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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Cabin with a Carport

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
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GirlnAgarage

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Today I welded the stack together and got it welded to the smoker. I didn't snap any pics, I just got to work. Tomorrow I'll try to get it all painted.






Oh, and my Sawtooth Oaks arrived. I'll plant them tomorrow.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Those templates were a godsend for this project. Nicely done...
Thank you sir. Looking back now that it's done, I'm glad to have used that method. I learned what's involved to create the cut from scratch. It's the equivalent to doing long division on paper, and understanding how I got the answer, versus just punching it into the calculator. I like the old school knowledge foundation.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Here's a reason I am a country girl, last night's horizon




I messed with the small bay door today. Cut the 12' sheet to size using the 3" cutoff tool. Cutting it to one measure was my first mistake. The opening isn't square so you'll see my demise.

Also I tried using the straight edge and guard on the cutoff tool but found it cumbersome. I removed it and free handed the cuts and it went fine.




In an effort to match up the big ribs since the building isn't level, I cut my long rip cut with some shears. Worked great and got thesngle pretty close.




I ripped some sill gasket down into small strips for a minor airgap, I didn't have enough for whole strips. I bought the edge foam for the vertical sides but the wrong profile so I'll have to reorder.




I stopped here for the day. I will rip the last piece later.




I'm mad at myself for not accounting for the unsquare opening and now there's ugly gaps. I should have left the width a little long, made my long rip cut to account for the unevenness, and then cut the vertical edges. I'm not sure what to do. I'm toying with the idea of ripping a narrow strip and installing it under each edge so everything is covered.

I guess doing the side bay first was a good choice, to learn and screw up on the mostly unseen side lol lesson learned for the big bay door, leave the sheets long and trim it after its installed.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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If you do much more of the sheet work, a nibbler or power shear might be something to think about.
Definitely.
The nibbler might be helpful for cutting across the panels. I'll be dealing with roof panels again when I rebuild the wash shed.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Over the weekend I picked up a Husky shelving unit from HD. I saw it a few days ago set up in the aisle and instantly wanted it. This thing is huge, but easily fit the space I have. I normally build shelves for my organization but this time I bought for convenience. I needed to get stuff off the floor and put somewhere so that I can even have room to build the interior of the workroom like I want. These shelves are sturdy and made in the USA. They were a little pricey, but I had a gift card so in the truck they went.






This is the wreck of a work room I need to organize. This is just pretty much as I moved in and I have been operating like this for a year. I finally am at a point with the rest of the property that I can work on this space now without getting behind somewhere else. Here is what I started with today. The boxes are full of parts, paints oil and supplies as they were packed for the move. I pretty much need to open them up and put the items on the shelf in an organized fashion. Not so hard right?





I'm planned to put the shelf on the right wall where the toolbox is. First order of business was to clear that wall so I can assemble the shelf.




With the spot clear I assembled the shelf. It was a tool-less assembly. The legs clipped into the slot on the end uprights. Then the crossmembers were placed in the designated slots. And finally the wire racks were slid into place. No pics of this process. But here's how it came out.





I went for max height on the shelves since I have the height in there for it. I set the shelves at a 18" or so spacing. It's enough to fit the largest Rubbermaid totes and any packing boxes if I got lazy. As I went, I ended up unpacking all but a few big boxes that need to be consolidated, and any parts boxes that are set for the truck or machine maintenance items. I rearranged the motorcycles so that I could get to the light switch, that some genius placed in the very back corner near the electrical box.





I'll fine tune the placement of supplies as I build out the rest of the workshop. For now, I'm so glad to have my stuff off the floor and I can actually walk in there without climbing over junk to find the thing I needed.

Oh, you'll see it in this perspective but the studs are not plumb, compared to the shelf which is actually sitting level. Whoever built that wall dealt with the same **** I did on the big bay door - an uneven building. He also only set like 3 stud bays at 16" on center and there's inconsistent spacing on others, so there's that too. I had to laugh, I didn't feel so bad anymore that the work I did on that building came out crooked.





I don't know that I will leave the toolbox in that spot. I put it there for now but I anticipate that I'll move it as I get workbenches, shelves and walls built. The bench and pegboard left by the previous owner on the far wall will be taken down. In fact, I'll take the walls down to studs and start with a fresh slate. I do need to see the condition of the studs before I get started. The roof has been leaking due to a poorly installed ridge cover. It allows debris and water to fall onto the floor, but worse fall onto the overhead light and it trips the GFCI and then the whole building loses power. I have some ridge vent foam that I need to install on a dry day. I'll pull the ridge caps off, place the foam down, the reattach the ridge cap. I'll also make sure they pieces are shingled properly for the slope of the building and caulk the seams to keep water from running up under. I'm having issues with that on the whole building.






