Breaker Bars? What's worth it?
- Thread starter ZenkiS14
- Start date
I like using my old Craftsman 3/8 strong arm with crowsfeet. Using a ratchet with a crowsfoot can be awkward.
I never have tried using a HF breaker bar but my SK, Precision Instruments and Wright breaker bars have never failed me. I don't think I need anymore. Last week my high torque Milwaukee impact couldn't break loose bolts that were torqued to 485 ft/lbs almost 30 years ago. My PI torque wrench with the breaker bar attachment did the trick. My cheap 3/4" breaker bar bent the first time I used it with no cheater pipe years ago. Since then, I don't want to cheap out on a tool that could cause me harm if it fails.
I never have tried using a HF breaker bar but my SK, Precision Instruments and Wright breaker bars have never failed me. I don't think I need anymore. Last week my high torque Milwaukee impact couldn't break loose bolts that were torqued to 485 ft/lbs almost 30 years ago. My PI torque wrench with the breaker bar attachment did the trick. My cheap 3/4" breaker bar bent the first time I used it with no cheater pipe years ago. Since then, I don't want to cheap out on a tool that could cause me harm if it fails.
RoundedNut
Well-known member
I use 1/4 and 3/8 breaker bars more than 1/2. They're handy with crowfoots, bit sockets and just sockets when you don't want to test how strong your u-joints are.
I think a lot of people these days don't know how useful L handles, T handles and breaker bars can be.
I think a lot of people these days don't know how useful L handles, T handles and breaker bars can be.
1/4 breaker bars were great for lots tasks that people use an impact driver (not wrench) or cordless drill for, like panel fasteners or silly long screws holding an airbox together. Break the fastener loose with the bar at 90 degrees, then turn it to zero and spin it between your palms. I don't know the last time I used mine, but it used to save lots of time in interiors.
I really like my Snap-On 18" 3/8" drive one and haven't used the smaller one since I got the 18".
justintendo
Well-known member
they work very well with crow foot wrenches
ThePostman
Well-known member
Wright 6425, Get a decent step down to 1/2" drive. You will not look back, especially when put schedule 40 pipe on it to extend it to 7 or 8 feet. It will not break.
I'm sure that was one of those tests they did on Youtube with actual testing equipment not just how something feels.
Rabid Badger
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- Apr 2, 2018
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For $6500 it should be pretty damn accurate:
https://www.skidmore-wilhelm.com/collections/testing-standard-torque-tools/products/tq-1000
The tool truck brands should be pretty upset on those results. I'm surprised Snapon didn't sue both HF and Gearwrench for copying their soft handles.
BrandoJames
Well-known member
I've got an O'Reilly's 1/2" breaker bar (24" length)--their PowerTorque house brand ($20 bucks). It's worked really well in limited use--I keep it in my trunk for replacing a flat tire. I live in a college town and will sometimes assist a hapless college student with a flat. One young man was using his factory tire iron while turning the-wrong-way on his lugnuts. He was actually tightening them.
I pull up behind him and hand him my breaker bar. "Try the other way." When I was young and clueless, I was always grateful when an older guy showed up to help out. I guess I'm one of those older guys now...just paying it forward.
I pull up behind him and hand him my breaker bar. "Try the other way." When I was young and clueless, I was always grateful when an older guy showed up to help out. I guess I'm one of those older guys now...just paying it forward.
XxToolAholicxX
Well-known member
Harbor freight Ā§20 breaker Barr or if you got Ā§100 go for the S-K
anndel
Well-known member
Snap-on, SK, Armstrong in 3/8" and 1/2".
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Mechanical Noise
Well-known member
Gotta ask....what's cheaper than a HF bar?
I got a $6.99 "CHROME-VANADIUM" (no other markings) at Menard's a few years ago. I was impressed with it's thick, stiff handle and I wondered "How bad could it actually be?". I took a chance and bought it. As it turns out, it's been pretty good. I've used it on everything starting with lugnuts up to a REALLY TIGHT CV joint nut. The bar nearly met it's match in that nut. I had to use a cheater and most of my excessive weight about 3 feet from the socket to finally beak the nut loose. The drive is now twisted by a few degrees.
Cheap tools have never been so good. But the cheaper you go, the more you're responsible for QC.
Tool trucks are big scams. If HF 1/2 bar is not enough, and for some reason, one does not want impact, HF 3/4 bar AND sockets together is still a lot cheaper than tool truck 1/2 bars. If anyone can show evidence any tool truck 1/2 bar can beat HF 3/4, I am all ears.
