Car Detailing - A "How To" write up/walk through WITH PICS

[HiccaBurp]

Absolutely not. Out of the question. The car needs to be washed by hand. Pressure washing isn't an acceptable substitute. You can do the bulk cleaning at the car wash, but you have to hand wash the car again before claying.

I kinda figured it's not the best. I just thought since I'll be claying and spraying as I go, it wouldn't be a big deal. In reality, hand washing in my driveway is not a big deal anyway. Just gotta do it on a warm enough day... it's starting to get cold here in N. IL

Thanks for the pics. Looks great. Is that Frog tape? I've got a few rolls of blue painters tape I'd use first?

 

[HiccaBurp]

Couple other question..

1. what about pinstripes? I imagine those gat taped off as well? Both kinds.. painted and sticker?

2. I've seen a couple of tape off jobs. Seems like some tape sharp edges and creases? If I'm using a light cutting compound like a swirl remover.. would that be necessary? I think the guys who were using rotary with harsh cutting abrasives taped off edges and creases?

 

[udunnome]

I even advise my customers against claying outside if it's windy. Particles floating around in the air can be abrasive enough to scuff up the surface with wiping. We've collected particulate dust from test panels left outside to study this. The leaf dust on some trees are extremely abrasive.

This will take you a few steps backwards. I've had too many people have problems with "claying" when the problem is really with washing. This will be particularly noticable on a black car.

 

[udunnome]

Thanks for the pics. Looks great. Is that Frog tape? I've got a few rolls of blue painters tape I'd use first?

It's automotive masking tape, by 3M. It's available at most auto parts stores, and I think even Wal-mart in the auto department.

 

[Lawson4450]

You say to start with a rotary, like the above machines, and you can push as hard as you want and it will just stop.
I don't know about the others, but the Porter Cable I have, 7428, will not just stop. That thing has a ton of power, when I first got it I was doing a Motorhome, the kind with the wavy sides, I burned right through the fiberglass holding it over my head trying to be in a hurry and not get a ladder.

Don't know about the others but with mine, you do need to be careful!

Mm

The portal cable i believe is the 7424 xp it is specific random orbital POLISHER, not a combo unit nor a sander it is specific. It is very difficult to burn the paint with it. I have seen children use this polisher without issue so im sure adults can lol. The flex 3401 is a random orbit WITH forced rotation you are relatively safe if you know what you are doing but can burn the paint if not careful.

 

[burger]

Hey Wills,

Thanks for posting this. When you're done detailing, do you throw your towels and pads in the same washing machine and dryer that you use for your clothes? Do you use regular laundry detergent?


Thanks,
Ed

 

[ZRX61]

Ill start with the MF towels first.

First way to help keep them in good shape is to have certain ones you only use for drying, others you only use for polish and wax removal, a 3rd set preferably for just windows, and then any that are in dirty shape but not horrible can get used on rims and tired.

Sams Club sell (or at least used to) several different colors of MF, plus the yellow ones from Costco. I think Sams had them in orange, green, blue & another color?

 

[ZRX61]

Ok, I went & had a look...
3 different shades of yellow, 2 blues, green & orange...the white ones are terry towel 50 packs from Costco

Some pads..

Applicators & used MF's....

PorterCable & variable speed Dewalt (with a shrinking disc on it)

Stuff...

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

LOL.. yeah, I'm known for going all in My other option is the wifes gray metallic '04 Mazda MPV minivan. Two issues.. first, it's bigger and more challenging with all the spoilers, roof strips, etc.. Second, if I mess up her van.. the consequences would be far greater then any damage I can do to my own vehicle!! LOL I also have a white '03 Chevy Express 3500 extended work van. I'm thinking about a week to cover all that real estate would do??


Yes, it's short and I'll detail spray it as I go. I might wash it at home, but just in case. With the daylight hours getting shorter and shorter, getting home and washing might not be possible. While detailing in my well lit and heated garage is


Thank for the quick response! That helps out


Again, thanks for the great info and the time you spent to help out a stranger!!


Machine: I have not purchased yet. Looking at the PC 7424xp or PC 7436sp or the Griots. Still trying to figure out which one is the correct PC.. I guess one is hook and loop, the other is not? Which one would you recommend?

Products:
I purchased Mothers clay bar kit(clay bar and detail spray).
I also have some Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow wax 26 laying around from a long time ago. Still looks and smells good?
Before I read up on the subject, I purchased some Turtle Wax "Carnauba Cleaner Wax" paste wax and some "super hard shell" liquid wax. Should I toss this stuff and buy recommended products, or is there a way to use it and purchase the better quality stuff as time goes by?
I've also got some car wash liquid, wheel cleaners, window cleaners, tire shine, etc..

