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HD FLHX

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How bad are the fumes in the shop with that paint remover on the cab?

To me its not bad, but I'm not a very good judge of that since I really can't smell anything paint related anymore.

Great work! Any chance you could walk through your post stripper process before primer? Soap and water clean up or?
Thank you.

I rinse with water and use a rag to get the majority of the left over stripper & debris off. Then I go back with lacquer thinner & a red scotch brite pad & give it a thorough scrubbing and rinse with straight lacquer thinner.

Joe, great work on the truck! The little spot blaster you showed, what the bag on the front? Thanks!

It reclaims the media. The tip is rubber so you press the blaster firm against the surface and the media will bounce back into the tip and fall into the bag.



 
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HD FLHX

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Been a little bit since I posted any new pics, but I've been busy getting the rest of the cab stripped inside & out.








Skim coated the areas that were sectioned and fixed a few other small dents & dings.






Masked up and ready for a couple coats of self etching primer






While the cab dried this afternoon I done some blasting on the frame. Pretty much got most of the top done. I'll pull the IFS back off and flip the frame over and do the underside next.


 

ADSR

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In that last pic of the back of the cab, you can see the mud bleeding through. Is that normal with that primer?
 
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HD FLHX

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In that last pic of the back of the cab, you can see the mud bleeding through. Is that normal with that primer?

It is. Self etching primer is very thin /transparent. It's sole purpose is to bond to the bare metal and give the build primer something to bite to.
 
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bimmer1980

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Is it typical or best practice to use the bondo to bare metal and then the etching primer? Or would it be better to use the etching primer and then the bondo?

Just curious for my own future reference.

I always like to come and check out your threads.... you have a way of making some progress that is inspiring!
 
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Is it typical or best practice to use the bondo to bare metal and then the etching primer? Or would it be better to use the etching primer and then the bondo?

Just curious for my own future reference.

I always like to come and check out your threads.... you have a way of making some progress that is inspiring!

When using a self etching primer you have to do all you filler work first before you prime. Putting body filler on top of etching primer is not recommended. It will not properly adhere to it. I'm a little old school when it comes to filler work..It was beat into my head at an early age that all filler work should be done over properly prepared bare metal if you want it to stick.
 

Wanna Ride

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Been ******* with work since Christmas, and just catching up this thread and Timewarp's... awesome work. Love the progress pics.

Still planning on Goodguy's?
 
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Been ******* with work since Christmas, and just catching up this thread and Timewarp's... awesome work. Love the progress pics.

Still planning on Goodguy's?

It'll make the 2017 Heartland Nationals..:sad: I'm way further behind where I'd need to be to make it this year. 11hr shifts at work for the last 3 months has really made it difficult to get much done during the week. Thankfully we should be back to 40hr weeks soon.
 
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HD FLHX

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New tool arrived this week...48" Baileigh magnetic brake. Been talking myself out of one for a couple years now. Really don't have the room for it, but its capabilities can't be denied. I ordered it last Friday evening and it was sitting on the dock at the FedEx freight terminal ready to be picked up Tuesday morning :thumbup:



 
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Some recent progress on the F100. Finished blasting the frame, smoothed out the sectioned in areas and put it in epoxy primer.






Pulled the CV k-member apart to clean it up and install the 2" drop springs.
Blasted it to remove the 10yrs of ground in dirt.



Crown Vic parts are pretty cheap so I went ahead and bought new complete upper & lower control arms, hubs and everything related to the struts.





New strut assembled with drop 2" drop spring (left) compared to the stock unit



Ready to install



Also been working on getting all the unnecessary holes welded up in the firewall. Got about half done and ran out of welding wire last night :mad:



Might seem I'm skipping around a bit, but what I working towards is getting all the metal work done on the cab and in primer, set it back on the frame and get it bolted down so I can start fitting the doors.
 

Wanna Ride

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Glad to see some more progress on this project. I've only had time to stop by here a couple times so far this year, and the project's coming along nicely!
 

mccullin

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I am new to the forum and have not posted before. Nice work on the truck, I will be able to learn a lot from what you are doing. Post some pics of the Bronco build if you have them. I am currently working on a 71 Bronco and would love to see some details of what you did to get yours looking that great.
 
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HD FLHX

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HD FLHX

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Worked on getting the front suspension put back together with all the new parts yesterday afternoon





Then spent about 4 hours plugging up some more firewall holes..about half done.. :( :wtf:

 

C_F

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That CV front end looks like it was born there.:thumbup: Nice work on the firewall too, it's looking pretty slick/sleek...well, you know. :lol:
 

crab

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Man that seat looks good, is that a cover you bought or a custom made ?
 
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HD FLHX

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44 holes later the firewall is now smoothed out. Only remaining holes are for the hood hinges, heater box, battery tray and master cylinder.



 
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Rare mid week update, but the last couple days has been productive. Finished up the work on the firewall and got it in etch primer





Set the cab back on the frame.




Needed to move the truck to the other side of the shop so the easiest way was to make it a roller again. Before throwing the 8.8 back under it I done a little work on the leaf springs. Pressed out the old rubber bushings and replaced them with a polyurethane set. They gave my little Harbor Freight press a pretty good workout getting the old ones out..made me a little nervous standing beside it.




With it a roller again I moved it to the other side of the shop and set the real motor & trans in. I wanted to see about where the ride height was going to end up after the spring swap. As of right now its right at a 6.5" drop from stock in the front.



 

csp

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One of the things that I notice in this thread is how well your shop is lit. That has to make for a better quality product. It sure makes for better photos!
 
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HD FLHX

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Joe, the firewall looks great. It was well worth the effort. What are you using to lift the cab on and off of the chassis?

I have a few options, the easiest is 4 guys picking it up and moving it by hand. That can be tough sometimes getting the help to be here all at the same time so then I'll either use my gantry crane or an attachment I have for my engine hoist.

11546.gif


I also use this to lift beds off, just flip it upside down and it'll lock under the bedside lip

 
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bulletpruf

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HD FLHX

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Joe -

Quick question for you - are you using red scotchbrite by hand or are you using an angle grinder and something like this - http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...e-Surface-Conditioning-Discs?N=7581642&rt=r3?

Thanks,

Scott

For the "rise down" to make sure all the stripper residue is off I'll just use a scotch brite pad by hand. Red or grey, usually just grab one thats left over. I do go over the entire panel with a Roloc bristle disc before I prime to make sure the surface is clean & rust free. I think they do a better job and create less heat than the Roloc pads do in the link.


 

bulletpruf

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For the "rise down" to make sure all the stripper residue is off I'll just use a scotch brite pad by hand. Red or grey, usually just grab one thats left over. I do go over the entire panel with a Roloc bristle disc before I prime to make sure the surface is clean & rust free. I think they do a better job and create less heat than the Roloc pads do in the link.

Thanks, Joe. I have some of the bristle discs. They work quite well. Not cheap, of course, but you get what you pay for.

Scott
 
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Test fit of the new front brakes. They are 12" drilled & slotted rotors from Powerstop. Calipers are oem 4 piston replacements.




With warmer weather and all its humidity on the way. I figured I better get the inner fenders body worked and in primer since they were still bare metal from blasting them last fall.





Before & after





 

4EyedTurd

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I'm floored at how well the door patch came out on the bronco, you can't tell it's been welded on.
 
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