Bridgeport Mill, what is it worth?

[pvanderlugt]

Hi guys,
was looking into buying a new drill press for the shop, and this popped up locally….. not knowing what something like this would be worth, thought I would ask the group… this in in NW Ohio, it is 3 phase, not an issue for me, appears to be in reasonable shape, from what I can tell as a “I know nothing about machining” person…Weight, 3 phase not an issue, and I do have space for it…. Also, this would be for general hobbyist, mostly automotive and agricultural parts making, not building the space shuttle…. Willing and able to learn and repair as needed…
Thanks in advance
Pete

 

[mreisner]

I paid $1,500 for mine a few years ago and it had a 220 motor on it. Depends on the area of course, some areas they're more common than others, but 1300 to 2,000 depending on backlash Etc. Is a fair price

 

[OccupantRJ]

$1,500 to $3,500 in Eastern NC. I have bought several from $600-$1,200 within an hour and a half radius of me to resell.

 

[Ditchdigger]

In the Pacific Northwest you won't find a J-head Bridgeport for under 4 grand..... ever.

 

[elmer]

Paid $1500 for this one, Was an Internet auction. Came from school in Cleveland OH.

 

[pvanderlugt]

Thanks for a quick response guys… quick lookover, as a layman, showed a little slop in some of the adjustments, but not horrible… I am sure I could figure the proper way to fix/adjust/repair that…..I will take a look on local Craigslist/marketplace as well, see what stuff is available/prices… in the past it has been mostly the much larger versions…..
Pete

 

[MushCreek]

There's no way to tell from here, but at least it doesn't look beat. Everything is clean and orderly, which is a good sign. The hardest thing to fix would be if the ways (what it travels on) are badly worn. For garage use, though, I'm sure it would be fine. Here in upstate SC, I'd say at least $2000, especially if it comes with the tooling shown. Once you have a mill and learn how to use it, you'll wonder how you ever got by without one.

 

[American Locomotive]

Machine seems to be in okay shape. It seems to have a DRO, which is a nice addition (assuming they work, looks like one axis died and they replaced it with a small standalone one).

The choice to get rid of the table travel stops and put the DRO scale on the front is inspired, but not a deal breaker.

It's normal for bridgeport handles to have some slop in them. You can check the backlash by moving the handles, and looking at the numbers to see how much free play they have before they start moving the table. The numbers on the handle dials represent .001", so 25 would be 0.025".

A new BP might have 0.05" backlash, a good used one might be around 0.015"-0.020". A really worn one might be around 0.075"-0.100" of backlash or more. I can tell you that a machine with 0.075" of backlash will be very difficult to use without a working DRO.

 

[MushCreek]

New lead screws aren't all that expensive, or hard to put in. If the ways are worn, though, that's a different story. My old J-head is a 1965, still has the original flaking on the ways, and backlash is less than .010". I suspect it came out of a school where it didn't get used much. When looking at an old machine, other than visual inspection, I grab the table and try to twist it to see how loose it is. To get more involved, you adjust the gibs at the middle of the table, then see how much the bind up towards the ends. If it's very tight at the ends and very loose in the middle, the ways are shot. They can still make 'good enough' parts, though. I've made parts on some VERY tired old B'ports.

 

[dr_clyde]

I'd have a hard time paying more than $1200 for a plain J head. I've bought 2J head machines for $1500.

Even if the machine has a fair amount of wear, it should be just fine for a fancy drill press or light garage milling.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I think most of you guys are pretty light on price.

Around here, I think you're looking at $2500 to $3500.

To the OP, if you really only need a drill press, this is going to take up 3 times as much floor space. Also, I have a milling machine in my garage and never use it as a drill press. If you're just wanting to drill a hole perpendicular to a flat, an actual drill press is much handier.

That being said, I use my milling machine a lot. As with most tools, it's more useful the more tooling you buy for it. Different vises, hold downs, a rotary table, cutters, more cutters, collets,....I've got more in all of that than I do my milling machine.

 

[ez-duzit]

A milling machine does not take the place of a drill press. Virtually every shop needs at least 1 drill press. I have 4. Plus a vertical mill.

 

[American Locomotive]

A milling machine does not take the place of a drill press. Virtually every shop needs at least 1 drill press. I have 4. Plus a vertical mill.

If we're talking about a Bridgeport-style mill with a movable quill - I will strongly disagree with that, especially if your shop is tight on space. Several of my friends have very compact home shop setups, and none of them have a drill press. The manufacturing company I used to work for had a 90,000 square foot shop with over a hundred machines. There was one drill press in the entire building. If you needed to poke a hole in something, you'd just shove a chuck into one of the Bridgeports and use that.