Overall, really happy to be at this point. This shelving unit allowed me to get ahead so I can start the real work I'd like to do. Normally, I dislike pre-made shelving units, but for whatever reason I liked this one so here it is.
 
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captain14

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Any discoveries of parts or tools that you haven’t seen for a while after the organization? That’s the case with me. I put something in a box when I’m tired and forget about it.

Do you have a metal roof or shingles on the building?

Any plans to relocate the light switch to a better location near the door?
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Any discoveries of parts or tools that you haven’t seen for a while after the organization? That’s the case with me. I put something in a box when I’m tired and forget about it.

Do you have a metal roof or shingles on the building?

Any plans to relocate the light switch to a better location near the door?

I certainly did. Found my vice, some new grinding flap wheels and a new spark plug gap tool lol

The roof is metal panels. From my understanding, this is the second time this building has been assembled. So, it has some areas that are a little loose that I will try to get snugged up.

I would like to relo the light switch to next to the door, add another two 120v circuits (one for workshop theother for the rest of the carport/workout area and a 240v plug for a welder. When I had the house electrical upgraded, I had new subpanels added to my out buildings. So, the slots are already there, it's just a matter of installing breakers, wire and receptacles. I'd like to do that hook up myself for the learning, but I'm aware of the reasons to have the pro do it.
 

rharman

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The shelving looks like it helped a lot. Maybe 1 or 2 more needed? It's like clamps - You can never have enough...
 
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GirlnAgarage

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The shelving looks like it helped a lot. Maybe 1 or 2 more needed? It's like clamps - You can never have enough...
I was thinking the same,it did help alot. I sjould wait though until I build workbenchs. But I do have a potential spot in the carport between the bays.
 

racer-john

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"installing breakers, wire and receptacles. I'd like to do that hook up myself for the learning,"
I started my electrical training when I was about eleven yrs old by replacing the light switch at our side door (without turning off the power OR getting a shock and went on from there) , I'm now 90+. On the job training is the best IF you are careful!
p.s. I did get "hit" by one phase of a 600V 3-phase circuit I was removing. Hardly felt it. Lol.
 

rharman

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The shelving looks like it helped a lot. Maybe 1 or 2 more needed? It's like clamps - You can never have enough...

I was thinking the same,it did help alot. I sjould wait though until I build workbenchs. But I do have a potential spot in the carport between the bays.

Ever thought of using one of the shelves as the bench?
You get storage above & below.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Ever thought of using one of the shelves as the bench?
You get storage above & below.

Mmmm kinda yes and no, hadn't dove into the details. The shelf uprights have outer slots that allow for linking of additional shelves, which would allow for a neat, continuous look around the shop. And I would be able to top the bench level shelf :unsure: It's an option, maybe, depending on the cost. Or I could get a second unit, and cut the upright down in half for height and really customize it out as a loooong workbench along the entire back wall... :unsure::unsure:

You got me thinking now, look out.

The feature I don't like with a workbench is working in a cubby of a space. I prefer the wide long space of a bench. So if I did put shelves above the bench, they'd be higher up and not have it's supporting verticals too narrow/close together.
 

captain14

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The shelving looks like it helped a lot. Maybe 1 or 2 more needed? It's like clamps - You can never have enough...
You know you have to get matching shelves. It would severely mess with someone’s OCD when they viewed this thread and if they didn’t match….

Or build something with your tools and can design them to fit your space.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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I tinkered a bit more in the carport.

I pulled down the ugly wood paneling and the polyfoam that was behind it. Sorry for the photos, the light in the window really distorts the pic.

Before:




I am really happy to find there isn't moisture or damage to the studs. I also have not seen any ore tree leaves and debris blown in. So, perhaps the culprit was taken care of and a tidy up of the ridge cap like I plan will put those concerns to rest.



A couple things there I didn't like, 1) the felt paper is not fully up to the top of the wall and 2) there is a gap in the top exterior board, as if they ran out of wood siding, or didn't feel like ripping a slanted piece to account for the out of plumb building. So, there's a nasty draft through there. Also, whoever built the wall did not remove the metal screw that holds up the horizontal trim and that left a good sized gap between the top plate and the metal building support. I may just foam or silicone that so seal it.






