just checked...it is 12 feet to the door, not 14.
 

ron in sc

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Just checked...it is 12 feet to the door

I called Rotary to ask some other techical questions and I was put thru to a fellow who is a "Technical Information Supervisor". All I can say is he was extemely knowledgeable and helpful. I think I may be pretty hard pressed to buy another brand of lift given Rotary's apparent high level of customer support and the fact that they have people locally that install and service them.

The lift he suggested for my use is, I think, the same one you have an SPOA10RA.

I asked about minimum distance from door and front of the garage (using midpoint of columm) and he too said 12' to rear and 6' in front. It was based type of vehicles I will be lifting.
 
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bmwpower

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ron in sc said:
I called Rotary to ask some other techical questions and I was put thru to a fellow who is a "Technical Information Supervisor". All I can say is he was extemely knowledgeable and helpful. I think I may be pretty hard pressed to buy another brand of lift given Rotary's apparent high level of customer support and the fact that they have people locally that install and service them.

The lift he suggested for my use is, I think, the same one you have an SPOA10RA.

I asked about minimum distance from door and front of the garage (using midpoint of columm) and he too said 12' to rear and 6' in front. It was based type of vehicles I will be lifting.

Mine is a symmetrical lift SP010. The SP0A10RA is an assymetrical lift with thread up adapters. He probably suggested that lift due to the min pad height. The RA lifts are over an inch shorter in pad height.

I haven't had a problem lifting any of my cars with the SP010. The only car I haven't tried is my 325i convertible. It's lowered and out-of-commision right now, so I haven't tried it on the lift.

If you're lifting slammed Porsches, you'll probably want what he recommended. The RA adapters are more, from what I remember, though.
 

ron in sc

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The SP0A10RA is an assymetrical lift with thread up adapters. He probably suggested that lift due to the min pad height. The RA lifts are over an inch shorter in pad height.

Actually the model I'd get is the SPOA10iRA. It has like you said screw up adapters and they are a little lower. It will also have 3 stage front arm which is better for most of the vehicles I'll deal with because they have specific lifting points. As far as my Porsche goes I may be able to use the lift without having to drive onto any pieces of wood, but if I do that would be ok.


I'd also get that inbay feature too.
 

enginerd

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Has anyone found a nice off the shelf solution for rotory/hawk "arms" to allow use on racecars?

Many times, we've had to have someone lift up a corner of the chassis to get the lift arms under.

Anyone know of a mfg that makes such an item?
Thanks
 

slammer

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I know it would be somewhere in this thread, I have looked twice and can't see it.

How thick are the wood inserts(benchtops), and also what is the thickness of the stainless sheet going over them?

Cheers Angelo

PS awsome workshop!
 
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bmwpower

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slammer said:
I know it would be somewhere in this thread, I have looked twice and can't see it.

How thick are the wood inserts(benchtops), and also what is the thickness of the stainless sheet going over them?

Cheers Angelo

PS awsome workshop!

Thanks Angelo!

The tops are made of a 1-3/4" wood core with a 1/16" stainless cover.
 
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bmwpower

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enginerd said:
Has anyone found a nice off the shelf solution for rotory/hawk "arms" to allow use on racecars?

Many times, we've had to have someone lift up a corner of the chassis to get the lift arms under.

Anyone know of a mfg that makes such an item?
Thanks

Which arms have you been using?

The arms on the lift Ron speaks of are the lowest Rotaries I've seen. Have you tried contacting Rotary to see if they make something for that specific purpose?

I know that in some of the Rotary brochures they used to show a touring car on one of their inground lifts.
 
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slammer

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Thanks for the quick reply,

I went with 32mm (1-1/4") MDF with 2.5mm stainless on the portable workbench that I am making.

Cheers Angelo
 

ron in sc

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Anyone know of a mfg that makes such an item?