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Sent from my SM-G981U1 using The Garage Journal mobile app
as a hobbiest/homeowner, I can't see upgrading from the cheap 1/2 HF https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-60819.html it's stood up to me (200lbs) bouncing on the end of it to break loose lugs that the tire shop impacted on. Has had a cheater pipe a couple times too
if i'm really worried about twisting it off i grab the 3/4" one and cheater pipe out of the cheapo HF 3/4 socket set https://www.harborfreight.com/21-piece-sae-3-4-quarter-inch-industrial-quality-socket-set-40996.html
Sure there's nicer, but 10 years of hobby work and I never felt a reason to upgrade. the little 12" 1/2" breaker never gets used, and personally I never felt a need for a 3/8" breaker bar: if it's that tight I step up the drive size
if i'm really worried about twisting it off i grab the 3/4" one and cheater pipe out of the cheapo HF 3/4 socket set https://www.harborfreight.com/21-piece-sae-3-4-quarter-inch-industrial-quality-socket-set-40996.html
Sure there's nicer, but 10 years of hobby work and I never felt a reason to upgrade. the little 12" 1/2" breaker never gets used, and personally I never felt a need for a 3/8" breaker bar: if it's that tight I step up the drive size
Gunfixr
Well-known member
I use my 3/8" breaker about as much as my 1/2". It's nice for the smaller sizes where you're using a 3/8" drive socket anyway. Pop it loose with the breaker, go to ratchet and finish.
I don't have any crow foot wrenches, and have never really knew what they were for, that having wrenches and sockets cannot do.
Maybe someone can enlighten me?
Also, i've never understood the fascination with breaker bars for lug nuts. I've done it, and found that it completely ***** next to a 4 way.
I don't have any crow foot wrenches, and have never really knew what they were for, that having wrenches and sockets cannot do.
Maybe someone can enlighten me?
Also, i've never understood the fascination with breaker bars for lug nuts. I've done it, and found that it completely ***** next to a 4 way.
n8n
Well-known member
Honestly the HF ones are not that bad. Neither are GearWrench. I had a Snap-On one for a while but I gave it to my ex to carry in the trunk of her car. All did the job fine, the S-O was a little lighter but for occasional use wasn't worth paying truck prices honestly. (I don't remember how I acquired it; probably here, honestly)
n8n
Well-known member
If you have a small car, carrying a 4-way is kind of a PITA whereas you can tuck a long breaker bar and a deep socket in the corner of a trunk.
Also, I have not ever found a 4-way that I could use on the wheels of my BMW because the "sockets" were too thick. Maybe make a 4-way with a 1/2" square drive on one arm rather than cast in "sockets"? That would be a cool tool actually. Make it folding so it doesn't take up any more space than a breaker bar, and then you could keep it in your trunk with a HF lug nut socket set.
Crowfoot is needed sometimes for access. Once I have to torque a ball joint bolt. And there is no space on top because of the axle and knuckle. So I have to attack the bolt from the side and crowfoot is the only thing that can do it. Otherwise, I have to remove the axle. That is simply not happening.
If you have gorilla arms, yeah, those 4 way works. Faster too. However, if you have more time than muscle, breaker bar is easy. You can just lean on it and use your body weight to loosen it.
bob15
Well-known member
Are they really scams? And how so? The Snap On 45Ā° offset breaker bar comes in real handy when use crowfoot wrenches in tight areas. How good is the HF 45Ā° offset breaker bar?
And who really want to start using a 3/4" drive breaker bar on smaller fasteners in tight areas. Not to mention I don't like using reducing adapters on breaker bars in general.
Nobody asked about such a rare breaker bar. It's funny that such a rare item has to be used to justify those lofty prices. I have never needed such a rare tool. When I do, I am sure things can be done without it.
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n8n
Well-known member
Torque. I have yet to use any impact, battery or air, that can apply as much torque as a breaker bar. Now, with great power comes great possibility of breaking s**t, but you know that...
They kinda are in some ways. How I break it down in my head:
Specialty tools that let a pro keep turning things out quickly and with quality? Worth it.
"Mainstream" tools (wrenches/ratchets...and breaker bars) that are higher-quality (but possibly not useful additional quality) than much-cheaper alternatives? Questionable, but an "eye of the beholder" kind of thing IMHO. If a pro says Snap On wrenches/ratchets (or whatever) "just plain work" and things get done faster because they're more comfortable/natural in their hands and the bit of extra strength/tighter tolerances make a difference I've got no standing to disagree with them. Fiddly little differences matter to me - I can totally see how they'd matter to a working pro. I think most of them would be fine with "lesser" tools and have the $$ in a retirement account, but that's just me.
Re-labeled tools that offer no additional quality (thread chasing kits, hex wrenches, etc.) other than the "tool-truck warranty"? Not worth it.
Boxes and their financing? Rip-off. (the boxes singularly for their cost)
If you're in a reasonably populated area, there's no doubt in my mind that Napa/Tekton/HF is a better choice for the financial well-being of a tech for anything where they have an equivalent tool. Boxes might be a somewhat more complicated discussion, but I don't think the equation closes in any scenario that doesn't involve brand-pride and dreams.
I'd bet a significant amount of the profit for tool-truck guys (and by extension, the brands they represent) come from the sale of boxes and the financing.
My $0.02
BlakeTheCarGuy
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have the Pittsburgh Pro in 1/2 and 3/8 drive and use them just about everyday professionally and they are amazing. No sense paying big bucks for a bar of steel thatās what my coworker said lol. Really you canāt beat them for what they are.
