OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Yes. That's an old thread that I just bumped a few days ago.
I've heard good things about the Truck Avenger, but Q-jet should be a lot more budget friendly.
Build Thread - 69 Bronco
- Thread starter bulletpruf
- Start date
I've heard good things about the Truck Avenger, but Q-jet should be a lot more budget friendly.
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Good news today! Hooked up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and started her up - oil pressure was right at 55 psi cold while idling. I didn't wait until it warmed up; 55 psi was good enough for me. Had it been terrible, I would have yanked the engine for a rebuild.
After oil pressure test, I started disassembly so I could change the busted timing cover. Was fairly easy, but will have to fix some of the hack work done by a PO. Also will have to deal with a long bolt (goes thru water pump and timing cover and threads into the block) that has a broken off head. Will use Kroil and heat; that usually works for me.
I'll pull the balancer tomorrow, get the timing cover off, and then reassemble with the cover I got from another 1969 Bronco 302. Also swapping in a Cloyes double roller timing chain (Ford used nylon cam gears; that's a breakdown waiting to happen) and a FlowKooler aluminum water pump.
I'll take this opportunity to install some new parts - battery tray, radiator hoses, thermostat, and a few used items from my Bronco parts stash - original fan (has a fiberglass one on it now), fan shroud (currently MIA), radiator (one in it now looks pretty rough), fan belt, alternator bracket (one on there is hacked), and correct crank pulley (currently has a 4 row crank pulley; should only have one row).
After oil pressure test, I started disassembly so I could change the busted timing cover. Was fairly easy, but will have to fix some of the hack work done by a PO. Also will have to deal with a long bolt (goes thru water pump and timing cover and threads into the block) that has a broken off head. Will use Kroil and heat; that usually works for me.
I'll pull the balancer tomorrow, get the timing cover off, and then reassemble with the cover I got from another 1969 Bronco 302. Also swapping in a Cloyes double roller timing chain (Ford used nylon cam gears; that's a breakdown waiting to happen) and a FlowKooler aluminum water pump.
I'll take this opportunity to install some new parts - battery tray, radiator hoses, thermostat, and a few used items from my Bronco parts stash - original fan (has a fiberglass one on it now), fan shroud (currently MIA), radiator (one in it now looks pretty rough), fan belt, alternator bracket (one on there is hacked), and correct crank pulley (currently has a 4 row crank pulley; should only have one row).
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
quit teasing me with that kroil , , Around here 10oz cans are maximum allowed. LOL
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
As usual, removing an old rusty bolt took a lot longer than expected...
As you can see in the picture, after the water pump was removed, I had a long bolt that didn't come out. This was one of the bolts that goes through the water pump, through the timing cover, and into the block. The PO must have broken the head off decades ago and never fixed it.
I hit it with some Kroil and some heat in hopes that I could turn it with some vise grips, but I didn't have any luck.
I also couldn't get the timing cover off because the bolt and timing cover were so corroded they were fused together.
I tried small taps with a small hammer and gradually worked my way up to a larger one in an attempt to shock them free. No luck.
I eventually went full Neanderthal on it and just beat the timing cover to pieces with a BFH. That felt good.
In doing so, I managed to break the bolt off where it was almost flush with the block.
I managed to get vise grips on the end, but it wasn't budging.
Then I tried a chisel -- catching the top of the bolt and trying to turn it, not cut it off. Nope.
Then I took a file and filed notch into the end of bolt shank for a regular screwdriver to grab. Then I tried an impact screwdriver, but I couldn't get much of a swing in. No joy.
At this point, I was about to call it good enough and just slop some extra RTV in that slot when I put it back together but I still had one more option.
I cleaned up the bolt head with a wire brush and a sander, hit it with some acetone and then found a large washer that fit the head of the bolt. I took my trusty MIG and welded the washer to the head of the bolt.
From there, I booger welded a nut to the washer, and used a wrench to try to loosen it. It turned!!! HOORAY!!! And then it snapped off. fook.
There was still just barely enough bolt left to try welding again, and this time I zapped it good! And it worked this time!
Just another frolic and detour in getting this heap back on the road...
As you can see in the picture, after the water pump was removed, I had a long bolt that didn't come out. This was one of the bolts that goes through the water pump, through the timing cover, and into the block. The PO must have broken the head off decades ago and never fixed it.
I hit it with some Kroil and some heat in hopes that I could turn it with some vise grips, but I didn't have any luck.
I also couldn't get the timing cover off because the bolt and timing cover were so corroded they were fused together.
