Can a shade tree mechanic have TOO MANY SOCKETS ?!!

[sberry]

agree with OP. I work on passenger cars and really only need a few of the smaller 1/2 guys. Would have been smarter to just buy some singletons.

Not so if it was an economy generic set.

 

[PelicanPines]

agree with OP. I work on passenger cars and really only need a few of the smaller 1/2 guys. Would have been smarter to just buy some singletons.

With singletons... you have "damn it" moments... when you realize that new fastener you are trying to remove is a ghost in your socket collection. I don't like Damn It moments.

I rather have the tools I need than need a tool I don't have.

 

[derosa]

Saw this about bicycles, probably works the same for tools but the right number is
C+1 where C=current number but no more then D-1 where D is the number at which the wife divorces you over it. Since my wife just approved a couple new tool purchases and a new bicycle is showing up on mon with her blessing I'm still happily at C+1

 

[RVDan]

I started trying to count how many sockets I have. I gave up and I’m kind of astounded at how many I have. I estimate close to a thousand if I count my work van as well.

 

[marineman]

All the guys counting have peaked my curiosity I'm going to count mine tomorrow, what counts as a socket though? Are you guys counting crows feet and hex or torx sockets? Basically anything that uses a square drive on a ratchet?

 

[JR 42]

I've been thrilled to have 1/2" chrome sockets, breaker, ratchet for sticky old exhaust hardware, rusted farm implements, suspension, etc - the 3/8" breaker flexed a lot more than I was happy with, and I don't have any impact tools that don't run on hammer blows.

I understand where the wizard is coming from, but I feel compelled to own all the sockets. I've got several gaps in the 8-point accumulation, need a couple more drag link sizes, some big metric hex stuff, a few more /32's, and 1/2" deep everything... I'm sure when I've looked at it all gathering dust for decades, I'll feel differently. My hope is I'll be doing enough random monkeying around that everything will get used, but time will tell... like the cliche, I'd rather have it.

 

[Tallpilot]

I've been thrilled to have 1/2" chrome sockets, breaker, ratchet for sticky old exhaust hardware, rusted farm implements, suspension, etc - the 3/8" breaker flexed a lot more than I was happy with, and I don't have any impact tools that don't run on hammer blows.

I understand where the wizard is coming from, but I feel compelled to own all the sockets. I've got several gaps in the 8-point accumulation, need a couple more drag link sizes, some big metric hex stuff, a few more /32's, and 1/2" deep everything... I'm sure when I've looked at it all gathering dust for decades, I'll feel differently. My hope is I'll be doing enough random monkeying around that everything will get used, but time will tell... like the cliche, I'd rather have it.

Get a really nice tool cabinet. It will prevent the dust gathering.

 

[logical]

Clearly you need a wider box or a second box so everybody can stay in the top.

 

[gdudik]

If shadetree guys don’t need 1/2” then I guess I’ve officially graduated from shadetree status! But that begs the question, what comes after shadetree? Journeyman hack mechanic?

Seriously, I don’t know where I’d be without 1/2” drive. Head bolts, suspension, steering, brakes, etc.

I’d give up 3/8” and just work with 1/4” and 1/2” before I gave up 1/2”.

 

[Angry welder]

I have had this conversation with a few guys who are thinking about taking mechanics at school and they have asked me what to start out with and after some serious thought I have come up with this. The average shade tree guy needs:

1/2 drive impact deep sockets in both metric and standard
3/8 drive impact deep and shallow in both metric and standard
1/4 drive deep in metric and standard.

I suggest impact for everything because cordless have made it so convenient to use impact tools for almost everything. I use cordless more now than I ever did when air was the thing to have. I can't suggest the average person using chrome sockets plus impacts, because its not necessary to have that many doubles.

I also suggested buying doubles in only the most used sockets - 10,12,14 mm for instance.

 

[BikeRider]

In theory at least, aren't you supposed to only use impact sockets with impact tools and non-impact sockets with non-impact tools, at least under high-torque situations, thus the need for dual sets (putting aside deep vs. shallow, solid vs. flex head, etc.)?

Otherwise you run the risk of not only shattering a non-impact socket with an impact tool (which pretty much everyone knows even if they sometimes ignore this "rule"), but snapping an impact socket with a non-impact tool, under high load, since they're "softer" and are meant to handle very brief and transient loads, i.e. impacts, and not prolonged high-torque loads.

Or is this more theory than practice in most peoples' experience?

 

[DFB]

In theory at least, aren't you supposed to only use impact sockets with impact tools and non-impact sockets with non-impact tools, at least under high-torque situations, thus the need for dual sets (putting aside deep vs. shallow, solid vs. flex head, etc.)?

Otherwise you run the risk of not only shattering a non-impact socket with an impact tool (which pretty much everyone knows even if they sometimes ignore this "rule"), but snapping an impact socket with a non-impact tool, under high load, since they're "softer" and are meant to handle very brief and transient loads, i.e. impacts, and not prolonged high-torque loads.

Or is this more theory than practice in most peoples' experience?

Ahh I see you're new here


But of course those have been the more often known parameters of socket build Cro Mo vs CrV

 

[bonneyman]

With singletons... you have "damn it" moments... when you realize that new fastener you are trying to remove is a ghost in your socket collection. I don't like Damn It moments...

I don't have ghosts but I do have gremlins in my socket drawer (sizes that mysteriously just disappear).

 

[PhantomEB]

Nope you can’t!

I am almost done filling up my Hansen racks of 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2” drive in both standard and metric.

Now I have gotten 1/2” drive impact sockets, metric and standard. Want to get all those plus possibly 3/8” drive.

I am doing the same with wrenches, I have normal ones, gearwrenches AND flex head gearwrenches!

 

[wolf_from_wv]

I bought a 3/4" drive SAE set to have a ratchet for a couple suspension bolts on a Focus...

A couple times here in WV, I've had difficulty telling whether the road was with with snow or salt...

I've used a couple of the 3/4 drive sockets and a couple 1/2 drive sockets assisting with a snow plow blade removal.

 

[Kirkvkid]

Lots of rusty stuff up my way so 1/2" in is a necessity.

And as a heavier guy I know I can provide too much torque on 3/8" drive things. If I think I have to put my weight into it... i grab the 1/2 stuff.
It's like getting your car stuck in the mud.. i'm sure the wife's suv can get it out... but i'd rather use my 3/4 ton truck so i don't break anything.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Otherwise you run the risk of not only shattering a non-impact socket with an impact tool (which pretty much everyone knows even if they sometimes ignore this "rule"), ...

Or is this more theory than practice in most peoples' experience?[/QUOTE]
A million years ago, I worked in the garage at Sears. The guys doing shocks and muffler had well-picked over tool set. They originally came with 12 point 1/2" drive chrome sockets which are useless on rusted fasteners. They would not supply impact sockets because the store would only stock sets and they would not break the set.

Eventually, Craftsman starting making 1/2" drive 6 point sockets. 98% of the time all you needed was a deep 1/2" or 9/16". Those chromies lasted a few weeks before giving up the ghost ! The hardware department had a hard time keeping them in stock !

they're "softer" and are meant to handle very brief and transient loads, i.e. impacts, and not prolonged high-torque loads.

There is very little (if any) difference in the steel used between decent non-impact and impact sockets. They are both "chrome-moly" steel. Impact socket have thicker walls.

Cheaper sockets and wrenches are made from chrome-vanadium, which is much weaker.