Nussbaum does. Check links I've posted. The problem with Nussbaum as I see it is availability of lifts and parts as well as customer support. They would be my first choice; but my thinking is purchasing an expensive product without a company you can get ahold of easily to ask a question or get a part is not worth dealing with, unless you really want it and are willing to put up with a certain degree of frustration.
http://www.nussbaum-lifts.de/module...ospekte/Smart_Lift_Prospekt/Smart_Lift_GB.pdf
http://www.nussbaum-lifts.de/module...er/Prospekte/Smart_Lift_Mini_Max_Prospect.pdf
 

99E36M

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How about min. height for a Rotary lift? I'm in the planning stages and my modular builder said a 12' ceiling garage would probably cost $10k less then a 14'...but maybe stick built wouldn't be as expensive?
________
GLASS WEED PIPE
 
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bmwpower

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Mrchurch117

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hi bmw i saw your garage and have been following the build. im a senior in high school and i am doing a research project on the design and build of a profesional garage. yours definitly qualifies as a profesional quality garage and was wondering if you had anymore pictures, info, prices, companies you used, or something you would see as useful that i could use you as a source.
 
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bmwpower

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Mrchurch117 said:
hi bmw i saw your garage and have been following the build. im a senior in high school and i am doing a research project on the design and build of a profesional garage. yours definitly qualifies as a profesional quality garage and was wondering if you had anymore pictures, info, prices, companies you used, or something you would see as useful that i could use you as a source.

Thanks. I think everything you need is right here in this thread. If you need pictures of something specific, let me know.
 

GTRClive

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bmwpower said:
Thanks. I think everything you need is right here in this thread. If you need pictures of something specific, let me know.

Hi, I live in the UK at present but I'm Emigrating to Calgary in June...
I bought an old Cottage in the UK, and Built a 35x16 garage at the side.. It was all the land that was left, UK Land Pricing is Astonomical.....

I have no Idea How much a Wood structure would cost to build... So was woundering if you have a Ball Park figure on your project, with out all the lovly internal dressings.... I did most of the work on My Garage as well....
 
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bmwpower

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GTRClive said:
Hi, I live in the UK at present but I'm Emigrating to Calgary in June...
I bought an old Cottage in the UK, and Built a 35x16 garage at the side.. It was all the land that was left, UK Land Pricing is Astonomical.....

I have no Idea How much a Wood structure would cost to build... So was woundering if you have a Ball Park figure on your project, with out all the lovly internal dressings.... I did most of the work on My Garage as well....

Unfortunately, I don't have not tabulated my records to be able to give you an answer. But if I had to guess, it's probably around $10-15K in structure alone.
 
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bmwpower

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Absolutely awesome build, documentation, etc. Any updates?

Cheers,
Darren


Thanks!

The only thing I've done in some time is to mount a Ridgid vise. I will be updating the thread sometime soon with this info, but there already is another thread on the subject.

Still need to finish in window/door trim with the rosettes, too.
 
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StanBo

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I hate to be a pain but none of your pictures are working for me. Are they still hosted on the same location as first posted?

I just started reading this thread and just joined the site. Loving it so far :bounce:
 
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bmwpower

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I hate to be a pain but none of your pictures are working for me. Are they still hosted on the same location as first posted?

I just started reading this thread and just joined the site. Loving it so far :bounce:

Yes, picture source hasn't changed. I don't know why it is, but if I load a picture individually (right click on the pict to copy address and load it in a new window), the picture comes up. Then I refresh the page and all the pictures come up. BS Comcast is going thru some sort of upgrade and my account has been affected ever since.

Please try the method above to reload the picts and let me know if it works for you....more firepower for me when I call them on Monday.

Thanks for the compliments! Trying to get some projects sold/built so the garage is packed with stuff. I need to update some things, but I haven't had the chance yet.
 