Two More Questions:
1. If I purchase and apply a paint sealer, how long do I have to wait to apply a wax afterwards?
2. I read somewhere that you can use a chrome polish on your windshield?

Again, I thank you for all the helpful info you have posted and the quick response! Great job!

Sorry for the late reply, been a busy couple of days!

Well to do a full polish out on a work van might take a while, but then again, you have LOTS of flat panels which are so much nicer to work with than a bunch of curves! So the van shouldn't be too bad, but then again ive waxed a few of these:

Some sealants suggest waiting 12 hours before topping with wax...if the bottle DOESN'T say how long then just try some things, if you try it and it doesn't go on right (do test spot first) then just wait a little longer..and your #26 should still be ok as long as it hasn't separated (you could tell by looking at it) you're good to go.

Never used chrome polish on a windshield, but have hear of using paint compound/polish on it to remove water spots etc.

For the turtle wax cleaner wax and wax.....its up to you. I kept some of my old turtle wax stuff around, but 2 years later realized im never gonna use it and tossed it lol.

The other stuff though (tire cleaner, windshield cleaner etc) should be good to use...just again, do a test spot and make sure the wheel cleaner doesn't stain...if you've used it before with no problems then its good to use. I usually just use soap and water unless they are REALLY dusted up with brake dust. The tire shine should be ok...if you have the aerosol foam kind it works good if you have plastic wheel well coverings.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Perhaps I missed it, but in reading through this thread I see no mention of Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. I've been using it for 7-8 years on all my vehicles, even the 1968 Mustang. And on my fiberglas boat. I have yet to see a product that is so easy to work with (applying and buffing off), last so long (still beads up after a long winter in NE Ohio), and gives that wet look shine.

Any other Collinite 845 fans here?

Heard good things about it, never got a chance to try it...nice price on it though

What if you don't live in AZ and your car is rusting through the paint?

Find a painter lmao. Either that or get some touch up paint if the spots are small

You say to start with a rotary, like the above machines, and you can push as hard as you want and it will just stop.
I don't know about the others, but the Porter Cable I have, 7428, will not just stop. That thing has a ton of power, when I first got it I was doing a Motorhome, the kind with the wavy sides, I burned right through the fiberglass holding it over my head trying to be in a hurry and not get a ladder.

Don't know about the others but with mine, you do need to be careful!

Mm

I think what he said was a miscommunication. I think he was meaning start with a D.A...because rotaries will burn the paint...probably just a flip flop of words (hopefully, because NO rotary will stop lol.)

Absolutely not. Out of the question. The car needs to be washed by hand. Pressure washing isn't an acceptable substitute. You can do the bulk cleaning at the car wash, but you have to hand wash the car again before claying.

I was under the assumption he had no other choice but to do a full wash at the local car wash. Thats why i suggested spray detailer wipe down once he got home. Of course washing at home is BEST, but if you have no other choice wash it else where....and i was thinking of the self serve car washes where you have the options of soaps etc to use...i should have been more clear that JUST pressure washing would not be good enough...pressure wash, hand wash with soap, pressure wash/rinse is what i was thinking...

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Couple other question..

1. what about pinstripes? I imagine those gat taped off as well? Both kinds.. painted and sticker?

2. I've seen a couple of tape off jobs. Seems like some tape sharp edges and creases? If I'm using a light cutting compound like a swirl remover.. would that be necessary? I think the guys who were using rotary with harsh cutting abrasives taped off edges and creases?

Depends on the strips. If they are vinyl then yes taping around them is best. If you don't want to then you can always do the areas around them by hand (more work but doable) and make yourself a 'cutline' by hand so to speak of a couple inches...

You want to tape off sharp edges and body panel lines when using a rotary for sure. Paint is thinner there so thats why. If using a DA (dual action) polisher then you should be ok without taping those off. So if you're using a DA with a light swirl remover then no tape is needed on body lines

I even advise my customers against claying outside if it's windy. Particles floating around in the air can be abrasive enough to scuff up the surface with wiping. We've collected particulate dust from test panels left outside to study this. The leaf dust on some trees are extremely abrasive.

This will take you a few steps backwards. I've had too many people have problems with "claying" when the problem is really with washing. This will be particularly noticable on a black car.

You've got that right my friend! I think the type of tree i've got at home are called 'bottle trees'...they 'spit' sap and the dust is a pain to deal with...so of course the 'clean the better'. If you're working in a not so perfect environment' id again suggest spraying and wiping a panel down FIRST before claying.

