It does. Thanks.
The ability to hold a nut/bolt does make a lot of sense, but I run into issues with the ratchet being backed into something more of an issue (usually a shallow socket + very short extension works for me to get the threads started <no ratchet helps>).
I guess that's what I get for buying 4cyl FWD and AWD cars.
The idea mentioned of using a rubber hose tucked inside a deep broached socket is a good idea IMHO. Reminds me of older style spark plug sockets, just using the rubber for a different purpose.
A listing of both shallow and deep broaches would be very nice if one could be compiled, as both would have their place.
Craftsman - Oddly enough I think broaches their sockets all the way or close to it.
Varied from what I saw a few weeks ago, particularly in the 1/4" DR. Very shallow broach on the deeps, particularly the smaller sizes.
Recently found some of my dad's old stuff (mix of Proto, SK, Snap-on, Williams, Wright, and even a BSW Brittool), and some of the deep 1/2"DR was broached very shallow (Proto in particular).
I tend to think the opposite. Broaching to a deeper depth is going to be more difficult and you have to make up for the loss of material with higher quality steel. Other than that it's personal preference.
My background would indicate that it's more expensive, even if the rest of the processing doesn't change, as it takes more time, and incurs additional wear per unit.
That said, although either might meet standards, they may not be equal in strength as others have already mentioned (i.e. deep vs. shallow from the same manufacturer with similar date codes <just in case they made changes to the metal between years>).
But I've never broken any of the older 3/8DR Craftsman's I own, so I'm not all that worried about being strong enough to break one either way. Might be possible if I use a cheater bar, but I try not to do this (have a couple of times when nothing else would break it free). Only thing I ever broke were my fingers.