I tried small taps with a small hammer and gradually worked my way up to a larger one in an attempt to shock them free. No luck.
I eventually went full Neanderthal on it and just beat the timing cover to pieces with a BFH. That felt good.
In doing so, I managed to break the bolt off where it was almost flush with the block.
I managed to get vise grips on the end, but it wasn't budging.
Then I tried a chisel -- catching the top of the bolt and trying to turn it, not cut it off. Nope.
Then I took a file and filed notch into the end of bolt shank for a regular screwdriver to grab. Then I tried an impact screwdriver, but I couldn't get much of a swing in. No joy.
At this point, I was about to call it good enough and just slop some extra RTV in that slot when I put it back together but I still had one more option.
I cleaned up the bolt head with a wire brush and a sander, hit it with some acetone and then found a large washer that fit the head of the bolt. I took my trusty MIG and welded the washer to the head of the bolt.
From there, I booger welded a nut to the washer, and used a wrench to try to loosen it. It turned!!! HOORAY!!! And then it snapped off. fook.
There was still just barely enough bolt left to try welding again, and this time I zapped it good! And it worked this time!
Just another frolic and detour in getting this heap back on the road...
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OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Adding a video to show the surprise that was waiting for me in the main fuel tank. Too bad, because it was really pristine inside except for the bottom.
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Fun Stuff! I was able to get the '66 NCrew inside shop today. WOrking outside at 100+ deg not much fun.
I'm watching your build, love the vehicle. Hoping that I can do one truck before I'm too old. Have an "85 Bronco II, but not really what I want to do, I have a plan for mid '70ies Dodge, so looking for a nice one.As usual, removing an old rusty bolt took a lot longer than expected...
As you can see in the picture, after the water pump was removed, I had a long bolt that didn't come out. This was one of the bolts that goes through the water pump, through the timing cover, and into the block. The PO must have broken the head off decades ago and never fixed it.
I hit it with some Kroil and some heat in hopes that I could turn it with some vise grips, but I didn't have any luck.
I also couldn't get the timing cover off because the bolt and timing cover were so corroded they were fused together.
I tried small taps with a small hammer and gradually worked my way up to a larger one in an attempt to shock them free. No luck.
I eventually went full Neanderthal on it and just beat the timing cover to pieces with a BFH. That felt good.
In doing so, I managed to break the bolt off where it was almost flush with the block.
I managed to get vise grips on the end, but it wasn't budging.
Then I tried a chisel -- catching the top of the bolt and trying to turn it, not cut it off. Nope.
Then I took a file and filed notch into the end of bolt shank for a regular screwdriver to grab. Then I tried an impact screwdriver, but I couldn't get much of a swing in. No joy.
At this point, I was about to call it good enough and just slop some extra RTV in that slot when I put it back together but I still had one more option.
I cleaned up the bolt head with a wire brush and a sander, hit it with some acetone and then found a large washer that fit the head of the bolt. I took my trusty MIG and welded the washer to the head of the bolt.
From there, I booger welded a nut to the washer, and used a wrench to try to loosen it. It turned!!! HOORAY!!! And then it snapped off. fook.
There was still just barely enough bolt left to try welding again, and this time I zapped it good! And it worked this time!
Just another frolic and detour in getting this heap back on the road...
Nice job on the stud removal.
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Thanks, I'm having fun with it. Was out of town for a few days, so I need to get back after it. Plan to finish fuel and cooling system and then start on the brakes/suspension. Will have family in town this weekend have two chainsaws on the bench too, so it will be a bit here and there.
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Broncos came with vacuum wipers until sometime in 1969. Mine has them. The wipers get vacuum from the fuel pump, which does double duty pumping fuel and pumping air.
The original fuel pumps were Carter, but AC made replacement pumps as well. Fortunately, these pumps are rebuildable and a company called Then and Now makes kits for both. For the AC kit you have to call them; it's not on their website. https://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/
Anyway, a while back I had sourced a few AC pumps, one which came with a kit from Then and Now. I used the kit to rebuild one of the pumps. Looks good and it's installed. I'll worry about vacuum wipers later.
The original fuel pumps were Carter, but AC made replacement pumps as well. Fortunately, these pumps are rebuildable and a company called Then and Now makes kits for both. For the AC kit you have to call them; it's not on their website. https://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/
Anyway, a while back I had sourced a few AC pumps, one which came with a kit from Then and Now. I used the kit to rebuild one of the pumps. Looks good and it's installed. I'll worry about vacuum wipers later.
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Offcenter12
Well-known member
Good work on getting the broken bolt out! Amazing how much time can be involved in one little part, but always worth it in the end. You'd have been awake at 2:30 in the morning thinking about that RTV. 