Hey Wills,

Thanks for posting this. When you're done detailing, do you throw your towels and pads in the same washing machine and dryer that you use for your clothes? Do you use regular laundry detergent?


Thanks,
Ed

I use the same MACHINE but i wash them in a separate load. I clean all my pads by hand, i know some say machine washable, but i dont want to risk the backing separating from the pad (ive had it happen, not from washing but from the pad getting too hot).

I think i listed earlier but Mf's need to be washed by themselves. They have special Mf laundry soap available, i use a liquid scentless soap and have had no problems. Some people add a cup of vinegar in the rinse cycle...ive never done this but heard it helps keep them nice and fluffy

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Ok, I went & had a look...
3 different shades of yellow, 2 blues, green & orange...the white ones are terry towel 50 packs from Costco

Some pads..

Applicators & used MF's....

PorterCable & variable speed Dewalt (with a shrinking disc on it)

Stuff...

Nice collection man. Have any pics of your garage that you do work in (i have dreams of not ALWAYS being mobile lol).

I like the Sams club Mfs...mine seem to flatten out after a while though (mostly due to washing im thinking)...what are your experiences with them?

My Sams only has yellow, blue and green MFs and then then terry's you were talking about. $10 for a 25 pack if i remember correctly.

Whats the shrinking disc you were talking about on your DeWalt? Never heard of that

 

[RuDawg68SS]

Great info! Thanks for taking the time. I luv micro fibers also. Although I don't use them my cutom choppers chrome. Even thought they are soft, they can put tiny scratches in the surface of the chrome. When you rub against your skin you can feel the tiny hooks at the end of each fiber, like velcro everything sticks to it. Won't matter for most applications cuz you have to look really close. But on the Chopper the chrome is in great shape and I don't want to keep it looking that way for as long as possible.

 

[Matt M PA]

"Good" microfibres are softer than cheap microfibres. If you buy them by the sack at Costco, they're not the best. I have some exceptionally nice mf towels that are noticeably softer than the lesser ones. If you have delicate paint or chrome, it is possible to put fine cobweb type scratches with them on our surface.

Some guys test mf towels by using a CD and dry buffing the working side of the disc. (the side without the writing) If it doesn't scratch the disc, its reasonable to assume it won't scratch paint.

 

[vw_tdi]

ok, i'm going to throw in my GJ noob $.02...

NOTE: I have no affiliation with any retailers. I buy my stuff primarily at autogeek.net, but nearly everything I'm going to mention is available at any online detail product provider. www.autopia.org/ is a great detail forum / site, btw. The forum is much better / more active than autogeek's.

First, good write-up. I want to respond from the perspective of somebody that reads the detailing information and thinks, "No freaking way do I have the time for/want to do that." After researching detailing procedures, that's what I concluded. Leave it to the pros.

So, if you're in the same boat, here's some things you can do to keep your car looking great with much less effort..

(1) find a quality detailer near you. All detailers are *not* made equal. If you're getting a smoking deal on the job and they have it back to you in 3hrs, it's a crappy detail. I pay $200 to a guy that does it out of his garage and has the car for like 7hrs+. I found him on www.autopia.org/. Once you find your detailer, get it detailed at least 1x/year. If you can afford it, do it every 6 months. For me, I get the paint on the dark colored car done every 6 months and the whole thing done yearly. The silver car gets only an annual detail.

(2) never, ever take your car through a drive-through car wash. You will marr the finish. You can, theoretically, go through a "touchless" wash to get major dirt off, but you'll still need to follow up with a proper hand wash.

(3) Hand wash using the 2-bucket method mentioned. You can use 5gal buckets from HD with grit guards like this: http://www.autogeek.net/gg1010.html or http://www.autogeek.net/professional-grit-guard.html.

For wash mitts, you can buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RXKR6M/?tag=atomicindus08-20

also, another thing people use is grout sponges from HD. Cheap and hold a lot of water. I like the mitt above. When finished, just throw it in the laundry with all the rest of the MF.

Use the washing methods described by the OP. Rinse really well, wash from top down, etc. Also, make sure and open all the doors and wipe down / dry the door jambs, under hood, trunk, etc.

NOTE: Optimum No rinse is an amazing product. Really great for garage washes in the winter. learn the main method first, then move on to ONR.

(4) drying: a leaf blower followed by a MF works best. Compressed air can have oil and/ or rust in the air stream from the tank, so don't use that.

Good MF towels: http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-waffle-weave.html

A whole bunch of them: http://www.autogeek.net/mictow.html

these are a good value, but small in size: http://www.autogeek.net/coblallpumit2.html . I prefer the one above.

