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BP&B Hobby Shop

Ohmthis

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Joe, can we get a shot down the side view? I'm curious to see just how far out the wheels and tires stick out. I love the stance of the rear. Two more inches in the front will tie it perfectly. Thanks for the updates!!!
 
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HD FLHX

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Joe, can we get a shot down the side view? I'm curious to see just how far out the wheels and tires stick out. I love the stance of the rear. Two more inches in the front will tie it perfectly. Thanks for the updates!!!

This is the only pic I got before I took it back apart. The front wheels are right at the fender edge. I'm going to have to massage the fenders a bit to be able to tuck the front wheels inside the fender wells.

 
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HD FLHX

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Its in the put it together.. take it back apart stage. Pulling everything back apart to remove the cab from the frame.






Gantry crane sure does make life easier






Flipped the cab on its back to replace the front cab mounts



It no wonder they rust out so bad on these truck :sad:



Once the old one was taken off I noticed an issue with the replacement from LMC. The replacement mounts are flat on the bottom where they weld to the floor :wtf:




So to get these to work I had to cut out the floor section that had the hump in it and sectioned in a flat piece of sheet metal so the cab mount would sit flat against the floor.




Took a large washer and welded it to a piece of 1x sqaure tube to act as a sleeve inside the mount so the bolt won't crush the floor and new cab mount when its tightened down




Now its onto the passengers side

 
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HD FLHX

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Not a lot of progress this week on the F100 since the day job is getting in the way at the moment :(

Did get away a little early yesterday and took advantage of a 45* January day to blast the underside of the cab and firewall



A few new parts came in. First was the rear disc brake set from Powerstop for the 8.8



And new upper control arms for the front
 

Model A Fan

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NW Washington
Joe, I read through the entire thread from beginning to end and loved seeing all the different projects you were working on. Thank you for taking the time to show us the fabrication of the different projects you worked on. It was especially nice to see how you manufactured the patch panels and then welded them in. It was very helpful to see how you progressed from old to new looking. I'm currently working on a 1931 Model A Roadster, so it was fun to see all the different Ford projects. The fact you took the time to take high quality photos and post them is also really helpful.

I thoroughly enjoyed the thread and am looking forward to future projects you will be working on.

Keep up the good work! :rocker:
 
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HD FLHX

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Is it sufficient to keep up with your pressure pot and blasting? Or do you have to take breaks, or supplement it?

It keeps up just fine. I'm able to run an entire full tank of sand without stopping. When i do stop to refill the compresser only runs for another minute or so before its full and shuts off.
 

dkroth

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It keeps up just fine. I'm able to run an entire full tank of sand without stopping. When i do stop to refill the compresser only runs for another minute or so before its full and shuts off.

Joe,

What size/model pressure pot do you have? Any mods to it like a special nozzle?

What media do you use for general paint and rust clean-up?
 
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HD FLHX

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Joe,

What size/model pressure pot do you have? Any mods to it like a special nozzle?

What media do you use for general paint and rust clean-up?


The pressure pot I have is the 110lb one from harbor frieght. I replaced the ball valve they come with at the nozzle with a deadman valve. For chassis parts or stuff like the cab floor I use a media called black blast. Its a very aggressive coal slag type media. For more delicate parts where warping is an issue I use a glass bead media.


 
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HD FLHX

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Progress I made on the right side cab mount/front pillar rebuild yesterday. Was moving right along till I ran out of shielding gas :sad:. Normally that wouldn't have been a big deal, but as luck would have it our Northern Tool store was out of full #4 bottles :mad:






 

1969

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Thanks for posting photos of your progress, I enjoy coming back to check on your work almost daily. Being an old Ford guy, I sure do like!
 
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HD FLHX

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Thanks for all the kind compliments. I may not comment on many threads, but I also enjoy seeing some of the great work that comes from this group.

Since I couldn't finish welding in the floor section, I spent some time mocking up the underdrive pulley set and brackets from March Performance.








Very well made and fit nicely :thumbup:
 

[email protected]

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Great work. It's nice to see there are still craftsman out there that hopefully others can learn a thing or two from either in person or by posts like this one that document masterful work.
 
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HD FLHX

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Joe -

Curious to hear what your day job is -- do you sit behind a desk or are you a body/paint guy by day as well?

Thanks

Scott

I was a bodyman for about 10 years. I worked in a Olds/Pontiac/Buick/GMC dealership. Started in an apprentice position and worked my way up to lead tech doing all the heavy hits. I was a combination man, meaning I done both the bodywork and paint work. I grew tired of constantly battling with insurance companies for a fair estimate, so I decided to make a change. I went to work for John Deere in a manufacturing facility as a production painter. I've been there about 12 yrs now. I spent the first 7 years in a liquid department spraying assembled machines. The last 5 years I've worked in a powder coat dept in various positions including time in the powder booths.

We build self propelled sprayers, cotton pickers, grain drills & tillage equipment.

