Can I use this oil, in this compressor?

[Bennylava]

Can I use this oil:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PL9BVY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

In this compressor?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MKP5JM/?tag=atomicindus08-20


I went to their website, and looked at the PDF manual to try and find out the exact type of oil. Says it comes pre filled, but of course I'll finally need to change it at some point. When it comes to the type of oil, all they say is:

"Use synthetic, non detergent compressor oil".

I'd like to know more about which oils I can use. Do air compressors have different oil weights? And what about the difference between a gas compressor's oil, vs an electric compressor's oil? (Only it comes to the pump, of course.)

 

[bob15]

Yes, you can use that RP oil in the compressor you listed. That is a very good oil.

 

[Bennylava]

Alight I trust ya. Your name is bob after all. How could you not be right.

 

[rlitman]

Can I use this oil...
I'd like to know more about which oils I can use. Do air compressors have different oil weights? And what about the difference between a gas compressor's oil, vs an electric compressor's oil? (Only it comes to the pump, of course.)

Yep, looks fine to me. That's just a standard splash oil lubricated piston compressor, so a standard synthetic compressor oil will do.

lf we're talking about standard splash oil lubricated piston compressors (like your link), I've only seem them call for 30 weight oil, with synthetic (that only comes in a multi-grade) being called for both for better cold performance and longevity.

If we're talking about something more exotic (scroll, vane, pressure lubricated, etc.), then you really need to consult your manual.

When you say gas compressor's oil, you're talking about the oil in the compressor head, right? Again, that's the same. Gas compressors really only differ from electric compressors in that they have a different unloader.

Oh, and my neighbor calls me Bob. She's a bit of a strange bird though...

 

[bob15]

Alight I trust ya. Your name is bob after all. How could you not be right.

LOL

Actually I use the RP oil you listed on my own 50+ year old IR compressor. One of the things I like is the low pour point of the oil.

Here is the "propaganda" by RP:

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/synfilm-recip-100-reciprocating-air-compressor-oil/

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-content/uploads/PS_Synfilm_Recip.pdf

 

[Bennylava]

In my experience, Royal Purple delivers on what they say. Texas based company too. I run it throughout my Mustang GT. Engine, trans, rear end. It made my noisey 5-speed ford transmission shut up. That thing whined for years. And ford is known for whiny transmissions. At least they used to be. Not sure about the newer stuff.

Also that compressor is made in USA by an American company. I like that.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I have been using RP in our Quincy QR 325 for many years and never a problem. Great oil.

 

[Tallpilot]

In my experience, Royal Purple delivers on what they say. Texas based company too. I run it throughout my Mustang GT. Engine, trans, rear end. It made my noisey 5-speed ford transmission shut up. That thing whined for years. And ford is known for whiny transmissions. At least they used to be. Not sure about the newer stuff.

Also that compressor is made in USA by an American company. I like that.

With the newer stuff you can't hear the transmission whine over the other noises.

 

[mudflap]

We use NAPA conventional 30wt Non Det in our big champion compressors at work... They are going strong..both 25yrs old.

 

[firebox40dash5]

My CH/Speedaire called for SAE30, non-detergent, synthetic oil. I bought the RP oil after failing to find much of anything else that checked all 3 boxes. Definitely want ND since it's splash-lubed and unfiltered. And synthetic for heat stability, and I imagine it varnishes less. And it's ISO100 weight, which IIRC is pretty much SAE30.

Mine hasn't gone boom yet... not that it sees many hours.

 

[sberry]

It's really good, run the original oil a few minutes to polish and flush anything out, or run it a year or 2 and the Royal could be good for the life of the unit. Shate,,, if it comes filled with synthetic then a guy could about skip the change. Run it.

 

[Bennylava]

It's really good, run the original oil a few minutes to polish and flush anything out, or run it a year or 2 and the Royal could be good for the life of the unit. Shate,,, if it comes filled with synthetic then a guy could about skip the change. Run it.

Yeah that was gonna be my next question. How does one know exactly when its time to change the oil? It would be nice if it had a little digital monitor somewhere, maybe mounted right next to the PSI gauge. That said how many hours the compressor had ran. And then you just know to change the oil at 100 hours, or 500, or whatever the interval is.

 

[sberry]

It takes a long long time for a home brew type to put 500 hrs on a comp. People do put meters on them but it's pretty much a waste of effort. I had Royal in mine and at 10 years it looked brandy new, I almost felt guilty tossing it. It runs every day, we have guys here, have seen them run 40 years on same oil and while the demands are a bit different the oil today is way superior.
Just like a lot of transmissions, the oil may be good for life of the unit. In a home garage with that type of comp I would pretty much forget about it, change if you have to work on it for some reason if it has been in there for years. I have a couple, 1 expensive one I havnt changes from new, Royal in it, going on 20 years, way more expensive than that one. I used Amsoil on my last one as the store quit carring Royal.