John
John
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Good work on getting the broken bolt out! Amazing how much time can be involved in one little part, but always worth it in the end. You'd have been awake at 2:30 in the morning thinking about that RTV.
John
Yeah, that's my problem with these older cars. I want to fix everything the right way, and that takes me down rabbit holes on occasion.
bradpac
Well-known member
That is why I hardly ever finish a project. My standards don't change, but the time and money seems to have a way of going away rather quickly.
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Time for an update...
Got the tank selector valve installed and plumbed. This is the aftermarket valve, and it's just not a good fit because of how the fittings are configured. I ended up finding a good used one locally (maybe from a '73 Bronco?) that's similar to my original one. I'll either use it, or just parts from it to rebuild my original one.
Got the radiator installed and then managed to snap off two bolts for the fan shroud mount. Par for the course for old rusty stuff. So I pulled it back out, drilled out the bolts, then tapped to the next larger size. Then I noticed the fan had some interference issues with the fan shroud, so that took some tweaking... As usual, what should have been a 5 minute job ended up taking well over an hour.
When it was all back together, it wouldn't start. Realized the rebuilt fuel pump wasn't pumping, so I swapped it out with the generic parts store pump that was on the truck when I got it. Truck is running again. I'll have to disassemble the original pump and see if I can figure out went wrong.
Anyway, I got it all back together, and running. No interference issues with the fan. Fuel pump is pumping fine, no fuel leaks, tank selector valve is working, freshly painted correct crank and water pump pulleys are good to go with perfect alignment and no squeaking, etc.
I did notice some coolant on the passenger side floor after it ran a bit, so my heater core has a leak. That's not surprising at all, so I yanked the heater hoses, put some rubber caps on the core inlet/outlet, and connected a single hose from the water pump to the intake.
Once that issue was addressed, I figured I'd work on tuning it a bit. Seems to like about 12* timing at idle, but before I could get timing and mixture really dialed in with a vacuum gauge, Murphy struck again...
I'm getting a LOT of smoke coming off the driver's side of the motor once it warms up. It's coming from behind the exhaust manifold, and it's thick white smoke. What's weird is that it starts all at once; it's not there until it warms up a bit and then it comes on like gangbusters. Checked oil; not milky at all. Not leaking oil from the valve cover. No evidence of oil in the coolant, either. I also did a compression test on all the cylinders in that bank and none were changed from the original test.
Bottom line - it's either a head gasket or a freeze plug has a pinhole leak spraying on the exhaust manifold. Either way, the motor is coming out, and if I'm going that far, I'm going to tear it down and rebuild it. Should have done this a while back, given what I've had to do with the engine still installed, but live and learn, I guess.
I'm a bit torn on the way ahead. I have two Broncos. One that I'll keep and one that I'll sell. The keeper is going to get a nicely built 347 with good heads (AFR aluminum with 170cc intake runners and 63cc chambers, I think), the NP-435 4 speed, and the Dana 44 front diff. The one I'm going to sell will get a mild 302 (rebuilt, .030, small cam, good intake, carb, etc), Dana 30 up front, and probably the C4 automatic.
Had planned to sell this Bronco and keep the '68, but may end up flip-flopping because this one is definitely more solid.
Got the tank selector valve installed and plumbed. This is the aftermarket valve, and it's just not a good fit because of how the fittings are configured. I ended up finding a good used one locally (maybe from a '73 Bronco?) that's similar to my original one. I'll either use it, or just parts from it to rebuild my original one.
Got the radiator installed and then managed to snap off two bolts for the fan shroud mount. Par for the course for old rusty stuff. So I pulled it back out, drilled out the bolts, then tapped to the next larger size. Then I noticed the fan had some interference issues with the fan shroud, so that took some tweaking... As usual, what should have been a 5 minute job ended up taking well over an hour.
When it was all back together, it wouldn't start. Realized the rebuilt fuel pump wasn't pumping, so I swapped it out with the generic parts store pump that was on the truck when I got it. Truck is running again. I'll have to disassemble the original pump and see if I can figure out went wrong.
Anyway, I got it all back together, and running. No interference issues with the fan. Fuel pump is pumping fine, no fuel leaks, tank selector valve is working, freshly painted correct crank and water pump pulleys are good to go with perfect alignment and no squeaking, etc.
I did notice some coolant on the passenger side floor after it ran a bit, so my heater core has a leak. That's not surprising at all, so I yanked the heater hoses, put some rubber caps on the core inlet/outlet, and connected a single hose from the water pump to the intake.