I really can't think of a single thing a drill press can do, that a Bridgeport couldn't do better.

If you're talking about a heavier-duty vertical mill with a fixed head - then I will agree, they make a poor drill press.

 

[ez-duzit]

...Several of my friends have very compact home shop setups, and none of them have a drill press...

You're referring to a bunch of amateurs that are "getting by" because they haven't sufficient space to own the right equipment. That's OK. But using a mill as a drill press is still a compromise, just as using a drill press as a mill.

 

[dr_clyde]

You're referring to a bunch of amateurs that are "getting by" because they haven't sufficient space to own the right equipment. That's OK. But using a mill as a drill press is still a compromise, just as using a drill press as a mill.

I have the right equipment in a professional setting.

Name the things a stand-alone drill press does better than a comparable sized knee mill.

I have 2 Bridgeports, a gear head Solberga 20” drill press, a small radial arm drill and a 4020 CNC VMC. I can put holes in things six ways to Sunday and I use a Bridgeport for 95% of my manual drilling. The ONLY reason I have the drill presses is for the use of taper shank tooling or for work outside the envelope of a Bridgeport where the size of the work or the power feed of the drill press makes the job unsuitable for the mill.

I’m working in a shop right now with enough space and budget to buy any machine we need. We have 7 wire EDMs, 2 VMCs, 2 Bridgeports, 4 flat lasers, a tube laser and a pneumatic tapping arm. We can put a hole in just about anything and make a profit doing it. You know what we don’t have? A drill press. We don’t need one.

Drill presses make ****** mills but knee mills make excellent drill presses.

 

[ez-duzit]

...
Name the things a stand-alone drill press does better than a comparable sized knee mill...

You're trying too hard to be clever here. My 4 drill presses occupy about the same space as a single knee mill. And their aggregate cost is less.

But since you asked:

With a common drill press it is so very easy to get the table completely out of the way for tall workpieces that simply won't fit between the knee and the head. The table easily and quickly adapts and/or tilts for various workpieces without the need to remove, tram and reinstall a vise (which is a virtual necessity on the mill).

 

[MJD1]

Using a mill to make holes in some setups is a pita. Having a vise and or rotary table on the mill often means removal and dialing it back in. Also in the home shop that usually also means firing up a phase converter just to pop in simple holes that often aren't part of a precise layout. Many times I will spot and pilot drill holes on the mill and then use the clausing dp to enlarge to final size. Keeps the mill clean of bigger chips and has a ton more headroom for running longer drills or reamers.

 

[American Locomotive]

You're referring to a bunch of amateurs that are "getting by" because they haven't sufficient space to own the right equipment. That's OK. But using a mill as a drill press is still a compromise, just as using a drill press as a mill.

I mean, two of my friends make money with their shops, and the company I worked for just in one department had 30 CNC machines that each cost more money then you'd make in two lifetimes. No drill presses. But sure, they're "amateurs".

With a common drill press it is so very easy to get the table completely out of the way for tall workpieces that simply won't fit between the knee and the head. The table easily and quickly adapts and/or tilts for various workpieces without the need to remove, tram and reinstall a vise (which is a virtual necessity on the mill).

A Bridgeport has 16" of knee travel. I've been doing "shop things" for 20 years. I have never needed to put a workpiece taller than that into a drill press. I know a couple of professional woodworkers as well, and neither one of them have a drill press capable of accepting a work piece taller than that. Not all drill presses have tables that can tilt either - many of the larger more rigid drill presses only have swivel tables.

If you want to drill something at an angle on a Bridgeport, you just clamp it in the vice at an angle. If you really have to, you can tilt or nod the head.

The reality is that a Bridgeport can do 98% of the things a drill press can do, and do them better by virtue of being more rigid. A drill press can only do about 2% of the things a Bridgeport can do.

For a home shop and most professional settings, if you have a mill, you do not need a drill press. If you're going to be drilling holes lengthwise into table legs all day, then sure, get a tall floor standing drill press. But if you're tight on space and on a budget, there's no need to bother with a drill press. I haven't needed one at home in years, and neither have any of my friends in their shops.

 

[AEAdam]

You're trying too hard to be clever here. My 4 drill presses occupy about the same space as a single knee mill. And their aggregate cost is less.

But since you asked:

With a common drill press it is so very easy to get the table completely out of the way for tall workpieces that simply won't fit between the knee and the head. The table easily and quickly adapts and/or tilts for various workpieces without the need to remove, tram and reinstall a vise (which is a virtual necessity on the mill).

We get your point. But I too use my mill as a drill press. It’s a great drill press. If I had tons of space, sure I’d have a DP.