(5) after about every other wash (or every wash, doesn't matter), use this liquid spray wax: http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-aquawax--951.html

takes about 5-10min to apply. Great stuff. Leave the sealers and paste waxes to your detailer.

(6) for spot cleaning (e.g. bird poo - which will eat into your clear coat, btw), use "Quick Detailer." Meguiars makes an OTC one that is fine. I prefer this:

http://www.autogeek.net/finish-kare-425-detailer.html

ONR diluted in a bottle also works great. Do a google for "quick detailer" and you'll find all sorts of stuff

(7) for windows: Stoner's Invisible Glass. Available at HD or at most online retailers.

(8) for interior & exterior plastics: http://www.autogeek.net/16oz.html . This stuff is amazing. Follow the directions. Available at NAPA as well. Some people prefer it for only interior and use an exterior speciality product.

(9) Wheels. Clean as OP suggests. IMO, best tire dressing (matte finish): http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-tire---rubber-mat-dressing.html . There are a million other products out there as well.

(10) If you're feeling up to it, you can "spot" clay bar the leading edges of the car (front of hood and roof, front fenders) in between details. Meguiar's clay OTC is fine.

That should about cover it. Using these methods, I spend as little as 30min just washing and drying and up to max of 2hrs doing everything. I leave all the polishing and specialty stuff to the pro.

If folks feel this should be a separate thread, let me know. I think it is best here, but I'm new to GJ...

matt

 

[vw_tdi]

Excellent write-up. Now if I can only find the time to do all that. Goodness knows my cars need it.

One question - How about using compressed air to dry the car? I've never done it but always thought it would be a great way of removing the water and would eliminate the chance of scratching the surface with the dry cloth.

Thanks again.

CB

the tank on the compressor can have rust particles in it. Not advised.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Great info! Thanks for taking the time. I luv micro fibers also. Although I don't use them my cutom choppers chrome. Even thought they are soft, they can put tiny scratches in the surface of the chrome. When you rub against your skin you can feel the tiny hooks at the end of each fiber, like velcro everything sticks to it. Won't matter for most applications cuz you have to look really close. But on the Chopper the chrome is in great shape and I don't want to keep it looking that way for as long as possible.

Sweet chopper man...ive never had an issue with GOOD mf's and chrome, but if you have something that works well for you, keep doing it...as matt said below, there is a difference. Some of my MF's cost $5+ EACH...bigger ones cost even more, but they are soooo soft and plush i don't think you could scratch something with them if you TRIED to (as long as they are clean)

"Good" microfibres are softer than cheap microfibres. If you buy them by the sack at Costco, they're not the best. I have some exceptionally nice mf towels that are noticeably softer than the lesser ones. If you have delicate paint or chrome, it is possible to put fine cobweb type scratches with them on our surface.

Some guys test mf towels by using a CD and dry buffing the working side of the disc. (the side without the writing) If it doesn't scratch the disc, its reasonable to assume it won't scratch paint.

Yup yup, thanks for bringing up the CD test....good point

ok, i'm going to throw in my GJ noob $.02...

NOTE: I have no affiliation with any retailers. I buy my stuff primarily at autogeek.net, but nearly everything I'm going to mention is available at any online detail product provider. www.autopia.org/ is a great detail forum / site, btw. The forum is much better / more active than autogeek's.

First, good write-up. I want to respond from the perspective of somebody that reads the detailing information and thinks, "No freaking way do I have the time for/want to do that." After researching detailing procedures, that's what I concluded. Leave it to the pros.

So, if you're in the same boat, here's some things you can do to keep your car looking great with much less effort..

(1) find a quality detailer near you. All detailers are *not* made equal. If you're getting a smoking deal on the job and they have it back to you in 3hrs, it's a crappy detail. I pay $200 to a guy that does it out of his garage and has the car for like 7hrs+. I found him on www.autopia.org/. Once you find your detailer, get it detailed at least 1x/year. If you can afford it, do it every 6 months. For me, I get the paint on the dark colored car done every 6 months and the whole thing done yearly. The silver car gets only an annual detail.

(2) never, ever take your car through a drive-through car wash. You will marr the finish. You can, theoretically, go through a "touchless" wash to get major dirt off, but you'll still need to follow up with a proper hand wash.

(3) Hand wash using the 2-bucket method mentioned. You can use 5gal buckets from HD with grit guards like this: http://www.autogeek.net/gg1010.html or http://www.autogeek.net/professional-grit-guard.html.

