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Brake caliper tool?

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Hal

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What is the best style of caliper spreading tool for dual piston calipers?

I see three general types :
Squeeze handles, looks like it would be difficult to use if the caliper resisted.
Ratchet handle, wide pads that cover both pistons.
L-shaped, looks like the strongest, but needs the old pads to press against.

I have an OMT kit for the single piston and wind back calipers.

Just decided to get something after a recent frustrating brake job on a Subaru. Wound up replacing a caliper that wouldn’t return, after skinning my knuckles and cursing it for too long.
 
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racecougar

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It really depends on the caliper. Does it have the semi-circle cut out in the center of the outside ears? If so, use the old pad and a C-clamp. If not, the ratcheting ones work decently, with the side benefit that they'll be useful for any 4-piston calipers you might work on in the future.
 
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turner66

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I use c-clamps, Lang 279 Brake Caliper Press, old pads, spacers of some kind, and whatever else for each specific job makes it easier... Most of my work is larger diesel pickup trucks like F250-F450 or Dodge equivalents so sometimes i get creative because calipers can be big LOL.
My son has a Subaru CrossTrek but its only a year old and hasn't needed brakes so i'm no help there yet specifically...
In general, I do like the Lang.
 
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JWC86

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Hal

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VolvoRyan said:
Remember: if it requires excessive force to push pistons in, the caliper needs some level of "rebuilding".

-Ryan
Click to expand...
Excessive force, you mean when I bent the handle of th C- clamp, trying to tighten it, with a box wrench slipped over the handle for leverage?

That was when I called the auto parts store for a replacement.
 
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shoggoth80

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In have the Maddox service set. It's been good to me. For dual pistons (my SUV has dual piston calipers), I use the old pad, and center the tool as best I can, and swap back and forth to get both leveled out. Maybe not as convenient as a true dual piston tool. Working on my own stuff, speed isn't as much a concern.

A lot of guys seem to like those ratcheting presses from Lang. If I had to do it for money, I would be considering those myself.
 
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Hal

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So I do I need both sizes? None of the ads show actual dimensions. I’m not ear a caliper I can check right now.
I’m sure I would need the larger one for my Ford pickups, but would it fit the smaller calipers, like the Subaru?
 
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AJHD

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Hal said:
So I do I need both sizes? None of the ads show actual dimensions. I’m not ear a caliper I can check right now.
I’m sure I would need the larger one for my Ford pickups, but would it fit the smaller calipers, like the Subaru?
Click to expand...

The larger version is for larger brake calipers, most commonly found on front brakes.
The smaller version is for smaller calipers, most commonly found on rear brakes.

That's not to say the larger version won't work on rear brakes, I've used mine for both front and rear plenty of times.
Also, it's designed to be used for quad piston calipers, but it works just fine for single and dual piston as well.
 
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Stelzer

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Did brakes on my Tundra last night and used old pads with 2 clamps. Fast, effective, and it's what I had. That said, buying "the best" designated tool would depend upon your particular brakes/calipers. I've also used my dad's old SO spreader as well as a newer Lang, both of which worked without issues.
 
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L.Cheapo

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Hal said:
So I do I need both sizes? None of the ads show actual dimensions. I’m not ear a caliper I can check right now.
I’m sure I would need the larger one for my Ford pickups, but would it fit the smaller calipers, like the Subaru?
Click to expand...
I dont work on Subarus, but I recently ran into a rear caliper the larger tool wouldn't fit into. It was either a Toyota or a Jeep. So I bought the Lisle caulk gun style. I like that one better--faster, less awkward to use, better "feel" for the resistance in the caliper.
 
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gungatim

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I saw a neat trick for dual piston (opposed) calipers that don't need a special tool.

If you have two small pry bars, put them in the center opposed and squeeze the handles together and they act like a retracting tool.

caliper spread.JPG
 
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teknikfrog

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gungatim said:
I saw a neat trick for dual piston (opposed) calipers that don't need a special tool.

If you have two small pry bars, put them in the center opposed and squeeze the handles together and they act like a retracting tool.

caliper spread.JPG
Click to expand...
This is what I do. I have the proper kit but the only time I get it out is on rear brakes on certain cars that have to be rotated (and don't include a rotator on the caliper).
 
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Hal

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Hal said:
So I do I need both sizes? None of the ads show actual dimensions. I’m not ear a caliper I can check right now.
I’m sure I would need the larger one for my Ford pickups, but would it fit the smaller calipers, like the Subaru?
Click to expand...
Replying to my last post. The big tool will not fit a Subaru front caliper, ordered the smaller one last night. Question is moot for this job anyway, as one piston is seized at maximum extension. I knew we were in trouble when the bridge bolt broke off on the first try. I’m going with two new calipers. Haven’t disassembled the rear brakes yet, but what I can see through the spokes of the wheel doesn’t look good.

Joys of the rust belt!!
 
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2ndGearRubber

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AJHD said:
These can pretty much do anything, except twist in style calipers... But buy them on Amazon.

www.langtools.com

SKU : 279 - Brake Caliper Press

Manufacturing professional tools since 1932
www.langtools.com www.langtools.com
www.langtools.com

SKU : 277 - Small Brake Caliper Press

Manufacturing professional tools since 1932
www.langtools.com www.langtools.com
Click to expand...

I just bought the 279, and I REALLY like it. I used to use the Lisle pistol style, but they're a bit hard on the wrists with bigger pistons. They're too big for the smaller calipers, so I'm thinking of either the 277, or another smaller option snap on has - btcp400, which seems more versatile but is 2x the street price of the 277. I don't like the rod that sticks out of the 277.


gungatim said:
I saw a neat trick for dual piston (opposed) calipers that don't need a special tool.

If you have two small pry bars, put them in the center opposed and squeeze the handles together and they act like a retracting tool.

caliper spread.JPG
Click to expand...

I do that with the caliper still bolted up, prying on the tops of the pads.


Hal said:
Replying to my last post. The big tool will not fit a Subaru front caliper, ordered the smaller one last night. Question is moot for this job anyway, as one piston is seized at maximum extension. I knew we were in trouble when the bridge bolt broke off on the first try. I’m going with two new calipers. Haven’t disassembled the rear brakes yet, but what I can see through the spokes of the wheel doesn’t look good.

Joys of the rust belt!!
Click to expand...

Not on the threads, but apply some anti-seize to the shank of the bolt where it passes through the knuckle. That'll prevent them from getting stuck in the future and snapping off.
 
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Hal

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Yabutt the parts store only had two of them yesterday. I told my friend he was only allowed to break one more, unless he wanted to chase parts.

The new calipers should just include them. Still better than stuff where the hardware isn't included, and they have no clue how to find it from stock bolts. "Oh I guess you'll have to go to the dealer."
 
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KnurledNut

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In addition to whats been mentioned, I’ve used my Knipex pliers wrench on a few...
 
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Hal

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Big Channeloks, Vise Grip C- clamp. Had a strong temptation to put one in the press.
 
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Firebrick43

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Hal said:
Big Channeloks, Vise Grip C- clamp. Had a strong temptation to put one in the press.
Click to expand...
Pump the brakes and pop the caliper out. Remove the caliper and inspect the piston and bore. Either it has corrosion that needs removed or a new piston or you have already screwed it up by trying to force it back in and it was cocked.

You should never have to apply that much force to push the piston back, and you need to learn to stop and see why instead of trying to apply more force

Either way forcing it back in at this point will just result in either a dragging brake and ruined rotor or a non op brake
 
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Hal

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Not going to rebuild a caliper. If it’s that bad it’s getting replaced. Not worth the time or the risk of early failure. If a new or rebuilt caliper fails within the warranty period, I don’t have to eat it. Still may get some free labor into it.
 
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mikegt4

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My brake caliper tool is a very old yellow handle screwdriver about 18" long, it's served me well for 5 decades. I stick it through the big inspection hole (for want of a better word) on the caliper and into the cooling fins in the disc. Using it like a pry bar moving the caliper side ways to force the piston back in it's bore. For a dual (opposing piston) caliper opening the bleed valve is often required, it helps on a single piston caliper as well. All this is done before unbolting the caliper so as to maximize the leverage available. in the rare event that this method doesn't work then I use a C-clamp once the caliper is out of the car.
 
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