Can a guy start welding for under $400?

[SteveL]

It has been 30+ years since I've done any welding but really want to start and have a limited budget. Thinking a 110v mig would be the most versital but open to other options. Am I dreaming, thinking that I can get what I need for basic needs for around $400 or less? Will mostly be doing square tubing, sheet &/or bar up to maybe 3/16". Nothing critical like chassis work.

What would be best for a total noobie?

 

[goodysgotacuda]

I have a 220v Harbor Freight 170a mig that I use, it's $170 on sale and I burn just about anything I want with it. I use a Kobalt hood, which isn't too bad for $100, by the time you get a bottle, gloves, decent wire, you'd be around $400.

 

[Dustin Echoes]

I agree with 'cuda up there. Get the biggest you can for the money, you can always turn it down, but you can't turn a smaller one up!

 

[chris fresh]

yes,i bought my first blue point welder from a pawn shop for 80 bucks,110 machine,H.F shield and gloves for 60.and then picked up a bottle of 75/25 from my local supplier for (i think) 28 bucks at the time.was welding within hours.deals are out there,especially now with craigslist and ebay.

 

[03protege]

$400 is doable. If not in a hurry I would watch Craigslist and Pawns. If you would rather buy new check out the Hobart Handlers.

I started learning on a Harbor Freight $100 welder and if you are unsure about liking welding I have no problem recommending that to anyone. With that said I stepped up to a Miller 140 I bought used and it is x100000000000000 better. Welding is SO much easier with a quality machine.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Go with a 240V rig.

 

[Mr.N]

$400 is doable. If not in a hurry I would watch Craigslist and Pawns.

x2!

Right now people need money for Christmas presents
In a few months people will need money to pay taxes
Both good times to watch for used.

 

[1967lemans]

Go with a 240V rig.

^^Agreed.
You may find that you will "outgrow" a smaller rig. With that said. Welders do pop up on CL and in pawn shops quite often. You could also check out Northern Tool or Eastwood. That should get you started up for the budget you mentioned.

 

[GIJoe4500]

You are right on the verge of spending enough for a quality machine. Can get a lincoln 180 in great used condition for about $500. Run flux core wire, a $15 non-auto dark helmet, and some $12 forney gloves. That will get ya started with a great machine. You can upgrade to an autodark helmet, fancy gloves, and a gas setup later on.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Crusty Nut]

Why not just get a OXY-ACE set up? Then you can weld, cut, braze, heat, and solder ...all for 400 or less if you buy used.

 

[sparky7]

i would go with the hobart handler 180 tractor supply had it on sale for 469 when i bought mine a few months ago

 

[AndyA]

Why not just get a OXY-ACE set up? Then you can weld, cut, braze, heat, and solder ...all for 400 or less is you buy used.

I agree. The O/A setup will be tons more flexible. The problem there is skill! It'll take longer to get proficient welding with the O/A setup than a mig.

I'd avoid the 110v migs unless you're just doing yard art. Those are going to top out around 1/8" thickness (regardless what the marketing lies say).

I haven't used many of the chinese import machines, but everything I've heard and the few I've used have been junk. The duty cycle is low. The components are over stressed. The feed mechanism isn't quality. I'd say you'll pay more in headaches than you'll save in dollars. Also if you're just learning, how do you know if your bad results are from the machine or the operator?

$400 is going to be tight.

You can buy a new victor O/A setup for $200-$250. Then you'll need to buy bottles. I would try to buy the largest bottles you can. Figure about $1 per cubic foot for the larger bottles, and more per cubic foot for smaller. Be aware of the max withdraw rates on smaller acetylene bottles. The acetylene is dissolved in acetone and can fizz up like a soda and puke acetone out. You have to draw slow enough so this doesn't happen. The bigger the bottle, the fast you can draw. This will limit you to smaller tips and less heat on small bottles. You might be able to find bottles on craigslist or garage sales. Check with your welding supply to see if they'll exchange random bottles before you buy any. Don't buy new bottles. You typically won't have your bottle refilled, you'll just exchange for a full bottle of the same size. First time you exchange, your new bottle goes away.

