To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

BP&B Hobby Shop

bulletpruf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
10,929
Location
San Antonio
Love the '64! I've wanted one for a while but have stuck with the 66-67's.

385 series motor is just too darn wide for shock tower cars. I had a 514 in my 67. Regretted it; should have gone with a stout Windsor instead.

Anyway, the engine is a no-brainer for me -- if you do the Thunderbolt clone (would be authentic since it's the rarer sedan body), go with an old school FE. If you're going to drive it, have something that will take a corner, etc., definitely get rid of the shock towers and go with an IFS, along with a stroked Windsor.

How clean is the body? Floors and cowl good?

Scott
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Love the '64! I've wanted one for a while but have stuck with the 66-67's.

385 series motor is just too darn wide for shock tower cars. I had a 514 in my 67. Regretted it; should have gone with a stout Windsor instead.

Anyway, the engine is a no-brainer for me -- if you do the Thunderbolt clone (would be authentic since it's the rarer sedan body), go with an old school FE. If you're going to drive it, have something that will take a corner, etc., definitely get rid of the shock towers and go with an IFS, along with a stroked Windsor.

How clean is the body? Floors and cowl good?

Scott


I'm not going for a TBolt clone thats for sure. I am seriously leaning toward a stroked small block...whether it be a 302 or 351 block I'm not sure yet. Ford does have a pretty sweet 427 windsor based crate motor.

Front floors have had some work done on them, I'll end up cutting all that out and starting over. They also hacked up the trans tunnel when they were trying to get the 460 to fit. I do have a 4dr parts car that I can cut the section I need out of to repair that area. Front rails appear solid. The rear are soft around the rear shackle mounts, but by back halving it all that will get cut out anyway. One quarter has had some patch work that I can see. Im sure there will be other surprises once its stripped there always is.
 

SteveH-CO

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Messages
283
Location
Southern Colorado
Re-read this thread. Very nice work throughout. I like stock, but your good taste makes your custom mods look very natural and appropriate. The satin tone on the tow truck looks just right. The wrecker bits in the back make it look like 'something' rather than just another empty old pickup.

The shock tower mods on the '64 would be funny if they weren't tragic. But, that primo 'brace' makes up for all that, eh?
 

TimeWarpF100

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
6,784
Location
not here
Been busy replacing the windows and residing my house recently so I haven't
spent much time in the shop. I did just get done pulling the transmission out of the E100. The clutch lever either broke or never had its retaining clip and allowed it to disengage the throwout bearing, which meant I lost the clutch.




I was able to locate a box of NOS spring clips



Since it was apart went ahead a bought a clutch kit and had the flywheel resurfaced


Here's a little trick for removing a pilot bushing. Find a steel rod that fits tight in the bushing, fill the inside of the bushing with a slice of bread then drive the rod in. The bread will compact and push the bushing out. Its a lot easier to clean up afterword compared to the old grease trick.



Its back together now and works as it should, much better feeling clutch pedal.

Lastly a few pics of the Econoline and the '50 Wrecker at a couple old gas stations along the original Lincoln Highway old US 30 here in central Iowa








Love the Projects! Especially the wrecker.
 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Re-read this thread. Very nice work throughout. I like stock, but your good taste makes your custom mods look very natural and appropriate. The satin tone on the tow truck looks just right. The wrecker bits in the back make it look like 'something' rather than just another empty old pickup.

The shock tower mods on the '64 would be funny if they weren't tragic. But, that primo 'brace' makes up for all that, eh?

Thanks for taking an interest and the kind words. Had I not planned on doing an IFS setup on the fairlane the cut up towers could have been a deal breaker on that car. I really don't like messing with cars others have started, but 2dr sedans are getting harder to come by these days. The tower brace was defiantly something to be proud of :wtf:

What's the story on the 460? Stock 2 bolt block? What heads does it have D0VE? D3VE? D0OER?

Scott

Really don't know anything about it. I was told it ran, but I never tried to start it. It looks pretty stock other than the weiand intake. The carb tag has a D4 part number so at least the carb came from a '74 motor. I'll probably throw it up on craigslist and unload it.

Love the Projects! Especially the wrecker.

Thanks, your build thread is one of my favorites :thumbup:
 

bulletpruf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
10,929
Location
San Antonio
Really don't know anything about it. I was told it ran, but I never tried to start it. It looks pretty stock other than the weiand intake. The carb tag has a D4 part number so at least the carb came from a '74 motor. I'll probably throw it up on craigslist and unload it.