Once that issue was addressed, I figured I'd work on tuning it a bit. Seems to like about 12* timing at idle, but before I could get timing and mixture really dialed in with a vacuum gauge, Murphy struck again...
I'm getting a LOT of smoke coming off the driver's side of the motor once it warms up. It's coming from behind the exhaust manifold, and it's thick white smoke. What's weird is that it starts all at once; it's not there until it warms up a bit and then it comes on like gangbusters. Checked oil; not milky at all. Not leaking oil from the valve cover. No evidence of oil in the coolant, either. I also did a compression test on all the cylinders in that bank and none were changed from the original test.
Bottom line - it's either a head gasket or a freeze plug has a pinhole leak spraying on the exhaust manifold. Either way, the motor is coming out, and if I'm going that far, I'm going to tear it down and rebuild it. Should have done this a while back, given what I've had to do with the engine still installed, but live and learn, I guess.
I'm a bit torn on the way ahead. I have two Broncos. One that I'll keep and one that I'll sell. The keeper is going to get a nicely built 347 with good heads (AFR aluminum with 170cc intake runners and 63cc chambers, I think), the NP-435 4 speed, and the Dana 44 front diff. The one I'm going to sell will get a mild 302 (rebuilt, .030, small cam, good intake, carb, etc), Dana 30 up front, and probably the C4 automatic.
Had planned to sell this Bronco and keep the '68, but may end up flip-flopping because this one is definitely more solid.
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Keep the more solid one! Best parts to the keeper! With the crazy early bronco prices currently as long as it runs n drives will bring big $$ IMO doing a full rebuild will not bring any more $ than you spend and time will be lost. Seems like most either want a nice turn key bronco or one to build their own way. A fresh 289/302 build for one to sell will not gain you the $ or valuable time spent as I know you on the might as well's . . Not to mention the machine shop time. Gotta be at least a 5k job to do full rebuild and replace what's needed
Edit add: Even if you put the better running engine in the one you are selling better off than rebuild. Do it in a weekend vs months of waiting and spending 100's of hours doing might as wells
Edit add: Even if you put the better running engine in the one you are selling better off than rebuild. Do it in a weekend vs months of waiting and spending 100's of hours doing might as wells
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Keeping the more solid one makes more sense, but there are a few reasons to sell it first. One is related to how I got the '68 keeper (gifted to me by my brother in law) and the other consideration is which one is closer to being ready to sell. Having said that, I suspect that I would always regret it if I sold the more solid one, so it's still up in the air at this point.
On the 302 stock rebuild, I think I can do it well under $5k. At the machine shop, I'd like to turn the crank if needed, remove old pistons and press on new ones, bore .030, skim cut on the heads, and probably zero deck the block. I have a cam bearing installation tool, but I'd probably get them to install cam bearings, too, along with magnafluxing crank, heads, and block. I'm thinking that'll be between $500-$1000 for shop time, which is fine. What I'm more worried about is how long it will take, as you mention above.
On the heads, I have two sets of small chamber (60- 62cc) stock C8 and/or C9 302 heads. Hopefully one pair has good valve guides and good seats. If so, I'll disassemble, get the machine shop to take .010 or so off just to true them, then I'll do a bit of minor porting, and reassemble, perhaps with a shimmed valvesprings if pressure is weak. If the heads need guides or seats, they'll get sold or recycled and I'll go with GT40 heads, which flow fairly well, are relatively inexpensive, and are a bolt-on swap. The GT40 have larger chambers (65 cc, I think), so I'll just have to order pistons with a small dome to get compression up to 9.5:1 or so. FYI - GT40P heads have smaller chambers, but they require special headers, so the GT40 heads make more sense.
Add a Performer dual plane intake, decent but small 4bbl carb, mild hydraulic flat tappet, Duraspark dizzy or just add a Pertronix to my stock single point, main and rod bearings, gasket kit, and I'm well under budget. I already have the headers, already have good timing chain and gears, have a Q-Jet and 600 cfm Holley on the shelf, etc.
Thanks for the input.
Scott
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cpttuna
Well-known member
nice find. good luck. lots of info on the web to help you. had a 78 for 37 years
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Giving it more thought and I'm leaning towards keeping the '69 and selling the '68. That will change the plan a bit. That means the '69 gets a well-built 347, I swap in the NP435 transmission (4 speed, granny low, bolt-in swap), swap in the Dana 44 front diff (currently has weaker Dana 30), etc. I'll add a soft top as well. I also don't need to rush to finish it and sell it before I move next month.
