Breaking up a sidewalk slab

[JackOfDiamonds]

A few years ago a handyman poured me two squares of sidewalk, shown in red arrow below. Now, my sprinklers are leaking underneath. I don't see any alternative to breaking up this sidewalk, fixing the sprinkler and then having it re-poured. The question is, how hard is it to break up and remove a cheapo sidewalk slab like this? I'm willing to bet there's no steel reinforcement in there, and it's probably 2-4 inches thick. Can I just break it up with a good sledgehammer? Pick/mattock? Or do I need to rent a jackhammer? Or a concrete saw?

 

[nitroracer20]

You could have had it broken up in the time it took to write this post.

Think less. Break more.

 

[LXCam]

Sledge is no issue. But why break it out. Crab yourself a stick of 1/2” or 3/4” pvc, glue a hose adapter, dig a little pit front n back side and water shoot it under the walkway.

 

[P0234]

There are lots of ways to fix the sprinkler without lifting the concrete. I'd just cut the expansion joints and lift the whole section with a big pry bar.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

I'm such a lightweight DIYer, I don't even have a sledge hammer. What kind of hammer am I looking to buy here?

You can't see in the photo but it's not an isolated sidewalk. The other side of the slab is a huge driveway. So there's no way to tunnel under both sides. Tipping it up might be possible but I would probably need a concrete saw to get it started; I doubt it would come out without sawing some kerfs first.

 

[cgrutt]

You can probably repair leaks without removing concrete but you will need to dig both sides to expose pipes and then run a new section of pipe and splice it in. That said a 16# sledge from one of the big box stores would make short work of that. The initial breaks are harder than smaller pieces. Wear work gloves.

 

[RPH]

15# sledge hammer, googles, gloves, and a big pry bar 5’ at least. Try to break a corner away from the drive. Use pry bar to lift slab prop on broken piece. Once in the air, 4 swings and you have a bunch of little pieces. Did this every summer through junior high for football prep.

 

[908Jim]

To echo the above statements, I'd avoid breaking up the sidewalk. Lay down a tarp, carefully dig up and remove the grass (like sod) placing it on the tarp, and then dig down and under the sidewalk, putting your dirt on the tarp. Make the required repairs, backfill under the sidewalk with dirt and replace your grass.

 

[The Cobbler]

To echo the above statements, I'd avoid breaking up the sidewalk. Lay down a tarp, carefully dig up and remove the grass (like sod) placing it on the tarp, and then dig down and under the sidewalk, putting your dirt on the tarp. Make the required repairs, backfill under the sidewalk with dirt and replace your grass.

that could work, depending on where the leak is. close to the edge, very possible, along the back side, very unlikely.
But I would start by digging to see if you can fine the leak , then go from there

 

[wssix99]

My bet is that the leak is not under the sidewalk but is finding the looser ground around the sidewalk and just coming to the surface there.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I'd dig up the line on both sides to make sure the leak is under it. It might be possible to use the current line to pull in a new section under the sidewalk. I prefer to swing a 6 or 8 lb sledge with a long handle. If you can lift it (even an inch) it will break a lot easier.

 

[The Cobbler]

dig up the line on both sides

sounds like he has a finished driveway on the one side

 

[jack stand]

I'm such a lightweight DIYer, I don't even have a sledge hammer. What kind of hammer am I looking to buy here?

Think about hiring it out. From verification of your diagnosis to repair and replacement.
I bet you'll be happier in the end and possibly be doing this eventually anyway. With a big mess in your yard, no one's going to be eager to get involved.

 

[Skyman]

Sledge is no issue. But why break it out. Crab yourself a stick of 1/2” or 3/4” pvc, glue a hose adapter, dig a little pit front n back side and water shoot it under the walkway.

This sounds interesting, and I'm guessing what this involves and how it's done. But, a bit of detail would be great to know. Care to share or to point me toward a site? A brief web search came up empty.

TIA.

 

[cgrutt]

@Skyman Here's one example looks similar situation to OPs..

 

[LXCam]

This sounds interesting, and I'm guessing what this involves and how it's done. But, a bit of detail would be great to know. Care to share or to point me toward a site? A brief web search came up empty.

TIA.

Cgrutt covered it. I didn’t watch the video but it’s not rocket science so I have no doubt it was spot on.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I needed a new 3/4” water line to an area of the back yard that was on the other side of a 14 foot wide concrete driveway. Two dug holes and a pvc/water hose jet was easy peasy. After jetting, I just left the pvc in place to use as the water line. Our frost line here is only about a foot down.

 

[P0234]

OP, as much work as some of the jetting solutions look like, re-doing the concrete is more work, especially as a newb. And good luck finding someone to do such a small concrete job if you sub out.

But really, if there is already a line under whatever, its pretty easy to pull out the existing line and push in a new one. Especially if its been leaking there.

 

[Skyman]

Thanks, cgrutt. That was about what I'd guessed I'd see, but a few of the details of his implementation are very useful.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

Here is a better picture. It's highly likely the leak is coming from the original sprinkler or a splice under the middle somewhere. I already dug under the side a ways and it doesn't look like I got close. If I could pull up the whole slab that would be great, but since it's poured in place, that's impossible unless I saw it first. I think I need to bust it up, fix and inspect correctly, and re-pour. Or I could get a saw, saw it along the expansion lines, and try to pry it up, but it's like $250 to rent a saw.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Sounds like you've already decided to break it out so do it.

As someone already said you could have done it in the time it took to write the post. Easy peasy. A Home Depot standard-*** sledge hammer will be just fine.