 

[sberry]

That's why there is no monitoring, no real fuss and only guestimation, It just isn't that fussy.

 

[fatfillup]

I think my buddy's theory of wet applies here. Any oil is better then no oil.

Its not a race motor, its not sophisticated, it just needs to be lubed. Any oil labeled for air compressors should work just fine. No need to sweat it.

 

[sberry]

The one I did change a while back was in the pressure washer. It gets a lot of use, daily, and it did look a bit grungy. Its been a while since I had a pump apart and don't recall at the moment if there is a way for water to get in to the crankcase, I spose there is. It must be the second or third change since I had it, about 84 or so and the oil I put in they hadn't even been invented at the time it was made.

 

[nczo6]

We use NAPA conventional 30wt Non Det in our big champion compressors at work... They are going strong..both 25yrs old.

I use the same oil in my champion as well, never had an issue but I probably change the oil in it every 30 hours or so just because it’s cheap insurance. That type of compressor your looking to buy I’m assuming you’ll be running in a garage with pretty clean air so you shouldn’t have a problem at all with any non detergent oil.

 

[sberry]

And then you just know to change the oil at 100 hours, or 500, or whatever the interval is.

Most of these are 500 from oem. My neighbor is a finicky guy and a compressor mechanic from Shell, got stainless air lines, could get free oil,,, doesn't bother changing it in his own.
My neighbor girl has a Ford pu. Has an anxiety attack when the oil is getting close to 3k and had to be convinced that the Castrol Syntec she is using can go longer so she has decided to live on the edge and stretched it to 5K and goes from anxiety to panic at that point. She has a lot of auto knowledge as evidenced by the fact she does her own oil despite her boss owns a lube joint or the Ford garage does it for 30$. Most troubleshooting begins with a change, flat tire, ball joint doesn't much matter.
Its so critical she is out in the drive at 10 degrees in a snowmobile suit so it doesn't go over. Despite this some little piece busts and shits the engine. About 2 dozen changes in well under a 100K for "insurance". I was wondering where some jugs kept showing up from with used oil by the drain. Looks new. I keep waiting for the hammer to drop on mine as it had had about a dozen changes in 150K and most of them when it was newer.

 

[sberry]

I got another neighbor who knows more about about cars and oil changes than most people do. Car hasn't moved in 2 years, up on blocks due to a flat tire, got a seized ball joint and an injector doesn't work, I forget what else but is shoveling it out of the snow so he can warm up the engine and change the oil. Aint no way this car is ever going to move again but it is getting a new Wix filter and 5 qts of premium engine oil.
Its comical in its own right. I had my own work van in for a brake problem and he caught me doing a change. I said, yes, its been a couple years, someone gave me a couple filters, it was high and dry and I had oil in stock, wtf, its been good to me, its got feelings too, I give it a change. He asked, well how many miles oin it,,,, poor guy about had a stroke when I said I wasn't sure, been a couple 3 yrs, maybe 20 or 25 large. He was sure I was going to hell for that, I think he might have been here to ask for help with a car but didn't, fine by me,,, he walked home.

 

[Bennylava]

Sounds like they're kind of misinformed on intervals. But yeah my compressor will just be home use. I'll use it plenty, but it won't run every day or anything. Just needed a good replacement for the $120 chinese compressor I had for 5 years that finally died. Don't know what killed it, don't really care cause I didn't like the thing much. It always had some problem or another. Glad to finally have a quality compressor.


This new one has the option to run on 240v, but I don't have a 240 out in the garage. Might have to rig that up someday.

 

[EOC_Jason]

#1 thing is to use a non-detergent oil, otherwise a regular type oil will foam, work its way up to your valves and then form a nice hard crust on them. Also the detergent oils are meant to keep the metal particles suspended (so the filter can trap it) instead of letting them settle to the bottom of your pan.

Most compressor oil if its not labeled is ~30wt... Consumer grade compressors are more or less all the same.

Synthetic is the way to go, especially for really hot / cold climates. A brand new compressor I would run initially with regular oil, and then when you do your first oil change after the specified break-in period I would switch to synthetic.

 

[fatfillup]

The one I did change a while back was in the pressure washer. It gets a lot of use, daily, and it did look a bit grungy. Its been a while since I had a pump apart and don't recall at the moment if there is a way for water to get in to the crankcase, I spose there is.

Yes water can get in the crankcase of the pressure washer pump. if a plunger is cracked or the seals are real bad, water can get in the oil. it will look like a milkshake. The oil seals are designed to keep the oil in the pump, but water can go past the oil seal pretty easily.

Most pumps will work fine on 30 weight non detergent oil. For Cat pumps I always use Cat pump oil or a knock off of it.

