Caulking aggravation

[Kaizen]

Finally painting my carriage barn themed garage. It has a lot of details and I’m caulking when needed. Problem specifically are joints from corner board to wood clapboards. Caulked under them so they smooshed into a bed of it and on top. Now six months later the joints show cracking. What am I doing wrong? Looks like **** and concerned with water penetration. This is the caulking I used, joint i'm caulking (some a little larger), the cracking, and an idea of the detail in the garage








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[fasteddie]

If you put it on too thick it will shrink back as it dries. For big cracks, you should be using backer rod.

 

[DieselNut88]

DAP caulk is garbage. Use loctite PL caulk.

 

[strutaeng]

Yeah, that fast dry painter's caulk is no good, unless you are a production painter and "blowing and going" painting apartments that are going to be repainted in 6 months anyways.

The "Alex" stuff shrinks considerably over time. Use a better caulk. A sealant like PL mentioned is polyurethane, and much, much more difficult to apply. It also has something like a 7 day cure time, if you read the literature.

I would just use a better caulk. SW 950a is one that I've had good luck with. There are many better options out there. Dap Dynaflex 230 is pretty good too.

By the way, why was the trim not cut-in? Looks sloppy.

 

[strutaeng]

Actually, looking at the photos, it looks like adhesion issue...was the surface clean? Was it primed first?

Regardless, just redo the joint.

 

[scottydosnntkno]

Alex isn’t worth using outside. A good polyurethane like osi quad will last forever and not shrink and crack like that

 

[CarBikeGuy70]

Use polyurethane as others have suggested. Bonds very well and will not shrink-

 

[Kaizen]

Yeah, that fast dry painter's caulk is no good, unless you are a production painter and "blowing and going" painting apartments that are going to be repainted in 6 months anyways.



The "Alex" stuff shrinks considerably over time. Use a better caulk. A sealant like PL mentioned is polyurethane, and much, much more difficult to apply. It also has something like a 7 day cure time, if you read the literature.



I would just use a better caulk. SW 950a is one that I've had good luck with. There are many better options out there. Dap Dynaflex 230 is pretty good too.



By the way, why was the trim not cut-in? Looks sloppy.

Meaning cut in with paint? That’s what I was going to do yesterday till I saw these cracks


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[Kaizen]

Actually, looking at the photos, it looks like adhesion issue...was the surface clean? Was it primed first?



Regardless, just redo the joint.

Yes primed claps brand new. The corner board is pvc but cellular so nice and rough on sides


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[Kaizen]

If I had large gaps I wouldn’t be worrying. These are small so I want them to not crack. I will get better caulk. How do you smooth the bead with those polyurethane types? Aren’t they very sticky? Normally I just use water


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[strutaeng]

If I had large gaps I wouldn’t be worrying. These are small so I want them to not crack. I will get better caulk. How do you smooth the bead with those polyurethane types? Aren’t they very sticky? Normally I just use water


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Water won't work. Acetone or similar. Make sure to wear gloves, and make sure to read about curing time. I recently had checked OSI Quad and it stated 7 days.

 

[Kaizen]

Water won't work. Acetone or similar. Make sure to wear gloves, and make sure to read about curing time. I recently had checked OSI Quad and it stated 7 days.

Thanks will do


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[rayra]

Problem is the best caulking really isn't paintable. Use the latex for ease of use and painting and anything thicker than 1/8" is gonna shrink and peel. Every time.

 

[Blk88GT]

I used that caulk on the inside and can also confirm the other poster's comments, it's junk. Shrinks, cracks etc.

 

[rieferman]

Good thread. I had the same experience around the interior side of windows where we caulked and then painted. At some point I'm going to re-do it, and will refer to this thread.

Go figure.... My thinking was that a product sold everywhere that literally lists all the features/benefits I'm seeking would be a good choice.

 

[Kaizen]

Good thread. I had the same experience around the interior side of windows where we caulked and then painted. At some point I'm going to re-do it, and will refer to this thread.

Go figure.... My thinking was that a product sold everywhere that literally lists all the features/benefits I'm seeking would be a good choice.

Exactly. Not like I grabbed the elcheapo stuff. All vids I see painters doing used it. Figured it would be fine. Now trying to decide on least damaging method to remove. Guessing it will rip off primer as well. Nothing is easy in this build.


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[Terracar]

I recommend using Vulkem - it is similar to the OSI stuff and will not shrink/crack.

 

[GTO]

If you have to buy DAP,buy the Dynaflex 230

 

[Dumber than lumber]

That caulk you used is real **** IMO.
Caulk is a lot like tools.
Don't buy cheap tools. Don't buy cheap caulk.
They will cost you way more than you save.
The OSI Quadmax really impressed me.