$400 could probably get you a nice used stick machine. IMHO, this is the workhorse of welding. It's not a stallion. Look for a machine that's DC and at least 200 amps. You'll typically be using the machine at 100 to 130 amps. Look at the duty cycle at that amperage and try to get at least 60%. You normally won't outrun 60% and you won't have to constantly be worrying about hurting the machine. A machine with an overtemp cutout is even better. You'll need good electrical power to feed it. 220 volts and at least 50 amps. Installing the electrical may cost at much as the welder if you don't have electrican friends or can't do it yourself. I'd say stick requires more skill than mig, but less than O/A welding.

$400 probably isn't going to get you a nice mig machine. If I were buying new and wanted to keep the price down, I'd probably get a millermatic 211. These cost around $1000 (plus $200 for a bottle). Yes there are smaller machines and import machines that are cheaper, but you do get what you pay for. With name brand you can expect it to just work. I perfer miller, but I'd say lincoln and esab are also good machines. A used machine is a way to save some money. I still don't think $400 is going to be enough unless you catch a smoking deal. I've upgraded my machine and I'm selling my millermatic 210 with cart and 250cf bottle for $1000. Again there are smaller machines, but you're just limited what work you can do. On the other hand, any welder is better than no welder, so you'll have to decide what your finances allow. I'd recommend saving and buying a machine that will do everything you want, and work for years to come. A good sized mig machine is also going to need good electrical service, 220V@50amps or better.

 

[BWS]

Yup,give me a really nice torch and a handful of tig rod.....or a buzzbox and some fluxcore migwire.

Save your money and get a quality machine,you'll be way happier....goodluck.

 

[camjeep3]

O/A is pretty dangerous, especially if you are a beginner and do not know what you are doing. mess up and you can go boom easily. stick welders come up for 100-200 on Clist all the time and would be a good machine to start with. Im not sure how much welding you have done in the past but it is harder than mig. a 110 mig is easy to start out on and can be had used for 300. run flux, buy a helmet and gloves and a chipping hammer. it can be done for 400.

 

[Alchymist]

O/A is pretty dangerous, especially if you are a beginner and do not know what you are doing. mess up and you can go boom easily. stick welders come up for 100-200 on Clist all the time and would be a good machine to start with. Im not sure how much welding you have done in the past but it is harder than mig. a 110 mig is easy to start out on and can be had used for 300. run flux, buy a helmet and gloves and a chipping hammer. it can be done for 400.

With care, O/A is not dangerous. If you can walk and chew gum at the same time as well as read, O/A is quite safe. If you are of a careless nature or don't want to follow instructions, that's a different story.

 

[camjeep3]

With care, O/A is not dangerous. If you can walk and chew gum at the same time as well as read, O/A is quite safe. If you are of a careless nature or don't want to follow instructions, that's a different story.

Yes, with care AND proper instruction. I do not know if the OP has ever dealt with O/A before or not. but for someone who has never operated one to go out and start messing around, things could get ugly. fast, careless person or not. I still think it is a great tool to have, and I do use it a lot.

 

[SteveL]

Should give a little background on my welding experience. Went to school to be an engineer but quickly found out that I was more of a hands on guy than behind a desk. Enrolled in every shop related class that I could and learned how to weld with O/A and stick. Did a little mig but not a lot. Very handy and should not have any problem picking up any of the techniques mentioned. Wife is a gold/silver smith and uses natural gas & oxygen all the time so I have dabbled with that set up a little.

Primary reason for the budget limit of $400 is that I have to allow for buying raw materials. No point of having any welding equipment if you can't afford to buy some metal to weld.

Really would like to go with a mig so I will likely go used if I can find something decent. Putting in a 220v line is also not a problem as I have already done that before for the compressor. Thanks for all the tips so far and please keep them coming.

 

[kazlx]

I would definitely buy something used. It would probably be the best way to get everything you need in one shot. 110V is fine. It is more than enough to build misc stuff out of tube. Of course a 220 machine is nicer, but I wouldn't worry about it. You can start burning some wire and get some practice. Find a decent deal and you should be able to sell for what you pay for it.

 

[jtbinvalrico]

Eastwood 135.....mine runs reliably. Simply sell and upgrade one day for a bigger one.

 

[bullnerd]

I second the Hobarts form tractor supply.Even the 110 HH140 is a very capable little welder.I know a guy that fabs complete offroad racecars with one.

