Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Cabin with a Carport

[theoldwizard1]

I'm only 5'3", they're all BIG
The cows, and other animals push on things and stuff starts leaning over.

A friend has a couple of horses. Or I should say his WIFE has a couple of horses. Elvis was a big boy and would lean on fence posts. Broke several 6x6 PT posts. They got rid of Elvis (donated him to a vet school) and got a smaller, easier to ride horse.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

A friend has a couple of horses. Or I should say his WIFE has a couple of horses. Elvis was a big boy and would lean on fence posts. Broke several 6x6 PT posts. They got rid of Elvis (donated him to a vet school) and got a smaller, easier to ride horse.

Golly sounds like a monster. Speaking of, on the way to meet friends for breakfast I passed by a farm that had a horse standing at the fence. I thought he looked big but thought 'nah, just perspective'. Then I look further into the field, there were other horses, much smaller horses. The guy on the fence was huge! He was standing there as if to say 'hey look how much I am'.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Yesterday I added another ounce of dye to the pond. I was a bit fed up at the amount of pond scum, and the color of the pond, it was back to brown again. It looked as if I hadn't put a thing in it the day before. I don't know if I miscalculated or what but I added more.
Today it seems to have made a difference. The pond scum at this moment is not nearly as bad as days prior at this time. And I can see the color of the water looks drk blu instead of brown. The fountain will be running soon. When it runs, the pond clears up beautifully. Can even see it destroy the scum turning it from a bright green to brown within minutes.

Oh also, my special delivery arrived!

I rented a Toolcat and an auger attachment and a couple bits. I plan to tackle post holes. But first I gotta practice. The controls on this machine is unlike anything I'm use to so it's going to take a minute to get smoother. It's very simple, but my brain is organizing the movements. Since I'm still learning, I practiced on removing some rotted out stumps in the yard. I figured if I hit it, ran through, or otherwise demolished a thing by moving in a way I didn't intend, it's fine being an old stump lol Took out 3.

After it cools off and I pull this brisket off the smoker I'm going to go out and swap attachments and practice making straight holes in the ground. The first corner post that has to go in is flanked by a little oak tree on one side and a large wooden overhead cable pole w fiber/data lines on the other. I probably ought to be smooth about my controls or else the neighborhood might be mad at me.

With the random outside work I'm still prepping and priming more posts, a little at a time. One of these days I'll be done with them.






Here the ol' Kioti met the Bobcat. I'm put them side by side for reference.


Just another shot of the machine

 

[GirlnAgarage]

It's been an exhausting but productive week I guess. The East section of fence has been torn down, along with the old gate entrance, a lot of old fence ripped out, vines and overhanging trees removed and two new corner posts put in . Not to mention more pipe posts primered, even painted. There's been some ups and downs...progress and redos....but dang if rebuilding 255' of fence with gated entrance don't build character....

The Toolcat has been fun to learn but I'm seeing it's pros and cons. On one hand, super handy to take off and do bucket
stuff with. Code to start and A/C, heck yah. On the other hand, I'm a bit annoyed the the loader bucket doesn't fit the Bobcat loader attachment profile right so the Bobtach system doesn't work right; the pins won't latch without persuasion. You have to go outside with a crow bar and baby sledge to pound the pins into place and grab the backside of the bucket. Could be a matter of this "bucket don't fit that machine" matter, but that's annoying and not how its suppose to work. I ain't got time or the extra hand to be doing that. It's not easy to swap attachments like it should be. Today I needed to switch from auger to bucket to smooth the fence line but didn't feel like going through the hassle. It's 100* outside, been working for 8 hours already and I just need to swap tasks, not commit to a whole new situation and use up whatever energy I have left. At these temps, exertion and energy usage - efficiency is critical. My energy and effort is finite! Not happy about that.

The Blue Diamond auger is helpful and I'm learning a bunch. But a few observations. The swing of the arm driving into the ground changes the angle of the bit in the hole. I had to reposition the machine to keep the auger bit vertical as I applied downforce to the arm. A bit annoying as small adjustments forward or back on the Toolcat don't stay "set". Even though I inch up or back and get on the brake, the machine still inches back to out of position. I don't know if that is a matter of being hydraulically driven or a technique issue I can do differently? But something to note. So, it was a balance of adjust forward or back just enough, without dong something dumb and over stressing or tweaking the auger bit in the ground. Also the bit is ok but seems like I don't get enough downforce on the auger without lifting the machine up. Is that normal? Would that be less noticeable in a heavier skid steer? Next is the torque of the bit. Seems ok but not a lot of speeding from the auger. I'm in Work mode, on Rabbit RPM but that dirt bit just slowly ground away at the the hard sandstone. Is that a machine issue or an auger selection issue?

This Toolcat does turn on a dime, runs smoothly and is easy to handle. I want one at my disposal, but for the cost, it's not realistic to keep one around. I didn't think I'd say it but it looks more economical to have a compact tractor around than a Toolcat. Which is too bad. That's not a final decision but I just can't see that I'd have one around without it being a steal or fluke or a deal that an affordable not too expensive option came around.

Well I gotta hit the sack, I'm exhausted. I have pictures but I'm too tired to get them up tonight. Befores and afters, plus my primer and paint setup. Another day I'll get them up. The plan for tomorrow is knock out more post holes and get them set.

Have a good one.

