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HD FLHX

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Took a step back and went with a different rear sump oil pan. It is a ford pan from a 67 289 Bronco. It fits perfect with the CV K frame. The mustang pan fit fine, but didn't have a provision for a dipstick tube in the pan which is what I needed since I'm using an early small block. I was searching ebay for a dipstick tube and came across this pan with pick up tube and dipstick for 20 bucks. :thumbup: Since I'm running headers I had to reshape the dipstick tube and make a mount tab that bolts to the bottom of the motor mount.





Now I'm headed out to work on finishing up the lower steering column mount, get the steering shaft fit and installed
 
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Wanna Ride

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Looking good. Do any of those old those old Broncos still have decent frames under them?
 
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MP&C

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Joe, not using the 4.6 mounting pads on the x-member? Will they be cut off or left for that possible engine change in the future?
 
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HD FLHX

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MP&C said:
Joe, not using the 4.6 mounting pads on the x-member? Will they be cut off or left for that possible engine change in the future?
Click to expand...


No I'm not going to use them. I was originally planning to shave them down, but I think I'll leave them as is. They're not in the way of anything and barely noticeable when looking down from the top because the motor mounts pretty much cover them. Plus you never know a future owner may want to use them :thumbup:
 
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C_F

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HD FLHX said:
A lot of the time it really depends on the type of paint and/or how many times it has been painted. In my experience it doesn't do as well with old lacquer paint jobs. Patience is the key. Keep the panel well saturated and let it soak in. Once it starts to lift good I usually put another coat on and let it soak for at least 10 more minutes.
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wasfast said:
Agree that the type of paint you're removing has a big impact on effectiveness. Don't bother with the lower end removers. The epoxy "aircraft" versions seem to be the strongest. Most use methylene chloride as the primary ingredient. I'm not Mr. Safety but you really don't want any of this on your skin. It burns something fierce. Water rinse stops the reaction.

Soaking time is important and also not letting it dry out. Some folks will cover it so it can't dry and more of the chemical outgassing stays in contact with the paint. Time matters. You can't just put it on and immediately scrape the paint off.
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Okay, I don't think I kept it saturated well enough at all. Plus probably not enough soak time, I assume. I'll try to do better next time, thanks for the replies.
Oh, and yes, getting it on your skin really *****!:eyecrazy:
 
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HD FLHX

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Some of the progress I made on the F100 this week. Steering column is all locked down and the steering shaft is hooked up. Turns nice and smooth without any binding thanks to those Boregson joints. The steering wheel is a 15" '40 Ford replica from Speedway Motors that is made to fit aftermarket columns.






I had a question on whether i was going to run power steering or not. I am, I bought a reman stock Ford pump along with matching March Performance billet mounting brackets for the power steering pump and alternator. The power steering kit comes with a billet pulley that will match the under drive pulley set I also bought.




Started fitting up some of the step/inner cab corner pieces. I will say I was less than impressed with the quality of these repop panels. I bought them from Mac's.




After some massaging with a hammer & dolly the step now fits pretty well and has a good tight seam




On inner structure type panels I like to do a step flange when sectioning in a piece. That way I can plug weld it and weld the seam. I punch small 1/4" holes for the plug welds along the flange. All of the other plug weld holes are 5/16ths.







I threw the cab corner section on right before I called it a night to see where I was at and so far everything appears to be lining up pretty well.

 
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Bears Fan

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0dc8b730-0cd5-419a-b7a6-de3eae4237a7_zpsu3jzlpcm.jpg


That really is some impressive work :beer:
 
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bullnerd

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Always impressed when I open this thread!

Thanks for taking the time to share your work.
 
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Grumblebum

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Aug 10, 2015
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Wollongong Australia
Great craftsmanship Joe, just the mock up with the new wheels looks awesome, can't wait to see the final result.

Would love to restore an old truck one day - we just don't have the variety of them over here that you guys have.

Thanks for sharing your projects.

Cheers Grumblebum :beer:
 
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HD FLHX

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Its really a shame the original door was destroyed by the accident. I'm still amazed how clean everything was on the inside. You just don't see that on 55yr old midwest trucks.






