Camper wiring

[theoldwizard1]

I am wiring a camper. It will have 2 power source. 120VAC from "shore power" OR 120VAC from an inverter.

Can I simple connect both neutrals together and then to the load and only switch the "hot" or do I need to switch the neutrals also ? (SPDT vs DPDT)

 

[theoldwizard1]

120VAC, 3 pole, double throw (3PDT)

OR

Is there away that you can "gang" together, 3 SPDT 120VAC switches ?

 

[whateg01]

Like a "normal" light switch? Toggle and rocker switches do exist like that. I haven't seen something like a light switch like that but you could wire it to a contactor

 

[wssix99]

I would also use a contactor for this, but... please share details of your project. I'm intrigued.

 

[The Cobbler]

what is the amperage ? assuming this relates to your camper van question in another thread.

 

[DGersic]

120VAC, 3 pole, double throw (3PDT)

OR

Is there away that you can "gang" together, 3 SPDT 120VAC switches ?

Depending on what you’re trying to do, yes.

https://www.mouser.com/en/ProductDetail/Electroswitch/A323S1YZQ?qs=Cey2prYh4C%2FheeRBqXEnrw%3D%3D

 

[TurnipTruck]

Would one of these work?

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Toggle switch style. (Just one example).

Whoops, we couldn't find that.

 

[cgrutt]

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/c-k/7301SYZQE/7080?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20243136172&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLlh8qokGP2OX2TllMeo70F18D&gclid=CjwKCAjwyOzSBhBTEiwAmxvJ-qqZtwEU--k5yNhCzBXod7DqwfhED3I3BfGSSgUsL_JyKjXoBrhzdhoC4LsQAvD_BwE

 

[rlitman]

That depends on whether or not the inverter has a neutral to ground bond.

 

[MovingAlong]

Yes.

Using your description, "120VAC, 3 pole, double throw (3PDT)", Google returns many options.

Still a few other unknown requirements needed to make a specific recommendation, but they are out there. And if you don't care for the switch styles available, look into relays.

 

[dave*99]

How about an RV transfer switch?

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=automatic+transfer+switch

 

[theoldwizard1]

How about an RV transfer switch?

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=automatic+transfer+switch

Yes, but I don't wat to spend that kind of money ! (Yes, I am cheap !)

 

[PCustoms]

How about an RV transfer switch?

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=automatic+transfer+switch

It's been a few years, but I always remembered the inverter handled all this?

 

[PCustoms]

For this?

Camper wiring

I am wiring a camper. It will have 2 power source. 120VAC from "shore power" OR 120VAC from an inverter. Can I simple connect both neutrals together and then to the load and only switch the "hot" or do I need to switch the neutrals also ? (SPDT vs DPDT)

www.garagejournal.com

 

[theoldwizard1]

That depends on whether or not the inverter has a neutral to ground bond.

NO BOND ! (that would be bad )

 

[theoldwizard1]

It's been a few years, but I always remembered the inverter handled all this?

It depends on the model of inverter. Some do.

 

[theoldwizard1]

For this?

Camper wiring

I am wiring a camper. It will have 2 power source. 120VAC from "shore power" OR 120VAC from an inverter. Can I simple connect both neutrals together and then to the load and only switch the "hot" or do I need to switch the neutrals also ? (SPDT vs DPDT)

www.garagejournal.com

Yes !

I can find DPDT (Leviton 1288)

• Positive switching action with center-off position
• Large silver cadmium-oxide contacts for long life prevent sticking, welding and excessive pitting
• Clamp-type terminals accept up to #10 CU wire
• Full rated 30A current capacity on fluorescent, tungsten and resistive loads; motor load capacity up to 80% switch current rating

But depending on the answer to the other question, I may need a 3rd pole.

 

[PCustoms]

Yes !

I can find DPDT (Leviton 1288)

• Positive switching action with center-off position
• Large silver cadmium-oxide contacts for long life prevent sticking, welding and excessive pitting
• Clamp-type terminals accept up to #10 CU wire
• Full rated 30A current capacity on fluorescent, tungsten and resistive loads; motor load capacity up to 80% switch current rating

But depending on the answer to the other question, I may need a 3rd pole.

What inverter do you have?

 

[theoldwizard1]

What inverter do you have?

WZRELB 3000W

I need a separate leg to turn on the charger.

If I need to switch both the hots and neutrals from the inverter and the shore power then I think I will just mount 3 SPDT in a box and put a gang bar across it.

 

[PCustoms]

WZRELB 3000W

I need a separate leg to turn on the charger.

If I need to switch both the hots and neutrals from the inverter and the shore power then I think I will just mount 3 SPDT in a box and put a gang bar across it.

Edit: was clearly not awake earlier

 

[larry_g]

One other detail you may need to specify is a 'make before break' or 'break before make'. I'm familiar with the AB 800T line of switches but they are low power. They are a modular switch so you can stack on contact sets to make up however many poles you need. With a bit of looking I'm sure that you could find something similar that has the power ratings you need.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[jlv03]

How are you connected to the inverter? If plugged in, just unplug from the inverter and plug into shore power.

Or - use shore power to charge the batteries and keep the inverter going.

DPDT contactors are also available.

 

[PCustoms]

DPDT contactors are also available.

