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Canadian needs new air compressor

petee_c

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Discovered this week that my air compressor tank has developed a pin hole leak. It's along the weld at the bottom. It's a horizontal tank.

Its a champion porta-champ. My guess is it's from the late 80s/early 90s. I bought it used from an old guy about 10yrs ago.

It's a good compressor. Belt drive 110v, about 30 gallon tank size, v twin.

Looking for a replacement.

I don't use the compressor that much, but "1 day" I'd like to paint my project miata.

Here are what my options are:
1. Put the old pump on a new/used tank. This would require some work, I understand how a compressor works, but I have never done this before.

2. Find a reasonably priced belt driven compressor that runs on 110v.
I'm not interested in a direct drive compressor as they all seem rather loud.

3. Single stage 60 gallon compressor, but that requires 220v and I'm all out of room in my panel. I do have a n14-50 receptacle in the garage for the ev charger, but that's on the other side of the garage from where the compressor would sit.

If the compressor draws less than 20amps,i could put it in my basement workshop, although room is pretty tight in there as well.
 
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matthew

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If the compressor suits what you need, Princess is probably the best source for a new tank. Not sure if they have smaller tanks.

Makita has a really good 120v compressor - mac4200 (or 5200?). Rona sells them, and every so often princess has them as factory refurbs.

There’s quite a large jump in cfm to go from any 120v to a 220 60gal. Personally I’d like the pump from the 60gal, but with a smaller tank. For me to add a charge tank that I can close the valve and not fill of I’m just filling a tire.
 

u2slow

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CH and Speedaire make 240v/10cfm/20-30gal portables.
 
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petee_c

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If the compressor suits what you need, Princess is probably the best source for a new tank. Not sure if they have smaller tanks.

Makita has a really good 120v compressor - mac4200 (or 5200?). Rona sells them, and every so often princess has them as factory refurbs.

There’s quite a large jump in cfm to go from any 120v to a 220 60gal. Personally I’d like the pump from the 60gal, but with a smaller tank. For me to add a charge tank that I can close the valve and not fill of I’m just filling a tire.
Thx

Checked princess autos website. No smaller tanks.

I did find a tank that appears to be 36" tall and 16" diameter used locally. I have no idea how old it is.

1696710559872.png

1696710599571.png

I might check it out....

...........
This is a thread on my current leaky compressor

 

K13

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I have two Princess Auto 60 gallon compressors. One has been running for at least 25 years and the other over 10 with Zero issues. I have a friend who reps an industrial compressor line and when I was going to buy my second one he told me just buy one at Princess Auto and that they were by far the best bang for the buck. Unfortunately, like everything else, they have gone up in price quite a bit over the last 3 or 4 years.
 
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petee_c

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I guess I could run an extension cord.... looks like the 3.7hp compressors run 15amps on 220v. So I guess a 12gauge extension cord should work....

https://www.peaveymart.com/tools-we...rtical-compressor/755110#product-availability is an interesting option....

I'm going to also check out a small mennonite air compressor repair place near me, but I doubt they will patch the tank... maybe they have a tank used/new that would work....

 

GeoBruin

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2. Find a reasonably priced belt driven compressor that runs on 110v.
I'm not interested in a direct drive compressor as they all seem rather loud.
Your notion of the issue with a "direct drive" compressor (noise) is outdated. There's zero chance you find a belt driven compressor that's quieter than a modern oilless like a CAT or one of the clones anywhere near your price range. I'm not saying you should choose one over an oil lubed compressor. That all depends on how much air you need and how much space/money you have. I'm just saying noise shouldn't be the deterrent.
 

scooby074

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Princess does have replacement 60 gal tanks, but theyre $$$, almost as much as one of their entry level Sanborne compressors. If you had a good, condition, old school, pump and motor, Id consider a tank replacement. But otherwise Id just buy a new complete Sandborn and keep your old bits and pieces for service parts if needed.

If you can swing one of the better PA compressors, like their 2 stage that would be even better. Getting the electric fixed up to make some space to add the 220v circuit wouldnt be that big of a deal IMHO.

No complaints with the PA compressors, the bigger, cast iron ones atleast. Ive abused old PA "made in Canada" one for years. Other than burning out a motor, it keeps on ticking.

You said youre wanting to paint. Dont underestimate how much air you need. Sanders use a TON of air. Paint guns use a surprising amt too. The issue is they are a constant drain of air. Your compressor needs to PUMP the amt of air that they use, otherwise you pull it from the reservoir tank and the compressor cant keep up. Overworking the compressor results in overheated air, which results in a lot of water being produced. Which results in ruined paint. What Im saying is buy the biggest air compressor you can afford if you plan on using anything that is constant draw, like painting, sandblasting or sanders. Other intermittent air tools like impacts or ratchets etc, it doesnt really matter.
 