In the very early stages of lining up the door/rocker/cab corner section


 
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Chateau Slate 66

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Twin Cites, MN
That IS a shame those original doors couldn't be used. Anything without rust is like gold where I live. At least you could do some old school signage or pinstriping on them and have a great wall-hanger.
 
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TimeWarpF100

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HD FLHX said:
Its really a shame the original door was destroyed by the accident. I'm still amazed how clean everything was on the inside. You just don't see that on 55yr old midwest trucks.






In the very early stages of lining up the door/rocker/cab corner section


Click to expand...

Nice project and Awesome work! Always keeping a eye on your builds.
 
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HD FLHX

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Spent a couple days back in Indiana for the holidays. My father had my motor & trans done. Motor went together without any issues. The trans was a different story, being that it is an early c4 parts availability is an issue. Was lucky enough to find the NOS parts we needed on ebay & the seller was willing to over night them to us for a Thursday afternoon delivery.

Motor is a '64 289 that was bored .30 over, Edelbrock Performer topend kit, Pertronix distributor, Comp Cams 1.6 roller rockers. The valve covers on it are only temporary. The block will be painted Ford corporate blue with a basecoat/clearcoat. I will leave the heads/intake manifold natural.






Here is my Christmas present to myself...a complete set of Martin Senour domestic chip books from 1940-1986


 
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HD FLHX

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MP&C said:
Looking good Joe! Time to open the book and pick out the color?
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Yeah thats why I bought the chip book. I had books that covered most years from the '70's up to 2012, but nothing from the 50's or 60's. I think I want to use an era correct color on this truck.
 
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HD FLHX

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Worked on getting the cab corner section fit and welded in today.



Since this is such a large section and the inside is totally covered I chose to use a step flange instead of a **** joint.




I like to weld a about 3/4ths of the panel on, grind down the welds then go back and finish welding up all the gaps.




A light skim coat of body filler will easily finish out the joint




 
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Ohmthis

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Man, I feel like I haven't been on here in a while. Joe, the truck is looking awesome! I really like the gauges, which I can't blow up the picture large enough to see a lot of detail. I'm assuming they are stock style??? Thanks for the motivation!
 
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HD FLHX

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Ohmthis said:
Man, I feel like I haven't been on here in a while. Joe, the truck is looking awesome! I really like the gauges, which I can't blow up the picture large enough to see a lot of detail. I'm assuming they are stock style??? Thanks for the motivation!
Click to expand...

Actually those are still the stock gauges, I just threw the cluster in so I could make sure the column was centered before I locked it down. I do have some plans for the gauges. I want to retro fit the stock bezel with some classic looking gauges either from Auto Meter or Stewart Warner. Take the two idiot lights out and put an oil pressure and volt gauges in their place.

 
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HD FLHX

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Trying to get all the metal work done on the left side of the cab so I can get it pulled off the frame. Got to looking at the "Rocker Panel" which is really only a filler panel for the step in all reality and decided it would be a good candidate for panel bonding instead of welding it on.



I ground both areas on the rocker panel and the underside of the step with a 36 grit disc to give the adhesive something to bite to.




You can never have too many clamps :)




Not only does panel bonding save a ton of time in finish work it also offers the best corrosion protection possible since it totally seals the seam between the two pieces



Done some initial fitting of the cab corner patch panel, got as far as I could without being able to shut the door

 
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Ohmthis

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I have the basic speedometer center and idiot lights at the bottom for my gauges. I will be looking to get more info (from more gauges) while still looking like a stock set up.
 
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HD FLHX

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Didn't get much done this week since Mother Deere (aka John Deere) decided I needed to be at the plant for 65hrs this week. Managed to find some time to get the left side cab corner patch fit and installed yesterday afternoon.






New Champion 3 row aluminum radiator, shroud, electric 16" fan and overflow bottle also showed up this week

 
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Bears Fan

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Wow! those are some great before and after pictures on that collision repair on the left side of the ole' Ford... Great work! That's a really awesome Martin Senour domestic chip book you picked up too :thumbup:
 
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HD FLHX

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Finishing up the repairs on the left side of the cab. Figured I'd throw the bed on for a quick stance check before I pull the cab off the frame. Once I get the motor set in and the 2 inch drop springs installed the front should be sitting just right :thumbup:

 
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