Since I had the polypro foam and it would be waste anyway, I decided to stick it in the stud bays. The benefit may be minimal but as long as the foam is not posing any detriment to the wall, it's fine I guess. Best thing was it covered that large gap. I'll fix it come the day I resheath that wall, if that happens.





Before I stopped for the day I measured up to 48" on the wall, curious where it sat and pre-thinking of how I'd run some surface conduit for outlets. Much to my disappointment but not surprise, 48" is crooked across the 17' wall. Look at the 4x8 sheet of polypro laying on the floor for reference, look how out of plumb things are. The window is not level. And this is going to wreak havoc when I set up my workbench and run outlets.

How do I get around that? How do I disguise such an obvious thing? I have to make my workbench level and when I do it will contrast against the window line and be obviously out of parallel. Anyone have any ideas?






That's as far as I got today, it's still very cold and my fingers and toes were screaming at me. I'll work on things another day. But, nice to work on a space that I don't have to rush to close up or put back in order to park my truck or close up. I really like this part about living in the country. I was raised in the country but since 18 it's been city life with school, marriage, work, moving, life etc. I'm so glad I'm getting back to living where I want to be.
 
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Ole Slewfoot

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Get a curved vintage toolbox, or wedge the chassis nascar style.

The foam board will help, we converted a regular 26' truck box to air conditioned for moving love plants, and the difference was huge(although the cost and time vs purchasing an actual reefer box was kind of a wash.)
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Alrighty, took a little time enjoying spring. It's probably my favorite time of year due to the wildflowers. I'm really tickled to see so much of my property covered in Bluebonnets, Indian Paintbrushes, trumpets and pinwheels and a buncha purply thingies. The pictures don't do the place justice, a photographer I am not, but here are a few.


Before spring time came in I had been working on clearing the new fence line. Yes, the line that neighbor initially disagreed about. But all has gone fine and he's actually been neighborly and agreeable to getting trees cut so the fence goes in right. I have almost a straight line, corner to corner. Neighbor needs to bring down 4 of his mature trees which he is set to do.



Oh something funny not funny. You know how I worked to put of that foam insilation in the carport. Well, I go in aweek or so later and the place is tote up, smell like animal urine, even tar paper is ripped off walls. I'm mad.



I go to emptying the items and hear rustling, oh yea I'm gonna get him! I peek under the last shelf, sure enough, found him. That dang orange boy cat that I hadn't seen in a few days.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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You mean the "*****" ones?
Lol
Yeah, the girls are pretty cool, they swing by for cattle cubes in the morning and evening. They're very gentle and if I could by them, I would. Very good dispositions.

We call them 'the horned kitties' as our inside cats like to chirp at them.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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You already have bluebonnets, it's three weeks away in north Texas.
That we do, they came in very early, the last week in February. They are on the backside of their display now. But, they were great. I suspect since it warmed up pretty quick down here the plant life come out and wouldn't be held back. The newly planted peach, pecan and oaks are growing leaves like crazy.

The Paintbrushes are a week or so behind and are just coming into their prime. I'd like to let everything seed before mowing everything down. It always seems like that balance of let 'em grow vs I gotta mow lol
 
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GirlnAgarage

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A little more on the utv...



It's a 2017 Kioti Mechron 2200PS 4x4 Diesel with 422hrs. This was a local trade in and I bumped into it just browsing the tractor lot on Saturday. I've been in the market for both a compact tractor and a utv for the past year, but finding the right deal at the right time was the challenge. It's tough to move onto a new place and immediately have all the tools and machines you need to get the jobs done. Youtube glosses over that part and makes it all look easy to purchase thousands of dollars in equipment in the snap of a finger. In real life, that's not how it goes. Anyway... think I got a good deal on it from the info I could find. I was looking for a diesel 4x4 and they don't pop up too much without costing an arm and a leg. I went with Kioti as I felt comfortable from all the tractor research I've done. In fact, I'd like a Kioti tractor as well, at least the ck2610 but recently with the market, the ck4010 is attainable. With this purchase, I think the tractor will be on hold until next year. For the meantime I'll rent a tractor to get the few jobs done I need. This utv will help get the fence built, haul firewood and do the heavy carrying that has been done by hand up to this point. So, it'll make those jobs quicker and less tiring.

The dash is all pretty basic - 4wd, diff lock, power steering, speed/fuel/temp indicators, and has lights/blinkers/hazards etc.