 

[pfarber]

Yes, with care AND proper instruction. I do not know if the OP has ever dealt with O/A before or not. but for someone who has never operated one to go out and start messing around, things could get ugly. fast, careless person or not. I still think it is a great tool to have, and I do use it a lot.

I learned to oxy weld and cut on youtube video and by just doing it.

Yeah, it can kill you, but getting electrocuted by MIG does not seem like much more fun.

My Lincoln MiG sits most of the time unless its patch panel on body work time.

 

[MoonRise]

120 GMAW machine can usually go to about maybe 14-16 gauge steel sheet. That's it.

Some 0.035 FCAW wire and those little 120V machines can go to maybe 1/4 inch thick steel.

The 180-class 240V machines can usually get to about 10-12 gauge GMAW (about 1/8 inch thick). FCAW, they can go to 1/4 inch or maybe 5/16. Thicker than that you really need a bigger machine or to break out the SMAW (aka stick) machine.

$400 budget? That's the tough part. You are then looking at used machines and/or 'import' machines.

And I agree that 'starting out' with a 'cheap' machine can be frustrating, as you aren't sure if any problems are from you or from the machine.

You'll absolutely need some welding gloves. That's maybe $10-$20 per pair or so.

And a helmet/shield. The HF low-end autodark goes for about $40 on sale, seems to work OK.

Grinder (or 6 ). Some wire wheels to go in the grinder. Some grinding wheels, and some flap disks.

Shielding gas (cylinder + refills) for GMAW ( usually C25).

Electrode wire. Solid and/or some FCAW for the 'thicker' stuff.

Some metal clamps. C-clamps, bar clamps, F-clamps, welding magnets, etc.

Some way to cut the metal. Hacksaw, jigsaw, sawzall, zip-disk in the grinder, plasma .

The $400 budget is tight, especially if you need to get a bunch of all the 'other' stuff.

The Hobart wire-feed machines have a pretty good rep, good machines.

Lincoln, Miller, ESAB as well.

Something to think about. Consumables. By me, if I need to get some 'standard' contact tips or a nozzle, I can get the small Lincoln stuff at Lowes or HomeDepot or Walmart if need be. Don't have to go to the LWS or order something and wait a week.

For wire, some of the really 'small' machines can only take the little 4" diameter wire spools (1-2 lbs of wire). The cost/lb of the wire there can be 2x of the same wire on a bigger 8" spool (10-12 lbs of wire). The bigger industrial-type machines can usually take the big-boy 12" spools (33 or 44 lb of wire) which costs much less per pound than the 'little' spools (but you are buying 33 or 44 lbs of wire instead of 2 lbs ).

 

[kazlx]

You can easily do 1/8" with gmaw (11 gauge) with 110V...

 

[Ben Iv]

Keep an eye out. I got my miller 172 with wire, regulator and a 50' 220v cord for 300 bucks win great shape.

 

[APEowner]

I'm also going to recommend that you look at an O/A setup if you're starting to tool up for metal working. I have O/A, MIG and TIG. Both the MIG and TIG machines are capable of stick welding as well. I still grab the O/A on a regular basis either because it's quicker to setup, I'm doing something artistic that looks better with a gas weld, I'm brazing not welding or I'm welding something together that "shouldn't" weld together (like stainless steel exhaust pipe to mild steel exhaust pipe). It's just more versatile than any of the other machines.

 

[jonzer12]

I got my Lincoln 180T mig welder brand new off ebay for $420. It took me about a month of checking every day to score one that cheap. You are kidding yourself if you think you will never need to weld anything heavier than 1/8 or 3/16. Get a half decent 220amp machine and will get far better value for your money as you won't out grow it in 6 months and you won't have to deal with the terrible duty cycle of the smaller machines. My little 180 welds 1/4 on solid wire no issue at all.

 

[SteveL]

I really should be more thorough when I post a question. I have lots of clamps, grinders, flap wheels, wire brushes, etc., etc. so I should only need a helmet, gloves and a welder to get started. Kind of thinking about looking for a used O/A set up AND a used tomb stone stick. Should be able to get both along with a helmet & gloves within my budget and having both would cover a wider range of materials and thicknesses. Anyone disagree?

If I end up enjoying the process enough, I can start saving for a decent mig. Also forgot to mention that I plan on taking some classes so I don't blow up the house. My wife has been using torches for years and will surely keep me on a short leash for a year or so.