For wash mitts, you can buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RXKR6M/?tag=atomicindus08-20

also, another thing people use is grout sponges from HD. Cheap and hold a lot of water. I like the mitt above. When finished, just throw it in the laundry with all the rest of the MF.

Use the washing methods described by the OP. Rinse really well, wash from top down, etc. Also, make sure and open all the doors and wipe down / dry the door jambs, under hood, trunk, etc.

NOTE: Optimum No rinse is an amazing product. Really great for garage washes in the winter. learn the main method first, then move on to ONR.

(4) drying: a leaf blower followed by a MF works best. Compressed air can have oil and/ or rust in the air stream from the tank, so don't use that.

Good MF towels: http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-waffle-weave.html

A whole bunch of them: http://www.autogeek.net/mictow.html

these are a good value, but small in size: http://www.autogeek.net/coblallpumit2.html . I prefer the one above.

(5) after about every other wash (or every wash, doesn't matter), use this liquid spray wax: http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-aquawax--951.html

takes about 5-10min to apply. Great stuff. Leave the sealers and paste waxes to your detailer.

(6) for spot cleaning (e.g. bird poo - which will eat into your clear coat, btw), use "Quick Detailer." Meguiars makes an OTC one that is fine. I prefer this:

http://www.autogeek.net/finish-kare-425-detailer.html

ONR diluted in a bottle also works great. Do a google for "quick detailer" and you'll find all sorts of stuff

(7) for windows: Stoner's Invisible Glass. Available at HD or at most online retailers.

(8) for interior & exterior plastics: http://www.autogeek.net/16oz.html . This stuff is amazing. Follow the directions. Available at NAPA as well. Some people prefer it for only interior and use an exterior speciality product.

(9) Wheels. Clean as OP suggests. IMO, best tire dressing (matte finish): http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-tire---rubber-mat-dressing.html . There are a million other products out there as well.

(10) If you're feeling up to it, you can "spot" clay bar the leading edges of the car (front of hood and roof, front fenders) in between details. Meguiar's clay OTC is fine.

That should about cover it. Using these methods, I spend as little as 30min just washing and drying and up to max of 2hrs doing everything. I leave all the polishing and specialty stuff to the pro.

If folks feel this should be a separate thread, let me know. I think it is best here, but I'm new to GJ...

matt

More good info and links. I like AG's forum, its always been very active in my experience at least. I do agree having your car done 1 to 2 x's a year is a wise choice.

For my customers i do offer a maintenance wash either every 2 weeks or monthly (more often if they need it). Its a good deal because after 5 washes i give them a $20 discount on a wash/wax and basic interior...so that way year round the paint will have a coat of sealant on it and the interior will be stay in good shape as well. Plus they will be getting QUALITY washes every time and not jacking up the paint in between our visits. One lady we've been doing for just over a year now, monthly wash, not even every 2 weeks and her paint on her Lexus is still silky smooth...i LOVE coming behind our own work, you really can tell when a car is taken care of consistently....her husband finally jumped on the band wagon and we're doing his car every month now as well lol

 

[torqueman2002]

Wow! Lots and lots of goood information. Thanks to Ws Ws and Ws; and all the other posters.

I've used the PC da and like it a lot; perfect for a non-pro. Bought it from Autogeek with their great selection of pads.

People still comment on the finish, when I clean up the 2002 Grand Prix with +155K miles and 11 Michigan winters.

I've not used the clay bar. However, I'm wondering when capturing the surface contaminates and debris in the clay, what keeps that dirt from damaging the paint surface as it's pulled across the rest of the area you are working?

 

[Matt M PA]

torqueman2002...I wish I could give you some brilliant scientific answer...(perhaps someone can)...but I can only say it works and works very well.

I assume that the dirt is pushed far enough into the surface of the clay that it doesn't touch once captured.

 

[RuDawg68SS]

Thx Will and TDI! I guess is will stop buying the MFs in bulk at Sams. Also a good product for quick detailing the chopper and getting the bugs/bird poop off is Bugslide http://www.bugslide.com . Leaves a nice shine and slick surface too. Not cheap though.

 

[Matt M PA]

Rudawg....there are uses for "lesser" mf towels. Interior work, but not instrument lenses or nav displays. Under hood, etc.

I have found some of the plush mfs at Target are very good if you'd prefer not to buy mail order.

You really learn about things like this when your daily car is black...and I have a 96 Viper RT that's black, and they have soft paint.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

torqueman2002...I wish I could give you some brilliant scientific answer...(perhaps someone can)...but I can only say it works and works very well.

I assume that the dirt is pushed far enough into the surface of the clay that it doesn't touch once captured.