 

[Prospecter]

For comparison. . . I have an older JD 30 hp tractor. My post hole digger goes on the 3ph, so I still have the loader on the front. My experience with the digger mirrors yours. The geometry of the frame requires constant repositioning while digging. I have clay soil, and at times, the auger just rides on smooth clay rather than digging in. At other times it will hang up on a rock and I need a pipe wrench to back out the auger. For single hand attaching, I would rig up a frame and winch to hold the digger when not using.

Compact tractors do not "turn on a dime." Especially without enough weight on the front wheels. A front loader really helps put weight on the front for steering.

My daughter has a 40 hp JD. Hers has hydrostatic transmission, and quick attach bucket, forks, and snow plow. Her QA forks are much better than my bolt on the bucket ones. The JD QA system works well, but is proprietary.

I also have a small 15 hp Kubota. I have come to really like this. Does most of what I want at much lower expense. It lacks a front loader, so steers hard, especially with a load on the back. Belly mower cuts well, but difficult to take on and off. On the other hand, I can do most 3ph chores and leave the mower on, so it's a compromise. These older small Kubotas are generally less than $5k around here with 500 or so hours on the meter. I like the JD HST and operator station better than Kubota, but that's personal preference.

Your thread is on my watch list. Really enjoy following along. You've made considerable progress since your first post.

 

[sean Buick 76]

very cool projects!

 

[GirlnAgarage]

For comparison. . . I have an older JD 30 hp tractor. My post hole digger goes on the 3ph, so I still have the loader on the front. My experience with the digger mirrors yours. The geometry of the frame requires constant repositioning while digging. I have clay soil, and at times, the auger just rides on smooth clay rather than digging in. At other times it will hang up on a rock and I need a pipe wrench to back out the auger. For single hand attaching, I would rig up a frame and winch to hold the digger when not using.

Compact tractors do not "turn on a dime." Especially without enough weight on the front wheels. A front loader really helps put weight on the front for steering.

My daughter has a 40 hp JD. Hers has hydrostatic transmission, and quick attach bucket, forks, and snow plow. Her QA forks are much better than my bolt on the bucket ones. The JD QA system works well, but is proprietary.

I also have a small 15 hp Kubota. I have come to really like this. Does most of what I want at much lower expense. It lacks a front loader, so steers hard, especially with a load on the back. Belly mower cuts well, but difficult to take on and off. On the other hand, I can do most 3ph chores and leave the mower on, so it's a compromise. These older small Kubotas are generally less than $5k around here with 500 or so hours on the meter. I like the JD HST and operator station better than Kubota, but that's personal preference.

Your thread is on my watch list. Really enjoy following along. You've made considerable progress since your first post.

The geometry took a little getting used to. I finally figured out how to keep the machine adjusted so I had a straighter entry/exit with the auger bit. It got critical digging the loose sand to keep as much on the bit to clean out the hole and not collapse the sides. I did use water poured in the hole to help keep the sand packed together. There were two holes that had to be re-dug, one for collapse and the other for bad placement. Glad I don't have straight clay here. I grew up where we had the dark gray/black clay. That stuff is difficult to work in. I've got striations of red clay here but it is not the evil one - the evil one I face, that is the red sandstone

The Toolcat 4wheel steering shined in the trees. I was able to weave in and out to get to my approach for the holes. A compact tractor would have had a tougher time getting in but I wonder if the digging performance of the tractor would be better once it was in place? I think what I missed immediately was the hydrostatic controls of how the compact tractors are setup. The Toolcat uses a lever on the left of the steering wheel to change direction forward or back. That was not intuitive at all and took some getting used to. I was use to foot pedals. I do think it made my control of the machine a little clunkier as I had to take my hand off the joystick to swap directions which means I couldn't keep smooth multiple movements of the lift arm at the same time.

I wish JD didn't have the proprietary attachment system. It is one of the factors that I'm skewing away from JD. Well that, a few other things. I did drive and like the Kioti and Bobcats. I think they're the same tractors, different colors for the most part. But so far I like what I've researched. I do think the compact tractor is a lot more affordable and realistic of a purchased than a Toolcat. I may try to rent one so I can get it on the property to see how it performs on the terrain. It may seal the deal so I can finally make that purchase.

I appreciate you checking in on my thread. There's so much work here, rehabbing the property there is no shortage of something to do and see.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Said I had pictures, here we go...


My primer setup...Rustoleum red oxide primer, paint pan, baby roller 3/8" nap, kitchen whisk, drill and a jar of spaghetti sauce.

JK...its an outside whisk now...

Ok ok...fine. It's not a jar of spaghetti sauce. That's my used primer paint thinner. I'm thinning the primer in a ratio that results in the brush marks smooth out but not runs off the pipe. I have no clue what measurement that is. A splash. Kind of how I cook, I don't measure, I just eyeball...you know, like grandma cooks.





Grinder vs Mouse
I keep repeating in my head while I work, like someone up in my Painting Pipe Fence thread told me, "doesn't have to be perfect". I compromised. Pipe on top is a horizontal brace, I used a grinder (80 grit)on the whole thing. Bottom pipe is a vertical brace post. It's grinder on the left half (above ground) and mouse (80 grit paper) on the right half (in the ground portion). Look, I know it's overthinking, just let my brain have something okay.

Like I mentioned before the mouse is faster/less fatigue but not as deep a prep - it does the in ground work, it won't be seen so if the paint job is not as well prepped, I won't see it or care. The grinder is a little more work, but much clean prep and I will see my paint job. I want it to last. It does the above ground portions of the work.

Basically, giving up the grinder on some halves of the work is faster and less fatigue but still will net me a satisfying job.