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It works after sitting in a trunk for 2 years. It also is so cheap you can leave one in the trunk of each vehicle and not worry about it.
bob15
Well-known member
First you're telling me about a rare breaker bar and how it can be done without it, then you're telling me you don't know what it is. Please make your mind up.
They come in real handy in tight enclosed spots when you need to use a 2"+ crowfoot wrench to tighten hydraulic fittings.
Gunfixr
Well-known member
Gunfixr
Well-known member
OK, I guess i've just not yet run into needing that access.
Idk that I have gorilla arms, but i've always found it worked better. Whenever i've tried a breaker bar, when I leaned on it, it just twisted sideways off the lug nut, rounding the end. I would have to hold the head of the breaker bar, to stabilize it.
At that point, i'm working it like a 4 way anyhow, but with only one lever.
First you're telling me about a rare breaker bar and how it can be done without it, then you're telling me you don't know what it is. Please make your mind up.
They come in real handy in tight enclosed spots when you need to use a 2"+ crowfoot wrench to tighten hydraulic fittings.
Thanks for the explanation. I made up my mind that this is a rare item that nobody mentioned until you bring this up.
n8n
Well-known member
yeah I'm That Guy who's always buying tiny little cars (with great big engines, so they're fun to work on) Current ride is an E92 335i which quite frankly feels enormous to me, only other cars I've ever had in my entire life this big were an E28 535i and a '67 Dodge Dart. I dunno what I'm going to do when this one finally goes to the Big Parking Lot in the Sky; big cars have their place but I feel so wasteful driving one every day. I do wish I'd got the sedan though, getting in or out in the work parking lot is a challenge that I didn't have with my other two "big" cars...
tool truck beats HF b/c you don't have to clock out and drive thru heavy traffic to HF, then back
your friendly truck guy comes over, hands you a new one and yer done
just wear sunglasses so you don't get blinded by all the jewelry and start buying on credit while he whispers "it'll SAVE you money" and "rates are real low right now" in your ear
I think I know why but tell me...
X673g9
Member
I have an old Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar. I forget the length, but I just use a 3/4" ID, 48" long steel pipe to extend the bar and get the torque I need. When used with an impact wrench, it has never failed me.
bob15
Well-known member
I'd take a picture of 'em sitting there, all sheared off; but they are already in the scrap yard or perhaps they are already molten down and have been made into a brand new shiny Snap On breaker bar.
Bubba Fett
Well-known member
The great thing about breaker bars is that they can swivel and be used like a giant screwdriver, which can be handy for stuff that's hard to get to. A swivel ratchet can also do that, but the heads tend to be bigger.
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finn
Well-known member
I have ābrokenā three ābreakerā bars over time. A 1/2ā Thorsen yielded at the pin hole so the pin is no longer secure. A 3/4ā (possibly) Blackhawk, with a 10ā cheater, and a 1/2ā HF.
The Thorsen I donāt remember details on, and they are defunct, so itās moot.
The (Blackhawk, I think) was at the receiving end of a 10ā cheater and I was ready for a failure, so I accept the blame for user induced abuse.
The HF was a surprise, and I could have easily been hurt. No cheater was involved. It was several years ago, and was probably not of the same design as they sell now, but since that failure, I have never felt safe using Harbor Freight tools.
I ended up cutting that HF handle off to repurpose as a tailgate release lever for my F450 dump truck. The shaft was dead soft, with no apparent heat treatment. It cut like butter.
Hopefully the current models have improved, but for me personally, their reputation has been permanently ruined.
The Thorsen I donāt remember details on, and they are defunct, so itās moot.
The (Blackhawk, I think) was at the receiving end of a 10ā cheater and I was ready for a failure, so I accept the blame for user induced abuse.
The HF was a surprise, and I could have easily been hurt. No cheater was involved. It was several years ago, and was probably not of the same design as they sell now, but since that failure, I have never felt safe using Harbor Freight tools.
I ended up cutting that HF handle off to repurpose as a tailgate release lever for my F450 dump truck. The shaft was dead soft, with no apparent heat treatment. It cut like butter.
Hopefully the current models have improved, but for me personally, their reputation has been permanently ruined.
Al Borland
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- Jan 20, 2016
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- 1,598
If you've only broken three, you're not really trying!
dont think I ever broke a breaker bar but I did bend a 1/2" one way over one time and was worried it might break
It didn't break tho and came right back to straight. It claims to be a P&C 6238
Anybody know what that is?
got it used 50 years ago so dunno it's real age - maybe Ming Dynasty?
ok, Alloy Artifacts says P&C was a subsidiary of Plomb Tool (later Proto). It was acquired by the Plomb Tool Company of Los Angeles in 1941, but they don't say if they continued using the original trademark to stamp the tools.
It didn't break tho and came right back to straight. It claims to be a P&C 6238
Anybody know what that is?
got it used 50 years ago so dunno it's real age - maybe Ming Dynasty?
ok, Alloy Artifacts says P&C was a subsidiary of Plomb Tool (later Proto). It was acquired by the Plomb Tool Company of Los Angeles in 1941, but they don't say if they continued using the original trademark to stamp the tools.