Does this exist ?

120VAC, 3 pole, double throw (3PDT) OR Is there away that you can "gang" together, 3 SPDT 120VAC switches ?

www.garagejournal.com

Threads should probably be combined...

 

[whateg01]

WZRELB 3000W

I need a separate leg to turn on the charger.

If I need to switch both the hots and neutrals from the inverter and the shore power then I think I will just mount 3 SPDT in a box and put a gang bar across it.

That would have been good info to put in the op. Changes the options a lot. So are you stuck on that style of switch? Because I don't think you're going to find what you are after in that style of switch. If you aren't stuck on that, lots of workable options have been suggested.

 

[theoldwizard1]

So are you stuck on that style of switch?

I NEVER SAID I WAS !

120VAC 30A. Preferably "break before make" and/or ON-OFF-ON. Something that you can connect to 10AWG wire to.

 

[whateg01]

120VAC, 3 pole, double throw (3PDT)

OR

Is there away that you can "gang" together, 3 SPDT 120VAC switches ?

Like a "normal" light switch?

I can find DPDT (Leviton 1288)

Well up until the pic of a light switch you really didn't answer that question.

Given the application, finally guessed by pcustoms, I would recommend a barrel switch. It'll handle the current. It's a deliberate action to switch one way or the other. You can get as many poles as you want.

If I need to switch both the hots and neutrals from the inverter and the shore power then I think I will just mount 3 SPDT in a box and put a gang bar across it.

If you are switching between shore power and an inverter, then break before make isn't really a "preferred" feature. It should be mandatory.

 

[theoldwizard1]

So are you stuck on that style of switch?

I would take a "safety switch" (knife blade contacts inside of a spark proof enclosure) but SPDT, DPDT and 3PDT do not exist !

 

[PCustoms]

As suggested in the other thread:

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Transfer-Switch/PowerMax/PM69FR.html

You're going to spend $50+ by the time you get all the bits and pieces to cobble something together

 

[mm08822]

Why not just buy 10-3 SJ or SO cord and put a TT-30P on the end and TT-30Rs on each source?

You manually switch between either source by unplugging/plugging in to desired source. That's exactly how George Washington did it back in the day.

 

[whateg01]

Why not just buy 10-3 SJ or SO cord and put a TT-30P on the end and TT-30Rs on each source?

You manually switch between either source by unplugging/plugging in to desired source. That's exactly how George Washington did it back in the day.

George Washington probably had roll up Windows and no power steering and no air conditioning and a manual transmission and a hand crank to start!

 

[mm08822]

George Washington probably had roll up Windows and no power steering and no air conditioning and a manual transmission and a hand crank to start!

What about the lantern, port/starboard marker lights and the bilge pump? Gotcha!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

That depends on whether or not the inverter has a neutral to ground bond.

this is the key....

the panel should not have a neutral bond since shore power connects to a system that already has the bond but the inverter should since its a separate source and there needs to be a neutral bond even if just getting power from the inverter

 

[mm08822]

this is the key....

the panel should not have a neutral bond since shore power connects to a system that already has the bond but the inverter should since its a separate source and there needs to be a neutral bond even if just getting power from the inverter

And of course the Amazon website is silent on this detail......but plenty of purdy pichas.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

NO BOND ! (that would be bad )

if your camper is only getting power from the inverter/batteries, you most definitely need a bonded neutral otherwise the breakers in the 120v panel will NOT trip when there is a ground fault.

so actually its bad that you DONT have a bond.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

It depends on the model of inverter. Some do.

well we really need to know how your camper is setup.

a wiring diagram would help

how does the inverter get power to charge the batteries?

is the 120v panel bonded? it shouldnt be.

your question really cant be answered until we have an answer on how the inverter is wired into the system

 

[wyliesdiesels]

WZRELB 3000W

I need a separate leg to turn on the charger.

If I need to switch both the hots and neutrals from the inverter and the shore power then I think I will just mount 3 SPDT in a box and put a gang bar across it.

huh? separate leg from what?

so you have a separate inverter and separate charger?

we really need more info here

 

[jblnut]

Why switch it at all ? I built a fish house 20yrs ago that had a 120v RV plug outside for shore power that went into a cabinet in the fish house and ended in an outlet. My inverter also had a plug in. You may see where I’m going with this. I wired all the 110v stuff in the fish house to a 120v male plug and I’d manually plug it into the shore power outlet or the inverter outlet. Neither system touched the other like any kind of a switched system and it was stupid simple (like me) so there way literally no way to screw it up if you’re never seen it before.

Not that long ago I got tired of it and put in a transfer switch. It was $75 if I remember correctly. Not bad in my book and it’s even easier than having two outlets and one cord.

 

[theoldwizard1]

so you have a separate inverter and separate charger?

we really need more info here

I am trying !

Yes. Separate inverter. Separate charger. Charger is not part of the original question. (Although I do know many inverters have built-in chargers. This one does not)

I am wiring a camper. It will have 2 power source. 120VAC from "shore power" OR 120VAC from an inverter.

Can I simple connect both neutrals together and feed that to the load and only switch the "hot" or do I need to switch the neutrals (from the inverter and the shore power) also ?

Do I need an SPDT switch or a DPDT switch ?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

how does the inverter get 120v power?