Destruction of the old stuff. This gate entrance has to go, on both sides. Got my shovel and got to work. My plan for the entrance is to

1. Keep the property front line
2. Widen the entrance to improve swing in with a truck and trailer
3. Deepen the entrance so a truck & trailer fits in and gets off the roadway when it is parked to enter

 

[GirlnAgarage]

The old front entrance torn down. Kept the gate post hung for now, symbolic mostly to tell people you still can't come up the drive. The neighbor's dog saw me working, came to hang out.





The next corner post was dug and put up. The challenges in this corner was the young oak tree on the fenceline and an ATT fiber optic lined that runs to the neighbor's. The original plan was to set the pipe in the same spot as the old rickety post. However, there were two post set at an angle and it was a dumb corner. So to simplify it, I pulled the post over about a foot and set it there to avoid the issues.

With this in place the old front fence line can be pulled down on this side and across the driveway. This runs to the North line front corner post. This line will have terrain challenges, it runs at a downward slope, into and across the wet weather creek and back up on the other side.

Oh, forgot to tell the story on this post hole. Used the one man auger on this, simply cause it was a tight space and I didn't want to break things. Well, got the post piloted out with a 6" bit, went to widen with the 8" and proceeded to get the bit stuck in the ground 4.5' down The harbor freight auger does not have a reverse so that means a magical fun time trying to figure out how to get this stuck auger bit out. After a lot of deadlift yanking and cussing, finally used my brain. Got a pipe wrench and unscrewed the auger front the ground. Righty tightie leftie loosie

Don't let the perspective fool you, my post is plumb, I checked! It's all the other stuff around it that's crooked.





The left front section is cleared and you can see the North front corner post. That took a lot of trimming up an old oak, clearing off the old property corner and getting down the old tpost, barbed wire and rotted but stubborn cedar line post. Two tpost broke off in the ground, below grade thank goodness. And I ended up cutting the cedar posts about 2' below grade. They had curved over time and I couldn't get them pulled out. I cut my losses then cut them. I felt comfortable leaving posts in the ground since they were not spots I was putting in new holes or posts. So, that stuff can rot and return to nature.


The hole you see next to the drive will be where the other gate post will set.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Here's the old North front corner. This corner was old cedar post that were taken over by wild berry vines...monsters... The water mater is on this corner and something that has to be watched out for. No before shots, just got to work and forgot to get a before photo.





With the entire front line cleared and stringed the first gate entrance post was dug. Went to 4.5' on this.





In cab view




I have more pics to come of things setup but for now going to go outside to work. It's already late and getting hot. The Toolcat gets picked up today. Waiting on his ride to get here.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Here's that first front entry post in the ground. Came out tall. This sandstone is ridiculous.





Brace post and deadman in the ground. The 2nd post also is tall. While I was able to dig the depth I needed, it was very difficult to get the hole cleaned out. I ended up with a lot of loose dirt I just could not get clear. This was a theme, though for other holes I used a row how to tediously ladle out dirt scoop by scoop Is there a better way? We have clamshell shovel but the sand just falls through. I presented the idea of watering the sand but it was not met with any positive reaction.




And here's the corresponding other corner. Came out fine. The deadman and brace post both did have to be re-dug. The deadman collapsed, it was very fine dry sand and the brace post hole was off enough I couldn't get it plumb. Those holes frustrated me pretty good. I tell you what, a good torture is to have someone scoop dry sand in the desert for eternity.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Painted the front posts this morning. What's left to be done on this side is install 1 line post, 4 tposts and attach the 4 horizontal braces to the corners for the HN. After that, fence can be stretched on.






Here's a look at the entry way. As you can see from the black post on the left and the temporary tpost marker on the right the initial entry gets considerably wider, 8' total. This is where the better swing in will occur. The front corner of the truck won't hit the far post and the rear end of trailer won't hit near post, as was tradition.

For the actual gate-hanging posts, that spot is inset 31' from these posts. The gate will be 14' wide. And the entry hallway, if you will, will narrow from this front post to the gate hanging post at a nice angle.

That big tree on the left will be taken down. It directly in the way for the entry hallway. I don't want to but the "nice thing" is the tree is hollow all the way up and it needs to be taken down by choice before it decides on its own when and where to fall. You can see the big slash up the tree trunk if you look closely, that's all hollow from the ground to the canopy branches.






And a neat thing, I've been catching turtles climbing up on the fountain float to sun themselves. Clever guy.





The rest of the week I'll be prepping posts and hopefully get them complete. It worked out well to have the primered posts to throw in the ground then paint them after they are standing. While that means I can't install brackets or fencing immediately, it gives time for the Sakrete and the repacked dirt to set. I dislike having the yard wide open, especially such a large area, but it's what's required for this fence style setup and size of work crew

 

[Bob Heine]

Monica, I see your shovel in that photo and wonder why you choose a short handle one. I have a couple but prefer long handle shovels to get leverage with my armpit.

When they made my first arm and asked what I did for a living, I told them I was a technical writer. They made a very light light but very fragile arm for me. A few years later, digging a twelve foot deep, ten foot diameter hole for a new septic dry-well the main cable on the arm broke three times. First two times the repair involved four hours on a train and two hours at the Institute for the Crippled and Disabled (my alma mater). I talked them out of the set of parts to make the third one myself at home. When I broke down a few years later and had a new arm made, my answer to how I made my living was "I dig ditches." I still have that slightly heavier but unbreakable arm and it still has its original cables.