You called it...good answer...but of course still have to re-knead the clay to make sure the surface you're using stays as clean as possible

 

[burger]

Hello Wills,

Thanks for your response to my question about washing MF towels.

I have another question for you if you wouldn't mind. My daily driver has some damage to the hood. I am not sure exactly what happened, but there's a little rusty chip, and the paint adjacent to it has been thoroughly scratched. Maybe someone thought they could scrub off the rust? Do you have any recommendations for a cheap fix that'll make it look better? It's just a beater car, so a repaint is out of the question!



Thanks,
Ed

 

[Graymills - Craig]

Brilliant!

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Hello Wills,

Thanks for your response to my question about washing MF towels.

I have another question for you if you wouldn't mind. My daily driver has some damage to the hood. I am not sure exactly what happened, but there's a little rusty chip, and the paint adjacent to it has been thoroughly scratched. Maybe someone thought they could scrub off the rust? Do you have any recommendations for a cheap fix that'll make it look better? It's just a beater car, so a repaint is out of the question!



Thanks,
Ed

Ouch! Yeah it looks like someone took a Scotch Brite pad to it...NOT the smartest thing. For the scuffed up part after washing it and getting it clean, id say try a compound. If you have a polisher use it with the compound, something like Meguiars Ultimate Compound and then followed up by Meguiars Swirl X 2.0 (both are available at a local wally world or auto part store, its over the counter stuff but works well). If you DONT have a polisher then use a foam pad by hand and really WORK it...don't be afraid to put some pressure behind the pad. It's not EASY by hand, but very possible. Then follow up with Swirl X 2.0 by hand and lastly apply a wax.

For your rusted part, the only thing you can really do is some touch up paint that i know of. Just make sure you use some sort of product to remove the rust first or else the paint won't bond well. You can get some at your dealer (though i HATE dealerships) or you can order something called Dr. Color Chip from autogeek.net. Its $60 but most people ive seen post after using it have given positive feedback...its not PERFECT, but will get rid of the eye sore. You'll want the touch up paint to cure for 10 days minimum before applying a wax over it (some may suggest up to 30 days but usually thats only for a repaint).

 

[haugy]

Well, thanks to this thread not only did I tackle my car, but thanks to a fellow GJ member I also got some badass stuff from Adam's polishes.

I got a new Porter Cable polisher, clay bar, pads, MF towels, and a slew of swirl remover, polishes, sealants, and detailers.

So I decided to try this new stuff on my beater daily driver, which is not actually a beater but a very well kept and in great shape 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. But this thing has shown it's age.

Just using the clay bar alone was beyond a miracle!!!! It felt like I had just waxed the Jeep, even though all I did was clay bar it. HOLY ****!! And yeah that section of clay bar was toast. But then I did the polishing process and WOW! The pictures didn't come out great because it was late and I was about half a bottle of crown royal. Oops.

But man, my dark green Jeep has never looked better. And I mean that. The paint is deep, dark, shiny, and smooth as soft warm silk.

I can't wait to do the rest of the toys. Thanks for all those who chimed in, the posts got me motivated, and happy.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Well, thanks to this thread not only did I tackle my car, but thanks to a fellow GJ member I also got some badass stuff from Adam's polishes.

I got a new Porter Cable polisher, clay bar, pads, MF towels, and a slew of swirl remover, polishes, sealants, and detailers.

So I decided to try this new stuff on my beater daily driver, which is not actually a beater but a very well kept and in great shape 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. But this thing has shown it's age.

Just using the clay bar alone was beyond a miracle!!!! It felt like I had just waxed the Jeep, even though all I did was clay bar it. HOLY ****!! And yeah that section of clay bar was toast. But then I did the polishing process and WOW! The pictures didn't come out great because it was late and I was about half a bottle of crown royal. Oops.

But man, my dark green Jeep has never looked better. And I mean that. The paint is deep, dark, shiny, and smooth as soft warm silk.

I can't wait to do the rest of the toys. Thanks for all those who chimed in, the posts got me motivated, and happy.

Hey man thats absolutely awesome that you knuckled up and went for it. Maybe you can get a few after pictures once you get it out in the full sun on another day . Keep it waxed every few months and wash it properly and that shine will last you a good long time

 

[floridaguy]

I see a lot of examples on dark color paints. What is the best method or products to use on white paint to make it pop?

I got a new-to me vehicle a few months ago. The paint is 8 years old was not well taken care of, it is parked outside in the elements, does get washed often but not on a regular basis. Since I got I washed a few times to get most of the crude off. I did clay the paint once, much improvement. I also applied Ultimate compound, using an orange pad on a PC-7424xp. I then applied some meguiars #7 and finished off with tech wax 2.0. In the end it looks better but I want more pop. What should I use to make the white really stand out?

