Can I Leave My Compressor Running

[darkside]

I have a 5 gallo Coleman compressor. Can I leave it compressed all the time, never drain it only once in a while.

 

[bmwpower]

I don't see why not, unless "once in a while" means several weeks.

I used to drain my compressor everytime I used it...what a pain. Now, I've started to leave it pumped up and drain the condensate every couple of days or more often.

If, when you drain the tank, the water comes out rusty you may be waiting too long to drain the condensate.

 

[milly]

How often do you use the compressor?? If you use it everyday, leave pressure in it and drain it every other day. If you only use it on the weekends, drain it when you are finished. I leave my drain open a little so it dries out between use.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I have a little 12 gal/1 hp Craftsman that I bought in the early '70's. My parents house had a carport and a storage room, so there wasn't much space, so I moved the compressor to the basement and ran a 3/8 copper line up to the storeroom where I mounted the regulator. My Dad and myself used this compressor for years this way, only ocassionally draining the tank. It stayed plugged in and pressurized all those years with no problems. I still have the compressor and leave the tank pressurized at all times now. Its my spare, portable if you call rolling up a ramp into the pickup portable. Cast iron pump and real 1 hp motor makes it very heavy. I've used the compressor several times recently to set the air pressure on our community well tanks after I worked on the system and nary a problem. Don't know what condition the tank is in inside but I get oily/sludgy water out of it, not rusty water, so I assume its OK. I suspect it will outlast me.

Charles

 

[kartracer55]

Yeah, you can. Just unplug it. I know with mine, the threaded connections throughout the system leak a bit of air, and when this thing fires up, the ground shakes and the lights flicker, so It tends to piss the neighboors off, so I always make sure the switch is off

Jim

 

[evildky]

I left my old sanbourne running and only occasionally drained it, the water did come out as rusty water after several years but it still running and in use by a friend I gave ti to when I upgraded, I had it for about 10 years and gave ti away about a year ago and still going strong

 

[krooser]

Geez...I've drained my tank once in five years....I kinda forget, I guess...

 

[Ryan Wilke]

If you don't have any leaks, then you loose nothing by leaving it on. If it has leaks, then it'll run more often to maintain the air pressure, costing you electricity. The more it runs, the more air is compressed. The more air compressed, the more moisture may collect in the tank.

The amount of moisture that 'falls out' of the compressed air is entirely dependent on the amount of moisture in the incoming air and the amount of air you use. If you're climate is where you have high humidity (more than 35% relative humidity [RH]), then you should drain your tank more frequently than if you live in a drier climate (less than 35%RH). If you're getting rusty water out of your drain, then the water is sitting in your system long enough to begin the rusting process of your tank...which will kill your tank eventually. That's why it was suggested earlier to drain your tank more often if you're getting rusty water. This drain frequency will likely change with the weather and the amount of air used. Any oily residual during the drainage means that oil is passing by/thru your tired compressor. Don't think that the oil will keep your tank from rusting though, because the oil will simply float on top of the water and the water will still rust out the bottom of your storage tank....

Bigger, commercial systems install moisture traps on the incoming air line just after the intake filters to catch some of the moisture in the air before it gets into your system (meaning more maintenance) and another trap again after the compressor . Some folks also install automated condensate blow-offs that "pop off" periodically via a clock timer which will blow the tank drain for a given duration (such as for 3-seconds) and frequency (say every 12hrs). Realize what you've got then is a timed "leak" that will cause your compressor to run more often....

For most home systems, most folks will be fine if they simply change their compressor oil annually, inspect their intake filter and drive belt annually and open their tank(s) drain enough to blow out any condensate collected there quarterly. If there is a piping system, shut off the supply valve at the tank, lower the piping system air pressure to, say 10psi, then purge/uncap each condensate drop leg in the system until each one clears out......

Good Luck!
RW

 

[DIGGER_DAVE]

If you don't have any leaks, then you loose nothing by leaving it on. If it has leaks, then it'll run more often to maintain the air pressure, costing you electricity. The more it runs, the more air is compressed. The more air compressed, the more moisture may collect in the tank.

This thread started with a small compressor; a 5 gallon tank.

"I have a 5 gallon Coleman compressor. Can I leave it compressed all the time, never drain it only once in a while.
__________________
DARKSIDE "

While no harm would come to an air compressor of this size leaving it pressured all the time; as Ryan says, "You loose nothing."

BUT, one this size would only take a few moments to restore pressure.