Obviously your weight training and "Who you callin' lazy" attitude helps and I'm eager to open each new post to see you posting posts.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I'm only 5'3"!
Is that a short joke Bob?




Jk...The sharpshooter is my favorite shovel. It's light and digs for depth. The handle is short, and horizontal, and places where I grab that I can control the blade and where I place my dig. I can be precise and can twist the handle for just the right point of impact when working around in ground objects. The handle is in a good position for leveraging my downforce. Once the blade is in the ground, for the last bit of bite I can step on the back edge and lean on the shovel and take the bite out.

As for scooping out what I just dug up, if it's a nice clean hit the soil sticks on the blade and it's easy to lift out and swing over. This part here is the hardest part on my wrist if I don't do it right. I lay my entire forearm over the handle and wrap my fingers under the stick and leverage it, then lift. Body positioning comes into play too (bend my knees, not my back, etc) and I usually choke up on the shovel if it's fully loaded to reduce the load leverage to keep fatigue down.

As for why I ever started using a sharpshooter, I get it from my Dad. He worked for the NRCS for his entire career which mean he dug a lot of holes out in the field when mapping. He used a sharpshooter, he always had one in his truck or in the shed. And anytime he did any yardwork he used the sharpshooter.

Long handle shovels are tough for me to use to dig a hole for depth, but I use one for scooping loose dirt to move material en mass. I feel like a kid that is too small and can't control the adult sized tools lol

 

[Prospecter]

Fence looks great! Such a lot of work. I think I'd be looking for a subcompact tractor with a back hoe. Or one of those little towable backhoes. But I'm lazy.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Fence looks great! Such a lot of work. I think I'd be looking for a subcompact tractor with a back hoe. Or one of those little towable backhoes. But I'm lazy.

Thank you Prospector. It has definitely been a lot of work and still more to come.
I've got a few reoccurring things a backhoe would be great for. There's stumps galore that I'd like to get out of the way for mowing. Could also use it in the creek too to dredge and maintain the waterway. The sand washes down and ends up creating a shallow in the pond.

I would like to rent a tractor to see how it does here on the terrain. I've been set on a Bobcat or Kioti 25 or 35hp model. Even toyed with biting the money bullet and going to a 40hp. We shall see. Something is coming, don't know what yet.

I appreciate you taking the time to check out the progress.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

When prepping the horizontal cross brace pipes for primer, I have to pay special attention to the ends and ensure the Bullet Fence collar will slip over the end as it should. If it doesn't fit, I grind a little more.

View attachment 2153329 View attachment 2153330

 

[Prospecter]

That's the kind of thing I'd forget about every third time!

 

[GirlnAgarage]

That's the kind of thing I'd forget about every third time!

This knowledge was not gained without experience

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Took a break from fence work and got to some odds today


First thing, removing the grill guard from the Salamander. Can anyone guess what repair might come next needing that part removed?





Next up, rear shocks. But first, anyone else a member of the cardboard creeper club? Working in the dirt blows.
Since I ain't got that one hand for holding the wrench on a bolt head, Irwin gave me an extra hand while I got shock nuts snugged back in place.





Finally unloaded and assembled my new floor jack. This one is going in the truck with me. A second will get thrown in Salamander. Changing the blowout the other morning exposed my tire change process, the factory jack ended up just short enough I couldn't get the spare installed...the flat one came off just fine

I went with this style floor jack as 1. I don't have a nice concrete driveway to work on anyway. And 2. flat tires on the road don't happen on nice floor jack terrain. This jack is heavy. But rolls easy over gravel, has a long handle for getting it into place under the truck easily, and lifts pretty high. Just past my knee. Actually kind scary imagining that thing lifting the truck that much. I'm about to go use it to get the front shocks changed. Letting the axle hang prevents fighting a compressed shock on the crowded engine bay.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Alright front shocks are now done. They can be a handful and the fronts are never as smooth as the rear but it is what it is and they're done now.

Part of the unfun is when removing the top nut from the shock tower the rod tends to spin too. Holding it can be done with an allen wrench or a small combo wrench depending on the type. In this case I was removing some worn out KYB shocks and it had a slot on top. I tried to get an 8mm open end to stay put but couldn't; tried a small vice grip, no luck. I noticed that the top half of the shock body was rotating too. So, out came the handy pipe wrench (the all star in removing the auger bit stuck in the ground the other day) and grabbed a hold of the shock body. Wedged it against the coil spring tower and off the top nut came.

The Husky pipe wrench I'm using is a self adjusting pipe wrench, not the standard wrench. I received a set from my Dad several years back and threw them in my truck. I haven't ever really used them much until this week and they really came through. I like the design in that it gets into a tight spot and it really cinches down. It is less clunky than a standard wrench. Glad I had it.





Putting the new shocks on can be a struggle. Even with the truck frame up on the jack I had a couple inches I needed the shock compressed so I could reinstall the shock tower. The other shock installs on these trucks I've compressed the shock tower from the top but it's tough. Today I figured out I could get these compressed using ol' Irwin's help again. Luckily these 4600s are not as stiff as the 5100s and they complied without much fight.




I didn't get any shots of the new floor jack in action. Should have but I was focused on the shocks. I did find the jack easy to use, easy to get into place and it felt sturdy. The handle was long enough I had leverage to pump it up. For as heavy as that little tank is, I can easily get it into position. So far, positive review of that jack.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

My mind woke up over coffee and remembered there's a few tools that I need to put on my list:

- 1/2" drive impact extension 6"
- Icon 21mm reversible ratcheting wrench, or the large wrench package

And I have to find my shallow 21mm socket from my Craftsman mechanics kit. Where that thing is I have no idea but I know I've seen it and told myself, "I need to put that back"...

