Briggs and Stratton 3 Hp - I’d numbers

[TKM51]

I have dragged home a 3 hp B&S roto tiller which has been abandoned for several years . The serial and engine Id are on sticky attached to the rewind housing . It appears to have been painted over at the factory or some other fellow was there first . Regardless I tried sanding and have obliterated the numbers . Any ideas where I should investigate .
regards-
terry

 

[four.cycle]

^ The production numbers on all Briggs & Stratton 2-5 hp engines is STAMPED on the blower housing, generally above the spark plug.
On some LATER PRODUCTION engines, it is stamped on the blower housing on a flange that protrudes out over the muffler (on the later "Quantum" engine, which unless I am mistaken was not used on tillers.)

You will need the MODEL, TYPE, and CODE numbers off the blower housing to insure that you are getting the correct parts (if you're tearing into the engine or replacing crankshaft seals.)

It's pretty difficult to SAND the numbers off. You could buzz them off with an angle grinder, I suppose, but generally they're stamped pretty clearly.

Take another look. If you cannot find numbers, post a couple photos of the engine. Exactly WHAT parts are you looking for?
If it's an early choke-type carburetor, you're going to need those numbers to find a carb kit.
Otherwise..... kind of like 1958-1974 Chevrolet "small block" engines - "they're all the same" (pretty much) - depends upon exactly what part you're after.

 

[RTM]

What he said. My B&S had them well hidden under other equipment pieces, but it was there. A bright light will help.

 

[four.cycle]

He's most likely working with a horizontal-shaft engine, and you almost have to REMOVE the blower housing in order to see the entire number on some of those models.

OP: you're looking for a string of THREE sets of numbers and letters....

 

[TKM51]

Ok these are the numbers I found originally. These are the only numbers I can find ,but I can’t get them to match up with B & S numbers

 

[humber2]

After watching a few Taryl fixes all YouTube clips I can see the date in the third set of numbers as 1964.

 

[The Cobbler]

I used to have a B&S service manual that had all the numbers but unfortunately I got rid of it

 

[TKM51]

Those are the correct numbers ? Why can’t I pull them up . Regardless , that’s good , 1964 is going to help . Thank-you - It’s still younger than me -LOL

 

[four.cycle]

yes. production year was 1964 (August 7th if my memory serves me correctly... ) but I cannot make sense of that first string, which is what you need to pin down...
you've sanded or ground off some of the numbers?

if it's a 1964 it's got a point-triggered ignition system and uses a Niehoff SE-11 point & condenser set. (fairly common - all the same 2 to 5 hp up to 1982. lawnmower shop will have them in B&S. spendy now - $12 bucks last set I bought.
carburetor kit is where you're going to run into snags.
air filter go to the lawnmower shop and match it up if you can't find that number.
OEM spark plug was a CJ-11 Champion, but a 255 Autolite will run the engine. You might want a taller plug if it uses a metal tab to kill the engine.

 

[humber2]

Here’s a quick summary.



And as Taryl would say “There’s your dinner”

 

[TKM51]

I hand sanded this ,so I am almost positive I didn’t remove numbers . As I said I can’t get the numbers to come up at all . I am a lot further ahead today than yesterday. I do appreciate all the help
regards
terry

 

[JohnDeere]

It was made on August 7, 1964.

 

[TKM51]

I need some more help / direction I’d call it air vane . i need a part number . Without a serial number I am having difficulty

 

[larry4406]

I need some more help / direction I’d call it air vane . i need a part number . Without a serial number I am having difficulty

Part of the governor assembly.

 

[The_Geologist]

I found some manuals on the B+S website once I put a zero in front of the first 5 digits of the model number (so 082902-0176 is what I typed in).

Attached is an owner's manual and a parts manual that I got off the site. Hope they are useful to you!

 

[TKM51]

thank- you - so all I do is add a zero and I find my unit - I can’t download the files . But I will try to follow your steps and visit the site
regards
terry

 

[four.cycle]

@TKM51 - once you finally are able to determine what that model number is (the first series of numbers) you can generally find what you're looking for:
jackssmallengines.com
partstree.com

may take some poking about.
I have half a dozen of those governor vanes out in the garage but mine are all for the later "Quattro" engine.

