BP&B Hobby Shop
- Thread starter HD FLHX
- Start date
Chateau Slate 66
Well-known member
Really nice work. 
Wanna Ride
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2010
- Messages
- 2,790
Absolutely LOVE this build. I check in every day to see your progress.
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Joe, wow on those inner fenders. They frame the engine perfectly. It's coming along really nice.
I might of missed it, I don't know what color you picked for the truck, but that primer color looks pretty good on the old Ford
I haven't nailed down a body color yet, it will be a two tone. I am leaning towards an era correct solid green with the charcoal grey from the wheels. Only the roof, back of the cab down to the bodyline & grill will be grey.
Messing around with the panoramic photo feature on my Galaxy S7. Excuse some of the clutter, but I thought they were cool pics of inside the shop.
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I somehow missed the pics of the inner fender work until today...wow! Super impressive work on those, they turned out fantastic.
Looking forward to your continued updates, as always.
Looking forward to your continued updates, as always.
tlmartin84
Well-known member
What are the wheels to the right???
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Absolutely Fantastic work as usual!
I have seen dozen's of CV suspension swaps but yours is the only one that looks like it belongs there.
Every part of job so neat, perfect. Love it!
You may have mentioned but what primer is the green stuff?
Are you going to keep this one as a shop truck?
I have seen dozen's of CV suspension swaps but yours is the only one that looks like it belongs there.
Every part of job so neat, perfect. Love it!
You may have mentioned but what primer is the green stuff?
Are you going to keep this one as a shop truck?
I somehow missed the pics of the inner fender work until today...wow! Super impressive work on those, they turned out fantastic.
Looking forward to your continued updates, as always.
Thanks
Those are the wheels that will be on the truck. They are take offs from a 2015 Mustang
Thanks...
The primer is an etch primer. Coming from a collision repair background I prefer it instead of epoxy. It is a Sherwin Williams product. It may end up being a little to nice to be a true shop truck, but it'll get driven plenty.
Since I'm on here tonight I'll post a few new pics. Welded up a few unnecessary holes on the dash, fixed a couple dents and finished stripping the rest of the old paint from around the windshield & doors on the inside.
2 coats of etch primer applied
Picked up a set of '50 Pontiac tail lights.
2 coats of etch primer applied
Picked up a set of '50 Pontiac tail lights.
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I like those tail lights, they are a nice improvement over the stockers. Back in the 80's I used to see '65-'66 Mustang tail lights on quite a few of those trucks, but I like your pick better.
Back in the 80's I used to see '65-'66 Mustang tail lights on quite a few of those trucks, but I like your pick better.With springtime upon us I pulled the Econoline out of winter storage for some preseason maintenance and installation of a few parts I had purchased last summer. Rear shocks, a Pertronix ignition and coil, oil change and lube, adjust the brakes and new plugs were on the list.
I really like these Pertronix ignitor ignition systems. This will be the third one I've installed. Very simple just pop out the points and install the module in their place. Put the pickup ring on the distributor shaft, set the gap with the supplied gauge, connect two wires to the flame thrower coil and your done.
The best thing about working on the econoline engine is you can sit on your **** the whole time
Also went to the DMV and changed the registration so I can run original 1964 Iowa plates
On a different note I was on one of my old laptops ( to transfer some music since windows no longer includes media player on the new systems
) and came across these pics of a Bronco grill I straightened. All by hammer and dolly. I thought it was worth sharing
I really like these Pertronix ignitor ignition systems. This will be the third one I've installed. Very simple just pop out the points and install the module in their place. Put the pickup ring on the distributor shaft, set the gap with the supplied gauge, connect two wires to the flame thrower coil and your done.
The best thing about working on the econoline engine is you can sit on your **** the whole time
Also went to the DMV and changed the registration so I can run original 1964 Iowa plates
On a different note I was on one of my old laptops ( to transfer some music since windows no longer includes media player on the new systems
) and came across these pics of a Bronco grill I straightened. All by hammer and dolly. I thought it was worth sharing
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MP&C
Well-known member
Dang Joe, for some reason I thought you had sold the Econoline P/U. Good to see it again..
