To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Broken Tap in aluminum

sparkness

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2013
Messages
131
Location
Long Island, NY
I was power taping a part 1/4-20 tap, did not clear the chips as this is a deep hole, and a hand style tap - broke it in the part, any recomendations using alum and sulfuric acid for removal?
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

rancherbill

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
5,335
Location
Foothills County, Alberta, Canada
Last edited:

shawhite

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Messages
1,519
Must have been one dull or cheap tap. I’ve had moderate luck with the Walton like tools. Where you power taping with a hand drill/impact?
 

PCustoms

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
23,010
Location
VT
I've broken them out with a punch before.

Not sure I'd want to mess with acid or alum?
 

neophyte

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
9,703
Location
Pennsylvannia
Must have been one dull or cheap tap. I’ve had moderate luck with the Walton like tools. Where you power taping with a hand drill/impact?
Aluminum can vary from very soft, to hard and strong as hell, depending on the alloy, and whether the alloy was heat treated and hardened.
Also,
Aluminum is known for “galling” issues, which only get worse the more the tool is used once the molecular bonding happens.
This is one of the reasons titanium nitrate, and certain other coatings are recommended for tooling when working aluminum.
The coatings help prevent galling.
Kerosene is also the “cheap” recommended tool lubricant for working aluminum.
 

DIYNY

Active member
Joined
Jun 25, 2022
Messages
31
i'd try to stick needle nose pliers into gaps. if that doesn't work then comes out dremel with a carbide bit.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

dutchgray

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2014
Messages
6,467
Location
Dorset. England.
If the part can be put in a milling machine I will drill the tap out with a centre cutting carbide end mill, use a fairly well used one as it will probably not survive, the usually shatter when the last bit of the tap comes loose.
This is if the easy hand removal methods don't budge it.
Never tried any of the chemical tap dissolving methods.
 

F-22

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2022
Messages
1,830
1673298185999.pngSolid carbide left hand drill. This is my go to when all else fails.
Can this be used with a hand drill? Solid carbide drills are very expensive and I've only ever used one with a milling machine (but they come with normal spiral flutes, the straight one must be for very brittle materials?).

If I remember right, a ~10mm solid carbide drill bit costs 100€+, I doubt I'd ever strap it into a hand drill cause it's way more brittle than a HSS drill bit...
 

PCustoms

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
23,010
Location
VT
Can this be used with a hand drill? Solid carbide drills are very expensive and I've only ever used one with a milling machine (but they come with normal spiral flutes, the straight one must be for very brittle materials?).

No.

Carbide drills are too brittle and a hand drill too wobbly. You'll shatter the bit very quickly.
 

neophyte

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
9,703
Location
Pennsylvannia
Can this be used with a hand drill? Solid carbide drills are very expensive and I've only ever used one with a milling machine (but they come with normal spiral flutes, the straight one must be for very brittle materials?).

If I remember right, a ~10mm solid carbide drill bit costs 100€+, I doubt I'd ever strap it into a hand drill cause it's way more brittle than a HSS drill bit...
That type of drill bit is usually made for drilling hardened steel plate, such as that used for armoring vehicles.
Those bits should only be used in a drill press, and for drilling solidly placed materials.
Also, those bits tend to be expensive.
 

dnschmidt

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
7,279
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I'd try heat first. Aluminum has a much higher thermal expansion coefficient than tool steel. Heat up the aluminum and see if that makes a difference.
 
OP
S

sparkness

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2013
Messages
131
Location
Long Island, NY
OK here is what I did, I put the aluminum drum in a glass jar of water, 10% battery acid, 4 oz of Alum(aluminum potassium sulfate), heated for 6 hours - completely dissolved the tap, the drum will get cleaned up back on the lathe.
 

Attachments

  • drum broken tap.jpg
    drum broken tap.jpg
    705.2 KB · Views: 50
  • drum broken tapin solution.jpg
    drum broken tapin solution.jpg
    646.7 KB · Views: 50
  • drum broken tap bubling.jpg
    drum broken tap bubling.jpg
    696.2 KB · Views: 50
  • drum broken tap complete.jpg
    drum broken tap complete.jpg
    784.5 KB · Views: 50
  • drum broken tap remaining.jpg
    drum broken tap remaining.jpg
    443.4 KB · Views: 44
  • Craftsman drive roller 3.jpg
    Craftsman drive roller 3.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 7
Last edited:
OP
S

sparkness

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2013
Messages
131
Location
Long Island, NY
not so much an experiment, I did not want to remake the part and buy new material, I was too aggressive with the tap in deep cut - duh! my cost was $7.00 for the Alum, $6.00 for the glass jar, I had all other materials. the **** buildup on the aluminum is the iron from the dissolved tap.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom