Britool (Made in England) thread

[Bob H]

To appreciate how small the 9 and 11 BA wrench is a match stick should be alongside in the image.

My BA wrenches are over many makers with no clips or wallet pouch packs.

But next needing showing are the BA ring spanners.

My BA ring spanner’s are sadly not Britool, so we are open to other offerings ?

 

[Dave455]

To appreciate how small the 9 and 11 BA wrench is a match stick should be alongside in the image.

My BA wrenches are over many makers with no clips or wallet pouch packs.

But next needing showing are the BA ring spanners.

Here’s a Britool 8 x 10 BA, with a matchstick as requested, and a Bedford 8 x 10 for comparison.

Where the larger sizes are concerned, I prefer the Britool. Definitely a bit heftier. The Bedford are beautifully made, but a little dainty in the larger sizes.

Where the smaller sizes (such as this) are concerned, I think I generally prefer the Bedford.

The correct “Garage Journal” solution, is of course to own both...!

 

[Dave455]

My BA ring spanner’s are sadly not Britool, so we are open to other offerings ?

Although this is a Britool thread, I think anything relevant is welcome.

Here’s a Blue Point 2 x 4 BA that I use quite regularly. I suspect this has some age to it.

 

[humber2]

Here's a selection from various makers of BA wrenches.

Top to bottom......

Matador 2-4
Gordon 4-6
Britool 5-6
Hazel 1
Garringtons 2,3,5
King **** 0-1
Stahlwille 8-8

 

[GDO]

Hi there. New member her.

I'm 'restoring' my dad's old socket set. Doing a bit of interweb research and came across this thread. Looking around I now think this set is a Britool socket set 100A. But I can only find (on here) this set in a red box and dad's is a grey/blue, at least on the inside. Dad past away suddenly a couple of years ago and I'm only now able to work through his old tools. Want to keep and use as many as I can, we used to do a lot of 'tinkering', so some good memories. My son (age 7) is now tinkering on M-bike with me and I want the set to last another 30-40 years and be past on to him.

The set looks to be missing a lot of the original sockets but has plenty of other additions/replacements. Most, if not all, the other items (don't know their tech terms) seem to be present (E74, E79, E42 etc.).

The box (case) is a grey/blue on the inside but, dad was REME, so the outside is green, oh and rusty. Looking to restore colours so wanted to know if anyone can help ID the grey/blue paint colour. The green is probably BS381C Middle Bronze Green but I can work that one out.

I'll post some pics, currently the box is in some Deox-C to remove the rust and get it ready for painting. Sockets and other items all cleaned, serviced and ready to go back in.

Your help will be much appreciated.
G

 

[Bob H]

Hi there. New member her.

I'm 'restoring' my dad's old socket set. Doing a bit of interweb research and came across this thread. Looking around I now think this set is a Britool socket set 100A. But I can only find (on here) this set in a red box and dad's is a grey/blue, at least on the inside. Dad past away suddenly a couple of years ago and I'm only now able to work through his old tools. Want to keep and use as many as I can, we used to do a lot of 'tinkering', so some good memories. My son (age 7) is now tinkering on M-bike with me and I want the set to last another 30-40 years and be past on to him.

The set looks to be missing a lot of the original sockets but has plenty of other additions/replacements. Most, if not all, the other items (don't know their tech terms) seem to be present (E74, E79, E42 etc.).

The box (case) is a grey/blue on the inside but, dad was REME, so the outside is green, oh and rusty. Looking to restore colours so wanted to know if anyone can help ID the grey/blue paint colour. The green is probably BS381C Middle Bronze Green but I can work that one out.

I'll post some pics, currently the box is in some Deox-C to remove the rust and get it ready for painting. Sockets and other items all cleaned, serviced and ready to go back in.

Your help will be much appreciated.
G

Have a look on page 1 on here, if you have not already done so. There is a lovely 100a on there. Can’t help with the paint, I’m afraid. Incidentally, my son was in REME for 23 years, and came out as a Sgt Major, but unfortunately without a Britool socket set ! And welcome on board !