The slow spinning belt drive pumps can go a long time on oil, years and years. The faster spinning direct drive pumps should have regular oil changes. Every 100 hours or so.

 

[sberry]

Yes, mine is a belt. It might be a SP 100, for some reason the name slips past me at the moment, the good one, he The only thing I ever had was a valve seat come loose, maybe I fixed it or the dealer had a reman head for it, can't recall now.

 

[Bennylava]

Why exactly is belt driven better? I'd prefer it just because to me it seems simpler to work on. Any other reasons?

 

[fatfillup]

Why exactly is belt driven better? I'd prefer it just because to me it seems simpler to work on. Any other reasons?

Several reasons (note, there are some odd exceptions)

One, belt drive pumps tend to spin at 1/2 of motor speed where direct drives spin at motor speed. If every thing was equal, something spinning slower lasts longer

Two, everything is not equal. Belt drive pumps tend to be bigger with bigger cranks, bearing, rods etc. So they last much longer then direct drives. They also have larger oil capacity

Three, belt drives tend to have better packing systems (seals)

Belt drive also tend to have larger diameter pistons. Couple this with slow spinning and they can **** water out of a tank. Direct drives don't **** well especially when they get some age on them.

Because the pump and motor are isolated from one another, there is no direct transfer of vibration. Not a big deal but a plus.


On a cold water system with a 13 HP honda, (very common) the motor will outlast 3 to 5 direct drive pumps where if cared for, the belt drive and motor will wear out about the same time. Note, you will repack and revalve the pump a few times and replace the unloader several times but the belt drive will be cheaper to own long term.

Note, I have sold industrial washers for 35 years as well as repaired them personally. The above is my real world hands on experience. I do have a tendency towards selling top quality and have little use for anything less then commercial quality so I am biased.

 

[fatfillup]

sberry, if your pump is a SP100, that would be a Giant pump. In its day, it was top notch.

I haven't seen one in 20 years or better, they just aren't used in my market. I think parts are still available but I wouldn't count on that going to far forward, but that is a guess on my part.

 

[sberry]

Mine is a Giant. Could be an 85 too. I will agree with fillup that this is a little like a wire welder, the better the unit the better and longer it works. When it works well a guy finds way more use for it than he figured. A lot of it depends oin where he lives and what kind of work is done, I use mine on most days and there is no substitute for hot water. So many things can be done with it. Benny doesn't have ice on most days,,, ha but in cold climes that is a big deal, I cut it all off before it ever comes in.
I have a heated shop, mine is rigged to go in a minute, run the hose thru the wall, hook wand on and switch.
I have one in a truck with water tanks too.
I don't recall every model number, back when I built about 6 of them in trucks. Some 5 gpm and some 11 which would pump against 2K. It wouold support 2 guns although they rarely got used that way, they washed some but didn't use conventional unloaders but simple needle valves for bypass and were used often for water or light brine injection in oil patch. 2 tanks on the truck, 900 gallons or so. Big azz burners, must have weighed 800#, maybe more for that alone. 20 hp engine, 2 cyl Kaw water coolers, they ran 1000's of hours.
The one in my truck is a real relic, I found used parts, for the limited use it sees its fine. Its in an insulated body for cold weather work.

 

[Roberts210]

Here's the head off of a 50-yr old 20-gallon compressor I once owned. You can see the valves lying nearby. It had compressor oil or non-detergent oil in it it's whole life.

This one used regular motor oil. The additives that make an oil a detergent motor oil are also the ones that allow the oil to dry out and form this type of crud. This one had an additional problem--a small screw got sucked in somehow.

 

[fatfillup]

Very interesting on the difference between detergent oil and non.

 

[fatfillup]

sberry, very nice simple but user friendly set ups you have.

You are correct about hot water and also the easier you make it to use, the more it will get used.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Here's the head off of a 50-yr old 20-gallon compressor I once owned. You can see the valves lying nearby. It had compressor oil or non-detergent oil in it it's whole life.

This one used regular motor oil. The additives that make an oil a detergent motor oil are also the ones that allow the oil to dry out and form this type of crud. This one had an additional problem--a small screw got sucked in somehow.

I wish I took pics when I took apart a used 60 Gallon Craftsman (Sanborn) head a few years ago. Not nearly as bad as yours but was pretty crusty on the reeds. I unscrewed the reeds and used a razor blade to scrap off the dried oil and cleaned the plate best I could. Oddly enough somehow a staple got wedged in one of the reeds (probably due to the felt filter missing on the intake), and it looked like at some point one of the screws for the reeds came loose as there were marks on the top of the cylinder and plate. I made sure to use some blue loctite when reassembling them.

 

[mdog892001]

I just bought some Amsoil compressor oil.


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[Bennylava]

Note, I have sold industrial washers for 35 years as well as repaired them personally.