 

[Dadillac]

https://www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com/animal/SS900.html
This is what we used when I was doing vinyl siding for a living. Never had a call back for recaulking. You would have to search but it comes in virtually any color you want. If you have a building supply near you, ABC is where we bought ours, they can hook you up.

Don

 

[johnnyradiant]

Put it on shy of level you need, leave it sit a week, then top up with a thinner bead of good caulk.

 

[2004.5cumminsman]

Is it rated for outdoors? I have trimmed three houses with DAP 30 minute, used for all base and cases not one issue? Don’t expect it to fill major gaps, and prep is key...

 

[nadogail]

Cheap Caulk and Cheap Paint, neither of them are worth your time and money.

 

[Kaizen]

Is it rated for outdoors? I have trimmed three houses with DAP 30 minute, used for all base and cases not one issue? Don’t expect it to fill major gaps, and prep is key...

Yea interior/exterior. 50 year **** warranty

 

[Buckaroo5]

https://www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com/animal/SS900.html
This is what we used when I was doing vinyl siding for a living. Never had a call back for recaulking. You would have to search but it comes in virtually any color you want. If you have a building supply near you, ABC is where we bought ours, they can hook you up.

Don

This looks good. I want to apply it to painted/primed cedar shingles, masonry and flashing. It says it skims over in 1 hour and can be painted at that point - any experience doing that?

Buckaroo

 

[bpjr]

Probably was put it on too thick for a single application. Most caulks give a max thickness on their instructions to control shrink and bead size varies depending on the product. Happens with many caulks whether cheap or expensive. Metal roofing guys usually know what the best caulks are.

 

[Kaizen]

Probably was put it on too thick for a single application. Most caulks give a max thickness on their instructions to control shrink and bead size varies depending on the product. Happens with many caulks whether cheap or expensive. Metal roofing guys usually know what the best caulks are.

Perhaps. I'll be more exact this round. Went and picked up some `OSI quad max to try out.

 

[rburke65]

Caulking can be a real chemical test some times.

 

[Bert_]

I hate caulk. The only thing guaranteed is that it will fail, the better stuff just takes longer. Use it only when absolutely necessary. Tight joints and flashing work better.

 

[Kaizen]

I hate caulk. The only thing guaranteed is that it will fail, the better stuff just takes longer. Use it only when absolutely necessary. Tight joints and flashing work better.

Yup. Definitely need on wood clapboards. Mostly just concerned with lower part as there is a big overhang


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[Dadillac]

This looks good. I want to apply it to painted/primed cedar shingles, masonry and flashing. It says it skims over in 1 hour and can be painted at that point - any experience doing that?

Buckaroo

The majority of my experience with the Solar Seal is on new vinyl siding and trim. We did not do any painting. I also have used it on my own personal homes. I always buy the color I want it to be so I never painted over it. Solar Seal comes in more colors than Crayola has. Well maybe not that many. So whatever color you want it to be just buy that color. ABC Supply keeps in stock all colors of the siding that they sell. So most of the basic colors (white, blue, gray, almond, clay, etc and clear) you can walk in and out with. Special colors like red and green and such are special order and take a day or two to get. I would imagine most Supply companies do the same.

Don

 

[Bert_]

Yup. Definitely need on wood clapboards. Mostly just concerned with lower part as there is a big overhang


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Mine hasn't needed caulk for 90-some years


A small amount of water will enter the joint. That's what the felt paper or house wrap is for. If you caulk you need to stay on top of it otherwise it ends up trapping water instead of keeping it out.

 

[tonyciambrone]

Alex plus is **** I will never use it again... causes me lots of aggravation with some trim projects.

Doesn't hold up on the interior and I imagine exterior is only worse.

 

[Kaizen]

Mine hasn't needed caulk for 90-some years





A small amount of water will enter the joint. That's what the felt paper or house wrap is for. If you caulk you need to stay on top of it otherwise it ends up trapping water instead of keeping it out.

I’ve always been told it’s needed.the water will find its way to the silll and over years create an invitation to rot and termites. Just too many places that could go wrong for my comfort. I’ve replaced enough sills to know I don’t want to worry about it


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[Miss the Pontiacs]

This is bizarre
Today I was caulking the truss ends in my garage. I got thinking as I was doing this project I should have checked for a thread on this subject for some additional expertise. I had chosen a Dap product that had some silicone in the mix. Don’t remember the exact name of the Dap caulking compound.
I can include a pic which has 4” of styrofoam and some expandable foam and then a gyproc plate with some drywall mud to fill in any voids and finally the caulking.
So then this evening I see this thread which would have given me some additional info.