Most folks are going to want to know what heads it has. Should be cast into the heads - D0VE-C (small chambers, good heads), D3VE (good heads, open chamber), D2OEA (I think I butchered this one, but it's close - these are Police Interceptor heads), D0OE-R (Cobra Jet heads), D2VE (lousy heads).

The PI and CJ heads bring some coin - maybe $500 for PI and $800 for CJ? Also, the block is most likely a 2 bolt, but it's worth pulling the pan off. 4 bolt blocks are out there and bring up to $1k for a good one.

Scott
 

C91x

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 26, 2015
Messages
267
Location
Prescott Valley
Love your projects and we have similar taste in cars.. I have a 48 f1 i'm building now and a 66 fairlane thats "finished".


By the way I looked at your ebay auction and your description of driver quality is very different than what most call driver quality.. Beautiful bronco
 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Well had an inventory reduction sale...sold the Bronco & the F3 tow truck. Found and purchased a 1960 F100 that will take over the shop truck duties. Planning on doing an IFS front suspension either a mustang II style or possibly a crown vic IFS swap. Flip the rear axle and c-notch the frame. Pull the 223 I6 out and replace it with a 289/c4 combo.





It's a shame the drivers side was hit at some point. For a Minnesota truck its a really solid old truck. It did come with a door and cab corner section to fix the damage







 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Got started on the new shop truck, replaced the fuel pump on the old 6 cylinder and got it running. Seems to run pretty good and drive as good as a stock 1960 F100 should. Surprisingly the brakes and clutch work good. I pulled the bed off yesterday and done some pulls on the cab corner.






Was able to get the buckle out of the floor pretty well.
Before


After


I thought at first I may have to replace the step and filler panel, but I think it pulled out well enough that I'll only have to section in a rear pillar and cab corner.
 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Sorry no 6 cylinder for this guy :beer: Some of the parts that have shown up this week for the Fridge. Edelbrock top end kit, Pertronix Distributor, motor mounts, trans cross member, cab corners, cab mounts and a few other goodies for the 289.












My father has the 289 torn down and ready to go to the machine shop. I suspected that this engine had never been apart when I pulled it from the 64 Fairlane parts car & it turns out I was right. Still had c3 part numbers on the bearings. Block looks very good.



 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Forgot to mention the plans for the suspension, I will be hitting the local salvage yards next week on the hunt for a 03+ crown vic k member like pictured below



Out back I'm going to flip the axle and do a mild c-notch. Picked up some brackets from Speedway for the axle flip


 

dr_clyde

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
6,431
Location
Holland, MI
This is awesome. I have a 59 ford that is near identical. Mines a stepside tho. What in particular do you like about the Crown Vic front suspension? I'm looking to do something similar to mine as far as suspension is concerned.
 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
This is awesome. I have a 59 ford that is near identical. Mines a stepside tho. What in particular do you like about the Crown Vic front suspension? I'm looking to do something similar to mine as far as suspension is concerned.

There are a lot of benefits of the CV IFS swap, you'll easily yield 5+ inches of drop, power rack & pinion steering, disc brakes, sway bar and they are plentiful and cheap. I located one today 20 miles from me for $250 bucks for a complete K member rotor to rotor. It is pretty much a direct bolt on swap with minimal fabrication required. (box the frame & add a couple spacers to the top of the frame) Aftermarket drop spindles and/or drop springs are available so you can fine tune you're ride height even more. The only real draw back is the bolt pattern which is a 5x4.5 so you'll either have to swap the rearend or run adapters. You also have to run newer style positive offset wheels.

Pic of one installed in an F100 frame
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Working on fitting up the cab corner & door on the F100. Blasted the cab corner before I cut it away from from the floor section. All of the inner cab corner and floor pulled out nicely so I won't be needing any of it.





Initial fit up of the cab corner & door post. The door opening measures out spot on.



Pretty decent door gaps for the first fit up. A couple areas need a little attention.



Inside of the original door shows how hard of a hit this old girl took.


 

Ohmthis

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2013
Messages
3,009
Location
Outside of Louisville KY
Op, I'm interested in seeing the wheels you pick out for the CV front end. I have a 66 f100 and have been doing a lot of research on IFS swaps for it. What has turned me off is how the trucks look with the wide stance. Maybe a different set of wheels would change the look a little. Are you going to install a mod motor? I know they already fit and your mounts are already there. This has really got me hooked on this build. Thanks for posting!
 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Op, I'm interested in seeing the wheels you pick out for the CV front end. I have a 66 f100 and have been doing a lot of research on IFS swaps for it. What has turned me off is how the trucks look with the wide stance. Maybe a different set of wheels would change the look a little. Are you going to install a mod motor? I know they already fit and your mounts are already there. This has really got me hooked on this build. Thanks for posting!

