You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Bought Bridgeport Clone - Now Getting it Set Up for Basic Machining
- Thread starter bulletpruf
- Start date
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
I really doubt either repair are going to cost very much. Other than the head internals, these are not complicated machines.
On the head tilt problem, you let it down for transport, so it worked but the little shaft holding the worm gear is not really up to tilting all that weight back to vertical without manually helping take up the weight.
The shaft maybe the same dimensions as a BP, and I bought it for 30 bucks. If not, one could be made very simply.
The head tilted down slowly until something let go and then it tilted very quickly!
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Or just get the head back to vertical with an engine hoist, snug it up a little and Tram it in with a soft hammer. Repair it later. Not ideal but doable. Then focus on the knee. I agree it’s probably a sheer pin. Might need to pull the table. Good chance to clean it up and make sure the lube system is working. And you will already have the engine hoist set up. Could probably be back in business in a day.
I watched a video on pulling the table and the knee. Didn't seem to be that difficult.
Thanks
Cruzan80
Well-known member
More bulky and a second set of hands helps. Having a rolling cart nearby and building it up so the table doesn't have to move much vertically is ideal.
Remember, always watch your fingers/toes when lifting/moving this stuff. If it shifts in a way you don't expect, you could be in a lot of hurt real quick!
Remember, always watch your fingers/toes when lifting/moving this stuff. If it shifts in a way you don't expect, you could be in a lot of hurt real quick!
It broke! You have to support the head by hand beyond a certain amount. As mentioned, solicit some help and just get it rotated back up. It can be repaired later!The head tilted down slowly until something let go and then it tilted very quickly!
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
It broke! You have to support the head by hand beyond a certain amount. As mentioned, solicit some help and just get it rotated back up. It can be repaired later!
I rotated it back into position a few weeks ago and snugged the bolts down. Not too difficult to do by myself.
Thanks
alfadan
Well-known member
Seems you'll have to fix those buggered chip plates anyhow. Good winter project and to inspect stuff. I'd like to see your reaction to all the pounds of chips inside the knee!I watched a video on pulling the table and the knee. Didn't seem to be that difficult.
Thanks
I used an engine hoist on mine.
RoninB4
Well-known member
Perhaps others haven't needed to but I've swung the turret, extended/retracted the horizontal ram, nodded/rotated the head more times than I'd care to count. That's not a brag, it's just the variety and type of work that needed to be done. That capability is one of the few strong points about the BP design, it can easily adapt/change to the work. Other milling machines can take bigger cuts, have greater accuracy, or have greater travel distances. The ease of versatility in the BP is a strong point. You can set the head to tram and ignore the repair for now if you want to but unless you've got a priority job for it I'd be inclined to evaluate/repair it as soon as possible or you're missing out on great number of possibilities by having the head "locked in". That's JMO, hope it's not an expensive repair.
alfadan
Well-known member
Mine was obviously very used in an industrial environment. It was amazing the wear along the whole surface of the adjusting worm gear. It didn't ge that worn just by tramming.Perhaps others haven't needed to but I've swung the turret, extended/retracted the horizontal ram, nodded/rotated the head more times than I'd care to count. That's not a brag, it's just the variety and type of work that needed to be done. That capability is one of the few strong points about the BP design, it can easily adapt/change to the work. Other milling machines can take bigger cuts, have greater accuracy, or have greater travel distances. The ease of versatility in the BP is a strong point. You can set the head to tram and ignore the repair for now if you want to but unless you've got a priority job for it I'd be inclined to evaluate/repair it as soon as possible or you're missing out on great number of possibilities by having the head "locked in". That's JMO, hope it's not an expensive repair.
Plus I'd not like having to tram without the functioning adjuster, it's enough a PITA with it working!
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
Another reason to fix it now is parts availability. My Ex-Cell-O 602 mill has a proprietary spring for the quill return that is known for breaking. When I first bought my mill I looked for a replacement spring so I’d have a spare if and when I needed it. Found some were available so I didn’t buy one at that time. Two years later none available. Seems the guy selling them was the actual manufacturer of them from day one and now he retired and no more springs…. EVER! I snoozed, I loosed! Hopefully the BP world isn’t as bad, but the guys making this stuff are not immortal.