 

[kazlx]

Look on CL, buy a used Lincoln or Miller mig and start welding. If you like it, you can always sell and recoup most if not all of your cash.

 

[napalmv8]

I dont know if they are present in USA, but in our region there are a lot of cheap invertor based MIG welding machines from china
The average cost is about 300-400$. Output rating is about 200-240Amps.
Such welders are not bad even for professional use.

 

[AndyA]

If you want to settle for an AC only stick welder, you should be able to pick up a used Lincoln AC225 for $100 (maybe less). Brand new ones are less than $300.
I started out on one of these. They're nearly indestructable machines. On a used one check that the switch operates smoothly. Even if it's a little tight, it may be ok if the handle hasn't been stripped and the contacts aren't burned up.
I didn't recommend one earlier because I haven't used mine in years. As soon as you have a DC machine, you'll rarely use the AC. Good news is you can probably buy a used one and sell it for nearly the same price when you want to upgrade.
The AC only is going to limit your rod selection a little. Most common would be 6011 and 7018AC.

 

[sberry]

Primary reason for the budget limit of $400 is that I have to allow for buying raw materials. No point of having any welding equipment if you can't afford to buy some metal to weld.

A primary use for this is the salvage of used materials, so much of the world is made of sheet metal anymore, easy to weld with wire and a good 200A class 240 machine will do light structural work as well, I can manage about 95% of wehat I do with one, make it a habit and hobby to score steel, its rare I actually buy new, a little stock in flats, angles especially where there is lots of weld/fit, dont have to clean paint at every joint. I stay away from bed frames most of the time but some of it could be used, lots of sheet from appliances, jackets. skins. Lots of pre-bent pre painted panel. I stepped in to a ditch the other day to do something ans tep right on a chunk of 3x3 angle about 7 ft long with a couple busted tacks on it, I bet a county truck, someone forgot to weld it in, ha

Some good general advice ere, I say skip the thought of raw materials, educated man that you are should recognize a good bet, 2 or 3 hundred more and you are on your way with a good 240 190+ class compact new in box.

There are lots of used units for sale,,, some places not so great deals on this class of machine for one big reason,,,, people that buy them use them, keep them a long time. You can see the relationship between the machine and this vise bench, also the steel rack. It takes a gread deal of sport out of building if you got to cough up raw stock at every project, too slow and too expensive. For the diy crowd its salvage, fix, modify, this machine provides welds for cents per foot which goes a long ways on light material, no point in adding insult to the labor by running off to the steel yard every hour or so.

 

[sberry]

If I end up enjoying the process enough, I can start saving for a decent mig.

It can be about enjoyment but if you are already a tool guy skip the screwin around and get a decent mig right off the bat, if gives you a world absolutely impossible without it, they invent this class of tool with you in mind as a poster child case. A Hobart 190, something like that, even if you get other machines this is not to be traded, its a real workhorse in a small shop and well up to the task.

Considering the cost of many things today this can pay for itself in short order even at home hobby level. Its well worth the credit card interest if thats what it takes, also this is not like the expensive hand tool vs import debate,,, they are coming fast but this machine works significantly better than a clone, several times as good as any 120 flux feeder and is twice the machine as a 120 unit at only 25% more money. Good pot odds and as liquid as any tool there is on the used market.

Anothe thing is sale at box store on the Lincoln 180, these little machines give a world class arc, there is always a place for bigger units but for this kind of work they don't make anything better.

 

[sberry]

If you want to settle for an AC only stick welder, you should be able to pick up a used Lincoln AC225 for $100 (maybe less). Brand new ones are less than $300.
I started out on one of these. They're nearly indestructable machines. On a used one check that the switch operates smoothly. Even if it's a little tight, it may be ok if the handle hasn't been stripped and the contacts aren't burned up.
I didn't recommend one earlier because I haven't used mine in years. As soon as you have a DC machine, you'll rarely use the AC. Good news is you can probably buy a used one and sell it for nearly the same price when you want to upgrade.
The AC only is going to limit your rod selection a little. Most common would be 6011 and 7018AC.