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Got a few more things accomplished.

The hollow front oak tree at the gate was brought down. It fell where it needed to and it was quickly cut up. The top trunk and canopy branches were all good and healthy. But the big base trunk was rotted out, with 2-3" of outer tree remaining. I did get a little firewood out of it which I'll split on another day.






Next thing after lunch got the corner turned on the North side and the brace and deadman are finally installed. It was a long time coming getting these up. These are the best dug holes with the Toolcat - straight, deep enough and easily cleaned out. The soil was some packed sand, layer of sandstone at about 3' and red clay after the breaking through the sandstone. Very happy with the results.





I have 7 more post holes I can dig with the Toolcat this round. Due to terrain I have to use the one man auger for the 2 remaining brace posts. Then 3 more line posts that will be dug with the one man auger. I am glad the holes only need to be 2-3' deep instead of 4.5-5'. Those should be quicker, but famous last words and all that.

Man, listing all that out it feels like I'm still a long ways out from being at the point fence can go up. Numbers-wise 8 posts have been dug and set. Feels like so much has been accomplished. But at only "halfway done" for the big work, it feels like so far to go. Ayeeeee!

 

[Prospecter]

Took a break from fence work and got to some odds today


First thing, removing the grill guard from the Salamander. Can anyone guess what repair might come next needing that part removed?

View attachment 2154161 View attachment 2154162



Next up, rear shocks. But first, anyone else a member of the cardboard creeper club? Working in the dirt blows.
Since I ain't got that one hand for holding the wrench on a bolt head, Irwin gave me an extra hand while I got shock nuts snugged back in place.

View attachment 2154163 View attachment 2154164



Finally unloaded and assembled my new floor jack. This one is going in the truck with me. A second will get thrown in Salamander. Changing the blowout the other morning exposed my tire change process, the factory jack ended up just short enough I couldn't get the spare installed...the flat one came off just fine

I went with this style floor jack as 1. I don't have a nice concrete driveway to work on anyway. And 2. flat tires on the road don't happen on nice floor jack terrain. This jack is heavy. But rolls easy over gravel, has a long handle for getting it into place under the truck easily, and lifts pretty high. Just past my knee. Actually kind scary imagining that thing lifting the truck that much. I'm about to go use it to get the front shocks changed. Letting the axle hang prevents fighting a compressed shock on the crowded engine bay.


View attachment 2154165View attachment 2154166

View attachment 2154167

I like the clamp technique. Even those of us with two hands need those tricks sometimes, and I will remember yours. I most commonly run into difficulty on my sailboat. Visegrips are my goto. They grip well, and usually can be arranged to bump up against something so I can wrench on the other end.

 

[Prospecter]

Alright front shocks are now done. They can be a handful and the fronts are never as smooth as the rear but it is what it is and they're done now.

Part of the unfun is when removing the top nut from the shock tower the rod tends to spin too. Holding it can be done with an allen wrench or a small combo wrench depending on the type. In this case I was removing some worn out KYB shocks and it had a slot on top. I tried to get an 8mm open end to stay put but couldn't; tried a small vice grip, no luck. I noticed that the top half of the shock body was rotating too. So, out came the handy pipe wrench (the all star in removing the auger bit stuck in the ground the other day) and grabbed a hold of the shock body. Wedged it against the coil spring tower and off the top nut came.

The Husky pipe wrench I'm using is a self adjusting pipe wrench, not the standard wrench. I received a set from my Dad several years back and threw them in my truck. I haven't ever really used them much until this week and they really came through. I like the design in that it gets into a tight spot and it really cinches down. It is less clunky than a standard wrench. Glad I had it.


View attachment 2154423


Putting the new shocks on can be a struggle. Even with the truck frame up on the jack I had a couple inches I needed the shock compressed so I could reinstall the shock tower. The other shock installs on these trucks I've compressed the shock tower from the top but it's tough. Today I figured out I could get these compressed using ol' Irwin's help again. Luckily these 4600s are not as stiff as the 5100s and they complied without much fight.

View attachment 2154424


I didn't get any shots of the new floor jack in action. Should have but I was focused on the shocks. I did find the jack easy to use, easy to get into place and it felt sturdy. The handle was long enough I had leverage to pump it up. For as heavy as that little tank is, I can easily get it into position. So far, positive review of that jack.

Another good 'un! I've also used the old pipe wrench on the stuck auger trick frequently. Sometimes also resorting to a cheater bar on the pipe wrench!

 

[Bob Heine]

I share a fondness for clamps. I keep a bunch of spring- and c-clamps in a drawer and a few hanging in front of the unused side of the double door on the workshop. The 6-foot long 3/4" black pipe for the pipe clamps are stored in flanges in the back.

 

[Prospecter]

I share a fondness for clamps. I keep a bunch of spring- and c-clamps in a drawer and a few hanging in front of the unused side of the double door on the workshop. The 6-foot long 3/4" black pipe for the pipe clamps are stored in flanges in the back.

When you and Girl start talking clamps, I sit up and pay attention. You both have some great tips!

 

[theoldwizard1]

But first, anyone else a member of the cardboard creeper club? Working in the dirt blows.
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I don't have a nice concrete driveway to work on anyway.