Took me reading a few posts down to get that you sold industrial power washers. I wanted to ask you about industrial washing machines. Like a bigger badder version of the home units. Cause I got this idea... (lol)

Throughout many years of flipping cars, I've noticed that if you can put something from a car's interior through a washing machine, it basically comes out perfect. To be clear, that is just more perfect than the standard methods. I can't count how many seat covers and floor mats I've put through an old washing machine I have.

And they all looked very close to new when they came out. And these were old, nasty things that you'd think would likely be trash. This is of course barring real damage to them. Just talking about stains and general nastiness. A washing machine just performs so much better than even the very best steam cleaners and extractors, that money can buy. Seen 'em, tested 'em, owned 'em, been around lots of 'em...washing machine works better. Just one of those things I guess.

So I want a big, fat industrial washing machine. Something I can throw not only floor mats and seat upholstery through, but also automotive carpets! Yes, the whole carpet lol. The carpet from a suburban or an Excursion if need be. Throw that thing in there with a bunch of crappy old towels, and it will come out much cleaner and better looking than with using an extractor. And it will smell better too.

So any of you guys got any ideas on how a person might come across a quality (but perhaps old and used) industrial washing machine that would fit a Suburban carpet inside?

 

[Kenskip1]

Why not head on over to your friendly Lowes and spend less than half of what the RP costs.They have air compressor oil that is designed just for compressors.

 

[fatfillup]

Took me reading a few posts down to get that you sold industrial power washers. I wanted to ask you about industrial washing machines. Like a bigger badder version of the home units. Cause I got this idea... (lol)

Throughout many years of flipping cars, I've noticed that if you can put something from a car's interior through a washing machine, it basically comes out perfect. To be clear, that is just more perfect than the standard methods. I can't count how many seat covers and floor mats I've put through an old washing machine I have.

And they all looked very close to new when they came out. And these were old, nasty things that you'd think would likely be trash. This is of course barring real damage to them. Just talking about stains and general nastiness. A washing machine just performs so much better than even the very best steam cleaners and extractors, that money can buy. Seen 'em, tested 'em, owned 'em, been around lots of 'em...washing machine works better. Just one of those things I guess.

So I want a big, fat industrial washing machine. Something I can throw not only floor mats and seat upholstery through, but also automotive carpets! Yes, the whole carpet lol. The carpet from a suburban or an Excursion if need be. Throw that thing in there with a bunch of crappy old towels, and it will come out much cleaner and better looking than with using an extractor. And it will smell better too.

So any of you guys got any ideas on how a person might come across a quality (but perhaps old and used) industrial washing machine that would fit a Suburban carpet inside?

I have washed many carpets with a pressure washer and they come out great. Hot water works better but cold will make a big difference. I always spray them down with a butyl based degreaser and then have at it.

A commercial washing machine would work but you might get a lot of vibration with an unbalanced load.

 

[Fbmoose48]

I think my buddy's theory of wet applies here. Any oil is better then no oil.

Its not a race motor, its not sophisticated, it just needs to be lubed. Any oil labeled for air compressors should work just fine. No need to sweat it.

This.

We're not sending it on a 5-year mission to the edge of the galaxy, it'll be ok.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I just bought some Amsoil compressor oil.

Excellent! That's what I use. Back when I lived in Houston there was an Amsoil dealer just around the corner from our office so it was very convenient!

 

[Bennylava]

I have washed many carpets with a pressure washer and they come out great. Hot water works better but cold will make a big difference. I always spray them down with a butyl based degreaser and then have at it.

A commercial washing machine would work but you might get a lot of vibration with an unbalanced load.

That is true about the power washers. Has a lot of the same effect as the washing machine would. But tossing it in a machine and hitting a button, is a lot easier and less time consuming than using the power washer. And no problem in the winter time, when I'd really rather not be standing out in the cold spraying water.

So you are the right person to ask this next question: What is a good bang for the buck, hot water power washer? I mean plenty hot. Enough to do really well at knocking off all the old grease and dirt from an engine or the underside of a car or truck. I've looked into them, and you can pay an awful lot for a good hot water power washer. So I'd just like to hear what you have to say, on one that works good but maybe is priced somewhat less than the top end models. I don't know what the prices are, but I'd feel ok spending say... $2500 on one. But it would be real nice if there was a good unit that was $1500.

We're not sending it on a 5-year mission to the edge of the galaxy, it'll be ok.

True but I wanted to be 100% that I wouldn't put in the wrong oil and shorten the life, or god forbid kill the compressor. This is important information to someone like me who didn't know.

 

[sberry]

I see Northern or Pressure Direct has them. I havnt ran the Northern unit, I would like to try one to see.

 

[sberry]

The performance really goes up at about 4 grand. If you have equipment you are protecting depreciation, have bad road it's worth the stretch. It's 2 1/2 x as good as a smaller model.