 

[Matt M PA]

Whites and silvers are tough. They're too light to show much reflection. Perhaps that what you mean?

I'm not a big fan on NXT, but to each their own. I also am not sure that the compounding and all Is going to give you what you are after. As you see, the clay cleans nicely and reveals the color and clarity. Using a compound can get rid of defects, etc providing it is buffed as long as needed. Not buffing some compounds completely can leave fins swirls and scratches as the product did not break down all the way in the process.

I'd expect....with all due respect....that perhaps you are expecting a bit more than white can deliver. You could use a glaze, but unless it's a showcar they're so short lived that I'd not recommend that as it will wash away quickly.

 

[burger]

Ouch! Yeah it looks like someone took a Scotch Brite pad to it...NOT the smartest thing. For the scuffed up part after washing it and getting it clean, id say try a compound. If you have a polisher use it with the compound, something like Meguiars Ultimate Compound and then followed up by Meguiars Swirl X 2.0 (both are available at a local wally world or auto part store, its over the counter stuff but works well). If you DONT have a polisher then use a foam pad by hand and really WORK it...don't be afraid to put some pressure behind the pad. It's not EASY by hand, but very possible. Then follow up with Swirl X 2.0 by hand and lastly apply a wax.

For your rusted part, the only thing you can really do is some touch up paint that i know of. Just make sure you use some sort of product to remove the rust first or else the paint won't bond well. You can get some at your dealer (though i HATE dealerships) or you can order something called Dr. Color Chip from autogeek.net. Its $60 but most people ive seen post after using it have given positive feedback...its not PERFECT, but will get rid of the eye sore. You'll want the touch up paint to cure for 10 days minimum before applying a wax over it (some may suggest up to 30 days but usually thats only for a repaint).

Wow! Thanks for the detailed response!


Ed

 

[RuDawg68SS]

Rudawg....there are uses for "lesser" mf towels. Interior work, but not instrument lenses or nav displays. Under hood, etc.

I have found some of the plush mfs at Target are very good if you'd prefer not to buy mail order.

You really learn about things like this when your daily car is black...and I have a 96 Viper RT that's black, and they have soft paint.

Thanks Matt! Luv the Viper. I recently bought a black Comaro and haven't had a chance to wash it yet. I will make sure I have the soft MFs.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

I see a lot of examples on dark color paints. What is the best method or products to use on white paint to make it pop?

I got a new-to me vehicle a few months ago. The paint is 8 years old was not well taken care of, it is parked outside in the elements, does get washed often but not on a regular basis. Since I got I washed a few times to get most of the crude off. I did clay the paint once, much improvement. I also applied Ultimate compound, using an orange pad on a PC-7424xp. I then applied some meguiars #7 and finished off with tech wax 2.0. In the end it looks better but I want more pop. What should I use to make the white really stand out?

As Matt said, it is hard to get a deeper reflection with a white or light colored paint...its just the nature of the beast. you can hide a LOT more than you can with a dark colored car (which is why so many people like them lol) but it is hard to get it to look as nice as a darker colored car that is done correctly.

Id suggest following up your UC pass with a Swirl X 2.0 pass...it will give added clarity and gloss to the paint. When looking for SHINE and GLOSS, you can't beat a carnauba or 'natural' wax...things like 2.0 are sealants...ive had good luck with it but there are other options. You could even LAYER something on it. If you want to go deep in your pockets there are more expensive waxes ($100 or more) that are suppose to be all that. The only really expensive wax ive used is Pinnacle Carnauba Paste Wax, its about $100, but i used it on black so i can't attest to how it would work on white.
If you have real deep pockets you can go with Swissvax but you better be making 6 figures a year lol.

Here is a link of some choices http://www.autogeek.net/carnauba-wax.html

Dodo juice also has a good rep...but i can tell you this, the better your PREP (claying REALLY well...compounding and polishing) the MORE your wax will do for you..and if you put 2 or 3 layers onto the paint it'll just get that much better.

 

[haugy]

Well I did another ride this weekend. I spent some serious time on the wife's car today. It's a 2002 and very light swirl marks from towels and carwashes.

I really wanted this to come out perfect as believe it or not this is the only C-class car in this color. This is an E-class color that the original owner had specially painted on to it. So seeing as it's more rare than normal, I really wanted to polish it up right.

Did all the right steps, clay bar, light swirl remover. then polished, and then sealant wax. All products by Adams. And they worked great.

The paint is immaculate now, and oooooooh so smooth.