I DO have a concrete driveway to work on AND a genuine Craftsman wooden creeper ! It getd caught in the expansion joints so I use the cardboard creeper ! It also catch any drips when I change the oil !

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Woke up early and got to work, made progress only to be rained out 2hrs later

Started by removing the old left gate post. I wanted it out of the way to get a better approach with the Toolcat on the corner entry post ahead of it. Bob, I took a photo for you of my using the sharpshooter. It gets down quick and precise. I had that old post out 30min from parking the utv out there.






Here's a clear left side entry. Time to dig hole. About 4' down the sky got real purple. I figured let's finish had about 5-10min. Nope. Had 2. Ran inside to get out of the rain. It cleared up 30min later was back out. Figured might as well set the post. Loaded Sakrete and got the post. Soon as I parked back at the entry it started to rain. Decided to push through, dropped the corner post in the ground as the rain fell. Quickly got the Sakrete out of truck and into the hole, plumbed the pipe and made the 'got all wet already, might as well walk' trek inside. I changed into dry clothes and took a nap fr the next few hours. Woke up to sun.





Didn't get any working pics. Just hit it hard to get the two gate hanging posts in. This section required a lot of measuring, The 20'6" entrance narrows to a 14' gate set 31' into a funnel. No problem. Getting on site, the driveway comes off the street at a goofy angle, it's not even square That muddied to water on symmetrical and aesthetics. After a lot of measuring, stepping back and looking, remeasuring, moving pins, and lots of back and forth, finally settled on what I think is a balance of everything.

The two gate hanging posts were bears to dig. The sandstone wasn't terrible but the red clay wanted to fight. Every time a clean auger bit was sent down, 3ater was also poured into the hole. It helped break up the dry compactness and get it all to stick together that the hole was easily cleaned out.

Setting the gate posts to matching height was critical and managed to get them very well lined up. Also spent a lot of time measuring and accounting for the gate and hardware. I believe I've got it all set. I wish I had the gate here already to go right off of that but I don't so, gotta make due with internet info. So far, I'm happy how they came out.



Unfortunately the rain delay interfered with the time I had to dig holes and use the Toolcat. I had the 4 vertical brace posts of the entry marked out and ready to dig (except for the one that the stump interferes with) but I wasn't able to get to them. Really not thrilled about that as those are 4' holes too in the same ground. Using the one-man auger might do it's user in. IDK what I'll do...maybe rent the darn Toolcat again. IDK. It gets picked up tomorrow, sorry to see it go. Guess that's the downside to renting equipment, it's not around when you do get a few moments to knock out a little work. Time-wise it is taking 30min-1hr to dig a 4-5' hole, depending on soil conditions, measuring, cleanouts, etc. This is a huge time savings compared to 4hrs of the one man auger, rock bar, shovel, rinse repeat. Saves A LOT of work and effort, and time of course. I'm fortunate to rent the machine.

Overall the front is coming together. It's hard to see the posts and they are red oxide primer colored, but that entry has opened up alot. I'm realizing gate entry ways are really work intensive. Starting to feel like ground hog day.




I am thankful for the rain. Even though it set my work back, the rain was needed. While I don't see the plan, I trust it's for the best. For whatever reason I wasn't suppose to get those holes dug this weekend. I'll get to the end of this section eventually, same as the North line. It's a marathon, not a sprint. I appreciate all the work and progress that has been made so far.

 

[Prospecter]

Good progress! Maybe if you rent help again, you can try out a compact or subcompact tractor for comparison. Maybe with a little backhoe on it?

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Good progress! Maybe if you rent help again, you can try out a compact or subcompact tractor for comparison. Maybe with a little backhoe on it?

I think that is a great idea. Discovered yesterday that the Bobcat tractor dealer does rent out machines. I do want to compare. I'll get in touch with them and see.

 

[Bob Heine]

Bob, I took a photo for you of my using the sharpshooter. It gets down quick and precise. I had that old post out 30min from parking the utv out there.

Monica, I have an embarrassingly large collection of shovels. I have also lived with a 5'3" redhead for more than 62 years so I never make short jokes (a person is vulnerable when they sleep). Short arm jokes are OK.

I have two short handled sharp shooters. I bought the one with the green handle but the beefier wood handled one was an unintentional gift from AT&T when the guy who buried our fiber cable in the yard left it behind. While watching The Curse of Oak Island Liane spotted one of the stars using the ring-handled Root Slayer shovel and wanted her own. When I looked up the price, I substituted the green handled sharp shooter but it didn't fool her. I bit the bullet and I have to admit it's perfect for digging holes in our root rich yard.

The old wood handled square spade and trenching shovel rusted badly enough that I had to cut off an inch of the edge. Turned out the shortened trenching blade is perfect for cleaning out 4x4 post holes. The red handled one is a perfect tool for sprinkler system repairs. The blue handled square shovel is my go-to when recycling gravel mulch (I have a couple of 1/4" hardware cloth sifting screens for that). The faded orange handled round point shovel is my go-to when digging up stumps and concrete debris. I've destroyed quite a few wooden handle round point shovels but this fiberglass handled one has survived my best attempts to destroy it (it bends but doesn't break).

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Monica, I have an embarrassingly large collection of shovels. I have also lived with a 5'3" redhead for more than 62 years so I never make short jokes (a person is vulnerable when they sleep). Short arm jokes are OK.