Citation

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I had a similar issue a few years back. My compressor was a 20 gallon Campbell Hausfeld OEM belt drive unit. The vertical tank got a pinhole leak so that was that. Pisser since I had finally got the wiring in my undersized garage sorted out and got the compressor back from the person to whom I had loaned it while I was waiting to get a better garage. Also a pisser since just a few weeks before I passed on a Lowes clearance on a 2 stage, 30 gallon CH for $125.

Anyway, I found a used CH 26 gallon tank from one of the direct drive, oil free compressors. The top plate was smaller than mine as it was only designed for the 4 bolts that held the direct drive pump. I cut the top plate off my compressor and, with a plywood spacer, bolted the old top plate on the smaller top plate. This worked quite well. The only headache was I had to create a new line from the head to the tank as the inlets were in different locations. Net result is my current setup is a bit Frankenstein but works well. Figuring out the various parts of the compressor isn't hard once you look at the thing and think about what each part does.

The catch is tank replacement is it only makes sense if you find a deal on the tank/donor compressor. New tanks are just too expensive as a stand alone purchase. Keep in mind that you could pair two smaller tanks to get your 30 gallons of air. Another options which might make sense in your case is to get two smaller compressors and tie them together (but run them on separate AC circuits) so you get the combine pressure/volume of the pair.
 
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petee_c

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Also considering a trip across the border to HF to get this... It comes filled with oil, but I could lay it down on a tarp in the car, just in case it leaks...


$753 cdn.

edit: looks like it comes with oil, but not in the compressor....
 
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petee_c

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Your notion of the issue with a "direct drive" compressor (noise) is outdated. There's zero chance you find a belt driven compressor that's quieter than a modern oilless like a CAT or one of the clones anywhere near your price range. I'm not saying you should choose one over an oil lubed compressor. That all depends on how much air you need and how much space/money you have. I'm just saying noise shouldn't be the deterrent.

Interesting....

My main uses these days for the compressor are:

- blowing things out. like cleaning nooks and crannies when doing the interior of the car.
- spraying rustproofing on my vehicles.
- setting the bead on my tubeless bicycle tires.
-airing up car tires.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...t-vertical-shopauto-air-compressor-57336.html says 69dba? that's pretty good.

I'll do some more research on direct drive compressors...
 
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GeoBruin

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Interesting....

My main uses these days for the compressor are:

- blowing things out. like cleaning nooks and crannies when doing the interior of the car.
- spraying rustproofing on my vehicles.
- setting the bead on my tubeless bicycle tires.
-airing up car tires.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...t-vertical-shopauto-air-compressor-57336.html says 69dba? that's pretty good.

I'll do some more research on direct drive compressors...
That's exactly what I'm talking about. To my knowledge, California Air Tools kind of pioneered that style, and their models still offer slightly higher flow for a given "horsepower", but you do pay a premium. I recommend that little HF unit you linked a lot for people who don't plan on running a body shop. I've considered getting one myself to act as a "peaker" for my 5 hp 60 gallon for the few situations where I don't have enough air.
 
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petee_c

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Went to the local air compressor repair shop. They confirmed my suspicions that they could not weld the tank due to TSSA rules. They did suggest I could get it patched elsewhere.

They did have a line of Omega compressors, but they were expensive. $1600cdn for the 25 gallon/110v model. They do seem overbuilt. but probably similiar to the "need a diesel zero turn mower for my residential yard". I probably don't need that much compressor. I'm in my early 50's, so I will probably wrench on my own stuff for another 10-15yrs or so.

They did have a used tank they could sell me for $200 for a 20 gallon model. I did find a couple newish looking 60 gallon tanks on facebook for free, but poster hasnt responded. I did find it 25 mins after the post went up, but maybe it was already snatched up. I would also have to get it up some stairs.

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1696958135222.png
 

u2slow

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K thx

Moot point. That ad is down.

I'd look more at the 220v options, but I would need to make some sort of extension cord to get power from my n14-50 receptacle

With the 3-3.7hp portables, run a new #12 circuit.

That 50A circuit is probably going to have large conductors that are too big for a 20A breaker.

If you do get into a 5hp class machine, then it needs to be hard-wired anyway.
 
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petee_c

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I went with a 110v compressor. Got it at the local Mennonite Hardware Store. If you are ever passing through Southern Ontario, this place is great. They used to have a small 'downtown' location, but built a huge retail store a couple years ago. Millbank Hardware.