 

[GDO]

Thanks for the welcome Bob. I was that first page that helped me know what this set was (originally at least). Been reviewing the kit a bit more since first post and there is less original than I thought. Some of it being 'service issue' with the 'Broad Arrow' stamp. I guessing as dad was an Armourer that much of what was in the set was that needed to fix the boom sticks he was sent to fix, in odd places. I also have his Armourer's 'bag' with the more 'specialist items' in, for smaller arms I'm guessing.

Does any one know when Britool changed to, or from, the red colour? Is the grey/blue older or newer or some special issue? Dads 100a box is just about finished de-rusting. No sign of red at all, rather the grey/blue. If it stays dry for the weekend I hope to finish the prep work and poss get a primer coat on it.

 

[Dave455]

Thanks for the welcome Bob. I was that first page that helped me know what this set was (originally at least). Been reviewing the kit a bit more since first post and there is less original than I thought. Some of it being 'service issue' with the 'Broad Arrow' stamp. I guessing as dad was an Armourer that much of what was in the set was that needed to fix the boom sticks he was sent to fix, in odd places. I also have his Armourer's 'bag' with the more 'specialist items' in, for smaller arms I'm guessing.

Does any one know when Britool changed to, or from, the red colour? Is the grey/blue older or newer or some special issue? Dads 100a box is just about finished de-rusting. No sign of red at all, rather the grey/blue. If it stays dry for the weekend I hope to finish the prep work and poss get a primer coat on it.

Britool supplied tools for military contracts in the grey boxes for many years, certainly long after they switched to red for commercial products. I don’t know if there was a date that they stopped, or if it was on a contract by contract basis. I don’t think I’ve seen any grey boxes with original tools dated into the 80’s, though I’ve certainly seen them into the 70’s.

The classic Britool boxes were painted in a brick red basecoat, then overpainted with a black “crackle” paint which contracted to give the distinctive “crackle” finish, which appears dark red from a distance. I assume the military boxes were just painted one colour, partly as an economy measure.

These grey boxes were of very high quality though, compared to modern packaging. I’m glad you are restoring the set. Hopefully you will get a paint of comparable colour and quality to the original.

Edit - It was suggested to me once, that the original paints used on the red boxes were enamel paint made by Trimite. This sounds likely, but if a comparable paint was used on the grey boxes, you won’t need primer!

 

[Bob H]

3 siblings. All late 60’s or early 70’s. The 1/2 inch one has had all my weight swinging off it. Robust is a good word.

 

[Bob H]

3 siblings. All late 60’s or early 70’s. The 1/2 inch one has had all my weight swinging off it. Robust is a good word.

I believe they are known in Britool terms as Breaker Bars, and our American cousins may call them Knuckle Bars, but to me they have always been Ryving Bars. Any more bids, gentlemen, please ?
And on another theme entirely, are we just a bunch of male tool fetishists on here, or are any of the fairer *** in our midst ?

 

[Dave455]

I believe they are known in Britool terms as Breaker Bars, and our American cousins may call them Knuckle Bars, but to me they have always been Ryving Bars. Any more bids, gentlemen, please ?
And on another theme entirely, are we just a bunch of male tool fetishists on here, or are any of the fairer *** in our midst ?

The Britool term for these was “Swivel Handle”.

The American term is “Breaker Bar”.

I suspect that the reason for the difference in terminology is that the tools were originally intended to be used slightly differently. In America, the tool was primarily intended to break a fastener loose, before switching to a ratchet, speed brace, or whatever.

In the U.K. these bars were originally a more of a multi purpose tool. You could use it to loosen a fastener, but then you could swivel it round, put a tommy bar through it, and wind the fastener off. This is why the original Britool handles have the hole in the handle.

The articulated joint would more correctly be referred to as a “swivel” rather than a “knuckle” as it swivels both ways from the straight position (think rifle sling swivel), wheras a knuckle only pivots one way (think of the joint in your finger)!