It's got the dump bed, manual latch but has the hydraulic piston assist. If I get to the point a full hydraulic dump system is needed, I'll see what I can add on. The payload is almost 1600lbs w a 1300lbs tow capacity. The bed has 14.4cuft space. I'll use it to pull the 25T log splitter to the cutting site, process the wood and then carry it all back to stack. Moving/processing firewood is where I'll see a huge help in work. There is only so far I can take the trucks due to the trees being dense, and the trucks are too heavy for the sand. A brief goof around, uh test drive after getting it home showed the lighter machine will d a little better on not compacting the soil but still heavy enough to be sure footed. The machine weighs under a ton. Dry weight about 16, wet close to 19.




The engine is a Daedong 22hp 3cyl inline 62cuin diesel, liquid cooled. Fuel tank is a little over 7gal.



I'm looking forward to using this thing. It's not a speed demon, which is fine, this property will roll a machine quick so steady is probably better lol Wil have some updates with it at work. Soon as I can mow the wildflowers down the fence work will resume.

Oh, talking about wildflowers, check out the Bluebonnet seed pods that are popping up, they're all over the place.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Worked on the lawn mower today, the grass is calling. Dad was kind enough to pass down one of his mowers to me so I wouldn't have to buy a whole new one. It's an '05 JD L130 w the Kohler CV23S Vtwin. It's seen its share of work so there's a few things I can touch up to get her running at her best.

She wouldn't start last time out. Just cranked n cranked. Upon closer inspection I found debris in the tank, and fuel wasn't getting to the filter. So, I begin tear down so I can remove the tank to clean it, and clear the lines. Hopefully it's not cracked as I don't want to spend $240 on a new one, but I'll cross that bridge.



Tear down was going fine, removed the battery, disconnect harnesses and undo the bolts holding the lower and upper console. I pulled the steering wheel and steering shaft as well. Unfortunately two of the lower console bolts rounded out and I couldn't get them out with anything I had. I'd have to go to town for bolt extractors. They started as 10mm heads but they're about at an 8mm now. I'm pretty mad at them for holding up the whole show.

Here's the last two bolts in question. I can't get them to budge. These 6 bolts were so rusted on that I used the mid-torque 1/2 to get them off.




I decided to switch gears and pull the deck, I need it out of the way anyway so I can evaluate the steering. I'll be installing a new belt too, this one is cracked pretty good. The pulleys all move freely which is nice I don't have to get into those. The deck will get a good wash before it goes back on.




Back up front, I pulled the old fuel pump on and threw on a new one. Then I pulled the air cleaner off and found a surprise. There was a ball bearing sitting inside the filter. That threw me for a loop but after some research discovered it goes inside the orifice of the fuel spitback cup. I'm still trying to find out what that does but least I know where the ball bearing came from. It had me stumped.






I texted Dad and he asked if maybe a BB got in there cause he and my niece like to shoot a lot in the backyard lol No Dad, not a BB, I took a comparison photo for him. The ball bearing is on the left, the BB on the right.



I'm glad I found the info I did. There's not a lot out there and what I did find was older info, but exactly what I'm dealing with.

Tomorrow I'll go out and see if I can reinstall the ball bearing. I also have a bolt extractor set I'm going to throw at the two remaining bolts. I also grabbed some new bolts to reinstall when it all goes back together.

The last major work I'll do is repair or replace the front spindles and hardware. I might upgrade the wheel bushings to bearings with the kit too. The front tires have bad toe out and negative camber from repeatedly slamming into rutted dry clay cracks at full speed, it makes it extremely hard to steer the mower. So, that is getting fixed. I got a huge blister on my palm after a day of fighting the mower on half the property. I can't do that again. Fix it it is.
 
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Sifan

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typical John Deere seat, not typical John Deere hood. Most hoods of that year have been shattered into many pieces. should give you several years of service with the service you're giving it!
 
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GirlnAgarage

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typical John Deere seat, not typical John Deere hood. Most hoods of that year have been shattered into many pieces. should give you several years of service with the service you're giving it!
I surely hope so, it'll be worth it I think. New mowers are crazy expensive. My parts list is sitting at $500 and that includes a new tank, wheel bearing upgrade kit and new spindles/hardware. Speaking of the hood, I think for fun I'll take some Meguires polishing compound to it and the rest of the tractor to make the green pop. It won't take much. And the seat, yeah that's seen way better days lol
 

DennisK59

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A roll of yellow Duct tape will get you by on the seat for a couple of years , if you keep it out of the sun.
 

68400BIRD

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I have replaced the gas tank and seat on mine. If you buy a seat make sure it has the sensor in it. Mine did not and I had to make a plate for it as I remember.
 
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