 

[Old Steamer]

I need some more help / direction I’d call it air vane . i need a part number . Without a serial number I am having difficulty

What you are looking at is referred to in the parts books as the Blade - Governor. The part number is 68388.

There is one on eBay now for $3 plus shipping.

 

[Sumboodie]

Probably a 68388 if the governor blade is what you need. Under $10.

 

[TKM51]

What you are looking at is referred to in the parts books as the Blade - Governor. The part number is 68388.

There is one on eBay now for $3 plus shipping.

I appreciate the help - yes it’s on E-Bay $23 international shipping . I don’t think they want to ship to Canada

 

[Old Steamer]

TKM51 - if you would like photos of the parts list for your engine model, PM me with your email address.

 

[four.cycle]

that would be the one - uses a 5/16" socket to take the screw out.

 

[TKM51]

OK ! next problem I pulled the pull start and flywheel etc no issues . Pulled the cover on the points and coil . Totally saturated with oil and small accumulated puddles of oil .
Looking back the motor was dirty when I brought it home . I just assumed it was dirt and oil etc from years in the garden and abuse .
Any idea what the problem is ?

 

[The Cobbler]

seal on the crankshaft is my guess

 

[four.cycle]

^ no.

If you have an older (pre-1982) Briggs & Stratton engine and the points and condenser are flooded with oil under that little aluminum cover:

Somebody inverted the mower or turned it over on its side far enough that the oil drained out of the crankcase through that teeny-tiny hole that you'll discover once you've washed all that oil out of there, and the oil shorts out the points and condenser.

Sop as much of it up as you can with a paper towel. Remove the points. Remove the condenser. Clean up any remaining oil. Clean the cover. (aerosol brake cleaner, Gumout jetspray - either will work just dandy.)

New points can be found most anywhere. Niehoff part number is SE-11 (here's what they look like) You have to have that funny little white nylon widget or you will never get the condenser installed properly. Point gap is ..... .020" as I recall. (PLugs are .030 Motorcraft number 255)(O'Reilly's Auto Parts might have the point and condenser set in stock.)(big maybe)
Put it back together, make sure everything is nice and clean, distributor cam lubricant (Niehoff T22) is highly recommended.

Remember: wheel side goes DOWN. Shiny side goes UP.

( * very rarely do I find it necessary to replace the TOP crankshaft seal on a B&S. Lower seals - yes. I even made a tool for installing them out of piece of PVC pipe. But the upper seal - generally okay. )

* do not block the vent hole under that little aluminum cover! *

 

[TKM51]

Four cycle - I appreciate your help . I was thinking top seal ,but it was the only thing that seemed dry . I dried Everything out and installed new pts & condenser . I didn’t notice the vent I will pull it apart and have a look .

 

[tom coffey]

Manufactured August 7, 1964

 

[jb books]

82902 breaks down as:
8 cubic inch/`3 HP
2 Just B&S basic design
9 Vertical Crankshaft
0 Plain bushing flange mount
2 Rope pull starter
If it's on a tiller, and you have a horizontal shaft engine someone changed the blower housing (happens a lot)

 

[TKM51]

I appreciate the input it all helps— Thanks

 

[TKM51]

Question for today day . I am changing the coil . Instructions say change the plunger plug . Where would I find the plug .

 

[OccupantRJ]

There is a plunger under the aluminum cover that actuates the points. It has a line around it to indicate when it is worn too short. That is checked by turning the engine until the line on the pin is even with the block. If the lines goes inside the hole the pin needs replacing. That is the only thing that comes to mind at the moment.

 

[TKM51]

Ok ,it is the pin balances the long movable arm of the points . I checked it is moveable ,but I didn’t look or notice a wear line
But I do have a good spark ,so I will leave it buttoned up . I will source one to keep on the ready
thanks for the help
terry

 

[four.cycle]

Plunger Plug?