The term “riving” is used in green woodworking to refer to splitting a piece of wood lengthways. Wheras you might split a log in one hit, a longer bit would need “riving” by inserting a froe, twisting it sideways to enlarge the split, then using another froe or “riving bar” to tear it apart! I can well imagine early agricultural mechanics using their riving bars for anything that needed levering!

But hell, you can call your bar “Sharon” if you like…

 

[wornout4561]

Not sure if this allowed so here goes. I have two socket sets which I will not use again.

1. A Britool 1/2in drive master set,(A/F, Metric/Whitworth and 8 point 'square' sockets) , the set was bought in 1966, it is complete, except that 4 sockets have been replaced over the years with newer Britool. The box is intact without dents etc, the paint on the outside of the box is largely missing , inside the box the paint is as new. All the sockets etc have been oiled on a regular basis.

Second set is a 1967 Proto 3/4 drive A/F set with 22 sockets from 7/8 to 23/8 plus all the extensions and bars etc. Box is almost like new.

My question is worth is value of each set?

 

[Bob H]

BA spanner set. Small and perfect. Has anyone else a set like this one ?

Wow. If anyone feels rich, there is an OJ BA spanner set on flea bay now for £175. !

 

[Bob H]

Not sure if this allowed so here goes. I have two socket sets which I will not use again.

1. A Britool 1/2in drive master set,(A/F, Metric/Whitworth and 8 point 'square' sockets) , the set was bought in 1966, it is complete, except that 4 sockets have been replaced over the years with newer Britool. The box is intact without dents etc, the paint on the outside of the box is largely missing , inside the box the paint is as new. All the sockets etc have been oiled on a regular basis.

Second set is a 1967 Proto 3/4 drive A/F set with 22 sockets from 7/8 to 23/8 plus all the extensions and bars etc. Box is almost like new.

My question is worth is value of each set?

Best bet is to have a look on flea bay for similar sets. I’m surprised to hear of a set from 66 with metric in it. The master sets were Whit / AF / Square.
Gut reaction would be 1. Look for over £150, and 2. £50. But that’s only my guess.

 

[Dave455]

Best bet is to have a look on flea bay for similar sets. I’m surprised to hear of a set from 66 with metric in it. The master sets were Whit / AF / Square.
Gut reaction would be 1. Look for over £150, and 2. £50. But that’s only my guess.

The top of the range sets always included metric, even then!

Here’s mine, or rather my Dad’s!

It’s about the same vintage.

 

[Bob H]

The top of the range sets always included metric, even then!

Here’s mine, or rather my Dad’s!

It’s about the same vintage.

Thanks Dave, I’m happy to be corrected. That looks stunning. Mine is early ‘70’s, bought new by me. It came with AF only, and I bought MM sockets new as individual items the same day. I was a mechanic back then, so it saw daily use for The first few years. What are your views on pricing ?

 

[GDO]

Well, I've got the case all de-rusted and cleaned up. I've also been through all the sockets and 'tools' and far less are Britool than I first thought. Here are some pics: case, tool list insert and most of the Britools.

 

[GDO]

The "Sharon", (aka Swivel Handle, Breaker Bar)... E79 or 3079 has a cracked end, won't be monkeying on that any more!

 

[GDO]

Britool supplied tools for military contracts in the grey boxes for many years, certainly long after they switched to red for commercial products. I don’t know if there was a date that they stopped, or if it was on a contract by contract basis. I don’t think I’ve seen any grey boxes with original tools dated into the 80’s, though I’ve certainly seen them into the 70’s.

Thanks Dave455. Plenty have the Broad Arrow with date stamp. The oldest so far is 1951 on an EB609. And the Swivel Handle (E79) has "WAR FINISH" stamped on it. Others are from the 70s. Now that the case is clean I need to address the painting.

Edit - It was suggested to me once, that the original paints used on the red boxes were enamel paint made by Trimite. This sounds likely, but if a comparable paint was used on the grey boxes, you won’t need primer!