I got a King Canada 110v compressor. Can output 6 CFM at 90psi. It should meet all my needs in the near future and should be around to pass on to my kids (likely only the son will want it) when it's time to clear outta here.

uaj179.jpg

The going price is $749cdn + tax, and I got them to deliver it tomorrow afternoon for free.

In the past 12 months, I've used my compressor to:
- air up tires on 5 cars
- remove stuck lug bolts on one wheel that the Makita 18V Hi Torque couldnt remove.
- rustproof spray'd 3 vehicles
- ran a cheap air hammer a few times.
- setup 4 tubeless bicycle tires

The newer compressor design seems to include a finned pipe in the pump to connect both cylinders and for the connection between the pump to the tank. That's to cool the charge air, but the water still goes into the tank. I'd like to still mod it and add an aftercooler to it and dump the water before it gets into the tank.

My search for a used compressor lead me to the fact that people want top dollar for 20+ yr old compressors. Most of what's out there is direct drive junk, or ancient belt drive stuff. If I bought that, I'd probably be in the same spot where I am now in 10 yrs with a rusted out tank.

My Champion Porta Champ compressor served me well for the 12 yrs I had it. The rust problem was likely my fault. It is on the end of the compressor away from the drain. My garage floor is sloped just a tiny bit for drainage. Probably 5/32" over 2'. On a 32" long horizontal tank, that would mean maybe 1/4" of water on the downslope end.

I do remember having shimmed up the wheels of the compressor in the past to get it level, but it wasn't shimmed for the past who knows how long. When I would open the drain, the water would still sit at the far end of the horizontal tank. That was my case. Operator error.

Some pics of my old compressor.
1697051570902.png
area of leak - u can see the rust stain on the floor:
1697051664465.png

I posted it up on facebook market place for $125 cdn. I put astericks around the leaky tank part. The pump and motor are still good. Just impossible to find a good tank for cheap around here. Maybe someone on there will have a good tank and burned out compressor that they want to fix up. My guess is around 5-5.5CFM at 90psi.

 
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Citation

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I went with a 110v compressor. Got it at the local Mennonite Hardware Store. If you are ever passing through Southern Ontario, this place is great. They used to have a small 'downtown' location, but built a huge retail store a couple years ago. Millbank Hardware.

I got a King Canada 110v compressor. Can output 6 CFM at 90psi. It should meet all my needs in the near future and should be around to pass on to my kids (likely only the son will want it) when it's time to clear outta here.

uaj179.jpg

The going price is $749cdn + tax, and I got them to deliver it tomorrow afternoon for free.

In the past 12 months, I've used my compressor to:
- air up tires on 5 cars
- remove stuck lug bolts on one wheel that the Makita 18V Hi Torque couldnt remove.
- rustproof spray'd 3 vehicles
- ran a cheap air hammer a few times.
- setup 4 tubeless bicycle tires

The newer compressor design seems to include a finned pipe in the pump to connect both cylinders and for the connection between the pump to the tank. That's to cool the charge air, but the water still goes into the tank. I'd like to still mod it and add an aftercooler to it and dump the water before it gets into the tank.

My search for a used compressor lead me to the fact that people want top dollar for 20+ yr old compressors. Most of what's out there is direct drive junk, or ancient belt drive stuff. If I bought that, I'd probably be in the same spot where I am now in 10 yrs with a rusted out tank.

My Champion Porta Champ compressor served me well for the 12 yrs I had it. The rust problem was likely my fault. It is on the end of the compressor away from the drain. My garage floor is sloped just a tiny bit for drainage. Probably 5/32" over 2'. On a 32" long horizontal tank, that would mean maybe 1/4" of water on the downslope end.

I do remember having shimmed up the wheels of the compressor in the past to get it level, but it wasn't shimmed for the past who knows how long. When I would open the drain, the water would still sit at the far end of the horizontal tank. That was my case. Operator error.

Some pics of my old compressor.
1697051570902.png
area of leak - u can see the rust stain on the floor:
1697051664465.png

I posted it up on facebook market place for $125 cdn. I put astericks around the leaky tank part. The pump and motor are still good. Just impossible to find a good tank for cheap around here. Maybe someone on there will have a good tank and burned out compressor that they want to fix up. My guess is around 5-5.5CFM at 90psi.

Find about 2' of rubber/vinyl hose that just slides over the inlet tubes to the air intakes (1' per side). It will reduce the noise level. Not hugely so but we'll worth a few dollars of hardware store tube. I learned this from thinking the short tube on my CAT compressor was some sort of joke... until I tried it. Yeah, it does make a difference.
 
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petee_c

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Find about 2' of rubber/vinyl hose that just slides over the inlet tubes to the air intakes (1' per side). It will reduce the noise level. Not hugely so but we'll worth a few dollars of hardware store tube. I learned this from thinking the short tube on my CAT compressor was some sort of joke... until I tried it. Yeah, it does make a difference.

between the cylinder head and the filters? can you post a pic when u get a chance?
 