If a compressor of this size (5 gallon) is only used occasionally it would likely "bleed down" and continue to cycle on and off using electricity and collect moisture. (the larger the receiver (tank); the LESS frequent the cycle time)

So for one this size there really would be NO benefit leaving it pressured up all the time.

Now for those who have larger compressors (mine is 60 gallon) shutting the power off only means that when I do use it (restoring power) would take longer to re-fill the receiver.

The big secret in larger air supply systems is to insure that it is a LEAK FREE as possible. This allows the receiver (tank) to stay at full pressure and there would be no delay when air is needed; and keeps the "re-cycling" at a minimum.

The amount of moisture that 'falls out' of the compressed air is entirely dependent on the amount of moisture in the incoming air and the amount of air you use. If you're climate is where you have high humidity (more than 35% relative humidity [RH]), then you should drain your tank more frequently than if you live in a drier climate (less than 35%RH). If you're getting rusty water out of your drain, then the water is sitting in your system long enough to begin the rusting process of your tank...which will kill your tank eventually. That's why it was suggested earlier to drain your tank more often if you're getting rusty water.

This drain frequency will likely change with the weather and the amount of air used.

Bigger, commercial systems install moisture traps on the incoming air line just after the intake filters to catch some of the moisture in the air before it gets into your system (meaning more maintenance) and another trap again after the compressor. Some folks also install automated condensate blow-offs that "pop off" periodically via a clock timer which will blow the tank drain for a given duration (such as for 3-seconds) and frequency (say every 12hrs). Realize what you've got then is a timed "leak" that will cause your compressor to run more often....

Because my compressor is on the second floor of my shop, I use an ELECTRICALLY operated tank drain valve that is switched on and off from in the shop. If I have been using a lot of air, I drain more frequently. The end of the drain hose is in a clear container so I can watch to see if all the moisture has been "blown out."

For most home systems, most folks will be fine if they simply change their compressor oil annually, inspect their intake filter and drive belt annually and open their tank(s) drain enough to blow out any condensate collected there quarterly. If there is a piping system, shut off the supply valve at the tank, lower the piping system air pressure to, say 10psi, then purge/uncap each condensate drop leg in the system until each one clears out......

Good Luck!
RW

All that said; AMEN!

P.S. - From another thread - NO PVC AIR LINES !!

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I always leave my compressor off for two reasons:

1. It has a small leak and will kick on occasionally, wasting electricity.

2. My older brother's portable compressor once busted a hose and kicked on for a couple of days. By the time he found it, the compressor had walked across the floor (due to the vibrations) and up against his '96 Gran Sport Corvette...where it ate all the way through the paint and about half way through the fiberglass.

Mine is too big to walk off...but just the thought of it scares me.

Phil

 

[DIGGER_DAVE]

I always leave my compressor off for two reasons:

1. It has a small leak and will kick on occasionally, wasting electricity.

2. My older brother's portable compressor once busted a hose and kicked on for a couple of days. By the time he found it, the compressor had walked across the floor (due to the vibrations) and up against his '96 Gran Sport Corvette...where it ate all the way through the paint and about half way through the fiberglass.

Mine is too big to walk off...but just the thought of it scares me.

Phil

Have to aggree, leaving your compressor "powered up" ALL the time CAN be a waste of electricity. (especially if you have one of those anoying "little leaks!")

To make life easier for the times when I'm going to be away, (for any length of time - e.g. a week) I hooked up an indicator lamp that tells me the power is on, (my compressor is upstairs from my shop) and a switch that triggers a relay to turn the power on and off; that is mounted in an aluminum box beside the man door of my shop.

As I'm walking out the door, the indicator lamp (bright RED!) reminds me the power is ON; and if I want, I can turn it off.

 

[theHIGHLANDER]

I always shut mine off. With 205 gallons of tank (1 80gal hooked to 1 125gal), 10hp, and 35cfm @ 150psi it only takes about 4-5min to fill up. It does have a nagging little leak that I can't seem to fix so I'm changing that to a "chicago" style fitting (between the tanks) as used on industrial jackhammers and such. I drain after about 40hrs of use and the big tank is almost always dry. Only the 80 gets moisture. I've shut my compressors off since I learned what a compressor even was. **** happens. You forget. Your gone a long time. Left to run on and on is a burned up unit and perhaps a burned down garage. BTW, I only have such a big unit at home cuz it was cheaper to buy a single phase 10hp motor than to sell what I have and replace it with a smaller one. My "Tim Taylor" corner of the shop.