Again thank Dave455. "Trimite", well there's a www.trimite.com still going and their about page dates them in to the 40s. Just out of pure curiosity I'm going to ping them an email and ask, did they provide the paint for Britool and if so, what was it and can I get some? As for dads Army Green, I mulling over the Middle Bronze Green or the Dark.... think the middle is closest.

 

[Dave455]

Thanks Dave, I’m happy to be corrected. That looks stunning. Mine is early ‘70’s, bought new by me. It came with AF only, and I bought MM sockets new as individual items the same day. I was a mechanic back then, so it saw daily use for The first few years. What are your views on pricing ?

Yes, the Britool stuff from that era generally wears very well. Yours is slightly later than mine, so I suspect the slightly later style of Sliding T and the brighter chrome.

If you are able to post a picture I can give you my best guess, but prices seem to be all over the place.

 

[Dave455]

Thanks Dave455. Plenty have the Broad Arrow with date stamp. The oldest so far is 1951 on an EB609. And the Swivel Handle (E79) has "WAR FINISH" stamped on it. Others are from the 70s. Now that the case is clean I need to address the painting.


Again thank Dave455. "Trimite", well there's a www.trimite.com still going and their about page dates them in to the 40s. Just out of pure curiosity I'm going to ping them an email and ask, did they provide the paint for Britool and if so, what was it and can I get some? As for dads Army Green, I mulling over the Middle Bronze Green or the Dark.... think the middle is closest.

Yes, those dates are pretty much in the range that I have found.

Probably 10 years back I spoke to Trimite and asked them the same question. At the time they had some guy who had been working there for years who reckoned he knew the paint they supplied but it was no longer made. They did say they could make something similar, and match the colours, If I ordered enough…!

Since then I’ve been buying enamel paints for other projects from Paragon Paints. They offer many colours for old machines and equipment (most of which turn out to be British Standard colours anyway) and their paints seem to be really easy to apply. I re finished some Record planes a couple of years ago, and the paint seems to be an exact match and as durable as the original.

Maybe we should approach Paragon and suggest it?

I can find at least 4 different paint styles though. There’s the original “crackle” finish (cracked black over brick red), there’s a lighter red “crinkle” finish, a short lived hammered finish (which I thought wasn’t genuine, but is) and the brighter red of later boxes.

 

[humber2]

I find the dating of the socket and universal joint revealing.

Clearly the set dates from the days of King George and all items would read British Made which continued to around 1956 before Britool England stated Country of origin.

The 1951 socket knurling style may be the last year of that pattern.

 

[Bob H]

There is a H55 “Jack handle ?” On Facebook marketplace just now (UK) if anyone is in need ?
I have no 3/4”, so no bidding war with me !

 

[AustinChamp]

Yes, those dates are pretty much in the range that I have found.

Probably 10 years back I spoke to Trimite and asked them the same question. At the time they had some guy who had been working there for years who reckoned he knew the paint they supplied but it was no longer made. They did say they could make something similar, and match the colours, If I ordered enough…!

Since then I’ve been buying enamel paints for other projects from Paragon Paints. They offer many colours for old machines and equipment (most of which turn out to be British Standard colours anyway) and their paints seem to be really easy to apply. I re finished some Record planes a couple of years ago, and the paint seems to be an exact match and as durable as the original.

Maybe we should approach Paragon and suggest it?

I can find at least 4 different paint styles though. There’s the original “crackle” finish (cracked black over brick red), there’s a lighter red “crinkle” finish, a short lived hammered finish (which I thought wasn’t genuine, but is) and the brighter red of later boxes.

There is also a "crackle" finish of black over a mid grey , which predates the red /black , think this is pre war to some point in the 1940s , have a few boxes with this finish .

 

[GDO]

"Trimite", well there's a www.trimite.com still going and their about page dates them in to the 40s. Just out of pure curiosity I'm going to ping them an email and ask, did they provide the paint for Britool and if so, what was it and can I get some?

Well the Tech' Dept. at Trimite have come up trumps...

"Technical have advised that we are unable to help you and that it would be easier and quicker to get this matched at B&Q."

Moving on...