Citation

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between the cylinder head and the filters? can you post a pic when u get a chance?
No, in the air intake to the filter housing. Something like this guy did but don't bother with the PVC stuff at the end. In my case I didn't need a hose clamp to hold the tube on the air filter housing. I'm not saying his plastic part doesn't help but in my case just adding that tubing made quite a big difference. My belt drive compressor isn't as quiet as my CAT little compressor but it's not at all bad to be around.
 
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petee_c

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New Compressor Day.

- delivered to the wrong house. They dropped it off at the neighbors 2 doors down.
- got it on a toy wagon and wheeled it home with help of another neighbor.
-unpacked and put filters, wheels, feet and handle on
- took handle off so it would fit in the spot in the garage
- checked oil level
-ran 15 minute break in - drainvalve and outlet open
- put a couple short sections of PVC hose on the intake (not sure if there is a difference in noise)
- ran it to full (130psi) and then bled off air with blow gun until compressor came back on and filled back up to full
- shut the compressor off and openned the drain valve for a second.

- still need to install shut off valve on outlet of new compressor.

Old compressor sold and picked up within 24 hrs of listing.

1697148796135.png

Some weird marketting. It used to be King Canada, now King Industrial with some resemblance of USA vibes on the label.

Marketted as a 20 gallon compressor, but it's 20 Imperial Gallons - it's 24 US gallons, confirmed by exterior tank measurements of about 32.5" long and ~15" diameter.
 

Citation

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New Compressor Day.

- delivered to the wrong house. They dropped it off at the neighbors 2 doors down.
- got it on a toy wagon and wheeled it home with help of another neighbor.
-unpacked and put filters, wheels, feet and handle on
- took handle off so it would fit in the spot in the garage
- checked oil level
-ran 15 minute break in - drainvalve and outlet open
- put a couple short sections of PVC hose on the intake (not sure if there is a difference in noise)
- ran it to full (130psi) and then bled off air with blow gun until compressor came back on and filled back up to full
- shut the compressor off and openned the drain valve for a second.

- still need to install shut off valve on outlet of new compressor.

Old compressor sold and picked up within 24 hrs of listing.

1697148796135.png

Some weird marketting. It used to be King Canada, now King Industrial with some resemblance of USA vibes on the label.

Marketted as a 20 gallon compressor, but it's 20 Imperial Gallons - it's 24 US gallons, confirmed by exterior tank measurements of about 32.5" long and ~15" diameter.
Did the silly bits of hose help? On mine it did but perhaps that's just mine. My feeling is it drops the overall level a bit and makes the sound less harsh.
 
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petee_c

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Did the silly bits of hose help? On mine it did but perhaps that's just mine. My feeling is it drops the overall level a bit and makes the sound less harsh.
Not sure.

I feel that this one is a little louder than the old one it replaced... I'll run some tests. The hose I had laying around was 3/4"ID. I think 5/8"ID might fit better...

Could be some rattles in the wheel assembly. I may put a couple wraps of electrical tape on the bolt axles and take some play out of that.
 

Citation

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If you have it perhaps make a washer out of foam or cloth to do the same thing for the wheels or just some tape between the top of the wheel and tank. I would want to put the tape on the axle part of the bolt because it will turn into a mess if you roll the thing around. My CAT compressor has a similar issue.

The house ID is an interesting point. I'm not sure what size mine is but probably 1/2” since the house has to slightly stretch to fit. I'm sure I can invent theories why diameter matters but honestly I would just be guessing. I'm not really sure why it works at all but I does with both my CAT compressor (with a 3" tube that's maybe 1/4" od) and my later compressor where I'm using about 1.5" of perhaps 1/2” id.
 
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petee_c

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i'm not rolling the thing around very much. It usually just sits as in the picture. I also kinda remember seeing bearings in the wheels, so the wheel shouldnt really turn on the axle.

I hope to have some time to play with it this weekend. Gonna break out the air impact to do the winter tire swap in a few weeks and see how it goes.
 

Bmw4life

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How's the compressor so far petee?

I'm considering the same compressor

Was also considering a princess auto one

I had Makita Mac5200, but the tank at 5 gallons was too small, and something happened to it where it wouldn't turn off, even when it reached desired PSI.

I'm attracted to this horizontal air compressor because it's small and I'll put it up on the shelves by the ceiling.
 

Bmw4life

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I guess my space between the shelf and the ceiling is only 20inches. So maybe something like this will fit, but I'm not sure if it's ok to be operated horizontally?

 
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