The '68 will stay with a Dana 30, C4 auto, and it will get the mild 302, and will retain the hard top and hard doors.
The '68 will stay with a Dana 30, C4 auto, and it will get the mild 302, and will retain the hard top and hard doors.
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Haven't made much progress for the past week or two. Had to go to D.C. area to sign in and in-process for my next job and also had to find a place to live. I've been on leave since I returned almost a week ago, but I've had a backlog of honey-do's to take care of and have been liquidating some of my vintage chainsaw collection, too.
Anyway, today while cruising FB Marketplace I saw an ad for some Jeep wheels and tires - 32 x 11.50 x 15. Vintage Jeep wheels have the same bolt pattern - 5 on 5.5 - as vintage Broncos, and I've been wanting to upgrade the wheels and tires, so I picked them up for $200. I think the wheels may be 78-79 Bronco 15 x 8, but haven't verified. Tires look a lot like OG Gumbo Mudders, but they're radials. Bronco looks 100% better with these mounted!!!
Still sits a bit high in the back, but I'll address that soon enough.
Anyway, today while cruising FB Marketplace I saw an ad for some Jeep wheels and tires - 32 x 11.50 x 15. Vintage Jeep wheels have the same bolt pattern - 5 on 5.5 - as vintage Broncos, and I've been wanting to upgrade the wheels and tires, so I picked them up for $200. I think the wheels may be 78-79 Bronco 15 x 8, but haven't verified. Tires look a lot like OG Gumbo Mudders, but they're radials. Bronco looks 100% better with these mounted!!!
Still sits a bit high in the back, but I'll address that soon enough.
Attachments
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
More progress...and some interesting half-*** repairs made by the PO...
First, I managed to pull the driver's side exhaust manifold without breaking of a bolt or a stud. I'm going to chalk that up to a liberal soaking in Kroil.
Anyway, I didn't see an obvious source the the leak, but I still need to clean the area up a bit and do some more looking. I did see something interesting, however -- a bolt that really looked out of place on the side off the block below #8 cylinder. It looks out of place because it's not supposed to be there, of course. This is where the engine coolant drain plug goes, and it's a plug, not a bolt. And it should have NPT threads, too.
So I'm guessing the leak is from coolant spewing out past the boogered up threads and onto the exhaust manifold once it gets hot enough to build up some pressure in the cooling system.
The third picture is another 69 Bronco 302 that I have sitting on an engine stand in the garage. That's what the plug is supposed to look like...
I need to remove the bolt and investigate further, but this seems like it might be the problem.
First, I managed to pull the driver's side exhaust manifold without breaking of a bolt or a stud. I'm going to chalk that up to a liberal soaking in Kroil.
Anyway, I didn't see an obvious source the the leak, but I still need to clean the area up a bit and do some more looking. I did see something interesting, however -- a bolt that really looked out of place on the side off the block below #8 cylinder. It looks out of place because it's not supposed to be there, of course. This is where the engine coolant drain plug goes, and it's a plug, not a bolt. And it should have NPT threads, too.
So I'm guessing the leak is from coolant spewing out past the boogered up threads and onto the exhaust manifold once it gets hot enough to build up some pressure in the cooling system.
The third picture is another 69 Bronco 302 that I have sitting on an engine stand in the garage. That's what the plug is supposed to look like...
I need to remove the bolt and investigate further, but this seems like it might be the problem.
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OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
The jackassery continues on the suspension, of course.
As you can see in the picture, the PO used some metal straps to keep his homegrown "add a leaf" spring kit together. One of the added leaves was something that someone had cut using a torch; no telling what it came from. The u-bolts attaching the springs to the diff also had some redneck engineering going on.
In addition, the PO used shocks with helper coils front and rear. These are actually load bearing to a degree; the truck dropped a bit when they were removed.
There was some good news on the leaf springs, however. I was fully prepared to break out the cutoff wheel and sawzall in order to get the leaf springs off; in my experience, the bolt usually rusts to the sleeve that fits inside of the rubber bushings in the spring eyes. Not the case here! All came out without any problem, much to my surprise. They got doused with a liberal dose of Kroil, so that didn't hurt.
Anyway, now that the rear springs are out, they'll get replaced with some used OEM springs that I have stashed in the garage.
As you can see in the picture, the PO used some metal straps to keep his homegrown "add a leaf" spring kit together. One of the added leaves was something that someone had cut using a torch; no telling what it came from. The u-bolts attaching the springs to the diff also had some redneck engineering going on.