RoninB4
Well-known member
-This is a very good point to make. I've also lost out on things that were available THEN and not NOW. Whether it's computer programs no longer supported, parts for motorcycles, cars, or machinery there's somebody creating a solution or replacement for something not readily available. So a batch gets made and when the maker feels the market is saturated that's the end of availability. Good reason to buy a spare that becomes unobtanium. Ask some of the Deckel/Maho guys about that.Another reason to fix it now is parts availability. My Ex-Cell-O 602 mill has a proprietary spring for the quill return that is known for breaking. When I first bought my mill I looked for a replacement spring so I’d have a spare if and when I needed it. Found some were available so I didn’t buy one at that time. Two years later none available. Seems the guy selling them was the actual manufacturer of them from day one and now he retired and no more springs…. EVER! I snoozed, I loosed! Hopefully the BP world isn’t as bad, but the guys making this stuff are not immortal.
The question I would have is "Can you tram the head?". This is a slippery slope that you are on. I know others have responded that it won't cost much to fix what is wrong with your inexpensive milling machine. My argument to that would be to buy a Milling machine that you know parts are available for before you need them. I would be willing to guess that the tolerances on an import machine are bigger than more expensive machines that have tighter tolerances. Putting BP parts on an inexpensive import is the equivalent of putting a $100 dollar saddle on a $10 dollar horse.I rotated it back into position a few weeks ago and snugged the bolts down. Not too difficult to do by myself.
Thanks
There are some things you can go cheap on but I have never regretted the money I have spent on my Bridgeport and my Clausing and South Bend Heavy 10 lathes.
I hope it works out for you.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
No need to guess. I posted the tolerances from the factory upthread. Everything I have seen is that these are built to the same level as a BP. If you have the factory tolerances for your BP, we can easily compare. Otherwise you are making assumptions, simply based on your bias for old MiUS machines.I would be willing to guess that the tolerances on an import machine are bigger than more expensive machines that have tighter tolerances.
That’s not the case at all. A lot of those imports are much nicer than a real Bridgeport. Just because they invented it doesn’t make them the best.The question I would have is "Can you tram the head?". This is a slippery slope that you are on. I know others have responded that it won't cost much to fix what is wrong with your inexpensive milling machine. My argument to that would be to buy a Milling machine that you know parts are available for before you need them. I would be willing to guess that the tolerances on an import machine are bigger than more expensive machines that have tighter tolerances. Putting BP parts on an inexpensive import is the equivalent of putting a $100 dollar saddle on a $10 dollar horse.
There are some things you can go cheap on but I have never regretted the money I have spent on my Bridgeport and my Clausing and South Bend Heavy 10 lathes.
I hope it works out for you.
I just refreshed the top and bottom of a variable speed Webb. Meehanite castings and chrome/Turcite ways come standard! Beautiful machines, as are the Sharps and Acras.
There’s a good chance B’port parts fit, if not H&W can point him in the right direction.
The tilt gear and worm aren’t high tech parts.
A teardown and deep cleaning is necessary on an older machine, even Bridgeports! H&W comes to the rescue again with fantastic tear down videos. It’s one of the best ways to learn a machine!
whateg01
Well-known member
I bought my Newport for $1000. I have never regretted the money I have spent on it or my broken-down-when-I-bought-it 10ee. I know people who put Lexus wheels on their Toyota. And I guess it makes them happy. I'm ok with that.The question I would have is "Can you tram the head?". This is a slippery slope that you are on. I know others have responded that it won't cost much to fix what is wrong with your inexpensive milling machine. My argument to that would be to buy a Milling machine that you know parts are available for before you need them. I would be willing to guess that the tolerances on an import machine are bigger than more expensive machines that have tighter tolerances. Putting BP parts on an inexpensive import is the equivalent of putting a $100 dollar saddle on a $10 dollar horse.
There are some things you can go cheap on but I have never regretted the money I have spent on my Bridgeport and my Clausing and South Bend Heavy 10 lathes.
I hope it works out for you.