I don't disagree about the positive offset wheels...they have had to grow on me over the past few years. Depending on the color I end up choosing I may either go with a set of Crown Vic police interceptor steel wheels with the chrome center caps or possibly a set of late model Mustang GT take offs like pictured below




The yellow/white truck is sitting on a CV frame. IMO they should have swapped the rearend out of an older CV with the narrower 8.8 instead of flaring out the bedsides to get wheel clearance.

This is about the cleanest CV IFS swap I've seen. I really like how they stepped up the frame instead of just adding spacers like a lot of people do. I'm definitely going to steal that idea.


[/URL

Motor wise it will be a 289/C4 combo. I'm going to keep the original 9" & just run adapters to get the 4.5 bolt pattern to match the CV front.
 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Started pulling off the front sheet metal. There defiantly wasn't a nut & bolt shortage back in the 50's. There had to be at least 30 1/4" bolts just holding the grill on :scared:






Going to have some panels to fabricate to fix some rust in the lower rad. support and door posts


 

xtremek

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Messages
11,603
Location
St. Johns, Mi
I thought about this spacers to get the CV to fit on to the frame. I have a third alternative. What if you made a plate that was the same width as the frame and was as long as the k member, hollow out the middle so it doesn't weigh a ton? It would look better than 2 spacers, but would be easier than modifing the frame. Just a thought.
 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
I thought about this spacers to get the CV to fit on to the frame. I have a third alternative. What if you made a plate that was the same width as the frame and was as long as the k member, hollow out the middle so it doesn't weigh a ton? It would look better than 2 spacers, but would be easier than modifing the frame. Just a thought.

I'm kinda thinking something along that idea, basically just building the spacers then when I box the frame cover it all up so its nice and clean. That's basically what the guy done in the pics I had posted



Pulled the motor & trans out yesterday, if anybody is needing a complete good running 223 with a manual 3 speed hit me up. 70K miles on the odometer.




Bagged & tagged everything..cause even though you think you'll remember you don't.



Rolled it outside to soak it down with some Superclean & power wash it




Blasted the front rails after it dried out



Out with the old...




Ready and waiting on the CV IFS to show up



 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Got the call from the salvage yard this morning that they had the Crown Vic K-member pulled and ready to be picked up. Its funny how every yard imaginable has them till you need one. Found a couple in the Des Moines metro & they were both in the $600 range. Finally found this one in a yard about 90 miles east of me for $350. It came out of an 06 cop car.



Mocked it up so I could get an idea how much steel I need to buy tomorrow to make the spacers and box the frame.



Couldn't resist not throwing a wheel & fender on it





Just about a 5" drop

 

Ohmthis

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2013
Messages
3,009
Location
Outside of Louisville KY
Great job on the body fix. I will be watching the IFS swap. I also love the plans to make the spacers finished off better. I've seen a few different looks in how the back mounts are made and attached, curious on yours. Are you planning to use spacers on the rear to bring the wheels out and also match the bolt pattern? Keep up all of the awesome work!
 

MP&C

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
4,399
Location
Leonardtown, MD
Nice job on the B pillar repairs. My apprentice Kyle has a 57 that he plans on using same front suspension. Thanks for being the guinea pig, we're taking notes! :thumbup:
 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Great job on the body fix. I will be watching the IFS swap. I also love the plans to make the spacers finished off better. I've seen a few different looks in how the back mounts are made and attached, curious on yours. Are you planning to use spacers on the rear to bring the wheels out and also match the bolt pattern? Keep up all of the awesome work!

I'm still a little undecided on the rear. I either will have to buy adapters & upgrade the carrier for posi in the 9 inch or find an 02 or older CV cop car & get the 8.8 out of it. The 8.8 would probably be the cheaper route.
 
OP
H

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
Making some progress on IFS swap. After double checking every measurement possible including the wheelbase. I was finally satisfied with its position and drilled the lower holes & temporarily bolted it up.



Instead of going the spacer or washer route I decided to make some pedestals for the upper mounting points. I bought 2x2 1/4 wall square tube and cut it down. I left it 3/16ths short to leave room for when its boxed




Put a couple pieces of 1x .120 wall tube inside the frame rails to tie everything together



All the 3/16ths boxing plates made and tacked together





Welded up & finished out. One side done now on to the other


 

xtremek

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Messages
11,603
Location
St. Johns, Mi
20151024_181435_zpspyt4yakb.jpg
[/URL]

Looks great. I think it'd look better if you carried the boxing plate forward to the next x-member.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom