Breaker Bar

[Dave.R]

That is the exact same as the HF bar, except over double the price.

Too be fair, ours has a Chrome moly head, and the other is labeled as CR-V. Not saying its bad, cause its not, just saying exact same might not be dead on.

 

[fourtythree]

I'm pretty pleased with SK's 24" bar. Perfect finish, extra beefy and half the price of truck brands. Its also 100% US made and has a lifetime warranty.

 

[greasemonkey44]

ill be the nay sayer on the HF breaker bar
it flexes alot; to the point it was useless to me
felt really cheesy to me as well
i bought a big extendable 3/4 ratchet and an adapter; been working just fine

 

[thebeekeeper1]

Reading some of the stories on here have made me leery of 24" breaker bars in 1/2" drive.

I have a MAC that I believe is 25" that I bought for $8 at a pawn shop and I am not man enough to damage it. I've jumped on it breaking lug nuts loose, used a pipe on it, done everything with it on old farm equipment, and it is still perfect. As you can imagine, I like it a lot.

 

[71goldss]

ill be the nay sayer on the HF breaker bar
it flexes alot; to the point it was useless to me
felt really cheesy to me as well
i bought a big extendable 3/4 ratchet and an adapter; been working just fine

I have the 1/2" HF bar and have only used it once. It flexed so bad that I thought it was going to snap and do some serious damage, mainly to me! I resorted back to my shorter CM bar with a cheater and had no problems. The HF bar may have done the trick but I wasn't willing to take the risk to find out.

 

[chevy.stroker]

Yeah, get the Harbor Freight one, just make sure you live close to the store. Pick up a few adapters while you're there they work as well as the break-er bars.

I understand you dislike HF, and from your previous posts/threads do not go in the store. However, these pictures re not of current HF breaker bars that now have a different style head:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=breaker bar

 

[85camaro]

I have to concur with others who say they don't trust 1/2" drive 24" breaker bars.

I tried busting loose some lugnuts on an F-350 with my Matco 24" bar and quickly realized it wasn't up to the task. Fortunately I stopped before breaking my bar and myself. 3/4" drive is the way to go with 24" breaker bars, imo.

 

[Mickey O]

I understand you dislike HF, and from your previous posts/threads do not go in the store. However, these pictures re not of current HF breaker bars that now have a different style head:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=breaker bar

I would have no way of knowing that. I do drive by Harbor Freight occasionally, probably going to drive by there tomorrow, may even stop if the light is red and there's a cop around.

Someone offer me a free Hf breaker bar.

 

[NC-Fordguy]

wasn't there a thread recently concerning a snappy 24 inch breaker bar that broke?

 

[chevy.stroker]

I would have no way of knowing that. I do drive by Harbor Freight occasionally, probably going to drive by there tomorrow, may even stop if the light is red and there's a cop around.

Someone offer me a free Hf breaker bar.

I understand. That's why I updated you.

 

[rider9195]

wasn't there a thread recently concerning a snappy 24 inch breaker bar that broke?

Yeah there was. But the thing was old and had a lot of use. In my opinion I would spend a couple extra bucks on something that has a good warranty.

 

[71goldss]

I understand you dislike HF, and from your previous posts/threads do not go in the store. However, these pictures re not of current HF breaker bars that now have a different style head:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=breaker bar

I'm not so sure about all three being different than the new ones. The bar in the top photo looks much like my new one and also the one in HF's photo on their website.

 

[Squankum]

re. the Proto:

I have been thinking about buying this one. Does it have a pin or screw type joint?

It's a pin type.

 

[greasegorilla]

Bought a 10" 3/8 Kobalt breaker bar off cripesdistrubuting this weekend, got it today. I'm pretty impressed with it by feel, haven't actually used it yet though. Im impressed enough that I would try their 1/2 version. For $25 and made in USA, I'd buy it before a craftsman at least.

 

[GTO]

I bought the Gearwrench 24" half inch drive from Amazon.
Happy with it so far.

 

[MattPersman]

they all break if you push them too far. seriously how often do you use a breaker bar? if its like 4-5 hours a day (no idea how or why) then maybe spend the 100 bucks for the matco or snap on. if its on occasion like most people then the HF is fine really especially for the money. many of us pro wrenches have it and are using it

 

[adamsredlines]

I will be honest....since I got my SLF80 25" long ratchet....I haven't used a breaker bar. I still have several....but they now just take up space.

 

[Gregg33]

SO or if you were in Canada a Gray. Can't beat those brands for just about any wrench or socket-accessory. My Gray breaker takes alot of abuse, picked it up used (although it looked almost new) as part of a package deal, still going strong after 3 years of use.

 

[RCStocker]

Never had a problem any of the three HF breaker bars I own. Trying to break loose an axle nut on a Subaru, 24" HF bar with a handle from a jack on it and bouncing with all my weight on the end, no problem.

Several have said they have had luck with the Harbor Freight breaker bars.
They may be better than they were a few years back but I have seen so many that spread at the Y. They separate. I have seen dozens at swap meets that were bent and spread in the head. I have had a few come through the shops I have bought out and they all are loos and floppy. I for one would not even buy a good used one.

I find 1/2" Craftsman breaker bars for $3 to $5 all the time. I have been using them for 50 years and never had a problem. At the yard sale price there is no reason to buy any others. I have a 24 inch Matco and the swivel is very loose in the Y. I got it used that way. I have not turned it in for a new one. I never use it is just there if someone needs it. I should turn it in for a new one but I don't know when any of the truck are local.

Swap meets and yard sales are full of breaker bars of all brands. I buy them all the time. Even if you get a cheap new Chinese Craftsman they will replace it if it bends or breaks. I have never paid over $5 for one in 50 years.

 

[Nocturnal-G]

I have a 16 inch SK breaker bar... love the thing. It's gotten me out of a few messes...

 

[CD1]

I bought a 24" 1/2" HF breaker bar about 15 years ago. The first time I used it to loosen an axle nut it broke, without using a cheater bar. I had to mail it back for a replacement, which I gifted to a relative, hehe.

My 18" 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar does the same duty with a 4 ft. cheater bar with no hesitation. I purchased that CM BB new over 30 years ago. It has never failed me.

I should buy the latest HF 1/2" breaker bar and test them to see if they stand up to what some are claiming here. I need to replace a CV boot which has a slight tear.

 

[MattPersman]

do it, its a strong bar. the ones in the pictures are not what is for sale today. for the $ its hard to beat

 

[MattPersman]

ok so I ran into a problem with the HF breaker bar I stood behind. I still stand behind it because it did not break, BUT it does flex if you are really trying to tighten to loosen something. I was doing a simple dana 30 rebuild in a jeep and for some reason it was the crush sleeve from hell I used, normally no problem but this I had my 24" HF bar on it with about a 3.5-4 foot long jack handle on it as a cheater pipe and it was just flexing too much to crush it. I lowered the jeep down on the bar to try to use the weight of the jeep to crush the crush sleeve and it just flexed too much to do anything.

I tried a co-workers Matco 1/2 breaker bar and the head snapped right off like the OLD HF ones that Mickey is trying to dog. we then put his old 3/4" craftsman ratchet on it with a cheater bar and we finally got it to crush.

so for 10 bucks its still awesome for 95% of the stuff you will come across. you might come across something it will just flex too much for but hell it didnt break even with a 4000 lb jeep on it

now any suggestions for one that really doesn't flex? does the Proto J5469 (1/2" breaker bar 24" length) flex or is it strong? the Matco 30" is too high $ for something needed 1-5% of the time

 

[DrkMtnDew]

I've got the Snappy bar and so far so good.

 

[ihateminimumwage]

If you want Snap-On without the cost, go Williams USA (even sold directly from Snap-On)
3/4 Drive 22"
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BT1Y1G/?tag=atomicindus08-20

They also have the 34" on there, but the price doubles (which is still a damn good deal)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DO6YEI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Jeeper]

I have used my 24" SK breaker bar with a high jack handle as a cheater to crush a Dana 30 crushsleeve. The breaker bar does flex but it worked. I now have a 36" 3/4" drive Snap on for the next time.

I have heard of people actually putting a crush sleeve in a press and ever so slightly compressing it to get it "started". That way you don't have apply so much force. No way around it, it's a lot of force to get it to start crushing.

 

[daddy2coull]

i had a Mac 24" breaker bar about 15 years ago, I only ever used it for undoing tight drain bungs (12mm hex on the end) when servicing Volvo trucks. it broke after about a years service, the Mac dealer refused to repair/replace on the grounds that I had 'over worked it'

I replaced it with a Snap on version which I have 'beaten the grand mother' out of. sure its bust a couple of times, but I've had no problem getting it fixed. I've just given up on buying budget tools, I just deal with SO now, I'd rather pay extra for a good warranty

 

[jmm]

I have an older 18" SK with the soft grip. It's not much to look at, but it's incredibly stout. It flexes under serious weight -- more than I can muster using it properly. A cheater bar bent it a few years ago, but the head is as tight as it was the day I got it. I'm curious to see how/when it'll get run into the ground.

I too have the HF at home. For lug nuts and irregular duty, it's fine. It's not as strong as my SK -- I can get it to flex if I throw all my muscle behind it, but it's nice and tight and has yet to bend. Lots of professionals swear by them -- for the price it's worth a shot.

 

[crewchief888]

i have a couple of vintage SK bars i havent managed to break
only broke 1 SO bar a few years ago, dealer at the time, replaced it with a newer design head.

 

[Mike007]

Hey, just wanted to pass on a tip I got from a friend of mine who is a mechanic that specializes in 4x4's. He does a lot of ring and pinion work. He has had the threads strip right off a Spicer pinion gear a few times while attempting to crush a tough crush collar. So now he puts the crush collar in his shop press and gives it a little squeeze just enough to get it started then installs it. It's much easier and theres no chance the pinion will strip.

ok so I ran into a problem with the HF breaker bar I stood behind. I still stand behind it because it did not break, BUT it does flex if you are really trying to tighten to loosen something. I was doing a simple dana 30 rebuild in a jeep and for some reason it was the crush sleeve from hell I used, normally no problem but this I had my 24" HF bar on it with about a 3.5-4 foot long jack handle on it as a cheater pipe and it was just flexing too much to crush it. I lowered the jeep down on the bar to try to use the weight of the jeep to crush the crush sleeve and it just flexed too much to do anything.

I tried a co-workers Matco 1/2 breaker bar and the head snapped right off like the OLD HF ones that Mickey is trying to dog. we then put his old 3/4" craftsman ratchet on it with a cheater bar and we finally got it to crush.

so for 10 bucks its still awesome for 95% of the stuff you will come across. you might come across something it will just flex too much for but hell it didnt break even with a 4000 lb jeep on it

now any suggestions for one that really doesn't flex? does the Proto J5469 (1/2" breaker bar 24" length) flex or is it strong? the Matco 30" is too high $ for something needed 1-5% of the time

 

[RickP330]

Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the great dialog here - The SK would be a close second for me. I have time, so I never pulled the trigger yet. Waiting to see if christmas yields any results. I've put it on my wish list.... I'll update the thread in a few days.
RP

 

[RickP330]

If you want Snap-On without the cost, go Williams USA (even sold directly from Snap-On)
3/4 Drive 22"
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BT1Y1G/?tag=atomicindus08-20

They also have the 34" on there, but the price doubles (which is still a damn good deal)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DO6YEI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Those are sweet, but 3/4" drive. they have 1/2" drive as well?
RP

PS, if 1/2" breaker bars are flexing that much, I think it's time to move up to 3/4" bars...

 

[MattPersman]

Ok so I purchased a Matco 24" and a snap on 18" 1/2" drive stuff in the breaker bar category. I will try the shop press trick on the next 30 crush sleeve I get. I have a wrangler I have to re gear front and rear with 30s.

Good input guys a appreciate it

 

[mailpup]

For 1/2" drive 24" breaker bars I have a Snap-on, Matco, Mac, Proto and SK. I also recently bought a 30" Matco breaker bar. None have given me any problems and I will say the SK is quite stoutly built.

To help avoid bending (permanently) the breaker bar shaft when using a cheater pipe, I always slide the pipe all the way down to the head of the breaker bar. If you only slide it part way down, it will put undue stress on the bar at the point where the pipe ends and you increase the chances of bending/damaging the bar at that point, kind of like how a stick breaks over your knee. When you slide the pipe all the way down, the bar does not flex as much and when you limit flexing, there is less slack in the setup. For heavy torque I prefer to use a larger diameter pipe, say 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" i.d., pipe because they are stronger and flex less. Also, when you are using a cheater pipe, you really don't need to use an extra long breaker bar. A 15" or 18" long breaker bar is sufficient as most of the stress is at the head and the pipe is your leverage anyway. Of course, you can still damage the breaker bar if you stress it enough but sliding the pipe all the way down is easier on the tool, IMO. My 2¢.

 

[ihateminimumwage]

Those are sweet, but 3/4" drive. they have 1/2" drive as well?
RP

PS, if 1/2" breaker bars are flexing that much, I think it's time to move up to 3/4" bars...

I don't believe Williams USA offers a 24" long 1/2 drive. The Longest 1/2 I've seen through them is 15 1/2" long (S-41AA & BS-41AA).

 

[Wakefield]

For 1/2" drive 24" breaker bars I have a Snap-on, Matco, Mac, Proto and SK. I also recently bought a 30" Matco breaker bar. None have given me any problems and I will say the SK is quite stoutly built.

Is your SK a 41654 with a bolt rather than a pin at the fork?
If so I think the bolt is thicker than the one used in some competitors.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

I have a 24" and 16" Sk. I have a short SK at work that I put a 3' pipe on and its fine.

 

[joshthedieseltech]

at work we broke 2 of them, no pipe just hitting the other side with a gun tightening something up, use a 1/2" HF and it was fine, no problem.

 

[mizzoutiger]

I've got an old Thorsen that has been used and abused but keeps on working! Old/vintage seems to be the way for me. Not sure where to find another if it ever breaks, but I'm pretty confident in it's durability.

 

[lbulloc2]

My mid 80's 24" SO breaker bar finally gave up this year, it was the old type pin pivot, after 25+ years of occaisional abuse with a 3' tube with dealer happily warrantied it for a new one. My 60's era 18" SO bar is still going strong

I guess if you only have weekend or home use in mind then a HF bar will certainly do the trick, and you can spare some time to drive down to the store when you need a replacement then get that.

If you're using the tool professionally and need to be able to rely on your equipment then buy one from whichever tool truck services your shop