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
I was thinking same thing . . Thought it was gone.
I have not tried the pertronix yet but have one here.
Really like those taillights
YJ4000
Well-known member
Pertronix is the way to go! It made such a difference with my 71 Jeep J4000. They used a Buick 350.
Ryan.
Ryan.
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Do you still have that white one? Some of the pics look more recent.
BTW, that's some impressive work straightening that Bronco grille!
BTW, that's some impressive work straightening that Bronco grille!
I sold it in late 95 or early 96 can't remember exactly when for sure. Some of the pics aged worse than others for whatever reason.
Started some rust repair on the drivers door. It had some thin spots inside the front upper window channel. Luckily the wrecked door was undamaged in that area and super solid
I wasn't sure if I'd be able to unfold the door skin lip without destroying the outer skin or not. Took it slow and was able to successfully unfold the lip with minimal damage to the outside.
Sandblasted and primed inside of both pieces
Fitting the new inner section
Done
tombell572
Well-known member
I just found this thread-I can't believe you would cut up that beautiful, restorable Model A Pickup.
Tom B.
Tom B.
xtremek
Well-known member
Nice job on the door.
Some more rust repair on the drivers door. Had to rebuild both lower inner corners of the door shell and section in a new 8" piece of the outer skin.
Made a pattern out of poster board to figure out the radius I needed then transfered it over to a piece of 18 gauge. To get the 90* bend started I used a tipping die on my bead roller to get it started then finished it out by hand with a hammer and dolly
Welded in and finished out.
Next moved onto making an outer skin. Sheared a piece of 18 gauge 38"x8.5"
Marked out where the bends are going to be with 1/2" masking tape on the bottom and sides
Used the shrinker dies on my S/S get the curve I needed to match the door shell. Then laid out some lines to use as a guide for the english wheel.
The initial fit
A little more shape
Sand blasted the inside of the door shell and POR15 it before the outer skin patch went on.
Ready to start welding it up
Made a pattern out of poster board to figure out the radius I needed then transfered it over to a piece of 18 gauge. To get the 90* bend started I used a tipping die on my bead roller to get it started then finished it out by hand with a hammer and dolly
Welded in and finished out.
Next moved onto making an outer skin. Sheared a piece of 18 gauge 38"x8.5"
Marked out where the bends are going to be with 1/2" masking tape on the bottom and sides
Used the shrinker dies on my S/S get the curve I needed to match the door shell. Then laid out some lines to use as a guide for the english wheel.
The initial fit
A little more shape
Sand blasted the inside of the door shell and POR15 it before the outer skin patch went on.
Ready to start welding it up
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Man, would you look at this piece...
If that was a piece I had been working on, it would not be sitting there all nice & square. Mine would only be touching on two or three corners & the fourth would be standing up waving hi!
LOL 
As usual, your work is amazing. I'm looking forward to the next installment.
If that was a piece I had been working on, it would not be sitting there all nice & square. Mine would only be touching on two or three corners & the fourth would be standing up waving hi!
LOL As usual, your work is amazing. I'm looking forward to the next installment.
I'm off work this week so I'll bore you guys with some more pics. I welded up the door yesterday and finished out the seam. It'll require a skim coat of filler to make it perfect, but it's solid and straight. I was happy to see with all the repair work the door still fit the opening very well. It always makes me nervous when I go to rehang something after that much work
Someday I'll be able to 100% metal finish a panel like that, but I'm not there yet.
I've also had been kicking around buying a fuel injection system for the 289. Holley announced at SEMA last fall they were introducing a system that was going to be under a grand which caught my attention. After some research, that system is a rebranded FITech system which has been on the market for a while. I searched through many forums and read as much as I could find on them and it seems to be a pretty solid system so I just put in the order today.