The one point I’d concede; I don’t love drilling wood on my Bridgeport. Really should clean that mess up. All the other stuff, tilting the head, moving the knee, etc, is fine in a non pro shop.

 

[dr_clyde]

We get your point. But I too use my mill as a drill press. It’s a great drill press. If I had tons of space, sure I’d have a DP.

The one point I’d concede; I don’t love drilling wood on my Bridgeport. Really should clean that mess up. All the other stuff, tilting the head, moving the knee, etc, is fine in a non pro shop.

Woodworking is a very good point. I was viewing this from a metalworking perspective.

If i did any amount of woodworking at all a drill press would for sure be more appropriate than a mill.

 

[GeoBruin]

The one thing I've heard it said a Bridgeport can't do is drill something long/tall, but you can lay the head over on its side and you can drill something infinitely long. That said, it's a pain.

I have a very small shop with very limited space, and I currently have a knee mill and a drill press. Every time I get annoyed at how little space I have, I contemplate getting rid of the drill press, but for drilling a quick hole, I do tend to use the drill press first. It also takes up so little floor space, I wouldn't gain much.

Tough call.

 

[dr_clyde]

I will say, a drill press is handy. I use mine.

But I will also say, gun to my head, if I can only keep a mill or a drill dress I’m keeping the mill.

 

[dr_clyde]

The one thing I've heard it said a Bridgeport can't do is drill something long/tall, but you can lay the head over on its side and you can drill something infinitely long. That said, it's a pain.

I have a very small shop with very limited space, and I currently have a knee mill and a drill press. Every time I get annoyed at how little space I have, I contemplate getting rid of the drill press, but for drilling a quick hole, I do tend to use the drill press first. It also takes up so little floor space, I wouldn't gain much.

Tough call.

I mean, it’s rare but it does once in a blue moon come up.

If it’s in a shaft of any kind, I’ll probably do it in the lathe before I try to do it in the mill or drill press. Even if I have to use a 4 jaw for square stock or off center holes.

I’ve made jigs that hang over the mill table to keep the part rigid while drilling and tapping the end of parts. I couldn’t feasibly do that and keep location on a drill press. But you’re still limited to about 3 feet or so.

Yes, a drill press has its place. And yes, I would recommend one if you have the space. But to say it’s better than a knee mill for most easy drilling in common metal parts is pretty untrue. Cheaper? Yes. Faster? Maybe. Depends on the part. I use a mag drill more than a regular drill press or mill for weird awkward parts.

 

[alfadan]

The mill is great for making holes just for the simple fact it has x-y movement and dial or DRO. I too use the mill most times but own both cuz I'm pretty cool

 

[Jswain]

The one thing I've heard it said a Bridgeport can't do is drill something long/tall, but you can lay the head over on its side and you can drill something infinitely long. That said, it's a pain.

I have a very small shop with very limited space, and I currently have a knee mill and a drill press. Every time I get annoyed at how little space I have, I contemplate getting rid of the drill press, but for drilling a quick hole, I do tend to use the drill press first. It also takes up so little floor space, I wouldn't gain much.

Tough call.

I feel the same. The drill press doesn't take up enough space to get the axe, yet....but I've thought about it more then once since I got my RF45(realizing it's not a knee mill)

I don't feel super bad about leaving the drill press less then perfect either at the end of the job.

Ideally you have both, if I had to choose then milling machine stays for sure.

 

[Whitworth]

I shall opine. A mill is a mediocre to terrible substitute for a drill press.
Breaking down a setup mid-project just to drill a couple holes is a ridiculous waste of time. Also, limited height under the spindle, and probably not the ideal speed range for what you may want to drill. Plus drilling any wood on a mill makes a mess.
The advantage I only see is X and Y positioning. And power downfeed if your mill is so equipped.

A small floor standing drill press doesn't take up hardly any room in all but the smallest shops.

 

[Sumboodie]

You're referring to a bunch of amateurs that are "getting by" because they haven't sufficient space to own the right equipment. That's OK. But using a mill as a drill press is still a compromise, just as using a drill press as a mill.

Uh... pretty much every shop "gets by"

 

[dutchgray]

I'd have a hard time paying more than $1200 for a plain J head. I've bought 2J head machines for $1500.

Even if the machine has a fair amount of wear, it should be just fine for a fancy drill press or light garage milling.

I paid £3,800 for my 2J but it was during covid times, recently I could have bought an ok 2J with DRO, vice, set of collets locally for £1,500 it was a machine that had be professionally rebuilt when the current owner had bought it, in the early 90's and had home shop use only since, I knew about it as I had moved it for the owner previously.