 

[finn]

If you’re sure it has to go, dig the dirt out from under it, either With a shovel or water jet from a garden hose. A few blows with a six to ten lb sledge on the unsupported portion of the slab will crack it.

 

[Montauket]

I’d get the shovel before the sledge. You’re kind of putting the cart before the horse. Dig up that head and find out why it’s leaking. Broken head, broken tee, broken elbow. It looks like that head is the last one on the line. If you didn’t get a good blow out last fall it’s pretty common for there to be a little residual water at the last head. It could have froze and cracked. Get the shovel first and try to identify why it’s leaking before breaking out the hammer. Your first picture shows water exiting only on the grassy side of the cement , is it leaking through the expansion joint on the other side? If not I’d venture a good guess that your leak is at the head and not the line.

 

[mike93lx]

I agree, dig more, first.

If that slab does need to cut it out, you shouldn't need a saw as long as there really isn't rebar

 

[Montauket]

As well, looking at the picture again shows the water along the edge of the grass. This could mean your handy man re routed the water line to run along the edge of the new concrete. Not sure but he could have. The pipe should be below the frost line, seeing that your in Idaho that could be pretty deep. If you dig up the head you should be able to tell how deep the waterine is and in what direction it runs.

 

[Hank11]

I’d need a pretty bad leak before I’d “fix” that.

 

[mike93lx]

Assuming the line feeds to the old location from along the driveway? Just find the line up there and run a new one.

 

[CraigStu]

If the OP starts going at it w/ a sledge what are the chances that it will crack right at the joints so he gets a nice looking edge? I don't know because I have never done it but I would probably rent the saw.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

If the OP starts going at it w/ a sledge what are the chances that it will crack right at the joints so he gets a nice looking edge? I don't know because I have never done it but I would probably rent the saw.

Close to 100% (at least at the surface) assuming he doesn't hit the adjoining slab with the hammer.

 

[Sumboodie]

I'd try to pop them up with forklift, excavator, skid steer, etc... whatever you have.

 

[P0234]

I'd try to pop them up with forklift, excavator, skid steer, etc... whatever you have.

He doesn’t even have a sledgehammer.

 

[Sumboodie]

He doesn’t even have a sledgehammer.

Sorry, guess I should have read all the posts.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

1. The previous sprinkler head, which is now 3-4ft under the edge of the slab, is the very first head on the zone. There is no way to bypass it. Hooking up to any other head just pushes back feeds water out the same leak under the slab.

2. The supply line runs to it under 20ft of driveway. You could cut the supply line there, but then you'd have to tunnel it under 20ft of driveway.

 

[bigfunwmu]

Even with 20 feet of driveway, I would cut and repull before cracking out the slab.

Find the line on the far side of the driveway and cut it, install a new chunk of poly line more than long enough to span to clear ground of the far side. Double clamp the union fitting (with crimp clamps, not screw clamps) and wrap that joint in tile tape or heavy electrical tape so there are no sharp edges to snag. One man push from the far side, one man pull on the close side, and run the new line through.

 

[southalabama]

 

[P0234]

Even with 20 feet of driveway, I would cut and repull before cracking out the slab.

Find the line on the far side of the driveway and cut it, install a new chunk of poly line more than long enough to span to clear ground of the far side. Double clamp the union fitting (with crimp clamps, not screw clamps) and wrap that joint in tile tape or heavy electrical tape so there are no sharp edges to snag. One man push from the far side, one man pull on the close side, and run the new line through.

OP seems excited about demoing his driveway though....

 

[mike93lx]

1. The previous sprinkler head, which is now 3-4ft under the edge of the slab, is the very first head on the zone. There is no way to bypass it. Hooking up to any other head just pushes back feeds water out the same leak under the slab.

2. The supply line runs to it under 20ft of driveway. You could cut the supply line there, but then you'd have to tunnel it under 20ft of driveway.

No irrigation company on this planet would demo that to run a line. Dig a pit on each side and drive a pipe under the driveway. You can either hammer it through or use water to help. Barring big rocks, it shouldn't be a problem

Just find it on the other side, run a new line under the driveway, then tie it in

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

No irrigation company on this planet would demo that to run a line. Dig a pit on each side and drive a pipe under the driveway. You can either hammer it through or use water to help. Barring big rocks, it shouldn't be a problem

Just find it on the other side, run a new line under the driveway, then tie it in

Sorry to keep repeating, but that doesn't solve the problem and doesn't remove the need to fix the leak.

The line is still busted under the concrete so even if I run a new line and tie it in, it's going to still be leaking under the concrete in the same place. At best it's just going to be pushing water out the leak the other direction. I have to get under there and fix it or else basically dig up and re-do the entire zone.

 

[Bert_]

Sorry to keep repeating, but that doesn't solve the problem and doesn't remove the need to fix the leak.

The line is still busted under the concrete so even if I run a new line and tie it in, it's going to still be leaking under the concrete in the same place. At best it's just going to be pushing water out the leak the other direction. I have to get under there and fix it or else basically dig up and re-do the entire zone.

He is suggesting you abandon the existing line.

 

[mike93lx]

Sorry to keep repeating, but that doesn't solve the problem and doesn't remove the need to fix the leak.

The line is still busted under the concrete so even if I run a new line and tie it in, it's going to still be leaking under the concrete in the same place. At best it's just going to be pushing water out the leak the other direction. I have to get under there and fix it or else basically dig up and re-do the entire zone.

You haven't dealt with it and am only coming back to criticize a suggestion to run a new line?

Rip out the whole driveway, I guess