You got me. The "coil" on that engine is a stand-alone part. Bolts down to the top of the cylinder with two long skinny screws, one of which will be the attachment point for the governor vane (post #22).
I've never replaced any "plungers".

Air gap between the flywheel and the two "arms" on the coil:
.006" = .010"
(I use the small cardboard divider strips from a box of Lipton tea. cereal box is about the same, but you have to cut a strip.)
Works a lot easier when you can do both legs of the coil at the same time.
Tie your "deadman handle" down to the handlebars first so that you can rotate the crankshaft freely. Loosen two screws that hold coil down. Set air gap between legs of coil and the BIG part of the flywheel (where the magnets are.) Secure screws holding down coil.
Tight is tight enough - it's just a little coil, not a head bolt. Stripping THAT screw junks the engine.

(* disclaimer: I switched to Twining's Tea years ago, and I think Lipton made a change in their packaging. I saved dozens of these because I formerly would use them once and toss them. The ones below are my "users" - just a wee bit more stout than your average cereal box.)

 

[TKM51]

This coil came with two wires one for the kill switch one for the points . I put fresh points in also as the the entire area was oil soaked. To connect the wire to the points . The plunger is the pivot pt for the points

 

[OccupantRJ]

In the 70’s when I worked on small engines, the Briggs part number for the ignition points was 294628. I still remember that more than 50 years later. I installed a hell of a lot of them back then. There was also a number for the points with a new points actuator pin included, but I do not remember that part number.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

If you're getting oil. Your seal is probably worn out. Lots of videos on changing crank seals.

 

[TKM51]

I don’t seem to have oil seepage . One of the contributors to this thread suggested someone had tipped the motor which caused crankcase oil to seep in

 

[four.cycle]

^ That's how most of them end up with oil all over the points and condenser, yes.

After I overhauled and repainted a mower on my living room floor up in West Seattle, and turned it upside-down to repaint the bottom of the deck, I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start.
My buddy came up and gave me a crash course in "Briggs & Stratton point-triggered-ignition repair".
I'm pretty sure my hair was still one color back then.

Clean the oil out, as I described above, set your point gap (.020")
Spark plug gap .030" (Motorcraft #255 is my preferred plug)(longer plug may be required if the coil wire is a shortie.)
If the flywheel key has been smooshed or damaged in any way, replace it.
Put it back together and drive it.

Again, I have very seldom had the need to replace upper crankshaft seals. Lots of lower ones, but seldom uppers. Not difficult.
Pry it out a screwdriver making sure to NOT damage the VERY SOFT aluminum casting. Get a new seal, smear some grease on it, drive it in with a proper driver. (In a few cases, one of your 1/2" drive deep-wells may work, but I had to make one out of a piece of PVC pipe buy sanding down the outside diameter of the PVC pipe on my belt sander until it had the correct outside diameter. I think I did the ID with just a piece of emery cloth rolled up around my finger. )

 

[TKM51]

I appreciate the help . I have good strong spark now . It still refuses to start ,I reworked the carb last fall/ winter . l’ll have to revisit -

 

[four.cycle]

ahhh... remove spark plug.
pull rope about 30 or 40 times.
walk away.

put plug back in (loosely)
pull rope a couple times.
quickly pull plug out. smell.
gas? no gas?

you're either getting no fuel or you've got no compression, but mower engines will run with very little compression.
if you're hearing a sound when pulling the rope like it WANTS to start, it's probably got enough compression to fire.

remove air cleaner assembly. make sure choke is OPEN.
take a tiny cap. like the cap off a spray can of Gumout Jetspray.
dribble a TINY amount of gasoline into it. (TINY... like... half a teaspoon)
tie your "dead man lever" down to the handlebars. make sure throttle is wide open.
pour gasoline directly into throat of carburetor and see if it fires.

if it starts momentarily and dies, you've got a carb issue.

(I've never used starting fluid in my life. sold a boatload. never used it other than for removing ball-point pen ink from my good shirts when working on a counter.)