I have two short handled sharp shooters. I bought the one with the green handle but the beefier wood handled one was an unintentional gift from AT&T when the guy who buried our fiber cable in the yard left it behind. While watching The Curse of Oak Island Liane spotted one of the stars using the ring-handled Root Slayer shovel and wanted her own. When I looked up the price, I substituted the green handled sharp shooter but it didn't fool her. I bit the bullet and I have to admit it's perfect for digging holes in our root rich yard.

The old wood handled square spade and trenching shovel rusted badly enough that I had to cut off an inch of the edge. Turned out the shortened trenching blade is perfect for cleaning out 4x4 post holes. The red handled one is a perfect tool for sprinkler system repairs. The blue handled square shovel is my go-to when recycling gravel mulch (I have a couple of 1/4" hardware cloth sifting screens for that). The faded orange handled round point shovel is my go-to when digging up stumps and concrete debris. I've destroyed quite a few wooden handle round point shovels but this fiberglass handled one has survived my best attempts to destroy it (it bends but doesn't break).

Dang Bob, that is sn excellent assortment of shovels. I really dig each has their specialty, as any good tool have. Hah you see what I did there?

Beautiful work

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Last several work days I haven't taken many pics. The work has been a lot of small chores on the fence but necessary ones to move forward. I filled in all the new post holes and leveled out the soil. I hadn't filled in holes all the way up yet because I painted the posts in ground and the paint was curing. So that's done.

I installed the Bullet Fence brackets on the front right fence line. Used my story pole to get everything up. It's great referring to that instead of memory, or going back to the first corners to re-measure.

Along the north line I cut out a tree stump that was in the way of where the fence needed to run. A big kerf cut with the 6" hatchet and baby sledge on a crow bar was enough to take chunks out to ground level clearing the way.

I also started digging out the big tree stump that was just taken down at the front gate entrance. It is in the way of the entry fence line and it is exactly where I need to dig a brace post hole. So that is super fun. I plan to burn it out, but I'm exposing as much of the root system as I can to get a thorough burn. I've used this method one other time on the property before, and it was effective. But the digging took some work. This job I wish I had a tractor w a backhoe or mini-ex to dig out the stump.

I prepped and painted more pipe with my new Dewalt 416 grinder, I'm trying to get all the horizontal brace posts ready to install this weekend. I've got 6 needing to go in. Also plan on getting the single line post dug and installed. That's only an 8' pipe that needs to go 3' down.

The 20yd roll off arrived which means the old fence will all be brought down and thrown in there. I thought about keeping old tposts but I just don't want to keep old **** piled up. That kind of stuff ends up being stuff I have to mow around.

It seems like this fence project is dragging out. I'm so ready to get fence up already. And technically I can on the North line, it's all built. But somebody wants to prep and paint her pipe posts up there so that's why fence ain't up yet. And now that that somebody finally has a cordless grinder, she can get started

The whole reality is that this fence project is big and it will take a while. At this point there are 27 of 49 pipe posts dug and set in concrete, 4 of 20 horizontal braces installed, 47 of ??60? tposts driven - it's a lot of work to go around. I keep telling myself that it will take time. All that can be done is a little at a time.

Tomorrow I'll start picking up old fence in the utv from around the property and transporting it up to the roll off. After that more pipe prep/paint and maybe start the fire for the stump burn.

 

[Prospecter]

Wow! That's a lot of work and progress! I also tend to tossing that for which I do not see an immediate use for. I just don't like seeing a lot of "Stuff" around the place. It's interesting on someone else's place though! How do you manage a chainsaw? Just one handing the grinder suggests serious strength, but the chainsaw is super impressive!

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Wow! That's a lot of work and progress! I also tend to tossing that for which I do not see an immediate use for. I just don't like seeing a lot of "Stuff" around the place. It's interesting on someone else's place though! How do you manage a chainsaw? Just one handing the grinder suggests serious strength, but the chainsaw is super impressive!

Oh clutter drives me nuts, especially on the property. So much so that I'm still coming to terms with whoever determined the building layout of this place.

re chainsaw - very carefully? I will handle up to a 12" or 14" chainsaw, depending on the size, electric/battery/gas and the handle balance/layout. For the larger saws I have my boyfriend run those. I am stubborn, but I do have a limit on stupid No need to lop off a leg.

 

[Bob Heine]

re chainsaw - very carefully? I will handle up to a 12" or 14" chainsaw, depending on the size, electric/battery/gas and the handle balance/layout. For the larger saws I have my boyfriend run those. I am stubborn, but I do have a limit on stupid No need to lop off a leg.

Monica, I too am stubborn but my stupid limit exceeds yours and many others [i.e. boarding moving trains, eye poking while safety glasses rest on forehead and poking tools into light sockets with power connected]. In the late '90s, my chainsaw was an electric Remington 16". When I was a child of 60 in 2005, hurricanes Katrina and Wilma hit us. Katrina didn't hit us that hard but Wilma left us without power for a couple of weeks. Desperate to clean up all the downed trees and limbs, I bought a gas Poulan 8" pole chainsaw and a gas Poulan 20" chainsaw. That 20" saw scared me straight and I put it away in its case after that cleanup. FEMA came through after Wilma and reimbursed me for the chainsaw and a generator and the generator meant I wouldn't need to use that gasoline suicide machine again. A M18 Quik-Lok head with an extension and 10" chainsaw head has replaced the gas pole saw so I'm less likely to set myself on fire. The Quik-Lok edger attachement will be helpful cutting through roots when I'm trenching by hand.

In 2011, after a really long cold spell I had to cut up a tree trunk that exceeded 16" in diameter but well under a 16" radius. My hand truck could barely move the chunks even with 32psi in the tires. Pretty sure they made the sanitation truck's claw complain loudly when picking them up at the end of our driveway.