The absolute bottom of the barrel for any "working" Bridgeport or clone is £500 over here, but under £1000 is pretty rare and they sell quick at that (if they are openly advertised, loads of buddy deals happen or widows get ripped off by machinery dealers)

 

[dutchgray]

I shall opine. A mill is a mediocre to terrible substitute for a drill press.
Breaking down a setup mid-project just to drill a couple holes is a ridiculous waste of time. Also, limited height under the spindle, and probably not the ideal speed range for what you may want to drill. Plus drilling any wood on a mill makes a mess.
The advantage I only see is X and Y positioning. And power downfeed if your mill is so equipped.

A small floor standing drill press doesn't take up hardly any room in all but the smallest shops.

This is pretty much how I feel.

I use a drill over the mill for anything non precision, wood butchering, often for second opps and definitely for a countersink to deburr.
The one in my shop is a 1 1/4" capacity in steel MT3 spindle gear head with power feed.
I also have a couple at home in the garage, a small 1/4" sensitive in my storage container, along side an arboga radial arm and a 2" capacity belt drive with back gear and power feed that lives outside the workshop with a tarp over it as there's no room inside.

If I really didn't have the space the drills would go before the mill, but a lot of other stuff would have gone first, big twin wheel grinders, tool and cutter grinder, surface grinder, shaper.

 

[Farmall450]

They're both nice, but if you can only have one...get the BP!

 

[AEAdam]

One more thing: I live in old tool hell. Bought my pristine 1967 BP for $500.

Where I live, drill presses are very often more expensive than mills because they are easier to move.

Were I to list my mill for sale, I’m sure I’d get a lot of interest but few real buyers. You and a friend can wrestle almost any drill press into the back of a pick up. You can figure out how to get it down the basement stairs.

Whenever the subject of mill pricing comes up, it’s really important to consider the customers perspective. If they can easily extract and move something as heavy as a Bridgeport, they will find deals. If you want to sell for a good price, offer delivery.

But the point is- my mill was cheaper than most drill presses. I can find bridgeports for half the price of new Chinese mills that are half the size. But that’s the point. Grizzly delivers those mills no problem

 

[MushCreek]

I worked in machine shops for my whole career. Drill presses were rarely used except for production work. I have a drill press that I used to use for deburring/chamfering holes. I haven't touched it in a couple years. I'm just more used to the B'port, I guess.

 

[no704]

My drill press has had a wire wheel in it for over three years now. And I’ll usually still use the bench grinder first. It does do a great job of cleaning out my 4” casting shells of the left over plaster.

 

[WAS Jr]

When i got my mill the drill press became a large tap guide.
bill s

 

[Willie Makeit]

You're referring to a bunch of amateurs that are "getting by" because they haven't sufficient space to own the right equipment. That's OK. But using a mill as a drill press is still a compromise, just as using a drill press as a mill.

Been in the machining trade for over 30 years, never seen an instance where using a mill over a drill press was ever considered a "compromise"

 

[Steve_P]

I've been in a lot of big machine shops over the years. I don't recall ever seeing anything like a 17" drill press you'd see in a home shop. A giant radial drill press, that weighs thousands of pounds, yes.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Was looking for something else and came upon this old thread. It is pretty interesting to say the least and the hautuer some of you show is also rather interesting
Which machine is "better" really depends on what what you're doing.
If you only have room or $ for one machine then a vertical mill is better. It will do far more than than a drill press will. But they **** if you are just punching holes in heavy metal where accuracy isn't that critical.
Set up time in a mill takes longer, tramming the vise (before or after) takes longer, changing bits takes longer. An R8 collet doesnt have the holding power of a morse taper. The table on a mill is usually set higher so you're farting around with the knee and lifting heavy stuff higher to get it into a vise or onto the table.
A drill press table is deeper, nearly always set lower, you can raise and lower them faster and use the same stand that you have for your bandsaw to support one end of a long piece. On a drill press you can drill a much bigger, taller items too.
In a hobby shop a bridgeport is often shoved into a corner at a 45 degree angle which makes them harder to get one end of a long piece into and forget drilling the middle of a long piece.
A 2J BP with variable speed is pretty fast to change speeds on but changing the belt on an old J head is slow and you need a stool to get up there to do it. A gear head drill you can change speeds in seconds not minutes.
A mill will do SO much more than a drill.
But a drill will do one thing Much easier, faster, better than a mill.

 

[john.k]

Unfortunately.......... a newbie using a BP as a drill will drill into the table ,and might even drill into the feed screw under the table ........so I suggest a proper drill will be better.

 

[m.d.hunter63@hotmail.]

Have 4 mills, zero drill presses, I'm an amateur

 

[AEAdam]

Have 4 mills, zero drill presses, I'm an amateur

Have you drilled into your feed screws yet? I personally have not.