Next step will be the white F-150. That one should be a true challenge since it hasn't been properly waxed in a long time, and it's white.

Here's the car.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Well I did another ride this weekend. I spent some serious time on the wife's car today. It's a 2002 and very light swirl marks from towels and carwashes.

I really wanted this to come out perfect as believe it or not this is the only C-class car in this color. This is an E-class color that the original owner had specially painted on to it. So seeing as it's more rare than normal, I really wanted to polish it up right.

Did all the right steps, clay bar, light swirl remover. then polished, and then sealant wax. All products by Adams. And they worked great.

The paint is immaculate now, and oooooooh so smooth.

Next step will be the white F-150. That one should be a true challenge since it hasn't been properly waxed in a long time, and it's white.

Here's the car.

 

[89MustangGX]

Any tips for door jambs? I do my best to keep them clean now. I wash them with the car and have waxed as much as I can get to. What do I do around the hinges and areas where dirt/dust accumulates and is hard to get at with a sponge? I don't have a fancy steam sprayer to blast stuff out, which is what I think a pro would use.

Adam

 

[haugy]

I make a point of just wiping the exterior of the hinges down. Don't forget they are moving parts and need to stay lubricated otherwise the door will get stiff, heavy, or worse, squeak. I know that grease looks bad in there, but leave it.

I use a small soft cloth for any other areas, like the locks and tabs. And if for some reason I'm not able to get every spec of dust out of the locking mechanism, oh well. First person to say something about it is walking home.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Any tips for door jambs? I do my best to keep them clean now. I wash them with the car and have waxed as much as I can get to. What do I do around the hinges and areas where dirt/dust accumulates and is hard to get at with a sponge? I don't have a fancy steam sprayer to blast stuff out, which is what I think a pro would use.

Adam

Hey Adam,

As noted below, grease is your friend in some cases so...dont wan't to get all that out, same thing when cleaning interiors, don't wipe out all the grease from the tracks your seats slide on... but as for the DIRT i know you're talking about, that just looks a mess...if you can't reach it to clean it with a cloth there are a couple little things you can do to get most of it.

First thing, if you have a all purpose cleaner, diluted it down to 4:1 or even 10:1 (depending on the type...i'd suggest 10:1 first and if it aint cuttin it, make it stronger!)...spray it pretty liberally on the dirty area and then get an old paint brush, preferably one that is pretty thin so it can fit in there and you can use it to agitate the dirt. They do also sell 'detailing brushes' that you may find helpful, some are rather small and fit great into those areas...but a cheap 77c disposable brush from Lowes is perfect. I use them on engine details. After you agitate the dirt, just use your hose on a very light setting (i like the 'mist' setting if i'm trying to be careful to not get certain things wet, like an ALTERNATOR when im doing an engine detail lol) to rinse the area clean. Make sure its really rinsed well because if not it could stain your rubber (wire coverings) or paint in that area.

The next little trick would be, if you have a leaf blower, or an air compressor, use it to blow most of the water out of there till its almost dry...then get a drying towel (preferably microfiber, just makes things easier and look nicer) and get the last few little drips as best you can.

I make a point of just wiping the exterior of the hinges down. Don't forget they are moving parts and need to stay lubricated otherwise the door will get stiff, heavy, or worse, squeak. I know that grease looks bad in there, but leave it.

I use a small soft cloth for any other areas, like the locks and tabs. And if for some reason I'm not able to get every spec of dust out of the locking mechanism, oh well. First person to say something about it is walking home.

Oh come on dont make em walk home, drive them home and then make them clean that unsightly dirt that obviously bothers them to no end

 

[HiccaBurp]

Hey guys.. love reading the info on here. I'm about to purchase a PC kit. I've called and talked to AutoGeek & Adams. Here is what each recommends. The Adams is a bit more expensive, but does have more stuff. Which one would you choose?

http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-porter-cable-swirl-remover.html

or

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-568-adams-complete-porter-cable-7424xp-polisher-kit.aspx

Thanks for the help guys..

 

[89MustangGX]

Thanks for the tips guys!

Adam

 

[ckadams00]

This has been a GREAT thread - lots of new learning and I am trying to absorb what I can. Just like anything else, you learn about better tools for a job and it becomes SO MUCH EASIER to get a great result.

Question: what is best to use on the sun-faded black plastic trim? I have tried a lot of the cheaper "black/wet" products, and even tire shine, but none of these look good for more than a day. I am pretty certain I am not using the right products.

I am not the type of person who can recite the Meguiar products by number.

Any suggestions would be really appreciated - these are the areas that look the worst on my cars.