 

[Dave455]

Well the Tech' Dept. at Trimite have come up trumps...

"Technical have advised that we are unable to help you and that it would be easier and quicker to get this matched at B&Q."

Moving on...

Oh yes, B&Q will have no trouble matching crackle paint from the 1960’s, think I saw some there…!

What a bunch of useless f’ing tubes!

Maybe try Paragon?

 

[Bob H]

The Britool term for these was “Swivel Handle”.

The American term is “Breaker Bar”.

I suspect that the reason for the difference in terminology is that the tools were originally intended to be used slightly differently. In America, the tool was primarily intended to break a fastener loose, before switching to a ratchet, speed brace, or whatever.

In the U.K. these bars were originally a more of a multi purpose tool. You could use it to loosen a fastener, but then you could swivel it round, put a tommy bar through it, and wind the fastener off. This is why the original Britool handles have the hole in the handle.

The articulated joint would more correctly be referred to as a “swivel” rather than a “knuckle” as it swivels both ways from the straight position (think rifle sling swivel), wheras a knuckle only pivots one way (think of the joint in your finger)!

The term “riving” is used in green woodworking to refer to splitting a piece of wood lengthways. Wheras you might split a log in one hit, a longer bit would need “riving” by inserting a froe, twisting it sideways to enlarge the split, then using another froe or “riving bar” to tear it apart! I can well imagine early agricultural mechanics using their riving bars for anything that needed levering!

But hell, you can call your bar “Sharon” if you like…

Little Sharon, Sharron, and Big Shay-Ron all thank you !
I did not know about the woodworking “Riving”, interesting, but the one to which I refer is Ryving, with emphasis on the Y, as in Ryving about - definition would be roughly tearing about.

 

[Bob H]

I would value your views on Rachet Lubrication. Have had my E74/40T 1/2“ Ratchet since the early 70’s. When new, I disassembled and greased it. My A45 3/8” Ratchet was obtained second hand, also early 70’s, and was disassembled, cleaned and greased. I have just cleaned and greased them again, first time in 40+ years. How do you lube yours, and how often ? Mine only get used infrequently these days.
The other ratchet shown is a Cr-v E113848 I won in an on line competition. I am a traditionalist, and love my old tools. However, I have to say this ratchet is a revelation. It is great to use. It has fine teeth, so would probably not stand up to a lot of rough usage - but that is what the breaker bar is for !

 

[Farmer J.]

There are many and varied opinions on ratchet lubrication, so any comment usually invokes a storm of fierce debate. The important thing is to keep them clean, and not allow hardened gunk (like old dried out grease) to build up in the teeth as it prevents the pawl from fully engaging so it can only sit on the tips of the teeth then they break.. bad news.. and the ratchet slips.. and your knuckles suffer.
On fine tooth ratchets I use ATF gearbox fluid, or any light oil like gun oil or '3 in 1'. On coarse tooth ratchets a thicker lube will suffice.
Some people swear by the red engine assembly lube stuff.
I have heard of people who work hard in dirty environments keeping a open tin can of ATF oil and dumping the ratchet heads in it every night to soak. In the morning they lift the ratchet out and, wipe it, and it's nicely full of clean lube for the day! It's probably slightly messy, but quick and easy, and I bet they work smoothly. It wouldn't work on sealed head mechanisms though.

 

[oldpliers1]

I hope you guys don't mind me bumping this thread to post these Elliott-Lucas High-Tensile "ELECT" pliers. I was thrilled to find them at the flea market yesterday. There's really no more appropriate thread, and since James Neill acquired Britool in 1969, two years before they acquired Elliott-Lucas in 1971, they're sort of "in the family." These are almost certainly from the 1940's. I've seen them referred to as electrical pliers, but I don't think that does them enough justice. They look like sapper's pliers to me. US sapper's pliers have the same features, including the wire cutters, the vertical wire holder slot in the nose of the jaws, the screwdriver blade (hand-forged!), and the powder punch (also hand-forged!). And I have seen these with the MOD broad arrow marking on the flip side, which these don't seem to have. This is a serious, well-made tool.

