Ohmthis
Well-known member
Joe, can we get a shot down the side view? I'm curious to see just how far out the wheels and tires stick out. I love the stance of the rear. Two more inches in the front will tie it perfectly. Thanks for the updates!!!
Joe, can we get a shot down the side view? I'm curious to see just how far out the wheels and tires stick out. I love the stance of the rear. Two more inches in the front will tie it perfectly. Thanks for the updates!!!



Quincy 5hp 2 stage 60 gallon vertical tank
Is it sufficient to keep up with your pressure pot and blasting? Or do you have to take breaks, or supplement it?
It keeps up just fine. I'm able to run an entire full tank of sand without stopping. When i do stop to refill the compresser only runs for another minute or so before its full and shuts off.
Joe,
What size/model pressure pot do you have? Any mods to it like a special nozzle?
What media do you use for general paint and rust clean-up?
Not a lot of progress this week on the F100 since the day job is getting in the way at the moment![]()
Joe -
Curious to hear what your day job is -- do you sit behind a desk or are you a body/paint guy by day as well?
Thanks
Scott
I was a bodyman for about 10 years. I worked in a Olds/Pontiac/Buick/GMC dealership. Started in an apprentice position and worked my way up to lead tech doing all the heavy hits. I was a combination man, meaning I done both the bodywork and paint work. I grew tired of constantly battling with insurance companies for a fair estimate, so I decided to make a change. I went to work for John Deere in a manufacturing facility as a production painter. I've been there about 12 yrs now. I spent the first 7 years in a liquid department spraying assembled machines. The last 5 years I've worked in a powder coat dept in various positions including time in the powder booths.
We build self propelled sprayers, cotton pickers, grain drills & tillage equipment.
Is that top one a cotton picker?
Joe -
Question for you -- you mention some pitting that you filled in with primer, but you're also cutting old metal out for rust repair. Where's the cutoff (no pun intended) for metal you can keep versus metal you have to replace? In other words, when you are restoring a car, what's the worst amount of pitting you will accept on metal that you are not replacing?
Thanks,
Scott

You'll be mixing up primer soon! Looking good!
. After the inner section was welded in, I primed and rust proofed the inside area before the outer went on. I panel bonded the lower flange of the outer & welded up the upper seam and the area inside on the door post.
Man I hope so...I feel I'm about a month behind where I wanted to be by now. Life gets in the way sometimes I guess
Replaced the right side inner & outer cab corner.
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These little Speed Blasters do such a nice job on small areas without making a mess and allow you to recycle your media
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I thought I took a pic, but I guess I didn't. After the inner section was welded in, I primed and rust proofed the inside area before the outer went on. I panel bonded the lower flange of the outer & welded up the upper seam and the area inside on the door post.
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Wire wheeled the entire underside to knock off the roughness left from media blasting.
What media was used that left it rough?
The pressure pot I have is the 110lb one from harbor frieght. I replaced the ball valve they come with at the nozzle with a deadman valve. For chassis parts or stuff like the cab floor I use a media called black blast. Its a very aggressive coal slag type media. For more delicate parts where warping is an issue I use a glass bead media.
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The pitting I mentioned was very minor caused by the surface rust. If the pitting is more like a crater or deep pitting then I cut it out and replace it. In this case a lot of what I had to replace was caused by the replacement cab mounts not being made right and following the floor shape. Had they fit only a small section of floor by the kick panels would have needed to be replaced.