This is highly accurate, now and over a bit of time. A guy can bail himself out with this, if my local market allowed would reach for a dc right away just cause I have no interest in buy/sell trade, I want to use it. In the end it gathers dust in most places, once a guy uses a 200A mig its all over and he kicks himself for not getting one way earlier even if he has half a garage full of other machines.

I use the feeder about 9 to one and could do another 8% of that with it, I have all the processes and work on equipment as well as being a trade level welder, my neighbor who is also hasnt been by in 10 yrs to weld up since he got a little MM.

They will run on 12 but I like to home them with a 10/30 circuit, they are still small even for 240 so I help them all they can get, they work well with long runs and cords. I like 10, it runs these like its sitting at the panel, you wouldnt notice the difference between 12 but when making cords it makes for use with a class up also. Can run buzzers, 50A plasmas, most bigger feeders.

My highest use is the little red one followed by the DC buzzer, then a 250 class mig, then HH210 with spool gun and last the TIG. Last resort, it aint a hobby and its slow and expensive. I try to run a few sticks to keep the rust out on occasion, these are the shop machines, portables are extra.

The stick and the plasma and the tig for that matter have a common grounding point including the benchesand booth remote cables for ground and the little stick has 2 stinger whips, one that reaches benches and the welding booth generally and another that reaches out on to the shop floor and out the door.

 

[sberry]

I think a guy might see a jumper ground on the corner of the bench to reach project. If you blow the last pic up can see a quick connect on the ground, makes all the leads interchangable.

 

[sberry]

I got my Lincoln 180T mig welder brand new off ebay for $420. It took me about a month of checking every day to score one that cheap. You are kidding yourself if you think you will never need to weld anything heavier than 1/8 or 3/16. Get a half decent 220amp machine and will get far better value for your money as you won't out grow it in 6 months and you won't have to deal with the terrible duty cycle of the smaller machines. My little 180 welds 1/4 on solid wire no issue at all.

Right on the money. OA has its place but the small feeder has almost made it obsolete for light steel welding in a practical sense, so much cheaper and faster.

 

[geologist]

I paid under $100 for my Lincoln Pro-Core 100. Bought a Hobart mask for $20, so it's easily do-able.

 

[usafmora]

I think a guy might see a jumper ground on the corner of the bench to reach project. If you blow the last pic up can see a quick connect on the ground, makes all the leads interchangable.

If I could spend even a day in your shop Id be a happy man.

 

[dieselman321]

I am a big fan of finding a used rig on craigslist. Lincoln ARCS come up fairly often for cheap.

 

[silentpoet]

My used lincoln weldpak was 200 or so with tax at a local pawn shop. I see the old lincoln tombstones on craigslist for sometimes as low as 100 dollars if you want to do thicker stuff and have the 220 outlet for it. Say another 50-100 in safety gear and you can start welding.

 

[theknurl]

sberry gave the best advice......

buy used, test before buying, take an experienced welder with you,
yesterday they were 98 Lincoln welders on CL in LA.....
you may have to go over $400

how about a clean SP-200 complete with #2 Tweco gun and every thing, including a 50' cord $800
there was a 300/300 TIG machine with everything including stick cables, pedal, regulator but no bottle for $650

the SP-200 is light industrial, the 300/300 was the industry standard for 40 years
you will NEVER wear them out
my 300/300 is 36 years old and I ran it 8/5 for years, so far it used 1 O-ring in the water valve

if you get a MIG machine make sure it has the 'stitch/spot' timer.....for thin sheet

you buy a TIG machine.....make sure the torch is water cooled a 200 Amp torch is plenty.....you won't want to hold much more than that

you don't need a water cooler, the Bernards are obnoxiously noisy... i ran for years with a fish pond pump in a 5gal bucket, put some antifreeze in it

now on city water, it waters the flowers

automatic helmets are great......if you're always at the same power setting and distance......
wait 'til you get older.....my #7 lens has a 3 diopter magnifier in it, my #10 a 1.5
i use the gold lenses they give you truer color
i go overhead or into the higher ranges, i put the leather on......got a left asbestos gauntlet glove that will take the direct flame from a cutting torch......and smile

i've been welding for 57 years
buy the best(biggest) machine you can afford...stay away from machines with digital controls......stay analog, the old farts designed and built them to last

and before some yuppie ***** gets his ******* in a wad......

have you ever heard of an old black, rotary dial, Western Electric phone not working??????

i rest my case