Hi I love the Lucas Elliott tools I have a nice collection, that I will share, They we’re popular with the older generation of Electricians , especially the 10 pound migrants , As crescent had the best insulated Grips and market share they faded out of existence 40 years ago here in Australia. I am however after the white handle High voltage Lucas And Elliott pliers, they are highly sought after I have included a photo .regards

 

[Bob H]

There are many and varied opinions on ratchet lubrication, so any comment usually invokes a storm of fierce debate. The important thing is to keep them clean, and not allow hardened gunk (like old dried out grease) to build up in the teeth as it prevents the pawl from fully engaging so it can only sit on the tips of the teeth then they break.. bad news.. and the ratchet slips.. and your knuckles suffer.
On fine tooth ratchets I use ATF gearbox fluid, or any light oil like gun oil or '3 in 1'. On coarse tooth ratchets a thicker lube will suffice.
Some people swear by the red engine assembly lube stuff.
I have heard of people who work hard in dirty environments keeping a open tin can of ATF oil and dumping the ratchet heads in it every night to soak. In the morning they lift the ratchet out and, wipe it, and it's nicely full of clean lube for the day! It's probably slightly messy, but quick and easy, and I bet they work smoothly. It wouldn't work on sealed head mechanisms though.

Thanks for the reply Farmer J..
And for the politeness ! I expected a barrage of abuse, so your words were both sensible and well received.
The Castrol LM grease I just used is 80’s vintage, so slightly suspect anyway. I would not use it now on a car or motorbike wheel bearing, but it feels good between the fingers.
on another note, I bet the empty tin is worth a Bob or two now !

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Thanks for sharing, oldpliers1.

 

[Farmer J.]

Thanks for the reply Farmer J..
And for the politeness ! I expected a barrage of abuse, so your words were both sensible and well received.
on another note, I bet the empty tin is worth a Bob or two now !

You're welcome! The Britool guys are usually pretty 'steady' chaps.. That old moly grease is good on basic mechanisms and very smooth, I use it on steering joints and things that don't get taken apart often. We could probably sell those tins when they're empty for more than we paid when they were new and full. Will see if I can work out how to post pictures.

 

[Farmer J.]

 

[oldpliers1]

I hope you guys don't mind me bumping this thread to post these Elliott-Lucas High-Tensile "ELECT" pliers. I was thrilled to find them at the flea market yesterday. There's really no more appropriate thread, and since James Neill acquired Britool in 1969, two years before they acquired Elliott-Lucas in 1971, they're sort of "in the family." These are almost certainly from the 1940's. I've seen them referred to as electrical pliers, but I don't think that does them enough justice. They look like sapper's pliers to me. US sapper's pliers have the same features, including the wire cutters, the vertical wire holder slot in the nose of the jaws, the screwdriver blade (hand-forged!), and the powder punch (also hand-forged!). And I have seen these with the MOD broad arrow marking on the flip side, which these don't seem to have. This is a serious, well-made tool.

It’s interesting that they put elect on them as their is no insulation,and as a electrician they are a tool we do not use .
always nice to see Lucas Elliott. Thanks

 

[Dave455]

It’s interesting that they put elect on them as their is no insulation,and as a electrician they are a tool we do not use .
always nice to see Lucas Elliott. Thanks

The “Elect” designation didn’t designate that they were electricians tools, but rather their “top end” range of tools. They had superior finishing (some were plated) and were supplied boxed.

Those particular pliers that Lugz posted are “gas pliers” used in the gas industry, but useful elsewhere!

Elliot Lucas offered several different grip styles. Plain metal were most common, certainly on the earlier tools, but maroon dip coated, black soft rubber, and insulated were all options.

Even the electricians tools were not generally insulated. No domestic electrician works “live line” in the U.K. so there was no need in a world before RCD’s!

 

[Bob H]

Jealous ! It’s the one bit missing from mine which I really want. 1 day. I have a King **** one which is perfectly serviceable, but just not Britool !