Tell me which imports you are talking about? Why would you look to H&W for service and parts if your imports are superior? Go cheap and be happy!! I hope it works out for you. I am happy with what I have and do not regret what I paid for my machines.That’s not the case at all. A lot of those imports are much nicer than a real Bridgeport. Just because they invented it doesn’t make them the best.
I just refreshed the top and bottom of a variable speed Webb. Meehanite castings and chrome/Turcite ways come standard! Beautiful machines, as are the Sharps and Acras.
There’s a good chance B’port parts fit, if not H&W can point him in the right direction.
The tilt gear and worm aren’t high tech parts.
A teardown and deep cleaning is necessary on an older machine, even Bridgeports! H&W comes to the rescue again with fantastic tear down videos. It’s one of the best ways to learn a machine!
All the best.
Tom
If you have a Sharps or Acra machine, go to them for parts and service. Why would you go to H&W????Tell me which imports you are talking about? Why would you look to H&W for service and parts if your imports are superior? Go cheap and be happy!! I hope it works out for you. I am happy with what I have and do not regret what I paid for my machines.
All the best.
Tom
Cruzan80
Well-known member
No one is saying you should not be happy with what you bought. But nobody has made Monarchs or South Bends or (insert old US brand here) for a long time. So condition definitely plays a part, and newer machine generally have less wear/tear.Tell me which imports you are talking about? Why would you look to H&W for service and parts if your imports are superior? Go cheap and be happy!! I hope it works out for you. I am happy with what I have and do not regret what I paid for my machines.
All the best.
Tom
This is not the first time though you have claimed that "inexpensive imports don't hold the same tolerances". I have posted QC paperwork from my Comet, still waiting to see what Bridgeport tolerances from the factory are for the same era (Mine is May '85). Otherwise, it is simple bias on your end against these "cheap imports".
alfadan
Well-known member
H&W is not solely a BP shop.
Would you say that Phase II tool posts and holders are as good as Aloris? There is no comparison. I have not owned a Comet or any Chinesium machines so I cannot compare it to what I used professionally or personally, but I am happy for you that you like what you own, and you should be.No one is saying you should not be happy with what you bought. But nobody has made Monarchs or South Bends or (insert old US brand here) for a long time. So condition definitely plays a part, and newer machine generally have less wear/tear.
This is not the first time though you have claimed that "inexpensive imports don't hold the same tolerances". I have posted QC paperwork from my Comet, still waiting to see what Bridgeport tolerances from the factory are for the same era (Mine is May '85). Otherwise, it is simple bias on your end against these "cheap imports".
You are correct.H&W is not solely a BP shop.
They service more than Bridgeport and some parts do cross over to imports.Tell me which imports you are talking about? Why would you look to H&W for service and parts if your imports are superior? Go cheap and be happy!! I hope it works out for you. I am happy with what I have and do not regret what I paid for my machines.
All the best.
Tom
Beyond that, there’s no reason to be a condescending elitist. We all understand you’re the smartest with all the best tools and everyone should follow your lead.
Now Thumper, if you can’t say something nice, don’t say anything at all!
Cruzan80
Well-known member
So because some things that are imports are not to the same quality, everything must be "cheap imports". Got it.Would you say that Phase II tool posts and holders are as good as Aloris? There is no comparison. I have not owned a Comet or any Chinesium machines so I cannot compare it to what I used professionally or personally, but I am happy for you that you like what you own, and you should be.
Maybe stick to things you have tried and know there is a quality difference, insstead of repeatedly claiming these are inferior to a BP, without evidence.
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Thanks for the continued input. I'm working on getting the shop wired - if anyone here has electrical experience, input is welcomed - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/wiring-for-20-x-50-shop-110-and-240.540915/ - and once that's done, I'll turn my attention to the mill.
My plan is still to disassemble (only as much as needed), clean, inspect, repair, and reassemble.
Scott
My plan is still to disassemble (only as much as needed), clean, inspect, repair, and reassemble.
Scott
At a minimum, pull the table and saddle, clean everything and confirm all of the oil meters are delivering way oil.My plan is still to disassemble (only as much as needed), clean, inspect, repair, and reassemble.
Scott