Brick Veneer Flashing Details

[bimmer1980]

So I'm finally ready to start the siding/brick veneer for my garage. I've done a fair amount of research, but I still have a few questions and need some input.

I know that I need to do some flashing on the brick ledge to allow the water out and to prevent the water from contacting the stud walls.

My question is which flashing material??? I know they make a variety... I've been looking at TextroFlash by Hohmann & Barnard. Others I was thinking about was Perm-a-Barrier by Grace or FortiFiber.

What do you guys recommend? What did your mason use? Anybody in the commerical industry that can recommend a good flashing material?

With the TextroFlash, they recommend a stainless steel drip edge on the exterior edge and an aluminum termination bar at the top (under the house wrap). The cost of all this is not that bad, but I'm concerned of the polyethylene substrate holding up over time.

Thanks,
Brad

P.S. the brick ledge is part of the foundation. Most of the stem wall is 12" block. The top course is 6" block, which leaves a 6" brick ledge. There will be house wrap and 1" xps foam on the stud walls. All the walls currently have 7/16" OSB as well.

The concrete floor is 2" below the top of the 6" block. Therefore the top of the floor is about 6" above the brick ledge of the 12" block.

 

[readhead]

Is the brick ledge below finish floor?

 

[bimmer1980]

added detail on brickledge vs floor... see above.

 

[brownbagg]

its like a tar stick and seal, bottom lip goes into the mortar joint and then its sticks to the wall about 18 inches. water runs down tar paper, hit the stick and seal and goes out the weep holes.

 

[readhead]

Since it is below finish floor you can run the paper down to the ledge and be done. Be sure to put weeps at the bottom course and don't let the cavity fill up with mud. You will need to install brick ties to the studs. The foam will probably compress enough to get the ties tight to the sheeting.

 

[Pig In A Poke]

Permibarier bring your brick up 2 courses above grade, fill the cavity with mortar, flashing should sit above this course and travel up the back wall a minimum of 12" and then turn into the wall surface or at minimum travel behing your sheeting material and be fastened with a termination bar. I am a second generation Mason and have 15 years in the trade before beginning architectural school.

preferably like this, although the metal edge is not necessary on residential structures, as they are not typically tall enough to get that much water behind.

 

[readhead]

Typical IMI Detail PIP. Wrong condition.

 

[Pig In A Poke]

Typical IMI Detail PIP. Wrong condition.

IMI does not have any details with stud walls or cmu footings, I added them as a visual reference, not a specific detail.

 

[readhead]

PIP, not picking on you. That detail is right for s.o.g. flashing but his ledge is below f.f. I suppose 6" of water could back up if all the weeps clogged but that would be a long shot. I doubt that a bond break is necessary or required.

 

[marypitts745]

You will need to install brick ties to the studs. The foam will probably compress enough to get the ties tight to the sheeting.

 

[joes169]

IMPO, it doesn't matter what brand you use for hte flashing, as long as it's a decent self-adhesive/self-healing. Just don't let it out in the sun for months on end, get the brick laid up around it. And make sure you keep a decent cavity behind the wall AND keep the weeps above finished grade..........

 

[KELLHAMMER]

I always specify laminated copper flashings

See their commercial catalog


http://www.advancedbuildingproducts.com/commercial/copper-fabric.cfm

 

[bimmer1980]

Thanks for the feed back guys.

How much is the laminated copper flashings? Where can a person buy that from?

I'm thinking of using the HB 2 seal 1" anchors with a 3 or 4" wire tie. Has anyone used that? This tie is made specifically to go thru the foam and seal against the sheathing/house wrap.