You introduced me to the Milwaukee Hatchet. I bought a slightly used M12 6" Hatchet and it's one of my two most used Milwaukee tools. The other one is the M12 pruner.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Bob, I giggled a bit about you being scared straight with the 20" chainsaw. Mainly because I can picture it standing in your shoes. There's that voice that says out loud, "this is stupid, you will die, just don't". That makes it a bit easier to move on from that task and be at peace with handling it differently lol

Dude I love my 6" Hatchet, I'm glad you do too. Mine has been a little tank. I finally purchased a new bar for it after what, 2 years of service and many chains later? That's pretty good. The original bar is showing significant signs of wear, it's slot has opened up, has some dings and such. Not worth repairing at all like a big saw I don't think. I think it certainly performed it's cost. Just slapping a new bar on. This little guy has cut some impressive pieces. It's my goal to buy the 8" Hatchet they have, if the price ever moves off of $279. It just does not want to drop from there. I'll jump if it gets under $200 but for as long as it's been listed at $279, don't know if they want to move it.

The battery pole saws I think is the better way to go than gas powered. I dislike running a weed eater on the grass, it is not appealing the idea of running one in the trees. The Dewalt 20V has done a great job here. And the reason Dewalt is here vs Milwalkee is Dewalt was the first one we ran across when we needed to grab one. I'm glad you like your M18. I might look at them closer next time I see one. I have the M18 platform too but they are rarely used. That drill/driver combo is the backup set. Probably be good to throw them in service to keep the batteries cycling. Why not another tool?

Just looking at those rounds makes me tired. I'll go get the log splitter and set it up vertically...

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Came in to cool off and get lunch. Man temps are so high.

Been doing tasks here and there the past week to keep making progress on the fence. Yesterday the last of the old woven fence was collected off the North line. About half the tposts were pulled, the other half are going to stand until they can get pulled at a leisurely pace. Not going to kill myself to get those out while the roll-off is here.

Yesterday I prepped and primered two line posts and the north front corner posts. This morning I painted those five and another four posts for the front fence line. Right now, that's my life on the fence project. Sanding, primering and painting. I feel like the GJ member who posted the other day about painting LP siding his for place. I felt his pain as I read his post. It's like Ground Hog Day. You start questioning yourself if it will ever end

This afternoon I'm going to hopefully prep and primer another handful of North line posts. I'm gonna pick the ones in the shade. The faster I get those painted, the faster I can stretch fence and be done with it. Maybe in the next two weeks I can have it up??...between work and life and days off...we will see.

I'm excited, today a treated myself to an order of new Dewalt Powerstack batteries. Got a 1.7ah and a 5ah pkg. I wanted the small one for my drill and driver use as those two original batteries are getting up there in age. And the big one for the new angle grinder. The 4ah I'm using are fine as far as power goes. Just looking for a third to throw in the rotation to fill the gap while they charge, and I can stay working a little longer, and curious the difference in run time. I realize the 6ah battery is probably better for the longer run time, but I wasn't willing to sacrifice the weight and fatigue for it. Then that cancels out the run time advantage if I'm tired and have to stop anyway.

Well, better get back to work. The post won't sand themselves.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Ok got some pictures this time. Feel like I've been slacking on them.

But first, the North line painting post update - all the North line posts have been primed and painted. Yeehaw, finally. But wait, still gotta do the cross braces at each end...but the verticals posts are done. So, one more step of painting cross braces and I can finally stretch the wire on that line, the longest, took foreverest first fence line.


Next up, working on burning out this big stump in the way at the front entrance. Trying to burn it out. Here's the 1wk progress. Oak is tough man. And have some roots to deal with. Hard to burn them if they are encased in dirt. So it been a little 'burn dig burn dig' rinse repeat. An excavator or mini ex would be faster but...$$ and a process right now I don't have my schedule set to do, so I do this.




Next up, got the cross braces in on the SE corner. This was nice to get this buttoned up. Closes off the property a little more, marks to the passerbys 'here's the fence'.




On the same line, the lone line post was dug and installed. As you can see, the gate end still needs it's cross braces installed. It would have been done this weekend, but that one has a screw up that now has to be accounted for. That'll take a minute but it'll get done. One it is, that line is ready for the fence to be stretched. Very excited to be that close on this one as well.




Speaking saying to the passersby 'here's the fence', got the cross braces installed on the North corner. I've been wanting to close this since the project was started. I've had several issues due to this corner being open. I'm happy it is a step closer to being closed in. As you can see, the original horizontal braces need to be prepped, primed and painted. I've been putting those off, sorta, not like I haven't been prepping and painting other fence posts. But these horizontals will hurt me - I can already feel my hand, wrist and elbow ache. I'm just trying to get up the head of steam. And it'll probably be in the next week or so. Tylenol and ice packs here I come. But once these and the other two braces at the other end are done, fence can be stretched. It's been a LONG time coming.






Overall, good to SEE progress up. Feels like for so long I've been stuck doing all the necessary steps that take time, and effort, but there's not a lot displayed to show for it. It's refreshing to see my work after so much effort. Between modifying work hours due to the brutally hot weather, to pushing through on fence work instead of just doing fun stuff or other extra-curricular projects, I'm ready to be done with this thing. There's still a lot of work due, more gate work, front entry work and the entire south fenceline that hasn't even been touched. But for major steps completed, two of the five pieces are close.