In addition, the PO used shocks with helper coils front and rear. These are actually load bearing to a degree; the truck dropped a bit when they were removed.
There was some good news on the leaf springs, however. I was fully prepared to break out the cutoff wheel and sawzall in order to get the leaf springs off; in my experience, the bolt usually rusts to the sleeve that fits inside of the rubber bushings in the spring eyes. Not the case here! All came out without any problem, much to my surprise. They got doused with a liberal dose of Kroil, so that didn't hurt.
Anyway, now that the rear springs are out, they'll get replaced with some used OEM springs that I have stashed in the garage.
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Seagoon
Well-known member
It always impresses me when people go to such lengths to do it wrong
bradpac
Well-known member
This is why whenever I buy an old vehicle, if the buyer starts listing off thing they've done to it I usually start dropping my price. It's amazing the amount of effort some people put into saving a couple of $.
I'm glad you were able to figure out the smoke issue on your motor though, hopefully it won't be too big of deal to correct and will save you some work in the long run.
I'm glad you were able to figure out the smoke issue on your motor though, hopefully it won't be too big of deal to correct and will save you some work in the long run.
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
It's as if the PO didn't have access to an auto parts store, so he just used whatever was available.
I removed the bolt from the block today. Definitely jammed in there without regard to thread pitch, and wasn't threaded in very deep, either. I managed to get the correct plug threaded in, and used plenty of sealant, so hopefully it's fixed. Time will tell.
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
And for today's episode of "Sins of the Prior Owner," we have a long nail masquerading as a cotter pin. Nice.
And for those who don't worry whether their rear end is still venting (insert fart joke here), you can see from the attached pictures that if your vent is plugged, your rear will vent itself in a less convenient manner -- out of the pinion seal or an axle seal -- leaving one heck of a mess to clean up on down the road.
Also have some hogged out (back home we would say, "that's wallered out") mounting holes on the brackets where the front of the leaf spring mounts. My guess is that the PO removed the springs (or at least the bolts) at some point and didn't torque to spec when he reassembled, allowing the bolt to walk a bit. To fix it, I think I'm going to have to weld a small patch of the appropriate thickness of metal in there. Either that, or torque to spec and drive it as-is for now.
And for those who don't worry whether their rear end is still venting (insert fart joke here), you can see from the attached pictures that if your vent is plugged, your rear will vent itself in a less convenient manner -- out of the pinion seal or an axle seal -- leaving one heck of a mess to clean up on down the road.
Also have some hogged out (back home we would say, "that's wallered out") mounting holes on the brackets where the front of the leaf spring mounts. My guess is that the PO removed the springs (or at least the bolts) at some point and didn't torque to spec when he reassembled, allowing the bolt to walk a bit. To fix it, I think I'm going to have to weld a small patch of the appropriate thickness of metal in there. Either that, or torque to spec and drive it as-is for now.
Attachments
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Picture is of the bolt that came out of the block versus the plug that was supposed to be there. As you can see, the threads are definitely different. I'm a bit surprised that the PO didn't completely strip the threads, but I was able to thread the plug in without too much trouble.
Attachments
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
A few better pics and more details on the jury rigged rear springs.
These started life as stock springs with 5 leaves (or 4 regular leaves + the overload leaf). The PO added two springs to each side, for a total of 7 leaves. He also had load bearing coil assisted shocks front and rear.
It will be interesting to see what the ride height will be after I finish installing the stock springs.
These started life as stock springs with 5 leaves (or 4 regular leaves + the overload leaf). The PO added two springs to each side, for a total of 7 leaves. He also had load bearing coil assisted shocks front and rear.
It will be interesting to see what the ride height will be after I finish installing the stock springs.
Attachments
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
And for yet another installment of interesting repairs, we have the passenger side axle that came out of the 9" rear diff. Looks normal, you say? Take a closer look!
It looks like it snapped at some point and was welded back together. However, it gets better -- it looks like whoever did the repair had to lengthen the axle a bit in the weld area. In order to compensate for the added length, they cut the splined end off the axle, maybe trimming about 1/4"? If you compare the length of the splines between the two axles you'll see what I'm referring to.
Again, it's as if the PO didn't have access to a dealership or auto parts store. Sure seems like it would be a lot easier to buy a new axle, but maybe he had a welding and/or machine shop or had a buddy that did?
It looks like it snapped at some point and was welded back together. However, it gets better -- it looks like whoever did the repair had to lengthen the axle a bit in the weld area. In order to compensate for the added length, they cut the splined end off the axle, maybe trimming about 1/4"? If you compare the length of the splines between the two axles you'll see what I'm referring to.