Got One ! And the Turnscrew my set was missing. I think that is me now complete.

 

[oldpliers1]

The “Elect” designation didn’t designate that they were electricians tools, but rather their “top end” range of tools. They had superior finishing (some were plated) and were supplied boxed.

Those particular pliers that Lugz posted are “gas pliers” used in the gas industry, but useful elsewhere!

Elliot Lucas offered several different grip styles. Plain metal were most common, certainly on the earlier tools, but maroon dip coated, black soft rubber, and insulated were all options.

Even the electricians tools were not generally insulated. No domestic electrician works “live line” in the U.K. so there was no need in a world before RCD’s!

Thanks Dave that solves the elect marking , I just learnt something. I I’ll send you a photo I have to go take it . Speak to you latter today

 

[oldpliers1]

In reply to Mr Dave 455 , it’s quite Misleading when you look at the box in the photos I am putting up , but their is a 10000 volt tested marking on handles,like the Ahrems pliers.
here is part of my collection. The old pliers in picture have the elec marking on the head though not insulated . Regards A

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I suspect that the reason for the difference in terminology is that the tools were originally intended to be used slightly differently. In America, the tool was primarily intended to break a fastener loose, before switching to a ratchet, speed brace, or whatever.

In the U.K. these bars were originally a more of a multi purpose tool. You could use it to loosen a fastener, but then you could swivel it round, put a tommy bar through it, and wind the fastener off.

Hi Dave,

This isn't correct.

Being immersed in research and catalogs naturally leads to adopting period correct terminology in forums, which can raise eyebrows, elicit questions, (and even accusations of affectation!) when discussing antique and vintage tools with those who are, er, um, let's just say, less immersed. Nothing causes it more commonly than using the historically correct terms for a "breaker bar", a term I have come to be cantankerous about for the implicit limitation in its utility, as you have alluded to (are they only used to break loose stuck nuts and bolts? are they never used to turn off non-rusty, well-maintained nuts and bolts that have been tightened to their correct torque reading? are they never used to turn nuts and bolts on? etc), but one that is now hopelessly synonymous with the tool on this side of the pond.

But, it wasn't always that way. And it definitely wasn't originally that way between 1919 and, oh, say 1965.

As a realist, I realized this was going to be a losing, uphill battle without some 'splaining. So I have posted a version of my 'Notes' on the subject before.

It's instructive to first reflect that the tool didn't appear at once, but evolved from fixed Offset Handles, and Tee Handles, which were not exclusively used to bust loose stuck nuts and bolts, and that most of the earliest and later vintage examples included cross-drilled holes for a cross-bar, for spinning.

In fact, Blackhawk called it a "Hinged Offset Handle". Bonney and Plomb called it a "Hinge Handle". Cornwell, New Britain, and Williams preferred "Flex Handle." Sears, Roebuck & Co (Craftsman) used a hybrid variation ("Flex T Handle"), as did Herbrand ("Flexible Offset Handle") and SK ("Flex Head Handle"). There were some notably unique oddballs: Duro preferred "Swing Head Handle", Snap-on liked "Nut Spinner Handle", and Thorsen got cute with "Linkjoint Handle."

As far as I have been able to determine, the term "Breaker Bar" wasn't used here in the US - and that colloquially, in shops, etc, until the late 1960's. The earliest I can find it turning up as a technical term in any automotive technical literature is 1971 and that was not a catalog but a hot rod magazine, lending credence to the theory that it came off the street.

The most modern catalogs I have for the mfgr's I cited above are from the late 1950's but spot checks into Bonney, Herbrand, and Snap-on catalogs in the 1960's do not include the term "Breaker Bar." Consequently, I am not exactly sure when the term was adopted by American industry. But, I think we could consider Snap-on a pretty good yardstick of terminology evolution, and we happen to have an excellent resource of Snap-on catalogs at collectingsnapon.com. The last time Snap-on referred to this tool as a "Nut Spinner" in a catalog was 1973. The first time Snap-on referred to it as a "Breaker Bar" in a catalog was 1975.