 

[Ryan Wilke]

Reason #46 to shut off your compressor when you're not in the garage:

Many garage fires spring up after you've walked out. IF you are unlucky enough to have a fire, you sure don't want the compressor to re-start due to low pressure (which happens when the fire burns through the rubber hose you installed as a "flex loop/vibration insolator" in the piping system) only to "fan the fire" larger & quicker.... ..... not a good thing! The compressor would continue to supply "fanning combustion air" until the fire burns through the wiring and shorts out the compressor's power circuit.....which may be located on the other side of the building!

Which brings up Good Point #54:
Only use shielded fire-resistant flex lines and not simply rubber hose to serve as vibration absorbers at various locations in your system.

Leading to Good Point #55:
If possible, try to do your welding or heavy grinding OUTSIDE of your garage, leaving all hot sparks outside as well. IF you choose or must do this work inside, have a few sections of 2-ft high plywood that you can place around your work area to prevent sparks from flying under your benches & equipment. Such sparks WILL mix with the dust-bunnies that live under there & possibly start a fire! It is also a good idea to plan to remain in the work area for at least 30 minutes after such work has been done - allowing you to detect any smoldering that may occur afterwards.

RW

 

[tommy]

I have a 5 gallo Coleman compressor. Can I leave it compressed all the time, never drain it only once in a while.

I forgot to turn off my old small belt driven compressor once. It threw the serpintine type belt. The motor probably ran continuously for a week straight before I needed the air and realized something was wrong. (the compressor is upstairs for noise reduction.) With it upstairs, I was less than vigilant about draining the tank. The tank actually rusted through from the inside out... I think I'll go drain my tank!

At my muffler shop we always closed the valve at the tank and turned off the compressor every night. the tank remained pressurized but nothing else. I do the same at my home shop. I don't see the big advantage of keeping it powered up.

 

[bmwpower]

I think I will just get an auto drain and be done with it. Shut the compressor off when I'm not around, but let the auto drain worry about draining the condensate.

 

[Ryan Wilke]

I forgot to turn off my old small belt driven compressor once. It threw the serpintine type belt. The motor probably ran continuously for a week straight before I needed the air and realized something was wrong. (the compressor is upstairs for noise reduction.) With it upstairs, I was less than vigilant about draining the tank. The tank actually rusted through from the inside out... I think I'll go drain my tank!

At my muffler shop we always closed the valve at the tank and turned off the compressor every night. the tank remained pressurized but nothing else. I do the same at my home shop. I don't see the big advantage of keeping it powered up.

Tommy,
Someone mentioned a good suggestion earlier regarding your 'thrown belt' situation..... The suggestion was to wire in an indicator light above or near your entrance/exit doorway, by the telephone, or somewhere where you would see it often - and it would be lit whenever the compressor motor is running. That way you would have known it was running continuously although you hadn't used any air for a while.....

As you know, the task of blowing out the condensate isn't difficult to perform, it's usually just inconvienent to get to where it is performed, (such as a small valve located at the bottom of a remotely located tank) or as with most folks, it simply gets forgotten. You may want to consider running some piping to plumb the drain line down from your overhead tank to a frequently-used washtub, slop sink, drain, or doorway or such where you are more apt to simply see the line/valve and thus remember to "blow the condensate out" periodically. I'd also guess that 99% of most air tanks / recievers that do fail do so as a result of internal rust, rusting from the inside out, which was only because of the lack of frequent moisture removal.

I like your idea of shutting off the air system AT THE TANK and killing the compressor power when you're away. Because, as mentioned earlier, if a fire was to occur in the shop and the fire was to burn through a pressurized rubber/plastic air hose, the compressed air would then "fan" the fire with compressed air....until the tank ran dry or, worse, IF the power was left on, until the power was shorted out to kill the compressor. Neither condition is good! By valving off the tank and killing the power to the compressor, only the residual air pressure in the piping lines would "fan a flame" and no loss of time would be realized when you return to the shop and need air - simply open the tank-to-system valve & hit the power switch......

BMW,
Auto-drains are nice. But they are like these computers, the work just fine ONLY as long as they work. I'd still want to check their operation periodically (2X/year?) to ensure they are still operating correctly.....

Which reminds me of another similar issue: Care to guess how many folks follow the recommended performance check of the "automated" pressure relief valve mounted on their domestic hotwater heaters? If you don't manually operate the relief valve periodically, there's a good chance they won't operate correctly, if / when needed. Read about it here: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Repair/WaterHtrMaintaince.html

Just my 2 cents worth,
RW .......I'm ready for one!