 

bulletpruf

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I was a bodyman for about 10 years. I worked in a Olds/Pontiac/Buick/GMC dealership. Started in an apprentice position and worked my way up to lead tech doing all the heavy hits. I was a combination man, meaning I done both the bodywork and paint work. I grew tired of constantly battling with insurance companies for a fair estimate, so I decided to make a change. I went to work for John Deere in a manufacturing facility as a production painter. I've been there about 12 yrs now. I spent the first 7 years in a liquid department spraying assembled machines. The last 5 years I've worked in a powder coat dept in various positions including time in the powder booths.

We build self propelled sprayers, cotton pickers, grain drills & tillage equipment.

That sounds like a pretty cool job, and John Deere makes some great stuff. Good for you.
 
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HD FLHX

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Is that top one a cotton picker?

It is, that is our baler machine. It picks the cotton boil from the plant then shoots it up into a small basket up on top which feeds the round baler. Once the bale is made and wrapped it rolls it off the back. The machine never has to stop picking. Price tag on one is around $800K

hg-cp690-642x462-003.jpg
 

C_F

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Very cool, it would be neat to see one in action. I guess I could probably Youtube it...LOL


*edit* I did Youtube it this morning...it's a really amazing machine! On a side note, I had no idea Australia had such a large cotton industry.
 
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HD FLHX

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Finished welding in the right floor section & cab mount. Wire wheeled the entire underside to knock off the roughness left from media blasting. Then put 2 coats of a self-etching primer down. Pretty happy with how well the floor cleaned up for being 56 years old, just some very minor pitting that easily filled in with primer. I still have to fix some rust on the right side inner cab corner after the cab is set upright again.



 

bulletpruf

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Joe -

Question for you -- you mention some pitting that you filled in with primer, but you're also cutting old metal out for rust repair. Where's the cutoff (no pun intended) for metal you can keep versus metal you have to replace? In other words, when you are restoring a car, what's the worst amount of pitting you will accept on metal that you are not replacing?

Thanks,

Scott
 
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HD FLHX

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Joe -

Question for you -- you mention some pitting that you filled in with primer, but you're also cutting old metal out for rust repair. Where's the cutoff (no pun intended) for metal you can keep versus metal you have to replace? In other words, when you are restoring a car, what's the worst amount of pitting you will accept on metal that you are not replacing?

Thanks,

Scott

The pitting I mentioned was very minor caused by the surface rust. If the pitting is more like a crater or deep pitting then I cut it out and replace it. In this case a lot of what I had to replace was caused by the replacement cab mounts not being made right and following the floor shape. Had they fit only a small section of floor by the kick panels would have needed to be replaced.
 
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HD FLHX

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Flipped the cab back upright and finished up some rust repairs on the right lower door post this week.





This what happens when you need to recalibrate your tape measure :sad:



The second attempt was a little better




Another Summit order arrived this week with some Magnaflow mufflers, a 2.5" exhaust builders kit with mandrel bends, Milodon high flow water pump, and a few other little things






 
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HD FLHX

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You'll be mixing up primer soon! Looking good!

Man I hope so...I feel I'm about a month behind where I wanted to be by now. Life gets in the way sometimes I guess :(

Replaced the right side inner & outer cab corner.



These little Speed Blasters do such a nice job on small areas without making a mess and allow you to recycle your media





I thought I took a pic, but I guess I didn't :headscrat. After the inner section was welded in, I primed and rust proofed the inside area before the outer went on. I panel bonded the lower flange of the outer & welded up the upper seam and the area inside on the door post.

 

TimeWarpF100

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Man I hope so...I feel I'm about a month behind where I wanted to be by now. Life gets in the way sometimes I guess :(

Replaced the right side inner & outer cab corner.



These little Speed Blasters do such a nice job on small areas without making a mess and allow you to recycle your media





I thought I took a pic, but I guess I didn't :headscrat. After the inner section was welded in, I primed and rust proofed the inside area before the outer went on. I panel bonded the lower flange of the outer & welded up the upper seam and the area inside on the door post.


Fantastic metal work!

I check back daily for progress reports . .
 
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HD FLHX

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What media was used that left it rough?

Black blast

The pressure pot I have is the 110lb one from harbor frieght. I replaced the ball valve they come with at the nozzle with a deadman valve. For chassis parts or stuff like the cab floor I use a media called black blast. Its a very aggressive coal slag type media. For more delicate parts where warping is an issue I use a glass bead media.


 

bulletpruf

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The pitting I mentioned was very minor caused by the surface rust. If the pitting is more like a crater or deep pitting then I cut it out and replace it. In this case a lot of what I had to replace was caused by the replacement cab mounts not being made right and following the floor shape. Had they fit only a small section of floor by the kick panels would have needed to be replaced.

Thanks, Joe.

Scott
 

Bears Fan

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Indiana
Wow! Fantastic work on the truck cab, Looks like you have some pretty cool toys to play with at work too, I bet you have a great fab shop there at work :thumbup:
 

Deej-79

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While I may not care for some of the cars you pick your work appears to be top notch. Much respect sir.
 
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