Bracing for 18ft garage door

[streetdaddy]

What's the best way to brace for a 18 ft garage door? They are in the rough in framing stage now. I will be using a liftmaster 8500 garage door opener. Would like it to look nice. Anything i need to do now before sheetrock goes up?

 

[pattenp]

Make sure you have the needed blocking at the points where the tracks/bearing plates/opener will mount.

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[GS-Louie]

My builder used a LDL beam at least 12" high and 3" wide. It may have been larger. I thought I had pictures of it but I can't find them now.

Lou

 

[pattenp]

My builder used a LDL beam at least 12" high and 3" wide. It may have been larger. I thought I had pictures of it but I can't find them now.

Lou

LDL is bad cholesterol. I think you meant LVL.

 

[bczygan]

What's the best way to brace for a 18 ft garage door? They are in the rough in framing stage now. I will be using a liftmaster 8500 garage door opener. Would like it to look nice. Anything i need to do now before sheetrock goes up?

What do you mean by bracing?

If you mean the header beam above the opening, then that needs to be designed and engineered to support the loads imposed upon it and that depends upon the type of roof and wall structure above it. Gable end or eave? What is the building structure? Ridge board or ridge beam? Trusses or joists and rafters? Size of building and roof wind and snow loads? Etc.

Bill

 

[streetdaddy]

Im at this stage. Just asking if i need any more blocking before the sheetrock goes up.

 

[pattenp]

The wood frame face needs to be flush with the block wall for the vertical tracks to be mounted. I have the same framing as you do so the goal post framing was added to flush the track mounting surface to the block face. Hope that makes sense.

 

[streetdaddy]

Not sure i am following. Do you have any pics?

 

[bczygan]

Doing anything for shear wall conditions?

 

[pattenp]

Frame is built up to be flush with block. It's 2 2X4's laid flat. Go back and look closer at first pic I posted. The 2X4's go around the door frame and the jamb board is a 2X8 to cover the width of the block.

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[MoonRise]

My builder used a LDL beam at least 12" high and 3" wide. It may have been larger. I thought I had pictures of it but I can't find them now.

Lou

LDL is bad cholesterol. I think you meant LVL.

Nah, LDL was probably used by the 'builder'.

Low Density Lumber-substitute. Sort of like MDF, except more air and less sawdust in the mix.

Actual answer to the OP: Make sure you have blocking in the right places (RTFM) for the motor unit, the sensor brackets, and the light unit. Make sure you have or can get power to the motor unit and the light unit.

Page 3 of the manual

http://www.liftmaster.com/CatalogResourcesV3/en-us/shared/files/tucmanuals/114a4565.pdf

 

[streetdaddy]

Pattenp,

I am a total noob. How did you get the door to go all the way to the ceiling? I would love to have mine do that.

 

[pattenp]

Use a highlift conversion track. You buy the length of highlift track needed for the amount of vertical travel needed. In my case I used a 36" highlift. It also takes longer cables and different drums and springs depending on the amount of lift.

Checkout this site.
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/garage-door-high-lift-conversion.php




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[Toolfool]

Since my header didn't need to be very tall I added blocking for where the end of the track gets bolted to the wall .