Again, it's as if the PO didn't have access to a dealership or auto parts store. Sure seems like it would be a lot easier to buy a new axle, but maybe he had a welding and/or machine shop or had a buddy that did?
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bulletpruf
Well-known member
The title of today's post is, "This is Why I Drink."
At this point, I have had a margarita or two, but my left hand still aches from being smacked with a big freaking hammer, one finger is still raw from getting chewed up by the wire wheel on the bench grinder, ears still ringing from all the pounding with BFH's, eyes still watery from sandblasting grit that hasn't worked its way out yet, and leg is raw in a spot from getting hit with the wire wheel on the portable drill, and hand lost a few layers of skin in a spot from getting in the way of the pressure washer stream at full boost...
Much of this can be attributed to my task from the past two days -- removing the 52 year old bushings from the leaf springs. It starts off easy enough by drilling about a dozen holes in the rubber that surrounds the inner sleeve. Then I flip the spring over and drill from the other side. From there, I'll take a pick of some sort and try to dig out some of the rubber. Next up is hitting it with my 2d favorite liquid (right after margaritas) - Kroil. And then I take a brass punch, set it on the inner sleeve, and start pounding away with a large ball peen. It's usually freed after a few minutes, sometimes takes some additional drilling and picking.
Then what's left of the rubber usually slides out easily.
And then the fun begins...
There's an outer sleeve that fits just inside the eye of the spring. It's fairly soft metal, which is somewhat helpful. However, since it's quite thin, there's not a lot of room to insert something to press or drive it out. What worked fairly well for me -- use a sawzall to cut almost completely through the sleeve without touching the harder metal of the spring eye. I took it very slow, stopping very few seconds to check.
Then take a chisel use it to cut through the sleeve completely. From there, using chisels, I try to collapse the sleeve so there's no tension holding the sleeve to the spring eye. Once that's done, I drive the sleeve out with a the brass punch. Once that's done, repeat 5 more times...
I had two that were quite reluctant, and that took a LONG time.
At this point, I have had a margarita or two, but my left hand still aches from being smacked with a big freaking hammer, one finger is still raw from getting chewed up by the wire wheel on the bench grinder, ears still ringing from all the pounding with BFH's, eyes still watery from sandblasting grit that hasn't worked its way out yet, and leg is raw in a spot from getting hit with the wire wheel on the portable drill, and hand lost a few layers of skin in a spot from getting in the way of the pressure washer stream at full boost...
Much of this can be attributed to my task from the past two days -- removing the 52 year old bushings from the leaf springs. It starts off easy enough by drilling about a dozen holes in the rubber that surrounds the inner sleeve. Then I flip the spring over and drill from the other side. From there, I'll take a pick of some sort and try to dig out some of the rubber. Next up is hitting it with my 2d favorite liquid (right after margaritas) - Kroil. And then I take a brass punch, set it on the inner sleeve, and start pounding away with a large ball peen. It's usually freed after a few minutes, sometimes takes some additional drilling and picking.
Then what's left of the rubber usually slides out easily.
And then the fun begins...
There's an outer sleeve that fits just inside the eye of the spring. It's fairly soft metal, which is somewhat helpful. However, since it's quite thin, there's not a lot of room to insert something to press or drive it out. What worked fairly well for me -- use a sawzall to cut almost completely through the sleeve without touching the harder metal of the spring eye. I took it very slow, stopping very few seconds to check.
Then take a chisel use it to cut through the sleeve completely. From there, using chisels, I try to collapse the sleeve so there's no tension holding the sleeve to the spring eye. Once that's done, I drive the sleeve out with a the brass punch. Once that's done, repeat 5 more times...
I had two that were quite reluctant, and that took a LONG time.
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bulletpruf
Well-known member
Rear diff was pretty nasty inside and out. A few posts up, you can see the pictures of it caked in grime. Obviously had a few leaks that attracted dirt (over 1/4" thick in spots), and inside had some pretty nasty oil in it. Once the diff was out, I hit it with a pressure washer with the pencil spray fitting - super high pressure stream. That got most of the grime off the outside and a lot from the inside.
From there, I spent a few hours with the scraper, wire wheel on a drill, wire toothbrush, brake cleaner, acetone, etc. Then hit it with some primer and semi-gloss black.
After I re-installed the bare housing, I was checking out the axle tubes and discovered some damage in the passenger side tube near the axle flange. Certainly looks like evidence that an axle let go at some point.
From there, I spent a few hours with the scraper, wire wheel on a drill, wire toothbrush, brake cleaner, acetone, etc. Then hit it with some primer and semi-gloss black.
