Bonding screw stripped in panel

[jhcrowman]

Installing a new 200 amp service panel and when tightening the bonding screw on the neutral buss, the screw just spins and won't bite into the panel case. I guess I cranked down on it too much?
If I understand NEC 250.28 I should be able to add a bonding strap in its place, correct? see picture as an example.
I'm assuming I'd have to drill and tap either 8/32 or 10/32 depending on the screw size on the strap to get the correct number of threads in the metal case? Or would a self-tapping machine screw work just as well?
I'd appreciate any suggestions.
thanks!

 

[rlitman]

If the screw is an 8-32, just run a 10-32 tap in the hole and buy a green 10-32 screw to put in its place.

 

[sberry]

No self drilling screws. I might say yes to a chunk of wire between bars. Put in ground bar which I like to do sometimes anyway depending on the style of panel. I added a bar to a panel job recently, it was so congested it let me take out a gob of wire and get the neutral spaces back I needed.

 

[Jim greengo]

Some times they're hard to start,push harder on it.
Are you in the right hole?

 

[bubinga]

Some times they're hard to start,push harder on it.
Are you in the right hole?

Hey now! Kids might be reading. LMAO,!

Sent from my A502DL using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[sparky 1971]

I had one strip out on me once. I just jumped a piece of #4 copper from the neutral bar to the ground bar. Do you still have a little piece left from the ground rods?

I would try pushing hard on the screw while turning it first. They are a ***** to get started sometimes. (post #4)

The panel isn't thick enough to use that screw. Two threads need to make contact with the panel. That is why there are the raised "*******" on the back wherever there are screws that go through it.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

are you using the same length screws as pictured? If so, it looks a little short since the neutral bar is on an insulating riser.

 

[sparky 1971]

are you using the same length screws as pictured? If so, it looks a little short since the neutral bar is on an insulating riser.

I think he's wanting to know if he can drill and tap the can for that screw so he can use the bonding strap to the neutral bar.

 

[Jim greengo]

Do you have a picture of your actual panel?

 

[Jim greengo]

Hey now! Kids might be reading. LMAO,!

Sent from my A502DL using The Garage Journal mobile app

Yeah I thought about that!

 

[sparky 1971]

Do you have a picture of your actual panel?

That is his panel. (one of them anyway). See the detached workshop power thread.

 

[bubinga]

Yeah I thought about that!

LOL

Sent from my A502DL using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[jhcrowman]

I posted a picture on the first post - it shows as an attachment instead of an imbedded image.
I pushed hard on the screw while turning - it just gets to the point where it starts to feel tight and goes loose again. There's another panel right next to this one and I didn't have any problems tightening that bonding screw.
I'm pretty sure the screw is 10/32. I've opened a case with Siemens to see if their tech support has any suggestions.
I like the suggestion to run #4 solid between neutral bar and ground bar. 250.28 does say the bonding jumper shall be a "wire, bus, screw, or similar suitable conductor". That would be the easiest solution by far. I'll run that by the inspector to be sure he's okay with that.
thanks all!

 

[bubinga]

I posted a picture on the first post - it shows as an attachment instead of an imbedded image.
I pushed hard on the screw while turning - it just gets to the point where it starts to feel tight and goes loose again. There's another panel right next to this one and I didn't have any problems tightening that bonding screw.
I'm pretty sure the screw is 10/32. I've opened a case with Siemens to see if their tech support has any suggestions.
I like the suggestion to run #4 solid between neutral bar and ground bar. 250.28 does say the bonding jumper shall be a "wire, bus, screw, or similar suitable conductor". That would be the easiest solution by far. I'll run that by the inspector to be sure he's okay with that.
thanks all!

This is a Main Right?

 

[sparky 1971]

I posted a picture on the first post - it shows as an attachment instead of an imbedded image.
I pushed hard on the screw while turning - it just gets to the point where it starts to feel tight and goes loose again. There's another panel right next to this one and I didn't have any problems tightening that bonding screw.
I'm pretty sure the screw is 10/32. I've opened a case with Siemens to see if their tech support has any suggestions.
I like the suggestion to run #4 solid between neutral bar and ground bar. 250.28 does say the bonding jumper shall be a "wire, bus, screw, or similar suitable conductor". That would be the easiest solution by far. I'll run that by the inspector to be sure he's okay with that.
thanks all!

I would just put the #4 jumper on and forget about it. If the inspector asks about it just tell him what happened. Otherwise, don't say a word.

As far as Siemens, they will probably offer to send you a new panel. I wouldn't want to go to the work of changing it out over a stripped screw hole.

 

[sberry]

It aint like its not done several ways, would use a wire too. Not violating some major principle and leaving an ambush.

 

[Terry D]

Some times they're hard to start,push harder on it.
Are you in the right hole?

That's what she said.

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, you should be able to drill the Panel and tap fr the next larger sized screw.

 

[bubinga]

IMHO, you should be able to drill the Panel and tap fr the next larger sized screw.