The thing I really like about this system is its all self contained on the throttle body and self tuning. They also offer what they call the Command Center that mounts under the hood and contains a wet sump high pressure fuel pump. It is feed by the mechanical pump off the engine and allows you to run your stock fuel tank without any modifications and no need for a return line.
Someday I'll be able to 100% metal finish a panel like that, but I'm not there yet.
I've also had been kicking around buying a fuel injection system for the 289. Holley announced at SEMA last fall they were introducing a system that was going to be under a grand which caught my attention. After some research, that system is a rebranded FITech system which has been on the market for a while. I searched through many forums and read as much as I could find on them and it seems to be a pretty solid system so I just put in the order today.
The thing I really like about this system is its all self contained on the throttle body and self tuning. They also offer what they call the Command Center that mounts under the hood and contains a wet sump high pressure fuel pump. It is feed by the mechanical pump off the engine and allows you to run your stock fuel tank without any modifications and no need for a return line.
Stooge
Well-known member
I also had been looking into the FItech system but although the positive reviews outnumbered the negatives, there seemed to be too many instances of people having issues with it to scare me off. some well documented threads concerning the issues on the 67-72chevytruck boards
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
1969
Well-known member
^^^^^^^^Agreed, not boring!
nonhog
Well-known member
That command center is awesome.
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
I hope the Unger Bodyworks live feed starts soon as I just ran out of popcorn!
dkroth
Well-known member
How about a couple web cams? Or a periscope feed?
you guys might be onto something...could generate some extra $$$ for the parts fund 
In all seriousness I would have never thought that many people would have taken an interest in what some random guy in BFE Iowa is tinkering with in his garage at night.
xtremek
Well-known member
You'd be surprised what interests people. But an educational ride along on body work gets a huge following. Thanks for posting and it isn't boring by any stretch.
Spent the good part of yesterday prepping the inside of the cab for primer. I blasted the floors several months ago and needed to get it sealed up before the spring humidity hits.
Took the time to smooth out the inside of the firewall from all the holes that were welded up. It'll be mostly covered up, but its a small detail I like to do. These floors still amaze me..you don't come across original floors this nice very often here in the midwest.
I put 2 coats of primer on the firewall first then done the rest of the floor.
I will offer some advice I've learned the hard way several times. Anytime I'm working on pieces like a cowl or a floor with factory spot welds, take the time and grind the spot welds flat. Your hands will thank you in the future when your prepping it for paint. Some of the burrs on the spot welds are razor sharp.
Took the time to smooth out the inside of the firewall from all the holes that were welded up. It'll be mostly covered up, but its a small detail I like to do. These floors still amaze me..you don't come across original floors this nice very often here in the midwest.
I put 2 coats of primer on the firewall first then done the rest of the floor.
I will offer some advice I've learned the hard way several times. Anytime I'm working on pieces like a cowl or a floor with factory spot welds, take the time and grind the spot welds flat. Your hands will thank you in the future when your prepping it for paint. Some of the burrs on the spot welds are razor sharp.
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Joe,
Thanks for taking the time to share your projects with us. Your attention to detail is obvious and by sharing those details, we can all hopefully learn something. It appears you do most of your work in the main part of the shop as opposed to the dedicated paint booth. Can you explain why? I would think the booth is an ideal way to contain the dust, overspray, etc. I would love to have a similar setup someday and I am trying to understand your process. Thanks again for taking the time to photograph and comment on your work.
Thanks for taking the time to share your projects with us. Your attention to detail is obvious and by sharing those details, we can all hopefully learn something. It appears you do most of your work in the main part of the shop as opposed to the dedicated paint booth. Can you explain why? I would think the booth is an ideal way to contain the dust, overspray, etc. I would love to have a similar setup someday and I am trying to understand your process. Thanks again for taking the time to photograph and comment on your work.
xtremek
Well-known member
Thanks for that tidbit.
Kind of like, either don't cut zip ties, or make real sure they're cut absolutely flush. You don't think about that until you've just spilled your blood everywhere.