After I re-installed the bare housing, I was checking out the axle tubes and discovered some damage in the passenger side tube near the axle flange. Certainly looks like evidence that an axle let go at some point.
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WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
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- 1,019
When I cleaned mine out, I used an old upper shock washer plus a cheap dollar store toilet bowl brush both attached to some old CB antenna's I had laying around. Shock washer is dished so it scraped pretty well the brush is just larger than the ID of a small bearing housing.
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bulletpruf
Well-known member
I like it! Something like that would have been helpful. After hitting it with the pressure washer, I used a broomstick with a towel on the end of it to get the inside of the axle tubes. That, along with several doses of brake cleaner, seemed to do a pretty good job.
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
While the center section was out, I gave it a good cleaning and hit it with a coat of primer, which is the factory finish. It has a new pinion seal, and pre-load set at 20 in/lbs.
I blasted the housing and painted it semi-gloss black. New axle seals, of course.
Backing plates were cleaned and sandblasted and painted semi-gloss black as well.
I also installed new sealed bearings on the axles.
New emergency brake cables are also installed.
Rear brakes have new drums, new shoes, new hardware. Had to scrounge around in my parts stash to find the correct spreader bars for 10" brakes.
Bronco is back in the garage for now. I'm in the midst of a move and it will be a while before I can get back after it.
I blasted the housing and painted it semi-gloss black. New axle seals, of course.
Backing plates were cleaned and sandblasted and painted semi-gloss black as well.
I also installed new sealed bearings on the axles.
New emergency brake cables are also installed.
Rear brakes have new drums, new shoes, new hardware. Had to scrounge around in my parts stash to find the correct spreader bars for 10" brakes.
Bronco is back in the garage for now. I'm in the midst of a move and it will be a while before I can get back after it.
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Kevkx125
Well-known member
Brake refresh looks good ,nice clean work!!
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Thanks. If I take something off I try to either replace it with something new or at least clean, de-rust, and paint. Of course, then it contrasts with the stuff that hasn’t been touched but I’m ok with that.
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bulletpruf
Well-known member
It's been a few months and haven't been able to do anything. I'm living in Northern Virginia for a few years for work, and Bronco is back home in Texas. Next time I go home, I need to spend about a week there wrenching on it. Getting close to it being drivable.
Still in the market for a power steering box if anyone has one.
Still in the market for a power steering box if anyone has one.
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bulletpruf
Well-known member
Well, I sold the '68, which was the smart thing to do (a rare course of action for me!). I paid $2700 for it a few years ago, added an ok top and a nice set of doors, but I pulled the engine and got rid of it. Got my asking price for it - $10,000. It was technically mine, but since my brother in law had given it to me, I split the proceeds with him.
Not much progress on the '69. I'm still in Virginia and it's still back home in Texas. I'll be home for a week during Thanksgiving, so I may pull it out the garage and work on it a bit, but I really need to work on the new-to-me '93 F350. It's a crew cab long bed truck that's been parked in a field on a ranch in west Texas for a few years. It has the drivetrain that I've been searching for -- 7.3 IDI diesel, factory turbo, 5 speed manual trans, 4x4. And I also need to reassemble the TH400 for my 68 GTO, if I can remember how to put one of those back together...
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bulletpruf
Well-known member
Just checking in to report that I have made zero progress. I'm in Virginia for another year; I'll retire in August 2023 and then head back to San Antonio, where all my cars are. I had grandiose plans of driving home every 6 months or so and picking up a project vehicle and assorted parts and hauling it all back to Virginia, but that's a rough trip. It would be two LONG days driving down and three days driving back. Yes, I could pay someone to haul a vehicle from Texas to Virginia, but the issue is getting all the damn parts transported, too.
I do go home about once a month, but that's generally family time with the wife and our 9 year old daughter. Not really the time to pull the Bronco out the garage and dust it off.
On top of that, I started on an ambitious project here - $1,200 1987 F350 diesel dually rescue - complete but needing an engine rebuild. Also swapping to 4WD. For more details, check out my YouTube channel - link in my signature.
I do go home about once a month, but that's generally family time with the wife and our 9 year old daughter. Not really the time to pull the Bronco out the garage and dust it off.
On top of that, I started on an ambitious project here - $1,200 1987 F350 diesel dually rescue - complete but needing an engine rebuild. Also swapping to 4WD. For more details, check out my YouTube channel - link in my signature.
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
I plan on retiring September 2023!
Following along of course!
OP
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Excellent news! You can live vicariously through me!!!