GunMoto

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No words can describe the amount of planning you invested into this project. This is all I can offer: :bowdown:

Awesome shots...it's certainly refreshing to see that shop put to use :thumbup:
 
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bmwpower

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No words can describe the amount of planning you invested into this project. This is all I can offer: :bowdown:

Awesome shots...it's certainly refreshing to see that shop put to use :thumbup:

Thanks! A lot of sweat and tears, that's for sure.
 

Stärke

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postdigger.gif


So any progress yet?
 

jhn9840

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Somehow missed this thread until today. Great shop, everything built with quality and attention to detail. It's a great feeling when all the planning and hard labor finnally come together. The blue Rotary lift and Lista cabnets really set it off IMHO. Hope to see some more pics as it evolves.

jhn9840
John
 

ron in sc

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Armorseal 1000 HS holding up well? By my calculation you've had it down about 2 years. I ask because I'm considering it too, but in clear.
 
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bmwpower

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Armorseal 1000 HS holding up well? By my calculation you've had it down about 2 years. I ask because I'm considering it too, but in clear.

Holding up well. It's been 2 years already? Wow. Just seemed like yesterday that I put it down. I do have some areas where the surface has chipped, but I've either dropped a pair of cutters from high up or something else with a sharp edge. Also, it appears that I may also have a slight "dusting" of the top surface because when I take a look at the floor from where the chip has been removed, it's crumbly.

I'm very pleased with it to date. I've come accustomed to getting it really filthy with all kinds of stuff. Chemically it's held up great except for a couple of areas where I let stuff sit for months or under something else preventing it from evaporating or drying up. Coolant under a piece of hardwood comes to mind.

I'm not sure if these properties I've noticed are due to the cold temperature in which I coated the floor or the slab itself. In either case it hasn't kept me from using the floor to the fullest extent.

The great thing about ArmorSeal is you can get it locally for a decent price (been around for years and should continue to be) and cover up any damage.

I wouldn't use the clear. I don't believe it's meant for "outside" use. Probably something to do with the UV properties and/or yellowing that may occur.
 

ron in sc

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don't believe it's meant for "outside" use.

If I use it I will be using it inside garage. My theory is clear will be easier to repair. Also the way my concrete was finished its kind of marblized and I don't mind the look of concrete. Of couse I will have to acid etch or shot blast.
 

ron in sc

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bmwpower,

You indicated it earlier posts you used grinder and also did acid etch. What were the factors that made you decide to do both?
 
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bmwpower

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bmwpower,

You indicated it earlier posts you used grinder and also did acid etch. What were the factors that made you decide to do both?

The EDCO grinder was used due to the fact that my floor surface was pretty crappy - a lot of trowel marks and unlevel areas. The acid etch was used per directions to help the coating adhere to the floor.
 

ron in sc

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EDCO grinder was used due to the fact that my floor surface was pretty crappy

The surface of my concrete is relatively smooth, it was power trowelled and it's level.

I think I would prefer to just use grinder to avoid fumes and mess created with acid etch. Also I read that grinding is preferable way to prepare floor to coating.
 
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bmwpower

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The surface of my concrete is relatively smooth, it was power trowelled and it's level.

I think I would prefer to just use grinder to avoid fumes and mess created with acid etch. Also I read that grinding is preferable way to prepare floor to coating.

Shot blast...maybe. Grinder - no way. The grinder is more muscle than anything else. The acid etch is what you need. After you etch, the floor is left with a micro-rough texture. Tiny indentations are what help the epoxy hold to the floor. Also, the fumes are really not that bad. Do you need a mask? Sure, but once the acid is neutralized the smell pretty much goes away. Also, the grinder is in no way a "clean" process. It puts off a LOT of dust as shown earlier in my thread. Even further supporting the fact, if you're floor is nice and smooth and you're not careful with the grinder, you can score the surface and the epoxy will not cover such imperfections.

Hope this helps.
 

ron in sc

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Hope this helps.

It definately does.

I called the tech support people in Cleveland and they told me just what you said regarding the acid etch. They said the grinding was not necessary in my case.
 
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